2ManyZs

If you are getting the bushings, you might be ahead of the game to go ahead and get a set of steering rack bushings while you are at it, if you haven't already. If you want, it might not be a bad idea to get the urethane bushings for the sway bar too. If you are going to do some, you may as well do them all while you have it apart. Hmm, perplexing problem. I guess the best thing to do is to try one thing at a time. Do the bushings, then we'll go from there with all the other alternatives. You might even find the problem while you are changing the bushings.:cheeky:

Have you tried the wheel and tire on another position? Try swapping it side to side on the front, or better yet, if the tires are all the same size, swap it to the back. If it stops the shake in the front, then it is in the wheel or possibly the tire. If the shake or bounce continues with another tire and wheel there, then it's down to a suspension problem. Even new tires have been known to be slightly out of round at times. Or else the wheel may be bent slightly. Try it and see what happens.

Wait for the Turbo PT Cruiser to make its debut, and then tell her it's the next best thing to a mini-van. Not that I'm partial to Mopars. If it ain't a Datsun, it better be a Dodge. That's my motto.

Lot of neat cars there. Hmm, that GT-2 car looks interesting, take parts from this wrecked IT car, got a set of triple Webers, just need a set of wheels. Hmmm......:cross-eye I like the ex-IMSA GTU 240 too........... too many cars, not enough garage...........

Wheel bounce? Steering wheel or the tire itself? Could be more than just bushings. Could be rack bushings, tie rod ends, strut cartridge bad, ball joints, tire out of balance, tire out of round, a whole myriad of things to check.

First thing you need to do is check the wheel cylinders and calipers for any leaks. Second, bleed the brakes, you may have contaminated fluid. If that doesn't help, you probably need a new master cylinder. While you are checking for any leaks, it would be wise to check your pads and shoes at the same time, make sure you have no mechanical problems, such as a seized e-brake cable that is not working the rear adjusters. It could be your rear brakes are so far out of adjustment they may be causing part of the problem. One way to check this is to pull up on the e-brake handle a couple clicks, if the brakes and brake pedal feel better, you need to check your rear shoes and/or re-adjust the rear brakes. Usually having to pump the brakes is because of air or water contaminated fluid. One of the above is more than likely the problem, just need to try one thing at a time to find out the cause.

Wheel bearings aren't tight enough, rotor warped or has excessive runout, piston hanging up in caliper, tire rub, wheel contacting ball joint, could be a lot of things. :tapemouth Guess it's a process of elimination to find the problem.

Well, hmm. Rebello claims 200-225 area with their IT legal L-28's. That is with only a 40 overbore, stock pistons, stock cam, balancing, blue-printing, and very minor porting and nearly stock FI. How much? 225-250 if it is done right, would be a bit dependant on which cam, carbs, and other bits you use. Would be nice to see just what it would do on a dyno. My choice would be with an E-31 with the later 280 valves for even more compression.

Well, using heat won't hurt the master if you are taking the lines off to replace the master cylinder in the first place. Just don't get over zealous with it. I think with a line wrench you may find you may not need it anyways. Heat is usually the last resort anyways.... or should be.....

You can't apply classic car values or status to a car that is going to be mass produced in numbers that will put Ferrari, Lamborghini, Aston Martin, and a few others TOTAL yearly production to shame. Nissan themselves didn't get to the 40,000 production mark with the 240Z until it was well into the second full year of production. The others achieve their status because of the low volume production numbers. The 350 is going to be produced in numbers of around 40,000 units in its first year of production. I seriously doubt if Ferrari, Lambo, Aston, Bently have sold 40,000 in the last 5 years, that is what makes them so special, exclusivity. The only thing this guy has done is paid 60 some thousand dollars more for number one than if he had bought number 2! And did he truly buy the very first 350? Nope, kinda doubt if it is really is the first one the way they describe it, it may have VIN number 0001 but in truth it is only the 1st one offered to the public. Perhaps if Nissan had only produced 2000 for the US as did Honda the first year of the S-2000 production, then he may have had something worth a lot more than the next one in line. But when you figure they already have over 7500 pre-orders and plan on a production run of 40K plus the first year? Nuttin special.

Phooey, forgot where you were when I answered. Hmm, have you looked on Ebay lately? I think I just saw a set of 280 panels on there. Looked at too many parts tonight. :cross-eye Have you tried MSA? They might be able to source them, seems the later ones should be much easier to find than the early 240 panels.

BTW, the line wrench will also come in handy when you find a stubbornly rusted bleeder screw. You will twist one off in a heart beat with a regular wrench, but using the line wrench 99 times out of 100 they will come loose. You apply pressure around the whole fitting instead of just on one side. Twisting a bleeder off can ruin your day very quickly, especially on the rear wheel cylinders. :tapemouth

NOS would work, but a 4.11 out of a scrap yard or parts car would be cheaper. Well, maybe..... then you would want.......:cross-eye

Classic Datsun Motorsports has them for $375 for the complete panel kit. Colors are also available. They are in California, they were one of the shops Nissan chose to do the restorations of the Z store cars. Here is the link: www.classicdatsun.com/new/panels.html

Just thought of one other place to check. If you have done any repairs to dash lights or anything like that, you might want to double check the wiring harness plug on the back of the tach. It might be loose or possibly has some corrosion. If I remember correctly the plug is one of the hard plastic plugs without the positive type locks that some of them have. I'd explore all the wiring possibilities before yanking the tach out to replace it. Might also be a good thing to double check your connections at the ballast resistor if you still have it. I believe they are all on a common ground. Just another random thought.

Cheapest thing to do would be to change to a lower rear gear to get your RPM's up faster, therefore getting the boost up a bit quicker. Full boost doesn't appear until a certain RPM, so the faster you can wind it up to that RPM, the quicker you are on the boost. Or possibly since it is an automatic, you might be able to try a higher stall converter. Not sure if there would be any available though. Only other way to do anything is with a different style turbo or wastegate. . Not cheap.

Well, I believe it runs directly off the + side of the coil. It may have a loose connection or a bad ground. Or the tach is just plain worn out, have you tried a different one by chance? One other thing you might check is the contact at the ignition fuse in the box. Doubt it would be the trouble, but with an electrical problem it never hurts to check the least obvious places too. Never taken one apart so I'm no help there.

Actually there are two choices of Z 5 speeds. One is the earlier model 280 5 speed up to 78 and the 79 and later ZX 5 speed. See the post in the tech articles about the differences in the gear ratios. Personally I prefer the original style 5 speeds over the T-5. Much easier shifting and they will hold to almost any engine except for maybe a V-8. My choice would be a 79 or later ZX 5speed with either a 4.11 or maybe a 4.37 rear gear, with the overdrive they have you should be able to go to a slightly lower rear gear than the 280Z 5 speed and still retain drivability on the highwy for cruising. I would try to stay away from the Roadster box, too costly when you consider all the parts that must be changed.

Yes, one reservoir feeds the fronts and one feeds the rear brakes. There is no cross-over, they are two separate circuits after the master cylinder. The master cylinder does only use one piston to control them both however. You have a proportioning valve that controls the amount of front/rear brake bias, more pressure to the front brakes because they are the ones that do the majority of the braking. When you are bleeding the brakes you can see that there is no cross over, when you bleed the rear brakes you only draw fluid from one reservoir.

I do hope you are using a 10mm line wrench. If you can't break it loose with that, well, the heat won't hurt it a bit. Just don't get too carried away with the torch. :cross-eye They do get a lot of rust and corrosion on the bottom of the master cylinders so you aren't the only one who has had a stubborn one. But, if you are not using a line wrench , get one, they are well worth the little extra that they cost. If you don't know what a line wrench is it is basically a box end wrench with a slot in it to allow you to slip it over the line and then down onto the flare nut. They will allow you to put a lot more pressure on the fitting without worrying about rounding it off. Round it off and you'll be very :disappoin :stupid:

You may still have some trapped air in the system. Try this before you give up and buy an new master cylinder. Fill both reservoirs and bleed the master cylinder first. Bleed off nearly a full reservoir out of both reservoirs. Re-fill the reservoirs and then bleed the wheel cylinder furthest from the master, the right rear. Re-fill the reservoir and then bleed the left rear. Re-fill the reservoir and cap it off. Now do the right front the same way, then the left front. Be careful while you are bleeding that you never let the reservoir get too low as you will pick up air and have to start all over again. Always try to have at least a 1/4 inch of fluid for the bottom if possible, or never let the master reservoir go below half full. It is possible to pick up air even if there is a tiny bit of fluid in the reservoir while you are pumping the brakes. I was taught you should do the wheel cylinder furthest from the master in that the fluid has the farthest to travel. Once you are sure all the air is out of that line, you move to the next furthest. Try it one more time and see if that helps, if not, then the master cylinder may be to a point that replacement is the best alternative. Always double check the bleeders before moving to the next wheel that they are completely tight, or else you will draw in air into the system. Then you are back to square one again. :disappoin

It sold today for the 15K asking price. :tapemouth Better to spend 15K on this early 240 than to buy the 280 advertised for 20K, don't ya think??

Obviously it was someone with more dollars than sense (cents?)!!:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid:

Sounds like you may have a bit of air in the system yet. Try re-bleeding it again. After you bleed it have someone step on the clutch pedal and look under the car to see if you are getting full travel out of the slave cylinder. You may have gotten a bit of air into the master cylinder somehow so make sure you bleed it completely. I would use at least two reservoirs full of fluid to make sure you have bled it completely. If that doesn't help, it may be time for a new master or slave cylinder. The noise you were hearing may have been the throw out bearing against the pressure plate. It may not have been releasing as it should if there is air in the system. BTW, there have been times I have let the slave cylinder bleed by only opening the bleeder slightly and letting gravity to it for me.

Sorry, just couldn't resist that one, been around one too many cattle farms when I was a kid. :tapemouth I think the sound of the small block motors has more to do with the displacement, firing order and exhaust pulses. Take a smaller displacement small block and it doesn't have the same sound. It's just the size of the engine that they did right for once. :stupid: