2ManyZs

Wonder why the "driver" doesn't have a windshield? Never know when that tail might come up huh??? :sick:

If your Z is lonely sitting in a big garage by itself, this would make a neat companion..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6188&item=1876268384 http://www.sdsefi.com/features/nov02fairlady.htm

Troy, I believe Sean is suffering from a case of "sticker shock".:cross-eye Sean, the lights are going up in price incrementally with the availability of the lights. It wasn't that long ago you could buy two complete sets for the price of one now....:disappoin The harder they are to come by, the higher the price is going to go until they are NLA, unfortunately.....

Never used one but..... I don't think you will want to use it without the resonator or "pre-muffler" as it is called. The tip is nothing more than a tiny glass pack and with a header and only this it will be loud to the point you won't be able to stand it. I think it will be moreor less a straight exhaust, that's why they say you shouldn't use it without the pre-muffler or catalytic converter. If you are going to replace the complete exhaust, a better alternative would be a good quality "turbo" muffler. I used the "twice pipes" on my first Z and after the glass packs burned out, I couldn't stand the noise. :cross-eye

Haven't been working much since October so I have to do something to keep me from going crazy Jaymes. You want me to end up like some of those "frozen" people in PA? Gonna need another keyboard before long... darn letters are getting worn off....ya wanna send me one for my birthday? :devious: :cross-eye

I knew you would find the page sooner or later, I was just being lazy tonight and didn't look for it....:sleepy: My 71 missed out on being titled as a 70 by 3000 cars and one month....bummer...:disappoin

Hmm, let's see. Paint the underside of the 71 and put the suspension back on it that has already been rebuilt. Put an engine back in it, have to decide which one first... Start the body work for a re-paint possibly by next year:cross-eye Either strip the wrecked car or strip the parts car to fix the wrecked one. Try to find the floor in the garage again.... Get one car as a roller and the other one out of the way, paint the floor of the garage, which should have been done long ago...:stupid:

Considering the transit times from Japan, and then the distribution times from the port to the dealer, I would say they probably did change over in late August/early September. It might have taken 6 weeks or more from the time the car left the line till the time it hit the dealers showroom. Guess we haven't really come that far, the last Dodge I ordered took 4 weeks from the time it left the lne till it got to the dealer here...:stupid:

The VIN number means it was the 47,431st of the HLS-30 cars off the line or close to it. There were a few other models for other markets, so those were also being built alongside the US HLS-30 cars at the same time. They were also being number in order with a different prefix in the VIN number. Hard to tell what month the first of the 72's were built, as the Japanese didn't have the same model year changover that US makers did in the past. Now we see some of our new models coming out in July and August where they used to not hit the showrooms until October or November.... If you check out www.zhome you might be able to figure out about what month the changeover occured using the registry.

They fit, but if IIRC they are slightly different in the plastic on the handle. There's a new set on Ebay right now if you are looking for a new set, or is that why you are asking???:cheeky:

Use the same wrench, it is the same size and it may prevent you from snapping off a bleeder! Use the flare wrench to loosen them and then you can use a regular open end 10mm while you are bleeding...

Sounds like it might be in the socket then, check inside for any corrosion and check the wires out carefully in the rear. Is the bulb tight in the socket and fully seated?

Double check the bulb holder for any corrosion on the ends or on the bulb itself? Check the turn signal switch that it is fully engaging, check the plastic steering column panel that it isn't interferring with the switch. Try some electrical contact cleaner in the switch. Check the wiring harness at the rear for any loose or corroded connections. Failing that, check the ground wires on the harness in the back.

The absolute easiest way to replace the rack bushings is to remove the rack from the car and do it on the workbench....:sleepy: I've tried it while it is still attached to the tie rods and steering column, and it is not an easy thing to do as the rack will barely lift up high enough to slide the bushings under and around the rack itself. If you look at the bushings, they are a diamond shape and feeding them under and around the rack is a lesson in cussing and fussing. The rack will only raise up an inch or so before it makes contact with the oil pan. You can remove the rack fairly easily if you put the car up on jackstands, remove the tie rods from the steering arm, and then loosen the pinch bolt on the steering column and using a large screwdriver, wedge it into the slot on the coupler and loosen it from the splines on the rack. It is also a good time to check out your tie rod ends and replace them if needed. It might take the better part of an afternoon to do this, but it is the easiest way IMO.

The ones on Ebay were new, but I just looked and they aren't there and I can't remember the seller's name. If not Too Intense or Andy (check with him at z@datsundude.com), there's a guy with the username of rzola that has quite a few small rubber items on Ebay, you might try him..... OK, here's the guy's site, unfortunately I don't see the window squeeges, but he does have quite a few of the odd rubber pieces.... http://www.cybersanford.net/NewPage.html

Don't know if this will help either of you that are missing the covers, but look what I found on Ebay....:classic: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6763&item=1876063020

Think I saw some recently on Ebay, just can't remember who was selling them. You check with Too Intense or Andy Russell?

Make sure you get the VIN number off the firewall over the brake master cylinder, I think that will at least solve the mystery as to which market the car was built for. The prefix should tell at least whether it was built for Europe/Asia or if it is a "hack-job".

Driving a Z even at 65mph on the interstate you will see a considerable difference in the handling with an airdam versus stock. It isn't just for looks, it does make a difference. I personally don't like the G-nose either, but I like an airdam. Different strokes, for different folks......

As far as I know MSA ships world-wide, although the shipping charges might be a bit steep. Check out their web-site www.zcarparts.com or e-mail them at motorsport@sbcglobal.net They are still in the process of setting up their web-site so you can order over the web, so you might be better off to e-mail them.

As far as it being a collector item, the 75-78 280's aren't getting the interest that the earlier 240's have. The 76 production numbers were in excess of 45,000 cars for that year which is considerably more than the 70-71's. A few more years and the 280's will probably increase in value as there will be more and more of them succumbing to the "rust monster". If it is a low mileage car, and is in very good condition it is possible it could still bring a price nearly that which it sold for new. If you take car of it and make sure it doesn't rust away, you could see the prices go up for the 280's in the next 5 years as the car will then be over 30 years old and who knows what the market for old Z cars will be at that time. If it is in as good condition as you describe, I would hang onto it, take care of it, and drive it and enjoy the ride!

Don't worry, they are fine. It's just the manufacturers way of being released from liability since they may not have DOT approval. Take the stickers off and no one will ever question them, if they are OK for racing, they must be OK for everyday street use. Every Z I have ever owned had the stainless lines on them, and they all had the same sticker that went in the trash.

If it really is in mint condition and there is no rust up underneath the rear lip around the latch mechanism, 120 is a very good price. I've seen them go for more than that, up to 200 so I say go for it!

If you are going to drop the tank, you might as wel go ahead and get all the hoses you will need to replace the vent lines and possibly a new fuel filler hose as well. You don't need to use the stock replacement vent lines, you can use other fuel hoses to do the job. The filler hose is more than likely hard as a rock, so it might be best to figure on replacing it as well. Blow out your lines after you pull the tank and remove the old filter to make sure they are clear. Be sure to soak the mounting bolts on the straps that hold the tank with a good penetrant for a day or so before you try to break them loose, with all the rust, road debris and perhaps some of the undercoating on them, they can be a PITA to get off. And the J-bolts are welded to the straps, so if one breaks, you have one more thing to repair. Be best to pull the tank drain, it's hard to handle when dropping the tank with any gas in it, unless you have a good set of helping hands.

Happy New Year everyone. Someone like to tell me where the last 5 years went to, let alone 2002??