2ManyZs

I have heard of it, but would advise against it. It would only contaminate the new oil since you will not be able to get every bit of it out of the engine when you drain the pan. You would be further ahead to use some kind of additive like Rislone or something like that instead of using ATF. ATF is only good in transmissions, it has no place in the crankcase of an engine.

Ken Lewis recently forwarded an e-mail I would like to share with everyone who may be close enough to attend the upcoming SVRA races at Summit Point Motorsports Park in West Virginia on October 3-6, 2002. I am hoping to attend Saturday and Sunday, unfortunately duty calls and I will have to work until the wee hours Saturday. If things work out I will be taking the camper and staying the remainder of the weekend and taking lots and lots of pics to post in the gallery. Just being able to see this one car in person will make the entire weekend worthwhile. You can find info on the car over at www.zhome.com if you are interested. From the e-mail: Everyone, It looks like we are finally going to have a vintage race weekend with Datsun/Missan at least sharing the limelight with Morgans as the featured marque! I expect depending on the turn out that Datsun/Nissan may get it's own race weekend in the future. The races are to be held at Summit Point in West Virginia, October 3-6,2002. The weekend includes a special Datsun/Nissan only race and a two hour enduro. I would like to invite all Datsun Z (510, Roadster, etc.) fans to our paddock. We plan to be there from Thursday through Sunday. If you would like any further info you can go to www.SVRA.com See you there, Tom Bork Doc B Racing HLS30-00008 vintage race car From the SVRA web-site: The schedule is for the Mason-Dixon Enduro on Saturday at 3:45pm The Datsun/Nissan Feature race will be Sunday at 1:00pm For anyone from our club that may attend, look for a tall, funny looking guy wearing a ClassicZcars.com hat or look for my blue Dodge Ram with a red and white Jayco trailer behind it. That will be yours truly.:cross-eye :devious: If you would like info and directions to Summit Point Motorsports Park go to their web-site at www.summitpoint-raceway.com/

Well Mike, you already know my preferences so I won't repeat them here. I did notice when you open the web-links it only opens a window in the center of the main page (?). Looking through the Z car businesses it shows 25+ pages of links and only shows 3 at a time. Like the old way much better.:sleepy:

While the site was down, I was off looking around at those"other" Z sites:stupid: and saw a 200SX R-200 advertised for sale on zcar.com, might be worth a look.

Hmm, you stumped me on that one.:stupid: Come to think of it, I haven't been seeing the 280zx discs conversion kits advertised anywhere lately. I know they should be out there somewhere. You will also need a caliper mounting plate (takes the place of the drum backing plate) to mount the caliper. Try Arizona Z car, I'm pretty sure they used to offer them. I looked on their web-site and don't see them though. Maybe they can point you in the right direction to get the parts to do the conversion. At one time nearly everyone had a kit, now they seem to be disappearing.

I think it would be much easier to take the engine out the top. To get it out the bottom would require you to either have the chassis 3 feet off the ground and have some kind of engine stand on a jack to take it out the bottom, or raise the chassis high enough to clear the engine on the floor.

If you can find one of the R-200's out of the Turbo sx it will require some changes. You will need the lower suspension crossmember from a 280, the 280 crossmember has a curve in it to clear the larger diff. You will also need to replace the front diff mount. I have not seen a 200sx Turbo diff, but it stands to reason that you will need to change the stub axle flanges and possibly the pinion flange as well. Not sure if the 200sx used CV joints or not, but I believe they may have. They only made the Turbo 200sx for 2 years, 85-86 so they may be hard to find in the junkyards. You would be further ahead to try to find an R-180 out of a 84-88 Non Turbo 200sx and only have to change the flanges over, or, find a front diff out of a 720 4x4, 6/83-12/85 which will also have an R-180 4:11. An R-200 is not really needed with the L series engine, the R-180 will hold up just fine. Easier just to swap over your axle flanges than to have to find more parts to bolt in the R-200. Your brake question is fairly easy. The 79-83 280zx came with 14 inch wheels, so the brakes should fit fine. The 84+ 300zx came with 15 inch wheels so if you were to go with 300zx brakes, you would need the 15 inch wheels to clear the brakes.

Haven't done a rear disc conversion (yet) but anything less than 300zx rear discs should fit inside the 14 inch wheels. 280zx should fit fine, not sure about 240sx rear discs.

Next on the list would be Classic Datsun Motorsports, Too Intense Restorations, Zedd Findings. Sorry, thought of all of them Bonzai might have them before any of the others since they supplied some of the shops for the Z Store project. :disappoin

I think the Honda lug pattern is 114mm, where the Datsun is 114.5mm, close but not quite.

It might be the relay, or it might all be in the switch too. I'd check the contacts in the switch first, then check to make sure the switch is fully engaging(ie. the column cover is not preventing it form making its full arc to make full contact) before going into the relay. Might also want to check the fuse panel connections and fuse too. Go for the simpler things first if you haven't already.

The stud size(diameter) is 1.25mm if that is what you are asking.

As far as we have figured out, the Series 1's with the hatch vents were produced into the 71 production run, somewhere between the 12/70 and 2/71 dates. If I remember right there may have been one member with a 3/71 with the hatch vents. Mine is an 11/70 series 1 titled as a 71 also. I'm not sure if there is any documentation on exactly which VIN number the changeover occured. Most all the cars produced after August or September have usually been titled as the new model year. A lot depends on the manufacturer and what they put on the certificate of origin. Today some of the manufacturers will bring out their new models in June to get them approved for new emissions and safety standards.

Best place to find info on V-8 swaps is over at www.hybridz.org Jags that Run (JTR) has a kit that will help you bolt a V-8 right in.

Looks and sounds to me like he may have spent all his money fixing rust and given up after that. If there are no hidden rust problems, the front strut towers, rocker panels, and under the battery tray come to mind it may not be a bad deal. If it has a decent and complete running gear I would say it's probably worth 1K. It needs quite a bit of work, especially in the body/paint area, but if the repairs look like they may be questionable, then I would try to get it for less. If nothing else, it could be a good source of parts for another car if you can get it for under 1K.

4:11's could possibly have come from the front diff out of a Nissan 720 4x4 or a 200sx Non turbo if it is an R-180. Not too many cars came form the factory with a 4:11, most likely if you find a 4:11 it is one someone has swapped out the ring and pinion with a Nissan Comp part. Only know of one car here in the US that had an R-200 4:11 from the factory, that being the 200sx Turbo.

Might give Classic Datsun Motorsports a try since they did the resto's on some of the Z Store cars. Or maybe Bonzai Motorworks in MD.

Great find!! I have a 71 with a build date of 11/70 as well. Vin number 14749, a friend of mine has one with the same build month with a VIn of 13724. Mine was originally orange (ugh) soon to be 110 Red. Sounds like there are a few of November 1970's cars that have been taken care of in their long life. :classic:

I may be mistaken, but I think MSA sells rebuild kits supplied by ZTherapy. I'm not 100% sure but I think the reman carbs that MSA sells are also done by ZTherapy, that is why they get a premium price for them. Easy way to find it is to call MSA's tech line and ask them who supplies their carbs and rebuild kits. The number is (714) 639-2620 if you don't already have it.

The L-28 was used from 75-83 so there should be plenty of them available. Only difference in the blocks was the later L-28 had a siamesed cylinder with more webbing between the cylinders. These can be identified by the block number of F-54. Nothing wrong with a good L-26 either, the only problem that was experienced with the L-26 was the flat top carburators, and they can easily be changed to the earlier round top carbs. Same goes for the 73 L-24 with the flat tops carbs, change the carbs and you have as good an engine as any L series there was, just donw on displacement compared to the L-28.

No problem on the extra thread. There are so many variables involved in an auction vehicle it is hard to compare one to another. The model of the car of truck has the biggest impact on its auction value. If you are looking at a vehicle that is a high volume seller, you're going to end up paying closer to book value. What a dealer pays at auction is also determined by what the vehicle is as well. Just as in anything else, the demand is going to have the most impact on what the dealer and ultimately you end up paying. Remember the old adage, Caveat Emptor, let the buyer beware! Shop around all the larger dealers for the model you are looking for before you go to a smaller dealer, you will usually end up paying less since they can buy form the factory in bulk, where the little dealers may have to go to a private auction to pick up their cars. Or ffind an auction that allows the public to bid and just go see what the model you are looking for is going for. These types of auctions are hard to find but they are out there, but unfortunately they usually get the left-overs form the larger "dealer only" auctions. Or find a used car dealer that might allow you to tag along with them one time, offer to drive back one of their purchases if you have to. You would get first hand knowledge of what you are looking for and how much it brings at auction.

Complete RB would be the way to go, but it still isn't going to be cheap, and you will have to go out of the country to find one, or find someone who is importing them.:cross-eye

Best thing to do is to get yourself one of the NADA books (or similar) while shopping. That way you can look up the car you are looking at and get a ball park estimate of what the dealer has into it. They will try to get you to pay retail price, while they have invested only wholesale price(or less). The trade in value is usually somewhere in between. Most dealers are going to try for a 10% mark-up, but a lot depends on the dealer itself and how many units they really have crossing their lots. Low volume dealers are going to try for the highest mark-up while a higher volume dealer may discount their mark-up to sell larger amounts of vehicles. Best thing to do is find the make and model you are interested in, look up its value, then go make an offer of what you are willing to pay, if they don't like it, leave. Come back the next day and offer it again, if they don't budge, then the haggling begins. One thing to think about, if you have come close to terms, asking for an extended warranty can make a big difference. Some "program" cars (usually lease vehicles off lease or company cars) still have the remainder of the factory warranty attached, however, getting an extended warranty can make up the difference in what you are willing to pay versus what they are asking.

About the only way you will find a DOHC head is to go to Japan to find one. Then if you do find one it is going to be very, very expensive. I think you may as well resign yourself to not having one like the rest of us have. I've never seen anyone that makes a DOHC head as a replacement either.

Hmm, last time I was at the Advance store they had the Permatex high heat copper in an aerosol can. Wonder why you can't find it? It should be something easy to find.