nwcubsman

Nice quote. But, its a long game.

Seahawks!!!!!!

You notice the BJ parking sign on the highway going in? They really should be more explicit with their wording, if you know what I mean. I was there Tuesday and still can't believe some of the prices. Last year there was 3 Z's at BJ. I'm trying to remember, but at least one of them went for more that $20,000. This year, BTW, not one Z.

Dave, Please check your PM for my message as well.

It is just my opinion, and numerous opinions that have been relayed to me in the last year, to stick with the NGK plugs. You can use the extended electrode version, at least in my L24, for slightly better burn. Run a search on this site. There is more info on this topic than you'll care to read.

Vic, how did I catch it from you way up here in Oregon. Was just going to change the wife's struts and springs in back before Thanskgiving. Next thing I know, WIAT, she's getting pretty upset asking for her car back for Christmas. Ah! a cheap Christmas you say, well after new rear breaks, wheel bearings,, wheel cylinders, stub axels, seals, companion flanges, shot blasted and POR 15 on the transverse links, strut housings, front diff mount, new bushings, it was a little more time and money than planned. BTW, she got it back the 2nd week of January! Vic, it must be all your fault. ! Sounds like we all have been bit at one time or another. Good thread!

And with rubber you'll have less likelyhood of squeeking due to poor or drying grease. Even if you go poly, I'd think about leaving the steering coupler rubber to isolate some of the negative feedback through the steering wheel. My 2 cents.

Welcome Misty Lee, Nice to hear of the new toy. You'll get planty of info here. Arne is right. Your car originally had the diamond pattern on the tunnel. Can get replacement material from many sources if you want it and don't have it.

Since Dave has stopped building his relay harness for the headlights, I'm wondering if anyone has picked this up. I asked for the plans but heard nothing. If anyone can provide the plans I could build. I have a dead light and would like to upgrade to halogen while I'm in there. Help please!! Bryan

I used an 18" cresent wrench. I happened to already own one. After I got the nut off the top of the strut housing I could not remove the strut from the housing. Even after spraying a lot of PB Blaster in. I took mine to a local small alignment shop and he removed it for me without damaging the housing. He didn't charge me, but I made sure to give him the alignment business after I was done. As to the spring compressor, AutoZone will loan you a set after a $40 deposit. You will get your money refunded upon the return. I ended up not using them. I pointed them away from me and when I removed the top nut, the spring flew all of 2-3 feet. I was pretty nervous though. I replaced them with Tokico springs and no compressor is needed to install since they are designed to lower the car 1 inch. Now on to the rears! God speed!

If you read further (check with the race engine builders), I think you'll find that if you plan extensive porting, most experts will star with an E88 and change the combustion chamber and ports. The extensive porting work makes the head you start with less important. That being said, I would look for a P90 for myself, because I would not want extensive porting. Possibly unshroud the valves to reduce turbulence. The combustion chamber is improved in the latest heads, but not as improved as they can be made by an experienced L28 builder. A good street machine wouldn't need the extensive head work, IMO, but a streetable strip or track car will benefit from more money spent by a quality builder. I would really like to hear what you decide on a cam and how it works out. I am preparing to go down this road myself except I just want a strong street car. Please share your results and how it works out for ease of starting, tuning, dependability and such. What is your time frame? My 2 cents, take it or leave it. I am relaying information that has been shared with me. Just want to be clear. I have no personal experience building an L28 yet. But after this winter that should be changed.

I have had the same experience. Danny stood behind his parts and promptly replaced the part I did not care for. The replacement was very nice. B.

Arne, you might give Beandip a PM. Seems he was telling me that scenario the other day. I thought he was saying something about putting a diode in the system to solve that problem. Best of luck to you and thanks for the updates. It is really good info. Beandip just helped me (more like taught me and helped me) pull the motor and tranny from an '82 and I'll be doing much the same this winter or spring.

Gator, You might PM one of our Aussie friends and see if they have some info on your choke cable. You also might post a photo of the console with the area uncovered and we'll see how close it is to a '73-74. BTW, the '73 choke cable is still available from Nissan. Good luck!

I really appreciated meeting you folks. Nice little gathering. A repeat once in a while through the winter would be great, but in the spring, we'll have to cruise for dinner somewhere. Sorry you didn't make it Dave C. but work comes first. Hopefully Dr. Rich, and Phred will join you next time (and others, I hope). Gary took a couple of pics. and maybe Enrique. Perhaps we can send them to you. Maybe a bit much Z talk for the wives, but Gail had a good time none the less. Good people, nice cars. Thanks Mike, for the idea.

Pretty good info coming out of Moronville, Moronovia these days!

Chris, Very cool. I had not seen these before. Thanks for the info and pic.

He'll take a bucket, but will he take his car? :nervous:

#1, glad you weren't hurt. #2, glad it wasn't your Z. #3, be as obstinent as they are. Play hardball if that is what they want to play. I had my company car, a few years ago, hit by a garbage truck, I was in their shop at the time. It's forks sliced open the sheetmetal from just behind the headlight down both doors and onto the rear quarter. That company understood what insurance was for and were very helpful. In fact the drover came into the shop to find who's car it was. They were very honorable.

Not a smiley, but will this do? ..oo*"""**oo.oo*""*oo. oo*" "*o.o*" "*o. o o *o .o o 'o o o o. o o o o \o/ o o --0-- o o. /o\ o o o o o o o o o oo oo o oo oo. oo oo 'ooo. oo. ooo o ""oo,, ,,oO-'Oo, ,,,,,oo"o o. """"" oo """"" o 'o oo o' o oo o 'o o o* o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o Damn, that didn't work. Looked good when I hit submit, but lost all the spaces between letters.

WHen I was 16 in 1968, I had a Z! That is not really supposed to mean anything, like the rest of this thread.

Hi All, Check your e-mail or PMs. It will be BJ's at Jantzen Beach, Thursday night 7:00 pm.

Mike, I've seen an engine for a couple of hundred recently. I bought a car for $500, but I needed the engine, tranny and other things. I had heard of a car in the Tacoma area for $200 but didn't get a returned call or answer. I also know of 2 cars in the Clackamas area, one iwth w siezed motor. These have been sitting for years and belong to this guys grandson. I know he wants to get rid of them and you may be able to get it all for $200-$250. But you may have to take it all. If you want a block only, that would need to be bored, you can find those really cheap. And if you can scour the wrecking yards, you may get an L28 really cheap and relatively whole. I'll keep my ears and eyes open. B

I haven't swapped out the steering coupler because I was not wanting hard feedback through the steering wheel. The rest of the front is all urethane. Steering response was greatly improved. What do you folks think about the coupler in rubber to cushion the shock?