2ManyZs

Probably the best bet for finding the correct speedo gear would be from a Nissan dealer, Courtesy Nissan in Texas might be the best bet, but MSA might also have them. They are going to be kinda tough to find in a junkyard since so few came from the factory with the 3.90 rear. In fact, one of the only ones from the factory with a 3.90 here in the US was in the later ZX's. You should find Courtesy's web-site in our web links here on the site.

If you can find a constant flow pump, if there is such a thing, you shouldn't need the damper. If I'm thinking correctly though, most if not all Fuel Injected cars now use some type of damper in the fuel rail. It would seem to me that if you put a pressure regulator as close to the fuel rail as possible, the pump would pressurize the line from the tank to the regulator and the regulator could provide nearly the same function. Since it would only allow only a certain amount of fuel to enter the fuel rail and then to the injectors, it would cause a restriction in the line from the pump that would then stabilize the fuel pressure and volume in the line aft of the regulator. Might want another opinion, sometimes my "common sense" approach doesn't always pan out.....:cross-eye

Guess he gave up trying to fight them and joined them....

FWIW, the fuel damper is there to even out the pulses of fuel coming from the pump so as to supply a nice even fuel flow. Some pumps have a fuel flow that comes out in "squirts" instead of a nice even flow. You would have instances of pressure spikes without it. Hope you can understand that, not sure if that adequately explains it or not...:cross-eye

Hmm, first off you have the timing too far advanced at 10 degrees BTDC, it should be 5 degrees BTDC. Point gap should be .016 to .020, have to go find my feeler gauges to see what that is in mm. If that doesn't help at all, is it possible you got the plug wires mixed up when you switched? It sounds like you may have the plug wires mixed up the way it is backfiring out the carbs and the exhaust.

If anyone else is going to ask "Santa" for a compressor for Christmas, here's a pretty good start on a decent set-up. Not the biggest you can get, but for the occasional use it would be perfect..... http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0204663428.1040330303@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccfeadchdfhemlgcehgcemgdffmdflh.0&vertical=TOOL&fromAuto=YES&bidsite=&pid=00916554000

Hmmm, hard to tell, but if it has no rust and an original owner car, it's almost automatically worth more than 1K. I'd guess anywhere up to 3k, but it all depends on the buyer and how much they want the car..... and how much they are willing to put into it to restore/drive the car. 280 values are slightly less than 240's for the simple reason they were imported in such larger numbers that they are easy to find. My guess would be between 1 and 3K with 2K to 2500 the most likely "saleable" price.Of course, on the west coast where there are many more Z's to choose from in decent shape, I may be being a bit optimistic...:cross-eye

Thanks Mudge, that was the link I was searching for. Couldn't remember where I had seen it....:stupid:

If it is in fact an R-160 with the 3.90 gear ratio, all you need to do is look in the tech articles here, I posted the correct speedo gears that apply to the different rear diff ratios. Match the color and teeth of the gear to the rear diff ratio and you are all set....

It is probably a 3.90 if it is an R-160 out of the 510, that was their stock ratio while the stock R-180 had a 3.36. Guess that would be the reason he changed it in the first place......They do bolt in easily into a Z, just not quite as strong as the R-180 would be. In fact, I have one in the shop that was taken out of a 240....

Daniel might be able to help you shed some light on what you can do as he is also in Charlotte. Seems to me, if it only has to be in place and they don't test the emissions, it should pass as the pump is now "in place", just not operable.

Hmm, if it is an R-180 it can't be from a 510 as the 510's came stock with the R-160. R-180's could be swapped into the 510's but it shouldn't make any differnce in how it fits in a Z since it probably came from a Z to begin with.... It is usually a bit of a PITA to fill a rear while in the car as it is hard to get the fill bottle up high enough and then you sometimes need a hose on the bottle to feed it into the diff. Not sure what the problem is if you can't get the plug out at all as it should be accessible if it is an R-180.

Hoods, yes. Only differences might be in the hood vents on some. Fenders, yes. Doors, yes but there may be some small differences in the latches and inner door panels. Hatches from 2 seaters should all swap OK, might be slight differences in emblems and strut supports. Headlight buckets should all be the same. Even the fiberglass ones from the early cars are the same as the metal ones on later cars. Rocker panels on all 2 seaters are the same, same as rear quarters. 2+2 will fit any 2+2 by the same token. Bumpers might have the most differences, that is if they made them somewhat like they did on the US cars. The supports are usually the major differences on the early thin bumper cars. Cowl panels and inspection lids should all be the same. As far as parts from other Datsuns goes, well, don't know. Luckily I've usually had at least one parts Z to pick parts from....

Blue will work as well as red.... Nope, tools ain't cheap, but they sure do make work more "likeable".... If the CH has at least a 10 gallon tank on it, it will work, it will just have to work a little harder. Make sure it flows at least 4cfm at 90 psi, or your larger air tools will not have the power they are designed to have. Course if you "flew" south like most Yanks, I might make you a deal on mine..... :cross-eye

It can, as well as severely fouled plugs, but that is usually in more extreme cases. It could also be that his carbs weren't tuned as well as he thought, but I didn't want to say that...... :cross-eye

Northern Tool or Harbor Freight will have most anything you need. They normally carry name brand tools like IR (Ingersoll Rand) or CP (Chicago Pneumatic) as well as a "generic" brand. I've got a bunch of CP tools and have never had a problem with them. I'd go for the mid-priced stuff, just to make sure you get your monies worth. I'd get at least a 3/8 in air wrench, either a butterfly one or the ratchet style, and a decent air chisel for doing those bushings....One of the mini die-grinders can be helpful if you don't already have a Dremel tool. If you want to really splurge, be sure to get a 1/2 inch impact too, of course if you plan on any body work there is always sanders........ As far as compressors go, I would try to get one with at least a 10-20 gallon tank. The more tank capacity you have, the less the compressor will have to run to keep up with the air tools if you use them a lot. FWIW, Sears has a roll around model with a 33 gallon tank for 300 bucks. I'd stay away form the pancake type as they are more for using with nail guns where you only use a little bit of air at a time, not constantly like you would with an air sander or grinder.... I'm looking at the Northern Catalog right now, they have Coleman Powermate compressors for about $250-$350 for 15-33 gallon tank sizes....better to get something a little bigger than what you really want, I'm on my second compressor and wish mine was bigger.......Runs constantly when using the blasting cabinet and drives me nuts with all the noise.:stupid:

Two main causes for "dieseling" are idle too fast, and/or timing is a bit too advanced. If it's idling more than 800 it will do it. If the idle is Ok, double check your static timing..

It fits in a 510 engine bay, so a Z should have even more room to spare.... I've seen many pics of the swap, but can't remember where they were....:stupid: Ought to be ablt to find one in a junkyard for a few hundred form an early car, but they will only have 170hp or so.... can't remember which years had what hp in the early Z-31's.

Uh oh, stoking that fire again huh??? :devious:

First off, since i don't know much (if any) about the later ZX's like yours, I don't know if they still have the vent tank in the quarter panels like the earlier models. If not, then one place I would look is your fuel filler hose. You might have a gas cap that is not venting correctly and is causing the tank to pressurize and it could be that is causing a small leak to develop in the filler hose. I would check around the tank carefully, if they do have the vent lines like the earlier models then that would be the first place to look.

Britt, Ben is talking about the Australian market, which got the 260 from 74-78, they never got the 280 starting in 75 like we did. If I remember right, the 260's, even the FI 260's in the US had the R-180. The first year for the R-200 was in the 75 280Z. But, the 280 also got the R-180 in 77-78, so the 280's had either/or, not just one rear diff during its model run, it depends on the year and model.

Alan, sounds like this might be something interesting to you. http://www.forbes.com/2002/05/27/0527feat.html Personally my vote would go for the Sunbeam Tiger.....

Guess I was a bit faster..... :cross-eye

My choices would be: 1. Polyurethane 2. Gas cartridge, not sure you can even find a fluid type anymore 3. R-180, lighter and it's already in there, no parts to buy to convert 4. 5 speed, especially since you could then lower the rear gear for more benefit of the 5 speed. 4 speed if you don't plan on doing any more drastic changes to the car. 5. Probably, if you can find a way to mount the hitch that is.... 6. Header and a good quality 2 1/2 inch turbo exhaust When or if you do the bushings, do a search on the site, there are many threads dealing with this sometimes aggravating job..

You should investigate as to whether or not the rust is coming from under the windshield gasket. If it is, you really should take out the windshield and fix it corrrectly, otherwise it will only come back and the damage will be even worse and the cost will go up accordingly.