2ManyZs

I'm not sure what you got for the 260 in your country, in the US we had two distinctly different models of 260's. If the 260 has thin bumpers and carbs like the 240's then yes they should be the same. If it has the larger bumpers like the 280's we had in the US then they are more than likely different. The us spec 74 1/2 model had longer and larger diameter strut housings that were continued into the 75-78 series. I believe all the 260 2+2's were the larger, longer struts as well. Best bet is to measure the outside diameter of the strut housing, if it is the same diameter as the 240 they should be the same.

Glad to see there still are some "Euro" tallights available Troy, but boy, am I glad I got mine when I did.....:cross-eye

ZMeFly now::cross-eye :cheeky: ZeMeFly after he sells the Z::stupid: :tapemouth :sick: :disappoin :stupid: Just had to bust on ya a little Jaymes......

The early model would hardly be worth the effort in a Z since you only gain 10hp or so to begin with, but the last generation would be a viable alternative. They had 210 or so (can't remember exactly) in non-turbo form. Hardest part with a swap like this is making the engine/trans mounts as I don't think I have ever seen any advertised at least in "kit form", and the electronics and wiring are going to be a major headache. I'd do it if I could find a cheap enough parts car..... I would try to find a complete car you could buy instead of buying the parts after they have been "taken" out, hard to tell if you have everything you need if someone has already stripped the car. Then you could just scrap the rest of the chassis after you cannibalize everything you need. You could probably modify some of the stock Z-32 mounts to make them work in your car... just a couple more ideas to think about.

For the price these are, they would be hard to justify the expense on a street only car, or even a part-time autocross car. Now for a full-blown GT class car, they would be hard to beat. You can't use them in ITS or EP so that's settles that idea, now maybe for a full out auto-X car, maybe. Lot of other things you could do with 1200+ dollars that will make your car a lot better than the competition. Course, 1200 only get's you the control arms, then you would need coil-overs, better brakes..... yadda,yadda,yadda.....:cross-eye

Check out this link, it explains the pluses and minuses of each of the heads. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html My preference would be an E-31 with the larger 280 valves, but an E-88 with the 280 valves will work just about as well. The N-42 and P-90A would be the next choices as they already have the larger valves. It all boils down to what you can find for a decent price that doesn't require a lot of expensive machine work.

kmack, you need to clean your contacts.....:cross-eye

Me thinks Gavin may regret his offer when he starts getting packages of US spec taillights every day....:tapemouth :cross-eye

I still have one pic of the car. Not sure if he still has it or not. I can look up his number and e-mail and give it to you if you want it. I can Pm you with the details if you would like to get more info from the owner if he still has the car. The ad is no longer on the site, so it may be gone by now..... Here's a pic of the car before he got it. He bought it as a roller and that was the way he was selling it. No engine, trans, seat etc.....

You might also want to check the diff mounts out carefully while you are under the car and the suspension bushings as well. It could be the mustache bar bushings and front diff mount are shot and allowing the diff to move quite a bit which is transferring into the suspension and chassis. It could be a u-joint and with bad bushings in the mustache bar it is amplifying the problem, by transfering the shake to the diff....

I guess visionary means something totally different to those of us who are in no need of a "cranial-rectal inversion". She probably wasn't even born when the 240 came out, so what would she know about the past except for what she may have read? While I was reading her comments all I could envision was a "valley-girl"(like you see in those low-budget movies) suffering from "post-puberty stress disorder"! I read that article and got more than a few chuckles....... Perhaps if Nissan had designed it in Japan the car would have looked a lot better!

I bought a set of the headlight covers you are describing from www.nismoparts.com last summer. They are changing their web-site around and you might have to e-mail them to see if they are still available. Be ready to expect a price in the 150 each range, I'd have to look to see what I paid for mine but they weren't cheap.....

I thought it a bit curious the way he spelled it, didn't you? :cross-eye Sorry, just had to do that....... :devious:

You could also try a left hand drill bit. While it is cutting it is also trying to loosen the broken bolt. Like Beandip said, use plenty of penetrating liquid and with either a good quality EZ-out or a left hand drill bit, you should have a little better luck. If not, you could always take the block to a machine shop and have them drill it out and install a Heli-coil in the block. The reason for taking it to a machine shop is simple, they can put it in a large drill press and make sure the hole is straight as you don't want the bit to "walk" off course and drill into the water jacket and ruin the block. A Heli-coil will be as strong if not perhaps even stronger than the original threads. If you are not having any luck getting the broken bolts out, spend a little and take it to the shop, it will save you time and a lot of aggravation if you can't get the bolts out correctly.

Victor you have lived a sheltered life, you should try living somewhere that has more than 1 1/2 seasons.... I don't drive on it on purpose. Sometimes you can be driving on a bare road and then all of a sudden it's "bite the seat time".....:tapemouth I reckon it would be similar to driving into one of the SoCal dust storms.....

Had that same feeling in a tractor-trailer on the top of a mountain at the VA/WV state line a few winters ago. The scenario is a narrow two lane secondary road with lots of very sharp left-right switch backs. Snow flurries are in the air as I got to the bottom of the mountain and the further up I went the harder it snowed. It's about 4 miles up to the top as the road goes so I get a little unnerved as to what might be awaiting me on the other side. Catch up to a Toyota pickup about half way up and he is fish-tailing and spinning like crazy and slowing me down, which in turn means I have to use more throttle to keep moving and then start spinning myself. Every time I spin a wheel the truck tries to jack-knife as it is only a single drive axle. By the time we get to the top there is about 4 inches of wet, sticky, very slick snow covering the road and no sign of any plows or sand trucks. At the top is a right hand 90 degree turn and then it's down hill for about 4 miles, twist and turns, 25mph corners, you get the idea. Well, said Toyota is tired of me trying to push him up the mountain so when we get to the top he tries to speed up and starts spinning and loops it in a nice little 180 and backs it into the ditch on the right side of the road. Luckily I was barely moving when he did it, and was able to stop. He jumps out, locks in his hubs (doh, no wonder he had a hard time getting up the mountain) and about the time he gets to the right side, I feel my truck moving. SIDEWAYS! I'm sitting there, trying to push the brake pedal through the floor and then realize I'm sitting on glare ice. Not good. I blow the air horns, kid looks up and see me sitting there, and then he realizes the truck is sliding and I can't do anything to stop it. He "skates" around his truck and is outta there like a shot. I just start pumping the brakes on and off, and the truck slowly starts to come back in line with the trailer. I used the shoulder to go two more turns, and pulled off in a brake check area and set the front of it against the snow bank left by the previous weeks snow. Needless to say, I waited until the salt truck made one pass up and then down the mountain before I moved again. Had another similar incident later that winter, started off a mountain and hit black ice, pushed in the clutch and started pumping the brakes, trailer slid over against the guardrail, and that was the only way I had to slow down. Finally got it under control about 3/4 mile down the mountain. Glad I don't have to go back there anymore.....:tapemouth :sick:

Hmm, George you really had me scratching my head on that one.:stupid: I knew I had seen those seats before and it just hit me where..... I posted a link to that auction over on another thread...... The write up said those are "custom" Pro-Car seats. :devious: Not so "custom", just an aftermarket seat. I looked at them again and thought about how closely the headrest does resemble the later Roadster headrests. I wonder if they came with the seat or if someone put Roadster headrests on them. The Roadster seats aren't very easy to find so I'd almost imagine they came with the seats... I'd have to believe they would be a very "hot" seat, all that bolstering in vinyl wrapped around your torso.....:sick: I think in cloth they would be pretty decent though...:cheeky:

Ahem, uh, how is it spelled? :cross-eye

Definately not stock. Might be aftermarket or from another make of car. ZX's were the first to use the adjustable headrest if I remember right. Not sure if they ever offered a seat with bolsters like that. Looks like someone may have recovered them to make them look like the stock covering though.

Uh well, no. Haven't done it, that's the reason I posted the link so I wouldn't screw up the directions....:stupid: Mine is going to get the Crane XR whenever it is back in one large, bolted together piece....:cross-eye

HoHoHo, anything would be better than dealing with 2 sets of points...... It's a simple mod using a GM HEI ignition module (read:cheap) http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/ztech.html Look under GM HEI upgrade...

Here's another one that has the same thing.... guess most of us never looked that closely under the hood of a 260 huh? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=1875343933

Unmodified cars will get quite a bit of lift from the stock valence panel at even highway speeds. Air dams and the "spook" spoilers are designed to keep the air from getting under the front of the car and causing it to wander at higher speeds. They not only look good, but they do provide some much needed aerodynamic help as well. They were designed during the times that the Z's were raced heavily in the early 70's.

Proves my point about how ill-equipped most people really are to drive even a sports car safely. Some of the people today could total an Abrams tank if they were given the chance. Bet it won't be long before someone is doing a V-6/6speed swap into an early Z! Don't forget to get the wheels/brakes too!:devious: I believe there have been numerous postings here concerning everyone's fixation with going fast, and not thinking about the consequences of not having the ablilities to handle the car, or not having their cars up to the task. This is a perfect example of what "street racing" can end up in, whether you are racing against another car, or just your own ego........ Anyone want to start a contest to guess how few miles are on that car? My bet would be less than 4K on the odometer.

Sorry to say it, but that is another of those "we wish they made them" parts.. You'll have to either patch it, or replace it with another from a parts car.