2ManyZs

Here's the thread with the engine calculator http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292

Yes, they have a "targa" exhaust in the catalog, that would be fairly good with the stock manifold. Plus, it does have the resonator so it shouldn't be too loud. $139.95 For $149.95 you could get the "turbo" 2 1/2 inch exhaust to use with the stock manifold. Guess it is up to you, or you could find a quality exhaust shop that might be able to make up one for less or about the same amount.

I think a complete roof transplant would be best left to the pro's with the equipment to do the job right. Not that I doubt your abilities, but without the roof the complete unibody is going to lose all it structural integrity. Not too mention the problems associated with re-aligning the roof panel with the drip rail, windshield header, and hatch header when you go to re-weld it in place.... It would be a tough job to say the least. All the hidden spot welds around the windshield and the hatch header panel? UGH! I think the best approach would be to use the old roof to create just a patch panel for the cut out area of the sunroof and butt weld it in. With a little work, it could be done so that it would be hard to spot. Lay the old roof over the existing one, and cut out your patch by tracing it onto the old one from inside, and leave a bit extra when you cut it out so you have something to work with. By tracing it out, you would be able to have the proper curve in the patch to match up with your existing roof. I know that this would be one job I wouldn't attempt, especially on a car as nice as the one you are working on.

Stock exhaust is oK if you don't plan on any future upgrades to the engine. If you plan on a header or any other upgrades to the engine, go with their 2 1/2 inch "turbo" exhaust. If you buy a header, it's probably best to go all out and get one with the ceramic coating, as it will prevent rust and even help cut down in the heat under the hood.

IF you can get the pistons out with no trouble, rebuilding it with a kit is possible. One of the members tried it (hmsports) and could not get the piston removed and gave up and used a lter master and swapped the lines. There are actualy two pistons in the master and the main piston could be the problem...... Give it a shot, and if it won't come out, at least you know where to get a new master at a good price:classic:

This was too cute to pass up.... A long, long time ago... Nick the Dragon Slayer had a long-standing obsession to nuzzle the beautiful Queen's voluptuous breasts, but he knew the penalty for this would be death. One day he revealed his secret desire to his colleague, Horatio the Physician, who was the King's personal physician. Horatio the Physicain explained that he could arrange for Nick the Dragon Slayer to satisfy his desire, but it would cost him 1,000 gold coins to arrange it. Without pause, Nick the Dragon Slayer readily agreed to the scheme. The next day, Horatio the Physician made a batch of itching powder and poured a little bit into the Queen's brassiere while she bathed. Soon after she dressed, the itching commenced and soon to grew intense. Upon being summoned to the Royal Chambers to address the incident, Horatio the Physician informed the King and Queen that only a special saliva, if applied for four hours, would cure this type of itch, and that tests had shown that only the saliva of Nick the Dragon Slayer would work as the antidote to cure the itch. The King quickly summoned Nick the Dragon Slayer. Horatio the Physician then slipped Nick the Dragon Slayer the antidote for the itching powder, which he quickly put in his mouth, and for the next four hours, Nick worked passionately on the Queen's magnificient breasts. The Queen's itching was eventually relieved, and Nick the Dragon Slayer left satisfied and touted as a hero. Upon his return to his chambers, Nick the Dragon Slayer found Horatio the Physician demanding his payment of 1,000 gold coins. With his obsession now satisfied, Nick the Dragon Slayer couldn't have cared less, and knowing that Horatio the physicain could never report this matter to the King, shooed him away with no payment made. The next day, Horation the Physician slipped a massive dose of the same itching powder into the King's loincloth. The King immediately summoned Nick the Dragon Slayer........ The moral of the story? ALWAYS PAY YOUR DEBTS!

You guys might find this odd, but I've never used anything except the shims on any of my Z's and have never had squealing brakes. Even using Carbon/Kevlar pads on the race car they were quiet, and I've always used some type of metallic pads on street cars.. maybe I should shut up before I ruin my luck huh?:stupid:

I saw that too, and got a bit depressed as well. One thing I noticed on the car is that they painted the frame and inner fenders in a black "wrinkle" type paint. I was under the impression it would have been body color or were they undercoated in some way like the originals? Here I was worried about painting the underside of mine with the black POR-15 chassis paint....guess if the Z Store cars were black, mine won't look out of place as much as I thought... time to get painting....:cross-eye

Andy has a lot of new parts, so make sure you ask him for a price list. FWIW, I recently purchased a new "Euro" front bumper from him. Before he shipped it, he took it out of the box and checked it over and found a few small scratches on it. He e-mailed me and told me he was sending it back and getting me another one. Not many people would take the time to do that, most would blame the damage on the shipper and leave it at that! Andy will be getting a lot of my business from now on. BTW, in MSA's new catalog, they want 142.95 for the same master cylinder, and then they want 5.10 for the cap!

Give an e-mail to Andy Russell at z@datsundude.com He has them for 135 bucks for the 70-71 models and they include new reservoirs, caps, screens clamps and the filter in the bottom. Most times when you buy a rebuilt master you only get the bare master, which means you need to re-use the old reservoirs etc... His prices are right in line with everyone else, doubt you will find one any cheaper for the early cars. I just got one from him, and it's the first time I've had a set of brand new reservoirs with the original style metal caps in a long time...:classic: BTW, if you do get one from him, be sure to let him know that you got your info in our site. Just mention 71Zcarr, that's the username he knows me by from my Ebay purchases..not that he will give you a discount, but if we can send enough business his way, who knows?

How long has the mechanical fuel pump been on the car? I'm thinking a lot of it might have to do with the mechanical fuel pump being not up to par, that is why it not keeping up with the engine under load. If the diaphram in the pump is going bad, it will suck air easily, yet not draw fuel. The worse it gets, the less fuel it will draw into the lines as it is a lot easier to draw air than it is liquid. Since you have a 73 I'm kinda surprised it didn't have an electric pump on it already as they were installed as a recall to cure the fuel vapor lock that was a problem with the 73 and 74 with the flat top carbs. Another thing that could be a problem is the pickup in the tank, it could be partially blocked by crud from the bottom of the tank and is not allowing sufficient fuel flow to the mechanical pump. You could take the line off at the tank and blow a little air into it to see if it clears it, then reconnect it all and see if it makes a difference. Be sure to remove the gas cap to let out any pressure before you blow out the lines....You could also blow the line backwards form the fuel filter inlet to see if the line itself might be partially blocked.. All in all, leaving the electric pump on would be a good idea, especially if you are still running the falt tops...

If you still get heat, it's not the core. It's probably the switch or the motor itself or a fuse. I think MSA has new switches, or perhaps one of us can come up with a used one. Someone ought to be able to come up with a used heater fan motor as well. Check with zmanofwashington since he is so close, save you some shipping.

There's a chatroom for the French speaking members.......

Britt, if you can't get it locally, you can order it right off their web-site. They've got secure ordering and they do ship it fast. I got my order in two days, but then, I'm a bit closer to them than you'all. One good thing about ordering direct is you can choose from all their products, not just a select few that a local shop might carry..

Get the idea there will be a lot of us that won't be driving our Z's for a while??:cross-eye I'm only doing a good job on the 71 as I looked for years for a car as rust free and nice as this one. Now the other car? Might do a hack job on the roof and make a roadster out of it to play with.....:devious: Coil-overs, Rebello L-24, 5 speed, 4:11 Torson, maybe some fibergalss fenders, hood etc and semi-serious cage... maybe even a 50-75hp shot of nitrous:classic:

You have a new master cylinder that is for the later 240-280's. The early 240's, up to 71 do have a master cylinder that is "bass-ackwards" in that they supply the front brakes from the front, that's why the larger reservoir is on the front and not the rear. You can use the new one you have, but you will have to reverse the lines on the bottom which will require a good bit of VERY careful bending of the lines. It can be done, it's either that or buy the more expensive correct master cylinder (I just paid 135 for one) so it's up to you. You might be able to get some brake line at an auto parts store with the ends, but you would need a double flaring tool and a bender to make up a new line yourself. You chould be able to get a new line from Courtesy Nissan, or a large dealer in your area, if no luck there, try MSA or VB. I know VB has the hard lines in their catalog, so you might want to try there first to save a bit of money. As far as the corrosion and crud in the brake booster, I've never seen one that didn't have it. It's probably caused by the water vapors etc coming through the vacuum lines off the intake. Clean it out and look to see if the inside is rusty, if not put a little grease in there and re-mount your master.

In a word, Nope. Ya bum..... There needs to be an insulator between the back of the pad and the piston.

I've always had good luck with Fel-Pro gaskets. Most of the suppliers carry them and have used them for years. I'm surprised by the amount of pitting around the water jackets on the block. If you have access to a Dremel tool or something similar, you might want to try using one of the velcro backed Scotch brite pads made for removing gaskets. They will do a great job of cleaning the block in a hurry. If you didn't take off the front cover, you might want to at least try to shine a light in there and check the lower sprocket, hate to see it have a tooth knocked off after you get it back together. Hard to tell what might have happend down there when the cam chain suddenly wasn't connected to anything.

If you take a wheel off, you can check to see if the shims are there without pulling anything apart. You will see a small shiny tab over the brake pad backing plate just below the top retaining pin. It should have a small indentation or possibly a small hole in it, as you can use a pic to separate the shim from the pad if it is corroded to the backing pad.

The shims don't come with the pads, but you can buy a complete set of brake pad hardware that includes new pins, shims, and the retiner clips from MSA. The shims are a very thin, L shaped piece that goes between the pads and the pistons. They mount over both pins and have a lip on the side to locate them on the back of the pad. MSA's part number is 24-5301 for the hardware kit, it's only $17.55 per wheel.....and as rusty as the pins get, it's not a bad idea to have a set as a spare if you don't just replace the whole shebang...:cross-eye

If it isn't as Carl says, the pads could be the problem as well. Some of the pads today have a tendancy to squeal a bit under light braking. It has to do with the metallic content in the pad material itself. Some squeal more than others, as well as the amount of brake dust they emit. Have you noticed on some of the new cars how bad the brake dust gets on the front wheels? It's all in the pad material choices..... It could also be a bit of glazing on the new pads if you used them hard before they had a chance to bed in... First, the anti-squeal shims, then try different pads and/or check the ones you have to see if they have a glazing on the pads. Also, make sure you have plenty of grease on the pad retaining pins as they can cause the pads to hang up and that could also contribute to the noises....

There were a few of us there that day when they took the pics, Ken Lewis, ZZtom, Baddog, and Jeremiah as well as myself. Darn and they cut out my pickup and camper in the background...:cross-eye

Looks like the final product of the pics that were taken at the Northeast Z Adventure show in Syracuse, NY last summer. There was a Japanese crew there to take pics and they wanted all the cars to line up in the parking lot of Burdick Nissan and spell out Mr. K as a tribute to him. First time I've seen the final product. There were a few pics on the web-site but it looks like they did it in a collage to get it all in.... http://www.northeastzadventure.com/ They had the pics as a backgorund for the main page on the site the last time I looked, not sure where they put them now.....

If you do a Forum Search here, you should come up with plenty of tips on the brake upgrades and where you can find the parts.

Sadly a lot of the blame is on Nissan itself for the high prices of some of these parts that are becoming either no longer available or just more expensive. If Nissan doesn't place the orders with the suppliers, no one is going to manufacture the replacement parts or the aftermarket is going to have to find their own suppliers. If that happens, the prices are really going to be astronomical as the manufacturers are going to charge huge fees to manufacture parts in small numbers. Sadly, the Z car market is shrinking due to the fact the cars are harder to come by in useable condition. If the cars had been sold in the hundreds of thousands like some of our domestic cars, the aftermarket would step up and produce the parts as the market would allow them to re-coup their investment in tooling very quickly. Guess in some ways, we have been our own worst enemies for not buying the parts we are craving so dearly now, in the past when the supplies were available, so that Nissan would see there still is a market for them.:disappoin It seems odd that some of these parts are still available in Japan, when so many cars were exported to the US and other countries, yet the parts are no longer available in those countries.