2ManyZs

It might be tape, if they are racing the car on the track, most sanctioning bodies require some sort of tape over the light lenses to prevent the shards of glass, or plastic from being spread all over the track. If it isn't, it does look pretty good on the headlight covers.

I'M SO CONFUSED!!:stupid: What car???:devious:

Jeez, looks like a great find. Looks pretty darn good after a bath! First thing is to do a complete mechanical check up. Don't worry about taking things apart until you know for sure what needs to be repaired an what can wait till the project is closer to completion. One thing I would do is a compression check to verify there are no internal problems. Next on the agenda would be a thorough check of the brake system, including bleeding the system. I would suggest checking to make sure you have no leaks, an have no stuck pistons, and the pads/shoes are useable. Second thing to do would be a complete tune-up of the engine. Plugs, wires, points, cap, condensor, possibly coil. I would at least spray a bit of carb cleaner in the carbs to make sure you have no bad gum deposits. If you haven't already you should also change the fuel filter and air filter. I would also suggest changing all the fluids, engine oil, filter, transmissions fluid and the rear diff lube. Start slow, don't rush into a big tear down, work on one problem area at a time and you will be much better off in the long run.

Usually the first place to look would be the master cylinder if you have a soft pedal after a thorough brake bleeding. While you are bleeding them, be sure to inspect all the lines for leaks. If you suspect a brake caliper, take the pads out and have someone very lightly depress the brke pedal to make sure both pistons are free. Be careful not to pop the pistons completely out. Just a very light pressure on the pedal is all you need since you have no resistance. ZMeFly, one thing you should check is your vacuum likes to the brake booster and the check valve. It sounds like you may have a slight vacuum leak that is causing the idle fluctuation. As far as the speedo goes, you either broke a cable, or it has slipped out of the lug in the back of the speedo. Take it loose at the tranny, use a small cordless drill attached to the end of the cable, and push it back up in the housing, then trun it with the drill and see if it works or not. If not, cable probably is busted.

If circumstances had allowed, I would have liked to have been there the whole day. Unfortunately, things didn't work out. But, even a few hours a show is better than none! Sorry I missed you zztom, I didn't know you were there until it was too late. Missed CoastGuardZ too. Maybe we can all get together at the National next year. Looking forward to it! I was glad to meet Jeremiah, Ken Lewis and Bad Dog. Now at least we can have a better idea of who were are chatting with next time we all get together in the chatroom. If you look in the background of the last pic, you'll see my "dog house". After we left Syracuse, we headed up to where I was raised in Massena, on the way there I couldn't avoid a 5 gallon pail of paint (white no less) that some $#&^$@#$(&@ dropped on the highway. I've spent the last two days trying to clean it off the truck and the "dog house: :mad: :tapemouth

If you are going to be racing in SCCA, make sure the cell has the right safety rating. I know a lot of the ones that Summit sells would not be legal in SCCA, they are OK for NHRA and such, but don't have the proper ratings for SCCA events.

Vent lines? Only two lines running to the engine compartment as far as I know. One fuel feed line, one return line. I ran the return line on the mine to a bulkhead fitting on the top of the fuel cell on the 280 I had. It was simple to drill a hole in the top fill plate and put on the bulkhead fitting, then I put a line on the bottom so the fuel would go to the bottom of the cell quicker. All the evaporative lines to the vapor canister got yanked out along with the canister itself. Only other lines I can think of you may be referring to might be the lines to the charcoal canister on the FI cars.

Ed, you just answered the question yourself. He may have 20 years experience on American engines, and know everything there is to know about them. What you need is someone that knows imports. Any competant import shop will be able to do this with no problem at all.

Ok, so maybe 1/8th is asking for a little too much. :cross-eye I've got other die-cast cars in 1/18, just would like to see more that are just a bit bigger. Maybe 1/12th or so. Something that really fills up a shelf, not looking like an overgrown Matchbox car. Especially if it had the detail work that some of the smaller 1/18 cars have by Kyosho. I'd gladly pay up around a hundred bucks for a model with some size and realistic detail. Not that the Kyosho models are overpriced for their size, I believe they are quite reasonable, it's just I want something that stands out from all the rest of the cars I have already, kind of a centerpiece if you will.

Had me confused, and I thought I knew dogs fairly well. The first pic I would have bet it was a Pit Bull, but yet in the second pic I was thinking Boxer. Must be because you didn't want to put the "model" in focus to break any hearts.

If you are sure the rear differential is stock, check to see which drive gear is in the transmission. If it is not the 16 tooth yellow drive gear you will need to change to that to make your speedo right. I am assuming the car came standard with an manual transmission, therefore it would have a 3.36 rear, if it were an automatic it would have a 3.54, since you are not sure what is in there you should check to see what ratio you have for sure. You can find posts here using the search function that will tell you what to do to find out the rear ratio without tearing apart the diff. As far as the speedo cable goes, you should be able to find one in the junkyard off a 240 with no problem or you might try to buy one form someone stripping a parts car. If you want a new one you can visit www.zcarparts.com, request a catalog or call them directly. I'm pretty sure Motorsport Auto will have a new cable, although you may want to look around before you spend the money for a new one.

Thanks, but I was hoping for a die cast model. My days of having the time and patience to build plastic models are long since past. Or perhaps I'm just getting lazy as I get older.:cross-eye I know Tamiya used to make some really beautiful model kits, haven't seen one in years. Seems that a lot of hobby stores don't carry plastic models since most people would rather play with train sets, and R/C cars and such. If I'm going to spend that much time building something, I better get my butt out in the garage and work on the real thing.:tapemouth

There were no 02 sensors on Z's until possibly the 84 300Zx. None of the inline sixes had them as far as I know. You didn't say but I am assuming you have the fuel injection on the car that came with the later engine? If you do it will be a little more difficult to change the air/fuel ratio than if it has carbs installed, but it can be done. It will be much simpler if you have carbs. The best thing to do is to get a Factory Service Manual that corresponds to your engine, it will give you the most info as far as what checks to do to work on the Fuel Injection. The only calibration for the gauges that may need to be done would be the speedometer. If it has a 5 speed from a later car, all you have to do is find out which rear diff ratio is in the car and use the appropriate speedometer drive gear in the transmission. They are all calibrated to a specific rear end ratio. You can find a list in the tech articles here.

I think you need to talk to another machinist. Unless there is some kind of damage that makes them unuseable, there is no reason he can't remove the pistons from the rods. If he is afraid of these, he probably is not the person you want doing the work. You can possibly balance both at the same time, but it is going to be a bit more difficult and time consuming for the machinist that is doing the work. I guess it would depend on whether they have a scale that will go high enough to give the weight of the combo instead of each piece individually.

I'd gladly pay the price for one in 1:8 scale form Kyosho. With their amount of detailing, it would have to be a terrific model. Wonder if we could gang up on them and twist their arm into building one.:devious: Probably not, but it sure would be nice to see a few cars in a larger scale that would be display case worthy. They all want to build the smaller scales since they are easier and cheaper to produce. I'd prefer to pay a premium price for something larger and with the greatest amount of detail possible. Or am I just being too picky?

Borrowing works good too. Since most shops and parts stores don't loan tools, only rent them, you got off lucky.

Well, if it came from Florida, this is more than likely what we had as a 74 1/2 model. It originally came with the big 280 style bumpers and fuel injection. Someone has taken the FI off and installed the carbs. Alfadog, we only got the 260 for one year in the States. First half of 74 was with the flat top carbs and small 240 style bumpers. Then the big bumpers and FI the second half of the year. Then they went to the 75 280 which was essentially the same. Something you folks "down under" didn't have to worry about since you had the 260 until the ZX's came out in 79.

Wonder if she has a twin sister that likes Z cars. I don't mean the dog either!! Better not let Mike see her, he may try to talk her into modeling the Club merchandise when he gets the store in operation. :cross-eye

Yup, if the injectors keep clogging up it has to be coming from somewhere, more than likely the tank either has some rust in it, or it has collected a lot of junk from bad gas over the years. I'd say it may be rust, if you pull the filter and find any sediment at all it would indicate rust is coming from the tank. You might be further ahead to go ahead and pull the tank if that is the case, that way you can replace any vent lines that may be needing replacement, fix the fuel gauge, and fix the car at the same time. If you do unhook the lines form the tank, be sure to blow them out good with compressed air to free any sediment that may be caught in the lines.

I saw one in there for 900 bucks in Williamsville, NY. Said no rust but needs work.

With carbs I would use a regulator to keep form over-pressurizing the float bowls and having problems with the carbs. Some electric pumps will put out too much pressure for some of the older carbs like SU's and even Webers. Not a bad idea IMO, just to be sure.

Being able to do the repair isn't the problem, it's getting it done properly in the first place. If it were my car, I'd take it somewhere that knows what they are doing. Don't take it somewhere that has never seen a Z or worked on older model cars. The person responsible for the damage should pay for every cent of the damage with no reservations, or else it's time to get nasty!:devious: Two little words will open a lot of checkbooks when you get rear ended like that, and I think you know which ones they are. :classic:

I guess the girl is smiling because after the puppy devoured the Big Mac, large fries and the hot apple pie she still has a hand to hold her drink? Hope the one in the car is the one you are sending to obedience school. If not, you are already in so much trouble you may as well just give it up and go yourself.:cross-eye

I agree, it sounds like you have a problem in the tank that is causing your injector fouling. I'd suggest trying to find the problem before you do any other work. Take a look at this: www.gastankrenu.com Or for a do-it-yourself kit try www.eastwoodcompany.com Unless you planning major modifications to your engine to support the triples, I think a big throat throttle body, free breathing air filter, and a good flowing exhaust will wake up the car nearly as much as a set of triples for a lot less money. You can also get high flow injectors to go along with them, but they end up being kinda expensive. You could try a set of injectors for a Turbo ZX for a little more flow, haven't heard of many people trying this, but it ought to work just fine. Besides, while people are having all sorts of problems with cold starts with carbs, most of the time you can just laugh at them when you just hit the key and drive away. One of the plusses of fuel injection.

Yup, it's well over 900 now. :stupid: I've been tinkering with Z's for about 20 years now, thought I knew quite a bit about them, until I found this site anyways. Still a lot of things to be learned form people who have experiences with parts of the cars that I have never explored. The best thing about having so many members is that sooner or later someone knows the answer to a question since they may have had the same experience with their car. :cheeky: