2ManyZs

Could be a fuel starvation problem, ignition problem (timing or advance) or it could be your valve springs are soft and the valves are floating. :cross-eye Check your timing, points, vacuum advance etc, then go to the fuel side if the problem persists. If neither helps, it may be time for a valve job and springs.

If the oil was foaming, and you haven't replaced the oil pump, I would say that is the most likey suspect. Probably has a little galling or pitting on the pump rotor or maybe has a little too much clearance due to wear. This could be the cause of a little cavitation in the pump, hence foaming in the oil. A new oil pump is not too expensive, and would be cheap insurance. I personally always use the high volume pump for a little added security.

I think a lot has to do with the brand of bushings. I've had one set that fit tightly without the sleeve, and one that needed the sleeve. I guess each manufacturer has their own idea about how they should fit. :stupid:

One hour at 90mph? Didn't you post on the thread about street racing not being a good thing? Shame on you. :devious: :cross-eye

Sounds like the barrel of the switch is worn out and causing too much play to make contact. You will probably end up replacing the switch sooner or later. Might try looking for one form a parts car that might be in better shape. You will need to find one from the same year car if possible as some years are wired differently and you end up with a mess to figure out.

Hey, bribes are paid to the club. Shame on you. :devious:

Perhaps before you replace anything, you might want to double check your battery posts and connections at the starter. Try cleaning them with a battery post cleaner just for the heck of it if you haven't already. Might just be corroded. If not that and replacing the starter doesn't help, it's probably in the switch.

I think the thread size is 1/8 NPT, not sure about that but it sounds right to my failing memory. Most of the better gauge packages usually come with an adapter of some type that will work. If possible try to use a mechanical gauge as they will be the most accurate.

Those are the famous rear control arm spindle pins. Do a search for them here and you should find plenty of posts regarding these. They are the biggest cause of cursing and complaining on a Z car there is. :tapemouth

Double check your vent lines, you may have one that is either blocked, or possibly kinked. It may be that the tank is not venting and building up a little pressure and the "belch" came out the cap. Or your cap is just not sealing the way it should.:cross-eye Or it could be the cap is sealing too well, as the vent line from the vapor tank is under the cap and the cap may not be releasing the pressure. Look at your hoses and/or try a different cap.:sleepy:

Spokes should be black semi-gloss.

Sounds like either the clutch is shot or the whole copressor. It may have been used with not enough oil in the system and the bearings in the compressor are shot. You should have a good A/C mechanic or shop take a look at it to be sure. You could try to turn it by hand after removing the belt, just to see if the compressor is turning freely or not. You can purchase just a compressor from MSA if you cannot find one locally. They have a much better rotary compressor to replace it with and it will work much better than the old style compressor and be much more efficient.

I have another idea Mike, this one will require no changes to programming or any type of long drawn out process. How about if you send a PM to a member of your choosing and ask them to pick one? That will save a lot of time and hassles with programming the system, and will get an ecclectic mix of cars since everyones taste is different. You just look around and see who is on the site at any particular time and ask them to pick one of their favorites and send it to you in an E-card which is already set up. Voting would just cause more problems, as you may run into problems with a majority agreeing on one car in particular. Too many nice cars are in the gallery now. A large number of members choosing from that many cars is going to be confusing to say the least. Whacha think?:cross-eye

I would try Bonzai Motorworks. I beleive they did a lot of the stickers and labels for the Z store cars. www.zzxdatsun.com

I don't have one available right now. I just thought you should tell where exactly you are to let others know. We have members on the site from all over the world now. Lot's of different places North Brunswick could be.

MSA should have the header gasket for about 8-9 dollars, ask for the preformance header gasket, part number 15-2525for 70-74 with carbs arnd square ports, 15-2526 for 75-76 with square ports and FI. It will depend on lot on how much the flange is warped (if it is at all), lay a straight edge across it and see if there are any gaps, if there are gaps, if they are say 1/16th of an inch or less, you should be able to re-use the header with no problem. As long as you use a good gasket and torque it correctly. Any more than that and you might have to either have it straightened or buy a new header. :disappoin

Cars are easier to buy "parts" for. And they don't complain if you are seen in another car. Beware, the car can actually cost you more in the long run. :stupid:

Almost impossible to identify a particular brand of header. Looks like at one time they were chrome plated, but that has been a while ago judging by the rust.

Looks a lot better than a lot of cars. Best thing to do is to start cleaning the area and find out how far the rust may have spread. If it hasn't spread more than an inch or so in either direction, it looks like a fairly easy patch job. Be sure to check the floor/firewall area closely around the spot. Hopefully it hasn't spread too far.

If the car has been sitting for a long period of time, the first thing you should do is to change the oil and filter. Don't bother with synthetic, it is a waste of money with an engine of unknown mechanical condition. Just buy a good brand name oil and filter. 10w/30 or 40 would be a good start as far as what weight to use. The second thing you should do is to have someone do a compression test on the engine. A leakdown test will tell you more about the overall condition of the engine than any other test you can do. It may have worn rings, or bad valve seals, or a combintaion of a few other things. This may be part of the oily condition on the plugs. Do this first before you bother buying new plugs. You need to find out exactly what compression you have, and how well the rings are sealing and what shape the valvetrain is in before you worry about whether you will need to do any major work to the engine.

The only way to do this would be to find someone with a factory service manual for both years and trace out the wiring and hook them up by the wiring diagram. Just because they are the same color code does not necessarily mean they are the same. Hopefully there will be someone with the manuals you need here, might take a while to get the right answer.

What about Solo 2? Two car running on mirror image courses of cones against the clock.

Only thing I see wrong with that car is the wheels. Too big. Notice the rear wheel rim extends past the sidewall of the tire? He should have opted for a little narrower rim, then he could have used the right size tire and would not have had to worry about it rubbing his fender.:tapemouth I think the car would have looked better with a smaller diameter wheel, the relationship between the tire, wheel and fender opening just isn't quite right. One size smaller diameter and you wouldn't have the wheel well filled with a wheel that just looks too big for the car. Just my opinion. :cross-eye

If you really want a grill piece in the bottom, why not look for a 280 grill? They are a two piece grill with one piece that went above the bumper and one that went below it. You might be able to use the lower piece and mount it in there (probably have to make up some mounts) to make it look stock. Just another idea:ermm:

I think I replied to this before, but just in case. Did you use the tachometer from the donor car? There is a resistor or something like that in the back of the FI cars tach that affects the idle speed. If you have the original tach in there it will not have that, and this may be part of the problem. If not there, it may be in the potentiometer on the side of the air flow meter. A Factory service manual is almost mandatory when working on FI, it will explain all the test procedures and how to test all the sensors without taking a lot of them off the car. The Chiltons manuals and others are nowhere near as good as a Factory manual. If you can find one, get one, you will be glad you did.