2ManyZs

He has them on Ebay right now. Item number 18489696078 $145 buy it now price. Better hurry!

I never used them on a street car, but I did on the race car. If you plan on autocrossing in the future it would be a good investment. Are they a necessity on the street? Maybe. It might stiffen up the chassis enough to affect the ride, then again it might not have any effect depending on your suspension set-up. If you are running a stock set-up, they probably won't help much at all, if you have modified the suspension, they probably would be a benefit. I guess it is all up to you, if you have something that is more important to spend your money on for the car now, I think they could wait a while. If you are really serious, the only strut bar that will make a definate and huge improvement in the chassis of a Z would be the one that was advertised here that ties into the frame rail and the firewall. Just tying the tops of the two towers together only limits the flex of the chassis in one plane, the towers may not flex, but what they are tied to might. Sorry, not much of a decisive answer, but hopefully you get the point of what I'm trying to say. :cross-eye

95% right Ed, the 260's with the small 240 type bumpers had the flat top carbs(not good) and the later 74 1/2 model with the 280 type bumpers had the Fuel Injection. They changed it in the middle of the 74 model year. About the cams, yes there are a few different cam specs to choose from. I would not go too radical if you plan on running the car on the street, you'll have vaccum problems. Go with a "middle of the road" cam grind for the street, you don't need the powerband in the upper rpm range on the street. Go with a cam that gives you good power in the 1500-5000 rpm range. You can find cams at a bunch of the Z engine suppliers, or Motorsport Auto has them. You can find many of these companies here on the site in the web-links section under Z car businesses. About your head, are you sure it isn't an E-31? There was no E-41 that I'm aware of. If it is an E-31 it will be a good head to use as it will give you a bit higher compression ratio. Search thru the forums here under Engines and you should be able to answer nearly all your questions from reading previous posts. If you have any other questions just post it in the forums and someone will be able to help you with nearly any question you may have.

It does look like a complete chassis, which is more than some people can say when they start tearing into their cars. That and a parts car to go with it might be just what someone is looking for. One thing about it, if you don't like the way the car looks, you can change it quite easily.:cross-eye Never know, there might be a treasure trove of good useable parts there. If the chassis is clean and fairly free of rust it would make an excellent project car for someone who doesn't already have a Z. It is quite possible someone could make out like a :bandit: with a basic chassis and a ton of parts to play with or re-sell to finance their toy habit. I'd much rather start with a car that looks like this than the one I have for parts in my backyard. My parts car hasn't looked as good as this one in probably ten years.

Too Intense Restorations has them, as well as Classic Datsun Motorsports ( they were part of the Z Store restorations a few years ago) as well as many other suppliers here in the US. These may be the closest to the originals however. If you look in our web-links area for Z car businesses, you should be able to find quite a few choices. Not sure about where you might find them "down under" but there are plenty of members here from your area that can help.

If any of you are interested, go to the Classic Datsun Motorsports web-site and look under Cars for Sale. The Silvia I saw on Ebay is now advertised there. This car has a little history to go along with it to make it more interesting.

If the fusible link did burn up, you might be wise to check for the cause of it before you try to re-start the car.You said the dome light blew? You may need to get yourself a new voltage regulator while you are at the parts store. Only 20 odd bucks, but might be good insurance.

You're right, all those girls would be more than I could handle at once. But one at a time would be no problem to a SINGLE man! :cross-eye

Pretty sure I saw this on another web-site. I'm fairly sure it's a Japanese model car, so the clear front lenses and mesh grill are probably stock. The Fairlady's all had the mesh grill and clear front signal lenses as did the 432's. Only thing that makes me wonder is the side mirrors, which would more than likely have been on the fenders. Hmm, maybe an import into Japan?

Before you change the mixture, check out your plugs. After running it for a while, try to shut if off without too much idling time to get a good reading on the plugs. It may be the paint on the header is what is causing them to turn the white-ish color, some header paints aren't what they claim to be and burn off easily. I've seen them anywhere from dark gray to brown to snow white the first 4-6 inches of the tubes, all because the so-called black header paint was garbage. If your plugs don't indicate a lean condition, you'll either have to live with it, or take the header back off, sandblast it, and try another header coating. No sense in jumping the gun and changing anything till you know for sure what is causing the problem. :cross-eye

If you mean the front air dam, it looks like a common urethane air dam, most any Z parts supplier has one like it. This one looks a little different in that most have brake cooling ducts, while this one is solid. Also available in fiberglass, but they don't stand up well to curbs as well as the urethane.

Personally, I don't want kids, but they better love my dog or they are history.:stupid: :cheeky: I'd "settle" for the one on the far right. You guys can fight over the "scraps".:cross-eye

They would have to supply a huge pile of cash and even more beautiful women to make me buy one. Call it an incentive!:devious: Let's see, with me in the pic you would have the Good(me), the Bad(hopefully at least one of the girls), and the Ugly. :stupid:

As far as mechanicals go, there won't be much difference at all. Transmission is a bit different (different shifter), slight variations in the carbs, manifolds and linkages, but for the most part they are alike enough to get by. Biggest difference would be in the electrical, many of the wiring harnesses are not compatible between the years, however the basic wiring should be quite similar. An FSM is better than some of the other manuals out there, so even if it isn't for the correct year, it's still better than a Chiltons manual!

Looks like Spiderman has been watching far too much of Richard Simmons doesn't it??? About those lights. It wasn't long ago when there were plenty of them to go around. You could buy them for about 69 each, now all of a sudden they are in excess of 250 each. Same goes for the clear front signal lenses, were 30 each, now reaching 75 each. Should have stocked up on a couple sets years ago huh??? Now when I want a set I don't want to spend the money. Goes without saying, hindsight is a PITA guys. Maybe someone someday will find a supplier that is willing to make them, until then it put out the cash or go home empty handed. It's like this with all the collectors cars, not just Z's. Why do you think their are so many people that go to Carlisle, PA to the shows with tractor trailers full of old used parts? Because someone is looking to pay a handsome fee to get what they need. It just took longer to hit the Z market, that's all.

Have you thought about Summit Racing? I think the Chevy style radiators will work without too much trouble. You may have to fab up or go to the local Napa store to find hoses with the right bends in them though. I think they are close to the same size, might want to look at HybridZ.com and see what some of those guys might be using in their V-8 conversions. Might find a few more opinions on what will work.

Well, the hood is definately from a 77-78 280. Air dam looks to be one of the common urethane dams you can get from most any Z parts supplier, but the turn signals are a custom piece, definately not the originals. Looks like 15 or 16 inch Panasports. Road lights look like driving light off a 4x4 or maybe they are off road lights to begin with(?).

:stupid: Darnit, forgot about that Silvia coupe. Here I was just looking at one on Ebay not too long ago and forgot all about it. Oh well, can't get them all right.

Depending on how serious you are about the tunes, how about just hooking the stock radio up to some good aftermarket speakers? The stock speakers left a lot to be desired. You could mount them in small boxes behind the seats or anywhere you wouldn't have to hack up the panels in the car. This would be the cheapest and easiest alternative for the time being, then if you decide you want to upgrade to a hidden system like the one posted (which I have heard a lot of good stories about) you already have better speakers already in the car.

How about a Roadster?