2ManyZs

Get the hinges and tranny out of nearly any other ZX in a junkard or in the classifieds on one of the numerous Z sites. They are all interchangeable, although, if yours has a 5 speed, you might have to search a little more, but you should find quite a few.

Have your battery and charging system checked and check all the grounds and cables. The starter not engaging could be too low voltage and it's not engaging the solenoid. Just quitting like that could be because the battery was low and it wasn't supplying enough voltage to the electronice ignition.

I always wanted a set of Recaro's, for the simple fact you could mix and match the bottoms and backs to fit what you wanted. Don't know if they still do it that way or not, but at one time you could use the back that had the type of bolstering you desired with a seat bottom that had more or less bolstering depending on your personal preferrence. You could use an adjustable seat bottom with a non-adjustable back and vise-versa. Most of the aftermarket seats have a selection as to how much bolstering you desire. It's all in what you want. The biggest problem in a Z is finding one that is narrow enough to fit.:disappoin Miata seat would be my choice, I've sat in a couple of Miata's and the seats were pretty comfortable, even though the rest of the car wasn't, at least for me.

N42 head was on the 75-76 280's. The question would be is the head still on the block it came on orginally? This might help you a little. http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html

I can't seem to find an interior pic that shows the seatbelts, but didn't the ZX's have color coordinated seatbelts? Seems you ought to be able to make them work, of course, finding a set in red might be the hardest part. I know they had a red interior in the ZX's, but it probably wasn't the most popular color.

They were also used on a lot of other Nissan cars in the 80's. I had an 82 200SX that had it, and it was the about the only thing about the car that I hated. It was extremely annoying at times, but put it nicely.:devious:

There's a few things that could have caused it, but no matter what caused it, that center section is now junk. Could have been low lube that caused the spider gear or gears to overheat, improper assembly on a rebuild, or bad side carrier bearings. Hard to tell with just that pic, you'll need to completely disassemble the rear to find out. The ring gear looks to be in fair shape (at least what is visible)considering....

#28 in the diagram you posted is the Air Regulator, if you tell them the correct name I'd be willing to bet they have it.

Well, the only thing I can think of that could possibly cause the problem other than a sway bar that isn't bent correctly or is just plain defective would be the control arms or the frame itself. Have you checked to make sure the control arm bushings are mounted correctly, that is, if they have been replaced? The thicker part of the bushing should be at the rear of the control arm, which mounts the control arm offcenter of the opening towards the front? Has the car ever been dinged in the front or backed into that you know of?

The only thing I can think of better for my dash than just having Mr. K's signature, would be Mr. Matsuo's signature along with Mr. K's. One would be good, both would be perfect.

I've been friends with numerous drivers, crewed for, and driven an ITS car with the aluminum/delrin/or poly, and I've yet to hear of any problems with control arms or T/C rods caused by the bushings. This goes back all the way to the mid-80's.

Never had that happen. Aren't the mounting plates slotted for a little fore/aft adjustment?

Pics, description and price sent....

gema, PM me with your home e-mail address and I'll send you a couple pics with a full description. I'm about 2 1/2 hours away, depending on traffic around the Beltway. :dead: I'm 20 minutes south of the end of I-66.

Replacing the balance tube isn't a true necessity, you can just block off all the unused ports of the original one if you wanted to. The earlier balance tubes may flow better according to some, but I don't think it has really been established in print that they really do. I think they did it more as an ease of installation, since a lot of times you will have trouble getting the lines removed and their hardware out of the old manifold in order to plug them. This way, it's just a simple matter of taking one of and putting the other one on. Looks good to me Ben, guess you know what you'll be doing now eh? The more you look at that, the more you'll want to start polishing everything up to match since it's now running better....:cheeky:

Funny you mention that car, I haven't gotten any more e-mails form the guy that was caught in the middle of that deal. He asked me what the car might bring, but I guess the guy that owned it wouldn't sell it for what it was really worth.

What I meant was, a car sold in VA must have a title to be sold or re-registered, I've never tried to get one with just a bill of sale so I don't know if they will give me any grief or not. Hope not, but then, it isn't really important anyways since the car won't be driven on the street anyways.:cheeky:

With triple carbs and a performance cam, I'd say that the fuel mileage is going to suffer. 15-20 sounds about right depending on which rear gear ratio the car has in it.

Just as a start, check the timing as it may be advanced just a little too much, which could contribute to the high temps. The stumble is probably a jetting issue with the carbs.

VA won't allow you to "sell" a car for a dollar, guess they got tired of not getting their little bit of sales tax, or at least that's the way it used to be. Will, I may be buying a GA car without a title, let's hope that VA will let me get one with just a bill of sale. We can't sell a car without a title, no matter how old it is, it's gotta have a title.

Check with Chloe at MidwestZ, she may have factory manuals. If you watch on Ebay for a user by the username "datsundude", he still sells some of the early manuals, all new. I've heard that there are certain model years of the manual that are getting very hard to come by now, possibly the 72 model year as there are still so many of them on the road. You can still get copies of How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car on Amazon the last I knew. Doesn't show much as far as mechanical, but might help with body disassembly.

Sounds like what most of us here would consider a great street car. If the suspension is one you can live with on the street, the rest is just icing on the cake. MSD's can be a pain trying to get the tach to work, but, I've seen it done. Try hooking it up like you would on a stock ignition and see if it works. The guy who built the ITS car I have was told the tach wouldn't work with the MSD, yet he hooked it up and it worked fine until he swapped out the tach for a better one. As far as the exhaust, it's gonna be a trial and error to find a muffler you're satisfied with. It just depends on how much you want to hear. You could try one of the "Turbo" style mufflers such as what MSA sells in the kit.

No, but they let the marketing department have free reign with what went into the car to keep up with the market. Such as the navigation system in a "Track" model. If you are going to call it a Track model, it should have only the "go-fast" goodies, without all the "fluff". Heated seats, mirrors, nav system etc, should be on the Touring model and maybe optional on the Enthusiast. Kinda like what Chevrolet did with the Z06 model, only what it needed for it to be the best that it can be. You've got one model that has all the "high tech" they can offer, and one that is made for the true enthusiasts and racers. Now, if it looked more some of the early concept drawings, we all would like it a lot better.

Not chrome, just a lot of "elbow grease". Sanding, polishing and then polishing some more.:disappoin

You'll find most people here don't like the 350 because it's so complicated (like all new cars) that they can't work on it themselves. Too many electronic "gizmo's", traction control etc... most of us feel that traction control is the drivers right foot. The 240 was and always will be a simple design that just happened to work better than nearly everything else on the market at the time, while the 350 is trying to keep up with the market in technology. Even the body design doesn't evoke any memories of the early cars either.