2ManyZs

Just as a side note, my ITS 280 with 14x7 zero offset wheels and 225/60's measure about 65 1/2 inches to the outside of the tires, so you will be close. My trailer has 78 inches between the fenders(old homemade trailer) so I never had a problem there, but it was close on the inside width between the rails.

Most people have reported having to slam their doors after replacing the door seals. The old seals were worn out, someone may have re-adjusted the door at one time or another and with the added thickness of having new seals it may not let the door latch properly. Try adjusting the striker plate on the door jamb. It may take a while for the new seals to "seat" or conform to the door opening. It's possible it may take a couple adjustments to get it right, and may have to be done again after you have used the car for a while.

Timberwolf, I had the twice pipes on my first car. Yes, they sounded good, that is, until the glass packs burned out. Then it drove me and the neighbors nuts! In a very short time you will have nothing more than a straight exhaust. I hope you can deal with it better than I did. I hate to rain on anyones parade, but let me know how you like it after about a month or two.

My 280 IT car is approx. 56 inches measured at the center of the tires. 240 should be the same but the tire width will differ. I could measure the distance between the rail of my trailer, but it will have to wait till daylight. Or do you want the overall width?

Don't forget to clean and lube the "bellcrank" on the firewall. This has been one of the places I have had the most trouble with sticking linkages, it comes off very easily. Just pop off the linkages and then remove the snap ring on top, and pull it up off the pivot. Clean it up and grease it like the rest of the linkage. I have found all sorts of junk and even some rust on there in different cars.

Yes, more compression will give you more hp. How much will depend on the displacement increase along with the compression increase. IMO a compression ratio of 10.5:1 would be about the max on todays pump gas, even at that you would need to use the highest octane available to ensure that you won't get any detonation. Most high performance cars today run about 10:1 to 10.5:1 but as you know the ignition systems in those cars make a Z look pretty archaic. You would probably need to upgrade your ignition system as well. At the very least you would need to upgrade to a hotter coil, with some of the better plug wires. The E-31 head is one of the better heads that came on an L series engine, but they will not breathe as well as some of the later heads since they and the E-88 have smaller valves. Luckily you can swap in the larger 280 valves easily, most any machine shop should be able to do it for a minimal cost.

Check all the wires between the coil and the distributor. Check for loose connections and any corrosion. But since you say you left the ignition on and killed the battery you might want to check the condition of the points while you are in there, they may be pitted or burned up. Post an update and we'll try to get a few more opinions to get you going again.

Well, ya got me. The closest thing I can think of would be the old Western Turbine wheels or maybe another brands copy of the same design. Now that I think about it could it be she was referring to Keystone wheels? I think they were bought out years ago, so that would make them no longer available. I have a set that are similar except mine have more spokes. I believe mine are by Western wheels. I'm not even sure if Western is still in business or maybe they got bought out by someone else too.

The two main causes for "dieseling" are idle speed set too high and timing that is too far advanced. Since you say the timing is set according to factory spec we can assume that isn't the problem. You did not say however, what your idle speed is. It should be between 700 and 800 rpm with the accepted 750 as the norm. The gas issue shouldn't be a major cause as the timing also plays a factor in that. That is the main reason I suggested it is an electrical problem associated with a worn out ignition switch. It is possible the switch is shorting out the contacts and it could be only giving partial voltage to the ignition, thereby giving you the sensation of "dieseling". With all the new parts you have installed if it isn't the idle speed it could certainly point to the ignition. Let us know if you find the problem, or if you need more options we will be glad to come up with some.

Besides Extend, you could use POR-15, or Eastwoods has a couple products you could use. I think about all you have to do is remove the loose rust scaling before you apply it. Either by wire brush, sandpaper, Scotchbrite pads or however is easier in the area you are working on.

Mike, I'm not sure where you mean. The only part of the headlight bucket I can think of that is seen when the hood is open would be the flange that it bolts to the inner fender. Got a pic?? If it's not in the flange where the mounting bolts are it would be likely on the inner fender (where the hood hinges are mounted). The headlight bucket deosn't have but 2 flanges, one where it mounts to the fender, and one where it bolts under the hood in front of the radiator support. If it's not there it's either the inner fender or the front of the fender where the headlight unit itself is mounted.

I'd like to add one more thing about Bryans reference to a Camaro radiator. I think that it is possible to use an aftermarket Chevy style radiator since the Chevys have the inlet and outlet on the correct sides. All you would need to do is measure the size of the core you need and perhaps tinker a little with the mounting points a little. You might need some different hoses to hook them up but you should be able to find the right hoses at most auto parts stores. I had always planned on using an aluminum radiator in my IT car but just never got around to it. The Chevy style is the only one that has the inlet/outlet on the correct sides if I'm not mistaken. Most radiators for a Chevy will be cheaper than one built specifically for a Z. In fact I think you can get an aluminum one for a Chevy for about the same price as one of MSA's Z-car radiators. Just a thought.

I think I know which one you are talking about and I'm quite sure you can get it from Motorsport Auto, and likely from Victoria British also.

I must be losing my mind because if my memory is correct, my 73 had one piece belts and retractors. I thought it was only the early cars that had no retractors and the removable shoulder belt. :eek:

Well, it worked on one other car so I'll suggest this again. Check your ignition switch. If the car is continuing to run at a somewhat normal idle it is possible the ignition switch is worn out and is not cutting off the current to the ignition. Since you seem to have covered most of the other causes this is a distindt possibility. Hope it works.....If it doesn't let us know and we'll try to come up with some other ideas. Oops, it worked on two cars that I know of. My first Z and one since I joined here.

That should work too. As long as you try not to hit the end of the stud you shouldn't have too much trouble. Once they pop loose you can take them out with your fingers, they just get rusted into the splines.

You should try to use a brass drift or a punch. The last thing you want to do is "mushroom" the end of the stud and have it get wedged into the hub. I have seen some people use a large 2 leg puller to pop them loose, but if the old hammer and punch works go with that.

A 280 radiator will work in a 240 without any problems, but, it is a little larger. The bottom tank will hang below the radiator support , although if I remember right it bolts right in. I believe the core is a little taller than the 240 core. If I remember right it hangs about 2 inches lower( I did this to my first car, almost 20 years ago) so my memory might be a little off. But I do agree with Daniel, a little more money spent now will probably save you twice as much later. MSA sells a three row radiator or a four row core. The four row is expensive, but the three row core would probably be all you need on the street if your fan, water pump, and all the rest of the cooling system are in good shape. One thing that is often overlooked is the fan shroud, if you don't have one you should get one. It will increase the fans efficiency ten-fold to draw air through the radiator.

Maybe if you could sneak a picture of them we might be able to tell you what they might be. I have no idea what she is talking about. Are you sure she didn't say "stolen" wheels?? If it's that eaten up with rust it sounds like it's probably going to be a parts car anyway, so maybe 500 isn't too much if it has a lot of original parts that are salvageable.

I believe they would have to be the round tops, either 3 or 4 screw. I don't think ZTherapy wants anything to do with the later flat top carbs. They only work on the "good ones". I don't think they want the flat tops for cores if I remember right.

That's a possibility, but usually the problems are in the plastic sockets where the linkage can be taken apart. A lot of times it is just accumulated grit and grime that causes the problems. It's a good idea to lube them and take apart the bell crank assembly where the linkage comes out of the firewall and lube the post on that. It comes apart real easy, just remove the snap ring and pop off the rods and lift it off.

Stupid answer of the week. I dunno. If you have an early series 1 I believe the shoulder harness is made so that you can seperate it from the lap belt. I'd have to go look at mine to remember how they latch together. Which style do you have?

See the thread entitled There are no stupid questions for the discussion on that subject.

I don't know what the T-5 has for drive pinions, I was only speaking about the OEM Nissan units. Here's the list for anyone who wants to know. The drive gear must be used for the rear end ratio in the car, that will be the only way to re-calibrate the speedometer. This works for the 4 and the 5 speeds I believe. 3:36- Yellow, 16 tooth 3:54- Black, 17 tooth 3:70- Blue, 18 tooth 3:90- White, 19 tooth 4:11- Red, 20 tooth 4:38, Purple, 21 tooth This is the list from the Z Garage web-site.

You have everything you need except the transmission, so the can of worms can be left for something else. 77 and up came with the 5 speed so the only thing you have to do is find the trans. You already have the 3:54 rear which will serve you better than a 3:36 with the 5 speed. Best places to look for one would be here in the classifieds, or if you have a junkyard nearby give them a call and see if they have a 5 speed for a 77-78 280Z or a 79-83 nonturbo 280ZX. At one time you could buy reman. units from some of the Z suppliers but I don't think they carry them now. Maybe the local auto parts stores do, you might want to check. Another good place to look would be www.zparts.com or perhaps Arizona Z car. They are out there, just finding one is the hardest part. BTW, try to stay away from the T-5 from the ZX Turbo, with this one there may be some modifications necessary, but since I've never used one I don't know for sure. You will need to check to make sure it has the black speedometer drive pinion for the 3:54 rear to re-calibrate your speedometer.