2ManyZs

I know it doesn't help, but I think just about everyone who has ever raced has had one end up like this sooner or later... :disappoin As long as you walked away with only hurt feelings, you have done good.

Hard to believe a female would even reply to this......... Thought womens' ages were always a well kept secret?:devious: :cross-eye

Hard to tell about "this one", might be a KIA or a Toyota Prius...... I think he needs to remember to put those cars up on the lift a little higher before he tries to walk under them....:cross-eye

Don't know about their prices, haven't done business with them yet.. Since they advertise themselves as the largest supplier of Weber realated items, seems they would be as reasonable as anyone...... Nuttin' is going to be cheap when converting to triples....:cross-eye

Try this link if you need just a manifold or linkages, I believe they have most anything you need... www.piercemanifolds.com

Only time I've ever seen the dipstick pop out and oil spray out of the tube is when the crankcase wasn't vented properly. Like when someone takes off the smog garbage and doesn't vent the breather correctly or the breather vent becomes clogged. Haven't seen it just because of over-revving, but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen.

WHAT???? NO neon colors??? I smell a "rice-boy" revolt! :stupid: Gee, ribbed but not flourescent? :disappoin

Like the lawyers who are now suing a gun manufacturer because the "Snipers" used their product illegally? Wonder how long it will be before they start a suit against all the auto manufacturers? Drunk drivers use their products to kill and maim everyday... Oh hell, hope a lawyer doesn't read this, it might give them an idea.... Doubt they could come up with an idea on their own...

Not many honest mechanics can afford to drive 7 series BMW's or S class Mercedes.... So why does an "immoral" lawyer take his BMW out to look for an "honest" mechanic... Something wrong with this picture?

Someone has been "peeing" in the gene pool... 2ManyZs

That's the reason one of my first ideas was to get an Factory Service Manual. It gives all the resistance values for all the sensors, and tells how to test them through the plug at the ECM and which pins to use to do the checks....anything is better than "guesstimating"..... I'm a bit stumped when it comes to FI because I'm not a good "electrician", those little electrons are harder to find than those elusive "nauga's" for interior parts.....

Sounds like there might be something in the AFM. Take the plastic cover off the side and check to see if there is any corrosion on the rheostat. You might also check the connector on the side as well. Seems like I just saw an AFM on Ebay for a ZX... you might want to look and see if you can buy a used one for cheap and try that, never hurts to have an extra like that around if it doesn't work.....

I'd just like to have enough to be able to bid on something like this, let alone own it...:mad: :devious: What a "toy" this could be....:cheeky: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1876758679

Shame I couldn't have sold my pickup quick enough.... I could have put up with 3 small flaws.....

I can't remember if the nuts are welded to the backside of the door jamb, or if they are captured in a plate that is then welded to the jamb..... Either way, if the nuts are loose and/or turning, you've got a bit of a problem...:tapemouth :disappoin

Or they are hoping since he lowered his reserve, that they will be able to get a sweet deal....:cross-eye 56 minutes to go.....

You can replace them if you want to cut out the door jamb.... Best to try running a tap through them in the correct size first, and if they still don't look good, then drill and tap the next size larger.....If you drill the broken one out right, you may not have to drill it and re-tap in a larger size. Try to stay the same size if possible. Running a tap through to clean the threads and new bolts might do the trick.

They have a captured nut built into the door jamb for the mounting bolts. If you are stripping out the threads in the mounts, you'll have to re-tap them. If you are just stripping the threads on the bolts, get new bolts and run a tap through the mounting nuts to make sure the threads are OK. You can get a new striker assembly with new bolts and all the parts from Andy Russell, at z@datsundude.com for 69 bucks, this includes the shims and the the the spring loaded receivers.......

The bottom end is strong enough to take a fairly good sized shot, that is, if the fuel and ignition system is set up for it. I'd stay 100hp or less unless you plan on doing some fairly serious fuel system and ignition system upgrades. Detonation or lack of fuel will quickly kill any engine with nitrous. Even a 50 or 75hp shot would make a pretty good kick in the pants in a Z.

The spanner wrench (or platform wrench) for the coil overs should be a fairly generic item, you should be able to get one from a racing parts supplier fairly easily..... You could make one with a large set of slip of joint pliers if need be, just get a small tab welded onto the jaws to fit into the slot of the platform on each jaw. Or, you could grind off part of the teeth on the jaws and leave a small raised section. Just make sure the pliers will open wide enough to fit over the platform. A new set of pliers will cost more than the spanner wrench, but if you have an old rusty pair laying around.......

Here's the one that goes on the bottom of the shifter. One of our members has them in his Ebay auctions.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2400364043&category=6769

If that fails, start with the basics.... Air filter not clogged, air flow meter operating properly, fuel filter, etc........There could be any one of a dozen reasons for this problem:disappoin

Sorry Squeaky, errr Carl, I'd have to agree with Enrique. This one is a trailer queen, perhaps even more collectible than a Z Store car. It's in un-molested shape, and a low mileage car.... Only thing I don't like is the color....:sick: :cross-eye

Try unplugging the cold start valve (injector) in the front of the manifold and see if it makes any difference. It could be a water temp sensor or the air temp sensor that is causing it to think it needs to enrichen the mix (it acts just like an electric choke)when it really doesn't. BTW, the best thing I can tell you to do is buy a Factory Service Manual. It will give you numerous tests to do to determine problems in the Fuel Injection and Ignition. These systems are a bit primitive by todays standards, but they can get quite complicated when trying to track down a possible electrical problem like this....