2ManyZs

I don't think I would use asbestos, you might run into problems with the EPA! Seriously though, I think you could find better products on the parket than asbestos. Try looking at the Pegasus web-site, they have some heat shield material that is not too expensive you could try. Only other thing is buying a header blanket. Not the tape, you can get a blanket that slips over the header that would work much better IMO. I used the tape on the old IT car and didn't like it. If you run in rain it will absorb moisture and cause the header to rust out that much faster. I would recommend the blanket for this reason, the heat needs to stay in the header as much as possible. If you allow it to escape into the engine compartment it heats up the whole compartment, so no amount of shielding under the intake is going to do any good once the underhood temp goes up. You need to keep it in the exhaust system where it will escape the engine compartment to keep the underhood temps to a reasonable degree. With the blanket you not only help keep the exhaust heat inside the header, but the radiant heat from the header will be kept mainly inside the blanket. I believe Pegasus also has these and perhaps MSA, can't remember where I got mine, it's one of those things that has never been out of the box yet. I can't say for sutre it will work better than header tape, but the idea is sound at least. Only other thing is to route outside air from the grill area, the open hole on the side of the radiator support is a good place to put some type of ducting to route cooler air to the intake/exhaust area. Or perhaps an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator to force more air through the radiator and keep the air circulating under the hood when you are driving at slower speeds.

If there is a relay it should be on the passengers side kick panel under the glove box. I don't have the microfiche CD or a manual that gives the number on it so can't be more specific. :disappoin

A 225/60 would probably be a bit too wide for a 6 inch wheel, they are just about right for a 7 inch rim. Might be better to use a 205/60 or maybe even a 195/60 if you can find one. When choosing tire sizes you should look at the recommended rim widths from the manufacturer, you will get much better wear and handling if you do not go to too wide a tire on the rims you have. All tire makers usually give a recommended wheel width for each size of tire. The section width of the tire should not be more than about an inch wider than the wheel you are using. If the sidewalls are bulging too far past the rim you will not have all the tread on the road. Take a look around on the Tire Racks web-site for tires and sizes for 6 inch rims. You should be able to find many tires available using their web-site. www.tirerack.com

Gee, I'm just all broken up about that "Tater"LOL Just think, in 5 months I'll be in the same age category with you. :disappoin :tapemouth :sick: :mad: :cross-eye

Dazza, that's one I've never heard. A lot of truth in that one eh?:cheeky: I'm 40, soon to be 41. Still playing with cars like I did when I was 18, just have more of them and can afford to fix them they way they should be fixed. I traded my first car for a motorcycle because I couldn't afford a new carburetor for the car, even then Holley's were a bit expensive when you were only making $2.25 and hour. Wish I had that 73 Cuda back now.:stupid: Old age and treachery will always overcome youth and inexperience. :devious:

None of my books have it either, so since it says 11ft-lbs for the large front cover bolts, I would use that setting for the water pump bolts. 10-12 ft-lbs sounds pretty close to me. Anyone else have the correct torque setting? As far as the broken bolt goes, try soaking it with a good penetrating oit for a day before you try to remove it. Use a GOOD extractor, not a cheap one from Pep Boys or something like that (remember you get what you pay for, drill it as straight and as well centered as possible (center punch it first). If you cannot get it to budge, then don't force the issue and go without as Jeremiah said. I would at least give it one try to remove it instead of going without it not having tried to remove it.

Not sure if the US spec taillight assemblies are still available or not to tell the truth. I know Too Intense Restorations had a set advertised on their web-site, but no price was listed. I haven't gotten the new MSA catalog so don't know if they still have them or not. Their old catalog has them listed for 98 and 108, don't know why one side is 10 dollars more than the other though. Newest VB catalog has them listed for 169.00 each.:tapemouth

That reminds me of one place often overlooked. The inner shift boot. If you have even a small exhaust leak it will suck it in around the shifter boot and right in your face. :sick:

Actually, all crankshafts may not be balanced as well as they should be. It should also be balanced separately. Once it is balanced and the rods and pistons are balanced, only then is it truly a balanced assembly.

or taillight gaskets, or check for an exhaust leak under the car, or the grommets around the gas tank vent lines that come up through the floor, or extend the tailpipe out a couple inches, or.......:tapemouth

I'm not sure if this may be your problem, but it might be worth checking. There is a switch of some type in the back of the speedometer which has something to do with the idle. I had a 75 280 that would not idle down between shifts or when pulling up to a stoplight. I put another speedo in and the problem was cured. I can't remember what it is called and since I no longer have an FSM I can't look it up. Might be worth a look see. A vacuum leak on the throttle control valve is also a good possibility, been a long time since I messed with FI much so can't remember a lot. :cross-eye

Don't need them on concrete. But be sure to use them on a hot asphalt driveway, I've got plenty of "divots" in mine from using jackstands and floor jacks over the years. Doesn't take long for them to sink into hot asphalt.

The second time I looked at it, the more I do like the dashboard. It has styling elements of the original with a very nice look. I would give it a thumbs up. I would be willing to bet if they were to market that as a kit they could sell quite a few to people who are tired of looking at a plain dash or wanting to get rid of the cracked dash board that has been hurting the looks of an otherwise nice car. It may appear a bit gawdy, but it blends in well with the rest of the interior work. Now, if they had just left out the V-8 and put their talents into an L-series engine, think of what they might have come up with.

Personally I think I would go for the N-42. E-88 has smaller valves than the N-42 and N-47. I've heard stories about the heads with the exhaust liners deteriorating over time. Just a thought you might want to research before you buy anything. You will probably find the N-42 much easier to find than the N-47 as I believe the N-42 was used for a longer period of time. Look on the Datsun Garage web-site for a good explanation of the pro's and con's for each particular head.

Not only that, but no one on the track has ever been seen using a cell phone, lap-top, PDA, shaving, putting on make-up, or any number of things that distract the typical driver in the street. Everyone on the track is concentrating on one thing. DRIVING!

If you have bypassed the water going to the intake it is not needed. However, if you have water going to your intake you definately should have it. It cuts off the water supply at a certain temp, and without it, you may be putting too much heat in the intake and it may cause you to vapor lock. I personally would rather not have any water at all, it will take a little longer to warm up but the cooler the intake charge the better the engine will run. You can plug off the water with a simple blind rivet in the line where it connects to the water control valve at the back of the intake or do away with them altogether. Are you positive it doesn't have it? It is the "nipple" that the hard line connects to at the back of the intake. About an inch or so long.

It is cable driven off the right side of the transmission. Could be the cable has broken, the drive gear has sheered off the pin, or maybe the cable has just slipped enough in the housing that it is no longer in the speedo drive. Check the cable at the transmission first, make sure the drive gear is still OK, if it won't turn, it has not sheered the pin off. Check the teeth on the drive gear. If that is OK, try to turn the cable itself to see if it is still engaged in the back of the speedometer. You can still get new cables and drive gears, a bit pricey on the cable, but it's better than driving around without a speedo and cheaper than a speeding ticket. MSA has them and probably a few of the better Z suppliers have them as well.

You have to admire his ingenuity and the work that did go into all the handmade pieces. I kinda like the interior work, I do find the underhood chrome a little to the extreme though. At least it's a later 280 so there are plenty more to go around. Wish I had the talent and time to do all the handmade stuff and have it come out looking as good as this.

I guess I should have re-checked my typing, it didn't come out quite the way I had intended.

Yup, street racing is dumb. I did it when I was younger, got caught once, never did it again. Ever ran a motorcycle through someones front yard at 60mph avoiding someone backing out of their driveway? Ever clip a deer in a Z doing 60 on a narrow back road at night (think about looking under the deer and wondering how far up the hood it might go) while trying not to be run over by the other idiot behind you? Remember, no matter what you have, no matter how fast it is, someone, somewhere, has something even better.

Not only that, but chrome is not the ideal coating for a header any more than paint is. They will turn blue, pit and sooner or later they will rust just like a painted one. Only good coating for a header is Jet Hot or a similar coating. :cross-eye They are the only coating that will stand up to the heat for any lenght of time.

If it is shifting OK, I kinda doubt it would be the clutch. It may be worn out motor mounts are letting the motor shift and bind up the throttle linkage. Check out your throttle linkage carefully, and have someone rev it up and watch the motor and see if it is "rolling" over in the mounts or not. You might even try a little stiffer throttle spring just to make sure that isn't the problem.

According to HS30-H's research, the VIN number does not necessarily mean it was the 14,946th produced as they sometimes missed numbers and did not adhere to a strict policy of numbering them is sequence. It is a late Series 1 car so that does make it a bit more desirable to a collector. The automatic may even make it a bit more desirable form a collectors point of view as they did not import a large number of cars that year in total, and the automatics would have been a rather small number compared to later models. You can check on www.zhome.com for the production numbers for the 71 model year to see how many automatics were produced and imported. The engine number will also be on the fender tag on the passengers side strut tower. Check this with the number you find on the block to see if the engine is original. A pic would be great if possible. It would be a lot easier to identify your wheels if possible and also get a good idea of the general condition of the car since it has sat for a long period of time. I also have an 11/70 build date on mine, seems to be a lot of Novemeber cars still in existence.:classic:

Hey Carl, is Poop Boys the ones with the advertising slogan that says "Ricers love us, Real cars hate us"??