2ManyZs

Wheels probably weigh 16-22lbs depending on the manufacturer, but that's just a WAG on my part. I'd weight my set, but they still have old tires on them. Gema, are you looking to stay with 14 inch specifically or would a set of 15's work for you? I'm not trying to cut into the deal, but mine have brand new tires. Plus, I'm close enough you could pick them up yourself.

So Lachlan, tell us how you really feel.... ROFL

Welcome... If you have a question, use our Search Box first, for the simple reason, if it's gone wrong with an early car it's probably been asked and answered. If not, we're always ready for a new one that leaves us banging our heads on the keyboard.....

What she cropped out of the pic is the Pit Bull she was playing "tug-o-war" with...

The end of the rocker panel goes behind the "dog leg", therefore no access to the spot welds. Unless you plan on doing the dog leg at the same time, you'll have to cut the rocker and weld it at the dog leg seam. Beware, if the rocker is rusted to the point you need to replace it, chances are there is more rust behind the dog leg. If that continues to rust, it will end up rusting through the inner wheel housing, and then you are faced with replacing yet another body panel. And the inner fender is not an easy one to replace.

Like Rob said, put the car out in the sun for an hour or so, with the bra laying on the car as it is in your pic. It will stretch out a bit after it heats up. I have the same problem with the bumper cover (bra) on my Ram, the first time I put it on, it's nearly impossible to put on, once it warms up and you get it on, after that it's pretty easy till you don't use it for a while again. Never put a bra on a dirty car, the dirt and grit on the paint will mess up a paint job in no time. Never leave the bra on if the car gets wet, take the bra off and let it dry, off the car. Never let the bra flap in the wind either, if it doesn't fit tighly across the hood, and loosens up too much, just the bra itself vibrating up and down in the wind will leave marks in the paint. Even if the car is spotless. Don't ask how I know this....:disappoin

Never seen one with the model designation on it, unless someone did it on a CNC machine in their "spare time" at work. The ones I know of are, Nissan, Nissan 2400 OHC, Nissan OHC, and the Nissan Turbo on the 280ZX's.

Lee, that looks like the ones that came in the 260's if I'm not mistaken. Looks like the one that I took out of my 75 280 many years ago. I think that it may have been the standard radio in the 74-78 cars.

I believe they were dealer installed options, just like the A/C units were that were installed in the 240's. As far as picking up the chrome, it might not be a bad idea, but, you might end up stuck with them as the number of cars that still are on the road that have the vinyl top are amost as rare as dinosaurs...:cross-eye There have been a couple 240's advertised on Ebay that had the vinyl top, but they are few and far between.

You will have to cut the strut housing in order to fit the cartridges you get. Here's a Tech Article that should answer nearly all your questions. In the middle of the article it explains shortening the housing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1200

If it is truly as rust free as he claims, anyone in the "rust belt" would gladly give 1K for it, possibly a fair bit more.

Strut cartridge, insert and shock are different terms for the same thing. They are installed into the strut housing which is what the lower spring perch is welded to.

Sounds like the master cylinder seals are slowly giving up the fight..... The black you see in the reservoir is probably from the seals. Of course, it could also be a problem in either the clutch disc or pressure plate itself. I'd change the master first since it's the simplest to change and bleed the system to flush out all the contaminated fluid. If it still has the problem, the only thing other than the clutch itself is the slave cylinder.

I bet someone got a "goose egg" after the delivery too.... or did you hide all the brooms and other weapons when the "Big Brown Truck" drove up???

Here's the first place I would look, I know they sell new Mikuni's, but they also do a pretty good used business too. 50's aren't going to be as easy to find as 40's or 45's. The site is down at the moment, but keep checking and go through their used classifieds to see what they might have listed. They might also be able to point you in the right direction to find what you are looking for. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/classified.htm

Control arms can go on either side, it doesn't matter as long as the bushing is installed correctly. As for the T/C rod not lining up, did you have it torqued in place or was it loose in its mount? The control arm shouldn't be at an angle forward or backwards, it should be straight, or at least look that way to the eye. Easiest way to install the T/C rod is to install it into the mount, and only put the mounting nut on far enough to keep it from falling back off, then bolt it up to the control arm, and when you torque the T/C rod mounting nut into place it will locate the control arm on its own.

Are you talking about the metal strap that holds the lines into the chassis brackets or the rubber pieces that go around the lines to keep them secure in the brackets? The rubber pieces are probably NLA, and the metal tabs may be also. Your best bet would be to check with Chloe at MidwestZ, if anyone can get them, I'd say it would be her. If not, then probably getting them off a parts car is about the only other solution unless you want to try fabbing them up yourself.

The article basically says what you just said Stephen. :devious: No matter how Nissan touts the 350Z as an "evolution" of the Z, it's just a bunch of PR hype. I'm just glad someone put it out in print finally so that more people who share our opinion of the new Z can have their opinion out in print for everyone to see.

For those of you who don't subscribe to GrassRoots Motorsports magazine, there is a nice article in this months issue comparing the 240Z to the 350Z. All in all, it's a pretty good article. It briefly covers the history of the 240 (with no mention of the "G" name ) and spends most of the article comparing the technology and the simplicity of the 240 compared to today's "sports car" the 350Z. The best part of the whole article are the terms used to compare the styling of the two cars, in which they used the term "gimmicky" when descrbing the 350Z:cheeky: while describing the 240Z as "elegant". Well worth the price of the magazine IMO.

I think those pics came off a Japanese site, but I can't remember which one. I know those pics have popped up quite a few times in the last couple years. There's probably a few here on the site somewhere as well, maybe even in the Gallery. Here's a site you might want to look through to see if the car is on there..... http://www.sun-inet.or.jp/~akiras/240zg/index.html

The outer strut housing diameter on a 240 strut is 2 inches or 50.8mm and the later 280 housings are 5mm larger in diameter (or close to that) as far as I know. Don't forget to double check the lenght of the strut insert you take out to make sure the ones you buy will actually fit. There's probably a bit of variance in body length between all the manufacturers. As far as insert choice, I guess I'd take a consensus of what other racers are using and go by that. I've heard good and bad on the Advance Designs from GC as well as the Tokico's and Koni's......It's about the same as asking which tire is best, you'll get a myriad of opinions depending on who you ask and how big their budget is.

Hehe, get out of that wine Steve, you're seeing things.... Yeah, it's not exactly what I'd want as far as the cage, but the basics are there, and I've got a cage to tear out of the wrecked ITS chassis that I can use to put some extra tubing in another one.:devious: Of course, Vintage rules differ quite a bit from SCCA rules, so the X brace in the rear wouldn't be legal in some SCCA classes. I think the only other thing might be the crossbar in the main hoop, but it's up to the tech inspectors judgement depending on which class you are trying to have the car classed in. I just need mostly rust free, "unbent" chassis to start with, so the cage really is an added bonus. All I'd have to do is unbolt the parts off one car and bolt them on another. Save a lot of time and aggravation that way. If it were mine, I wouldn't have cut into a car with that low a VIN number, but since it's already started......