2ManyZs

I don't know if it will help with your problem Gene, but I finally found this link buried in the forums.... been looking for it for a while since I forgot to save it. :stupid: http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/

Ed, PM me your mailing address. I'm sure I've got some extra ones in a jar in the shop, just have to find them... I've also got a couple sets of spare old struts that still have them too, so I know I've got at least 2.

Here's a place in the US that makes a nice box, and gives you a good idea of the dimensions you would need, although the price of this one is pretty high, you could probably make one out of aluminum for a lot less if you have the tools. http://www.twminduction.com/airbox.htm

Shame they didn't bring it to the Northeast Z Adventure show in Syracuse last month, it would have won the Stock 240 class with no problem... Or if they did I sure missed it. Clinton isn't much over an hour away from Syracuse... East coast car that clean and pretty much in unmolested shape, it ought to bring a pretty good price since there are so few on the east coast that haven't suffered the dreaded "metal maggots".....

Ok, missed one, the rear finisher panel has been painted and they painted the chrome trim around the taillights (you can see where it has flaked off on the right side)... almost looks like they at least tried to put it back to the original color although it's hard to tell just what shade it is, but it looks a little too black.

I only see two small items that look out of place on a car as close to original as this one...other than the black crap under the hood. The wiper arms(black) and the master cylinder caps definately aren't right. I'd bet there's a lot of people right now wanting those original braided hoses... The bumpers look like they are awfully close to the body, in fact, the rear one looks like it's touching in places.

Yes, it is the "whole enchilada". FWIW, they are for a later 240 that has the bow in the rail just behind the radiator support. That and the mounting bolt welded to the upper welding flange just behind the bow in the rail is the only difference between the early and later rails. The only thing you'd have to do to put this in an earlier car is to cut off the end and section it into the original rail about half way between the rad support and the sway bar mounts. I quit listing them on Ebay temporarily since I was getting no bids, and everyone wanted to know if I had a LH rail too, which at this time I'm still searching for. I'll probably list another one in the next week or so.

I just sent an e-mail to the Ebay address asking where the parts I paid for are and that the customer service was disappointing to say the least. If I don't get any response within the week, I guess I'm gonna have to file a complaint with Paypal so I can get what I paid for. I don't know who or what is in control out there, but I'd say they don't deserve to have a banner ad on this site or any other at this time. I know they have at least one customer who won't be sending them any more money.

Sounds like either brake adjustment, or a brake drum that may need to be turned to return it to true.

The M/C is plenty big enough for the 4 piston calipers. Sounds to me like you have air trapped in the system somewhere, probably in the M/C. If the pedal comes up on the second pump, it's air 99.9% of the time. One other thing to check while you're at it is the pedal pivot, check to see if it has become oval shaped where the clevis pin mounts into the brake pedal assy. If it has a lot of play, you'll lose pedal travel and that can make a small problem even worse.

Only way to change it without an adjustable bias control is to try using a more aggressive rear compound pad/shoe. If you look at Hawk's web-site, you'll see that what I mean. Many people use different compounds front to rear whether or not they have upgraded the brakes or still are running the stock ones. http://www.hawkperformance.com/ For instance, many racers use Black in front/ blue's in rear (or another combo depending on the car) even with an adjustable bias control just to help modulate the brakes better.

If this is the one you are referring to, it's a 71 not a 73. Just look at the VIN number, probably a 12/70 production date if I'm not mistaken. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2487690891&category=6187

The list (taken from an early issue of ZCar magazine) I posted in that previous thread had a couple that weren't correct. Specifically the non turbo 200SX's... They do have a 4:11 R180, but, like the later R200's you need to use the later style output shafts that are held in with the snap ring and not the early style bolt in. Here's a more complete list...this one breaks it down much better during the either/or years when both diffs were used in the same chassis. http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html

I was just picking on ya Mike.. you'd be surprised how many nice cars don't have the door bumper. I saw a couple at the show with plain rubber plugs in the holes....

Before you go too far, the obvious thing no one has mentioned is the idle speed. If it is 850+ combined with the advanced timing, that could be the largest contributor to the problem. Make sure your idle is under 800, and perhaps try to retard the timing back one or two degrees, if for no other reason than to rule out the timing as being the culprit.

May be related to the one wanting to trade the Z for a VW Bug.... or their "spawn".... :bandit:

I shouldn't have looked at the pics, I see something you forgot... :paranoid: Door bumpers??..... :surprised

Got a couple more bolts in the valence panel too... still, it's a lot better to do it this way since he wants to remove the fender, than to chance snapping off any studs or stripping out the screw heads that are probably half full of dirt/undercoating etc....

Pretty sure it was a plain old alkyd enamel, they didn't have bc/cc in the late 70's.....

Whichever he's talking about, my way is the easiest and safest way.... take it all off along with the fender and put it on a bench and work on them. I use a Dremel tool with a little wire wheel in it to clean off the crud and rust off the studs and backside of the screws as much as possible.

If the bumpers are the original ones, the car is either a 77 or 78 judging by the shape of the end caps and face of the bumpers. And I agree :sick: :sick: :tapemouth

Nearly any competant body shop and certainly any body supply shop will be able to look it up on the computer. Of course, they will only be able to tell you the code of the paint manufacturer they use at that shop. I use the computer at the Dodge dealer to look up paint codes for Dupont. If the computer doesn't go back that far in time, their books certainly will.

It's probably the water control valve which is stuck open and overheating the carbs, it's actually vaporizing in the carbs and not being vaporized in the lines. I had a 73 that did the same thing many years ago. If you do a search for water control valve, you should find quite a few threads about it.

Performance Friction makes some good street pads that should do OK for the occasional auto-X. Hawk and Carbotech make the best race pads (or at least that's what most people I know are using) and Hawk does make a decent variety for street/race use.....