2ManyZs

Sorry to have missed this question before. If you are using the mounting clamps that may have come with the sway bar, are they a completely flat plate? I have seen these with some sway bars, and that could be causing the movement of the bushing. If you still have them, try the stock clamps and see if they help any, they have a groove in them and if I remember right, they have a bit of a flange along both sides.... Hope that helps, if you still have the stock ones that is...

If I remember correctly I also had a hard time getting the bolts out of my 75 280 when I was stripping it to race. I ended up using an impact to break them loose, and I do believe they may have had some thread lock on them of some sort.....but that was in 89 so I may be wrong. Never remember seeing any that were left hand thread...

I just bought a set of new outside door handles from Andy Russell, $86 for the pair. Contact him at emailus@zcarsofarizona.com or you can call him at (480)816-8668

Did someone say TOOLS? Hmm, Tim Taylor flashback..... Socket sets: deep well, shallow well, 3/8 drive, 1/2 in. drive. 6 point! Don't mess with 12 point sockets unless you like rounded off bolt heads.... Wrenches: combination open end and box end. 6 point box end, see reason above.... The best screwdrivers you can afford, don't skimp on these or you'll be drilling a lot of stripped screws, and we all no how many a Z has. Punch and chisel set, ball peen hammers in a couple differnet sizes The best set of easy out's and/or a set of left hand drill bits. Definately the 10mm line wrench. Can chain tool, clutch alignment tool, head bolt tool, valve adjustment tool, any special service tools for the Z you can afford Air compressor is nice, along with a 3/8 and 1/2 inch impact, air chisel (for those darn comtrol arm bushings), small rotary cut off tool and sanders if you plan on doing body work.... But most of all a very large garage to fit all the tools into, if you get into the tools like some of us, you might need to move out the car so you have room to buy more tools.....:stupid: That's a good start..... good luck, it's taken almost 22 years of tinkering on cars for me to collect nearly all the tools I want, and the list of tools I still want is not complete....

If it is a grinding noise that goes away when you depress the clutch pedal my guess would be a bad throwout bearing and/or clutch. It might be the throwout bearing itself, but if you are going to take the trans out to check it replacing the clutch at the same time is the best way to go. If the clutch is fairly new, it might be that the throwout bearing is the culprit, perhaps needing grease on the clutch sleeve. Have you noticed the clutch slipping lately? Any funny noises while shifting?

Motorsport Auto still has the solid diff mount in their new catalog for $41.95.....if you're looking for the easy way out that is

PS-30 would indicate a Fairlady 432 and the engine specs look right, but what is the 7-1 on the bottom line????

Hmm, sounds like it's in the switch, the way you say it cuts off as soon as you release the key.....Is the key "loose" in the switch? Or it could be the key is part of the problem....

Not that I watched the show much, but I think she drove a silver 280, that is when she wasn't "running"......

Actually I like Harley's for one reason, if it weren't for them, they might never have invented pick-up trucks so Harley riders could return home after a ride! So if it weren't for Harley's, I might never have had the chance to own a Dodge Ram! :devious:

Diameter should be 2.5 inches. Length is dependant on how short the strut housing was cut to fit the insert used. I would imagine at the very least you will need a 12 inch spring as I used on my 280. I could have gone to a 14 inch since I had to run the adjuster collars up quite a ways even with the 12 inch long springs. The 280 strut housing is about 2 inches (approximately) longer than the 240 housing to begin with, so when you put the shorter insert in you will need to use at least 2 inch longer springs compared to a 240. I'd get three pairs of springs if your budget will allow. One pair of 275, 300 and 325 so you can have a little adjustability in your set-up. I ran 325 front, 300 rear at Summit. I could have used a bit softer set in the front to try to get the push out of the car after welding the rear diff. Remember you are going to be carrying about 400 extra pounds than a 240.:disappoin

It isn't that it never happened to anyone else, we just never told anyone.......especially those of us who ended up burning a hole in the seat or our pants.....

Now ya did it. I've had a buffing stand I bought form Eastwoods sitting in the garage for a year, now you made me see what I need to do. WORK!

Almost as noisy and annoying as my V-twin Craftsman air compressor, wait V-twin, is that a coincidence???

Yup, raced one with straight exhaust for 5 years.... huh, whadhesay? It will be quite loud, especially if you get it above 3K rpm's. Not much louder than having a cheap set of glasspacks on it after they burn out. I'd be easy on the throttle around cops as they might take a dim view of it being so loud. In my opinion it isn't much louder than a Hog with straight pipes, but cops don't seem to care about how offensive they can be......go figure... :stupid:

The way I was told to remember the firing order of a straight six is 15(is too young)36(is too old) and 24(is just right). Works on all inline sixes......course that was 20 odd years ago when I was still in high school... guess it would now mean 15(is your grandchild)36(is just right) and 24(is a fantasy). :stupid: :disappoin

I noticed it and the first thought was it figures, a kit car.... Not sure, but i think I remember seeing another one in the movie, Gone in 60 Seconds. But there were so many obvious "kit cars" in that movie, it would be hard to remember......

Check the block casting number. Sounds like one is not the original block. His may have been changed sometime during it's "previous life" and is now an L-28 block. Look for the casting number behind the alternator and compare the two. The heads will work on any of the L-series blocks, so that is no indication of anything, it's the block number you need to check.

zcarcreations has one on Ebay right now if you are interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1872172909

Bigger dies would let you do some exhaust work and tubing for air ducting for brakes.......

Is it possible you didn't get the clutch lined up exactly and it is now hanging up because of the angle of the input shaft into the pilot bearing? It's either that or it is hanging up in the throwout bearing as you possibly should have used the clutch arm from the 5 speed along with the 280 throw-out bearing. I'm not sure if the 240 and 280 arm are exactly the same or not. Did you double check the pilot bearing before you installed the trans? Perhaps the pilot bearing hanging up the input shaft...... Have had a few transmissions that needed a lot of "persuasion" but they were usually because the car had been sitting for a long time and the clutch disc splines had rusted fast to the input shaft. The throwout bearing sleeve would probably not be causing the trans to hang up like it is. But without the right sleeve, the clutch actuation is not going to be right. You would either have no clutch actuation, or the clutch could be slipping all the time. Either way, make sure you use the correct sleeve.

I guess when it comes down to it we shouldn't laugh at them too much. When I was their age all the rage was having a 65-70 Chevelle or early Camaro with big fat tires on the back, little skinny tires on the front, and of course air shocks.:cross-eye Only good in a very straight line....and usually it was a matter of stopping when the car got around to it.... We all go through the same stage in life, just the objects of our attention change. What I really would like to know is where the hell these kids now get all the thousands of dollars to throw away on all of this stuff. I worked my butt off for $2.25 an hour when I was that age, and could hardly afford to put gas in my 73 Cuda 340 so I could cruise for chicks.........and gas then only cost 60some cents a gallon! Did I miss something? Or am I just getting old?:mad: :sick: :disappoin

Excellent idea peterc! I've been involved in quite a few questions about this problem and I don't think any of us thought about the adjustment on the window frame.:stupid: That's why a few hundred heads are always better than one!

As far as I know all the automatic equipped cars in the US came with a 3.54:1 rear gear. A bit better than the 3.36 manual transmission ratio but not as good as a 3.90 or 4.11 would be with a 5 speed.

195/60 to a 205/60 ought to be just about right. I have run up to a 225/60 on 14x7's so a 14x6 would be just a wee bit smaller. Try to find out the tires section width before you buy, you need to try to keep it close to the rim width, in other words, a 9 inch wide tire on a 6 inch rim is not good for the tire or the handling. Most tire manufactures will have a recommended rim width so be sure to check that also.