2ManyZs

Only time I have seen a triple SU set-up on a Z, the guy had to fabricate his own manifold. Luckily for him one of his relatives owned a foundry that could cast one. No known manifold made for the swap. :disappoin

I haven't driven mine in a couple years, why you complaining???:tapemouth :disappoin

Everything looks pretty good except the Panasports. They aren't DOT certified. He must have had a deadbeat bidder on them, they sold a couple weeks ago and he now has them re-listed, or else he didn't get his reserve:disappoin If I had an extra 1500 I would be going to Florida to buy another car. like I need another one right? You play the Lotto????:devious:

Sounds like it may have a problem in the cold start valve (injector) or one of the sensor that controls it. You really need to get a Factory Service Manual for your 75. It will give you step by step instructions on how to diagnose and test the various systems in the fuel injection. It is expensive, but worth every penny when diagnosing FI problems.

If I am thinking correctly, the fuse block was not moved to the kick panel until the latter part of 74 here in the US when they replaced the carbs with the F.I. So if you have carbs it should be under the console. You should be able to replace it without too much trouble. But if someone has been in there and done a "hack" job on it, it is hard to tell what they might have done. The fuse plugs near the stereo might be for the stereo. The fuse panel itself is plastic and you can't take the lugs out of it as they would be open and definately cause a short. If you have a way of taking a pic of the area and attaching it, it might help one of us to tell if it has been messed with or not.

A man in his 40's bought a new 350Z and was out driving on the interstate at top speed when he saw flashing red and blue light behind him. "There's no way they can catch a 350Z," he thought to himself and put his foot on the floor. Then the reality of the situation hit him, "What the hell am I doing?" he thought, and pulled over on the side of the road. The cop came up to him, took his license without a word, and examined it and the car. "It's been a long day, it is the end of my shift, and it's Friday the 13th. I don't fell like more paperwork, so if you can give me and excuse for your driving that I haven't heard before, you can go." The guy thinks for a minute and says, "Last week my wife ran off with a cop. I was afraid you were trying to give her back." "Have a nice weekend," said the officer.

Well, one of the resons to start it is to make sure oil is up in the head to make sure the seals don't dry out. After sitting for a long period of time, the oil will eventually all drain back to the pan and leave the top side of the engine dry. I'd start it at least once if it is going to be sitting for more than 3 months just to be safe.

Interesting reading to say the least. Guess that was kind of like "The shot heard round the world" eh? :stupid: :stupid: Bet he sold his computer too!

Before you make too many plans, you should do a search here for all the posts on rust issues and go over the chassis of the car with a fine tooth comb. If there is significant rust in the chassis, you will be wasting your time and money. You wouldn't be the first person who bought a Z only to dig into it and find out someone has patched the chassis back together to cover all the rust that has eaten away a significant amount of the uni-body. Darius may have a nice car, but way he drives on the street will only end up getting him in a lot of trouble. Then all the money for the car will end up in a lawyers pocket.

It would be a good idea to start the engine and let it run a few minutes every other month if it is long term storage. Especially if it is not in a controlled temp environment. Lots of temperature variations will cause condensation. To keep your rings from sticking and any surface rust in the cylinders, I would start it once in a while just to be sure. Be sure if you do start it to let it warm up good, to get rid of any condensation in the exhaust system.

No apology necessary. I guess I should change my username to three2manyzs, to be truthful. I actually thought at first it was Mike making up a username to test the system after the "Crash of 02". Now, if I could find out who got my username on Ebay.......:devious: :disappoin

Seems like I remember someone looking for a short pigtail fuse block. There is one up for auction on Ebay right now for a 72 model. Just thought it might help. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1863672718

It is also a good idea to practice welding some scrap sheet metal to get your welder settings correct before you start welding on the car. Welding any thin sheet metal takes a fairly steady hand and lots of practice. When you are cutting out the old floor pans, don't cut out the old floors to the correct size of the new ones, leave a little extra to allow for final fitting and trimming. If you are using a Mig, use a gas set-up, not the flux core wire, it will be much, much easier to weld, and a leave a lot cleaner and stronger welds.

Give me a day or two to go check out the two parts cars. Might be able to come up with one or two used ones. One is a 74 and the other is a 76.

Motorsport Auto's old catalog has them listed for 37.50:disappoin Only other alternative is a used one of a parts car.

Which SU's do you have? If you have the later flat tops get a set of the early round tops and you'll have a lot less problems. FWIW, a 4 barrel intake and a good new carb are going to cost almost the same as a set of ZTherapy round tops. If I were going to spend the money on a four barrel intake, the Holley Pro-Jection might be my pick. Only problem is the price.:sick:

Stock coil would work, but if you are going to the trouble to go electronic, you may as well upgrade the coil for more voltage. Hotter spark, with better control of the spark equals improved performance. Or it should anyways. :cross-eye

Take your time. Patience is the key word! Remember the old carpenter's saying, "Measure twice, cut once."

The dust boots are not really necessary. In fact, you might have a hard time even finding a set of new ones to put on anyways. The bump steer spacers won't help the tire wear situation, they are primarily to correct the steering geometry after lowering. It sounds like you have either too much negative camber or possibly a toe-out problem. First thing to do is to have the front end alignment checked before you do anything. It could be just a simple matter of setting the toe, or in the case of too much negative camber it would be better solved with a set of adjustable camber bushings. The bump steer spacers might make a tiny bit of difference in the camber, but the result would be only a fraction of a degree, not enough to make a difference if the camber is off by a large amount. Their main objective is to return the control arm to its original plane relative to the chassis and steering mechanism. When you shorten the springs, you decrease the suspension travel, and therefore the control arm is angled upward to compensate for the distance lost between the lower control arm where the strut housing mounts and the upper strut housing mount. Mounting the bump steer spacers only increases the distance from the control arm to the mounting point of the lower strut housing, thereby making the plane of the control arm back to its original horizontal plane.

If they were older than you, they would have to race them at Charlestown, that's where they race the horse and buggies. :devious: GOTCHA!

Berrry fuddy geezer. You are still older than I am.:devious: Yup, some of the cars there might even be older than our beloved "Tater:.

If you look in the web-links here you will find just about every Z car parts supplier there is in the US. Look under Z car businesses.