2ManyZs

Mike, I tried to e-mail you a picture of my ITS car but couldn't. I have a set of American Racing Type 23 14x7's on it. They are relatively cheap (you can get them most anywhere) and they look pretty good on a Z. Have you ever seen the Z Racing (yes, that is the brand name) wheels sold at Sears? They have one that looks quite a bit like the AR's I have, and the neat part is they have a big Z on the center cap. New they run 100 each or less. Just a thought. I believe you can get the Americans like mine from Summit Racing or any one who sells American Racing wheels. BTW they have zero offset, so you can fit 205/50's without rubbing.

Any four speed should work, the only difference is the shifter linkage. The B model transmission is a little better (stronger), the shifter linkage was changed in about 72 to the B model. One difference is the gear ratio between the 240 B model and the 280 B model. I'd have to look it up but I can give you the gear ratios if you like. The 5 speed would require a little work if you want to go with that. You would need the 280 driveshaft and you would have to change the yoke on the rear.

I see no reason why it wouldn't be a good choice, although I have not seen one done in a Z-car yet. I'm not sure why though. I would be interested in finding out if anyone has done it and what it takes to do the swap.

Sonic, If you have air bubbles in the fuel filter you may have a problem with your electric fuel pump, of course I'm assuming since yours is a 73 that you do have one. All the 73's were recalled to have one installed so yours should have one. Have someone check the output pressure on it with a fuel pressure gauge to start with. I don't remember exactly but I think it should be around 8 pounds. I don't have a service manual here for a 73 so I can't be sure, maybe someone else has one and they can post it for sure. You might also do a visual inspection of the fuel lines to see if the are crimped anywhere, the metal line under car may have been hit at one time or another. As far as the sputtering under load, is your timing set correctly and is your vacuum advance working right? These would be two of the places I would look first. Of course there are quite a few other things that could be causing it but if these don't help cure the problem then you can at least rule out two things, by then there should be quite a few more postings with more things to check.

Now that's a tough one, I haven't seen one of those in years. I remember seeing them on a couple cars a long time ago. If I remember they may have been a dealer installed piece. As far as where to look for one, try Motorsport and just for the heck of it try Impact parts. Impact has in the past found me things no one else had, they have kinda gotten away from the Datsun only business but they may know where to look. I have an old catalog of theirs here somewhere, I'll try to find it if you don't know how to get in touch with them. Other than that you may need a lot of luck finding one.

I had mine plugged off for as long as I owned my 73, the only thing was I had to run with the chokes on a little longer in cold weather. One of the "big" things now days is cold air intakes right? Well it makes sense not to heat the intake with warm or hot water, it just heats the air going to the engine too. Z cars were notoriously cold blooded and only got worse with the added smog equipment so this is one of the main reasons it is there. Try blocking it off and see what happens. It can't hurt, but it may help.

Well, this one is beyond me. It is a shame there is no one with the resources like Galen Govier has with Mopar, to have factory build notes and the like on Datsuns. This one would be the kind of thing that would make their life interesting. I hope someone like Carl Beck can figure this out, because I don't have a clue now. P.S. Yes, it's possible to have 2 many Z's. I built a two car garage for the two I had then bought two more cars, guess I'll have to add some more space to the garage.

In case of the worst, yes the tanks should interchange. I believe the tank will interchange with any Z up to a 280z but not the 77 or 78 models. Anything up to 76 should work. But since it only leaks when it is over half full it will probably be either a vent hose or filler hose. Be sure to check them all carefully, if you have to change one you may need to change the others as they all get hard and brittle. The worst thing that can happen is the long one that goes to the drivers side rear of tank will leak sometimes onto the exhaust or close to it, this happened to me as I filled up once, it is not something I want to have happen again.You can change all of the hose without dropping the tank out all the way, just loosed the straps and let it down as far as you can without taking the straps loose but be sure to have the tank as close to empty as possible, or use the drain and drain it completely.

Do you still have water running to the carbs? It is possible that while sitting still it is trying to vapor lock, sometimes the water control valve will keep water going to the carbs after the engine is up to temp and will overheat the intake. If you still have the crossover line hooked up to the intake try blocking it off and see what it does. If you put the early carbs on the original intake you probably still have it hooked up. I'd also check your fuel pump and filter while you are under the hood along with what everyone else has said.

In my case and evidently in his the switch contact were worn, the barrel of the switch gets worn out, and what happened is it wasn't cutting off the ignition currant. It was as if the key was still in the run position. When you are dealing with cars as old as these weird things are bound to happen, at least they are still simple enough for most anyone to fix, sometimes it just takes a little time to find the cause.

I used to get that too, that's one of the reasons I didn't marry her!! Also got it from my father when I started building an ITS car in the back yard in 89, but he sure did go to every race when I got through with drivers schools.

What they mean by the tool sorage being moved to the deck pockets is this, if you have carpet that is split for the deck, and you pick it up and find two doors in the deck. They are small cubby holes in what was empty space on the series 1 cars. There is one thing I didn't see in Carl's list, and that is the gas door being one that has a latch on the series 1's while the series 2's don't! Please be sure to check out your Vin numbers carefully, we may find the solution yet.

That HAD to hurt!!!!

Mike, if you want to look at girls I'd bet we could tell you about some web-sites ( yes, free ones). You could do like I did and by their calender, and when the year is over cut of the pictures you like the best and frame them. I got one of the calenders before the magazine changed hands, ( yeah, I lost my $20 subscription renewal too) and have a couple of the nicest Z's framed in my room. IMO let's let them stay the way they are, just keep them in business!! Not like that last one! We can worry about cheesecake later!

You know, I just re-read RandyC's posts and got to thinking maybe we are looking at this the wrong way. It is possible he has a series 1 that has a series 2 quarter that was put on by mistake. He has too many similarities to a series 1 for it to be the other way around. So, first thing is for you to confirm your Vin numbers. Check the one above the brake booster first, this will be the one that is darn near impossible to change. If I'm right it will not match the one on the door frame that says you have a 4/71 build date. It could be that the left rear was damaged and for whatever reason the wrong plate was put on the car after it was done. If all the vin#'s match we are back to square one again. Check the dash plate, the one on the right strut tower under the hood, the one on the firewall and see if they match the one on the door frame. The one on the door frame is the only one that gives the build date. As far as how to fix it if it is a series 1, ouch, that's going to take some work. As far as I know the complete rear quarters are not available any more unless someone knows where you can get a new one, if not it's time to go hunting the junkyards. By the way the tool boxes behind the seats aren't really boxes. They are a cover for the tools that mount to the bulkhead more or less, not a true box. When you said you don't have the tool compartments and lids in the floor that is what got me thinking we were looking at this the wrong way.

Well, he could try I suppose. But he doesn't know who he's up against, or how many of us will be watching!!!!!

Glad someone thought to do that, it never crossed my mind. Sadly someone probably got taken on it. I hope the seller gets what he deserves, and finds it difficult to pass off another fake! I guess that is one of the reasons I only look to see what is being offered on ebay, I don't think I am trusting enough to bid on something on the other side of the country without being able to look at it closely. Perhaps ebay should put a banner on their site that says Caveat Emptor!!!!

Well, all I can say is there must be a very intersesting story as to how your car could have ended up with 2 different quarter panels. If you ever find out how let us hear "the rest of the story"! I do know this, if it is in good shape it sounds like it is worth keeping quite a bit longer, it sure is a bit of a mystery. Yes, the tool storage boxes were behind the seats on the series 1 cars only, I have a series 2 (rusted out and only good for parts) that has them in the floor. I'm not sure of it's build date. If I had a digital camera I would post pictures of the ones in my series 1 which are in excellent shape. Santa didn't bring me the camera only a scanner so by the time I get the pictures developed someone else will have them posted. To Kmack, I have a friend here that has a series 1 with an 11/70 build date. His Vin is 1028 less than mine. So by that his was built in early November and mine came a couple weeks later. So between late November and January that's roughly 3,000 cars. It's ironic that he and I have been friends for 20 odd years and we both end up with series 1 cars with Vin's so close. If it weren't for him I probably never would have gotten interested in Z's. Plus the fact he and I raced together (with each others cars,long story). He bought his brand new and I got mine from my doctor here in town after he owned it for 6 years and put about 1500 miles on it.

For joe71, yours is a series 1. Motorsport also has the new vent grills for the hatch as well as the c-pillars emblems. About the only ones you may find difficult to find are the Datsun emblems for the lower front fenders and hatch as well as the 240z hatch emblem. Motorsport can get them but they were unavailable last time I talked to them, they may have them by now.

I just have to put in my two cents worth. I love the chassis and running gear, if only they would leave the body off! It draws so many similarities to so many other brands that Nissan is made to look like it has no design studio. Don't they have one in California? The home to probably thousands of REAL Z-CARS?? In my opinion this is going to be a huge disaster. They should have hired the team that designed the S2000, and let them have free reign on the design. Personally it offends me they use any reference to the Z car. This car has no resemblance whatsoever to a REAL Z-car!! If they had gone to a more retro look with the underpinnings this car has they would have had a winner. I will be waiting for one to get totalled so that I might try to get the chassis parts under a REAL Z then rub Nissans nose into what they could have, or should have built! By real Z I mean a body older than 78. Somewhere there must be one person designing most of the new cars today. They all look so much alike that it's hard to believe that more than one person would have such an abstract idea of what a car should look like. Must be some of those leftover party "favors" from the 70's and 80's are having their influence on another generation!!

I would not be surprised if this car was a Series 2 car that got rear ended not long after being sold. It is quite possible the hatch and quarter panel were replaced with Series 1 parts that a dealer had on hand. Back then a dealer would have had to stock parts for both series and someone mistakenly put the wrong ones on it or maybe the owner didn't want to wait for the right ones to be shipped to the shop that was making the repairs. The are some small differences in the center console which could tell more of the story, if the defogger switch is behind the shifter and the cigarette lighter is the only thing on the fuse box cover it could be a series 1. There is also a difference in the 4 way flasher switch on the dash. Just curious,which way does the defogger grid in the hatch run? Vertical or horizontal? Kmack, I'm surprised to find out they made any series 1 cars after December 70, everything I have ever read indicated that a January car would have been a series 2. Possibly yours was one of the first off the line after New Years. I have an 11/70 series 1 vin#15749, yours must be about 20,000 or so isn't it?

Geez, you answer quick, I was off putting my two cents in on another thread. The anti-backfire valve is one of them, there are two others near the fuel rail. I didn't realize that Z-Therapy put them in their kits. Well, you answered my question, now all I have to do is make up my mind which way to go with the car. Right now I have one too many, but I'm hoping the guy will come to pick it up by the end of the month. Then I'll be down to a more manageable number, I'm kicking myself for not building a bigger garage!

I'm not sure if I still have it or not, but somewhere along the line I got one from a dealers old stock. It was never used, and I believe it was still in the original box. It isn't for sale, that is if I still have it. I'll have to dig around in my shop to see if it is still there even. IMO if the one on ebay doesn't go over $100 it would be worth it, the seller is right they are rare! If it is in good condition it would be well worth the price even if you didn't plan on using it.

I was talking about the ones on the intake crossover, and going to the distributor. I can't think of their correct names, I usually call them junk since I usually toss them when I de-smog the cars. I wasn't sure if they were new, re-plated or what. They look like they have a gold cad plating on them, but I've never seen them shine like yours. If they came Z-therapy I guess I know where I'll be getting my carbs and intake done, now if I can just find enough old ones lying around........... I've been thinking about putting my numbers matching engine in storage and using an IT motor I have so if I decide to do that I guess I'll use the triple webers I have and keep all my early SU's.

Second ignition switch?? Sounds like someone put it in there as an anti-theft device, which may be one of the reasons the wiring burned up in the first place. You might have him try to take it out, and double check the wiring as someone may have made a mess with undersizes wires etc. In my opinion, take it out, as someone may have done a hack job on the wiring, then you will be able to figure out if there may be another problem. The fuel pump should come on when the switch is turned on, it obviously has had an electric fuel pump put on at one time or the other. Datsun put one on the 73's as a recall to cure the vapor lock problems they had, or someone may have put it on just because they wanted it. Some people wire the pump to a seperate switch, but if they used the harness that was in the 73 and later cars I believe it should come on with the switch. The relay you hear should be on the kick panel on the passengers side near the foot vent. There should be more than one on a panel tucked up next to the underside of the glove compartment. It would be hard to say what it is for without knowing which one it is.