2ManyZs

Either that or someone finally sat down and thought about what they did this morning.... They'll probably get a few bids now...All the Z Store cars we've seen so far on Ebay have been selling for 18-20K, so maybe this time it will actually sell.

I just noticed this morning that it has been re-listed with a starting bid of 27.5K.... no bids on the previous listings with a starting bid of 25K and they raise the starting bid????:stupid: :stupid: :cross-eye

A few of the things will make the steering hard to turn are: Wider than stock tires Tire pressures too low Bad or improperly lubed ball joints Steering rack not properly lubed Bad or improperly lubed bearing on top of struts Steering rack bushings worn, resulting in rack movement before the tires turn. Bad u-joints in steering column Steering rack pinion too tight, results in binding of rack and pinion That's not all, but those are the main causes....

Well, I found two and they both have the 6 wire plug.... One of them I know for sure came from a 72.......not sure what year car the other one came form, so if you need a 4 wire plug, I can't help ya. Sorry.

I guess the biggest question is where the neutral safety switch is. Is it on the old auto shift linkage or is it somewhere "invisible"..... It ought to be just a simple two wire switch that you could just unhook the wires and connect the two of them together to bypass the switch....

Well, I was thinking the same thing Stephen, but then the reply would have rambled on into the diff mount, mustache bar bushings, etc.. etc... etc.....being the cause of the noise.:cross-eye

Glad we helped you find the problem Holly. I'd much rather deal with cantankerous U-joints anyday than trying to find an electrical problem, especially on a 280....:cross-eye

Are you thinking about Dennis Weaver in "Duel", oh green one? Driving a Valiant thru the desert and gets chased by an old Peterbilt pulling a tanker?

I've probably got one or two in the shop, just might take me a while to find which box they are in...

Looks OK to me, and the price is about what I'd call average for a mechanical pump, anything less and I'd start to wonder about the quality of the pump. Looks to be a stock aftermarket replacement.

Mechanical pump is an easy job, couple hose clamps, couple bolts, gasket and that's all there is to it. A leaky pump diaphram could cause quite a few things, including putting air bubbles in the fuel, which could cause erratic idle and even vapor lock type symptoms. "Dieseling" can be caused by a few things, one of them is a bad vacuum leak. Another of the usual suspects is too fast an idle speed (even as little as 100 RPM's over the "standard" of 750-800)and last but not least, timing that is too far advanced. Of course, excessive carbon buildup in the cylinders or on the piston crowns can do it also. Those are the usual causes, there are more but usually they are a combination of things.

Check with Chloe at http://www.midwestz.com/ If you want to spend the money, she's got new ones for 145, or 115 for the 73 panel that is backlit. She may have used controls for the heater control too. She's got the knobs and heater control knobs too....

For the same price, I'll take the driveable car that might need minor work....It could take almost your initial investment in the car just to get the chassis to where it would support the weight of the rebuilt engine, plus, you might have to buy another parts car to "donate" it's roof to the cause. With the condition that roof is in, and not knowing how long that car may have sat out in the weather like that, the chassis could end up looking like your yellow car Kevin, and we all know what happened with that one don't we?:devious:

This POS has a 2500 starting bid, and the car is listed right below it with a 2500 Buy It Now, wonder which one will sell first... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2469632865&category=6187 Man, some people make you wonder about the gene pool huh?

If they've got the same part number, I guess that shoots that idea out the window...... I'd be looking at the tumbler portion of the switch, ignition relay in the engine compartment on the bracket in front of the battery, fuel pump relay( think that's on the kick panel under the glove box) and even the fusible links under the hood as the next possible causes.

Hmm, good question..... It should only have one unless a PO put it there for some unknown reason. Maybe they were having trouble and thought two was better than one? Never know what a previous owner was thinking when they do some of the things they do to a car....... Actually the 73's didn't have an electric pump at the rear when they were sold until the recall for the vapor lock/driveability troubles, at which time Nissan recalled them and put a kit on them. The kit consisted of the electric fuel pump, 7 bladed engine fan, and the insulation for the fuel line, and maybe one other thing that I can't remember......

Engine bay looks to have been painted with a brush and the paint is falling off, I think that's why it looks like it burned. But that roof and hatch is what would scare me away.... what a POS that is. If the roof and hatch have rusted through like that, what's the underside look like??:cross-eye :sick: He'd be lucky to sell that for more than 500 bucks....I'd be afraid to twist the chassis putting it on a trailer with a roof that looks like that, car is liable to end up bent in a V.....

Try sending a PM to pparaska here, he's a member here and one of the moderators over there. Might be something with their new server causing problems. Funny you can't contact them over there though......

And, if your 280 doesn't have the oil pressure cut off switch, since the switch you used was for a 79, that may the whole problem in itself. For what it's worth, mixing the different years is never a good idea with electrical parts, there are so many different variations of connectors and shared systems in the electrical system that it usually won't work. It becomes even worse with the fuel injected cars.

My question would be if you replaced the electrical part of the switch with a brand new piece or a used one? Does everything else go off along with the fuel pump when you put it in the ON or Start position? If it's just the fuel pump that goes off, it could possibly be the fuel pump relay on the kick panel that is bad. If the switch you used wasn't new, it may have the same problem the one you replaced had. MidwestZ has both parts of the switch available brand new, although, the complete switch is a bit pricey.

Hmm, MSA has the Panasports in 15x7 for 219.95 each..... and you can get them cheaper (maybe 20 each or so) if you shop around. I think Dave Turner Motorsports has some of the best prices on Pana's. www.daveturner.com

I've often wondered if the bidders I was bidding against were members here, or if the sellers were members...... I guess it's better to lose to one of our members than members of those "other" Z sites isn't it?:devious:

If you decide not to use the fiberglass fenders, can I get first dibs on them Jeremiah?:devious: I'll trade you a 74 and a 76 parts car for them.... Of course, you'll have to come and get them....

The R-200 diff should hold up to an LS1 without too much trouble. But, if you want info on the Vetter swap or something like that, you're better off with the people who have done it over on www.hybridz.org

or just in case you forget they are fiberglass and lean on them too hard.... or just in case you want to sell the car to finance a roadster project and the buyer wants the originals.... or......:cross-eye