2ManyZs

I was kinda surprised he didn't try to use the old "used only on weekends by a little old man".....

I don't know what I'd do if I ever got a refund check big enough to buy another car.....:cross-eye :disappoin

You would be better off to use the non-turbo F-54 with the flat top pistons with the E-31 head. The Turbo block is the same, the only major differences are the pistons and rings. You will be playing "catch-up" by using the turbo block with the dished pistons, since even with an E-31 your compression is going to be significantly lower than if you used a non turbo F54.

All the ones I've ever seen were a semi-gloss black.

Yup, the rear quarter and roof panels/door frames on all the cars up to 78 meet in the same place. In fact, I'd imagine even the ZX's have a seam in the same basic location as well.

There are sandwich plates available to mount the oil filter in the stock location, and run lines for an oil coller. There are also remote filter heads with gauge ports as well. Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies has them on page 62 of their new catalog. Just don't ask me what the filter thread size is, cuz I don't remember back that far.....:cross-eye

The IT class rules say you have to run the original diameter wheels. You can run the 15x7's or 15x8's if you move up one class to EP, but that jump is a costly one to be competitive in a Z.:disappoin

I can't think of any other way to do it without using an adapter plate to mount the oil filter on, and just use one of the ports for the oil lines to mount the sending unit into. Are you planning on an oil cooler?

As long as the wheels have close to a zero offset, the 225/60's will fit just fine.

Tell her the car is only 5k? Just don't tell her the shipping will be 23.5K......:cross-eye

The coupe flywheels (non 2+2) are the same. Here's a good place with a little more info. http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Here's another choice also.....The Maxima/810 flywheel is another alternative if you want to shave off a little weight without spending a lot. http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm#Flywheel

Depends..... If you are using a remote oil filter or oil cooler, why not in the sandwich plate where the lines run off the block. You can find many different styles of sandwich plates with ports for temp sensors, or you could use an oil filter head with the port in it if you use a remote filter. I'd run it off the adapter plate on the block, before the oil gets to back to the pan.

All of the above, with the exception of the Splitfires... get a set of NGK's, Splitfires aren't worth the money. I'd start with the ignition upgrades first, then the carbs and finish with a header and exhaust. A Jet Hot coated header would be best, but may bust your budget by a hundred or so by the time you get all of the parts. Ignition- first choice would be the Pertonix Carb filters would be K&N's, either individual or the stock replacement. Plugs, definately NGK's. Wires- 8.8mm, most any name brand is fine. Exhaust- 2 to 2 1/2 inch with a "Turbo" style muffler Headers- depends on budget. Grose jets and a ZTherapy tune up video and perhaps a rebuild kit.

I think your "mystery black box" is perhaps the problem. You say it was a simple security system? There was no such thing on the 260's, other than a seatbelt interlock. It was could have been either the relay for the seatbelt interlock, or perhaps the transistor ignition unit (?). If this "useless black box" was mounted on the firewall, just to the right of the battery and just above the brake lines, it's not what you think. You may have created an open circuit and that is what is draining your battery. Hard to tell without seeing a pic of what you have......

Well, seems they are having supply problems with the Falkens in 14 inch... backorders...oops..... These look interesting, and cheap too in 225/60-14, but by the treadwear rating, they'd be a hard tire, maybe not so good for track days. http://www.vulcantire.com/ze502_6_t.htm

I think he means the Falken Azena's, right seerex? I forgot about those earlier....:stupid:

I don't have any experience with the Radial T/A's you are talking about, I've got a set of 15 inch Comp T/A's sitting in the garage waiting for my car to be finished. Here's a few other alternatives if you are interested in browsing....I didn't check on the exact sizes available in 14 inch though.... the Bridgestone seems to have a pretty good feedback. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Potenza+RE950 http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Avid+H4S http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+GT-HR This one says it's available in 14 inch, but the Tire Rack doesn't give a price.. this one looks the best IMO. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=ECSTA+Supra+712 Of course, you could also look into the Toyo Proxxes, they are available in 14's, and they wear well for an R compound tire. Depends on how much track use versus street use you are planning.

I'd say they look better where they came from, on a Saab....

I kinda like the blue interior... it's different and not one you will see everyday. The vinyl on the tunnel is probably just covered by the later style carpet. Not original though... What scares me is where the negative battery cable is connected, and why someone would put it there to begin with. Notice it's a "change-over" car too.... early dash and console, steering wheel, yet not hatch vents. I will say this though, if there is no evidence of bondo, someone better look closely at the leading edge of the hood, if there's a crack near the hood emblem, it can't be anything other than bondo. Highly unlikely the paint will crack there unless there's something other than metal under it.

Well, glad someone agrees with me... I wish I had a set of Panasport UL's, if your Hayashi's are the ones I think they are, I'd trade you in a minute.....always liked the looks of them.:cheeky:

Well, you'd probably need the advice of someone who is still racing for the lug nuts, they didn't have such a thing back in the early 90's when I was racing..... FWIW, most of the guys I know who are still racing just use the stock steel lugs with new studs (usually just a little longer than stock) with all the wheels that allow them to use the conical lug nuts. I guess it's a two-fold reasoning, the strength of the steel lugs is a known quantity, and the weight savings would be so miniscule that the expense doesn't make sense.

Sorry, but 15 inch wheels aren't legal in ITS on a 240-280Z. The Panasport UL's are just about the only lightweight wheels you will find in 14 inch that are still being made. I've heard that this guy has the lowest prices on them.... http://www.daveturner.com/ I don't know if Keizer makes a 14 inch wheel, but a lot of the Production racers use their 15 inch wheels.

http://www.nbc4.com/news/2885805/detail.html Not only the idiot that was driving, but his passenger and his freakin lawyer. How can anyone stand in front of a camera, and with a straight face, say that his client isn't a danger to his community?:mad: :tapemouth

Not only that, but the GM engine has a water jacket that is designed to be reverse flow. If you do this to just any engine, it's liable to end up restricting flow due to the shape and routing of the water jacket. Just because the coolant flows in one direction won't mean it will flow as well in the opposite direction. To do this would more than likely require a head that is designed to flow in the reverse, and we all know what an aluminum head does when it gets hot. If you reversed flow, and ended up with even one hot spot due to the coolant flow being interrupted or having an air pocket, you will ruin the head in short order. To be honest, I would work on maximizing the stock system.

If you do a search with the keywords "mig welder" you'll find a ton of posts on the subject of which welder to buy, and tips on how to weld the patch panels in. Best advice I can give is to practice, practice, practice on scrap metal the same thickness as you'll be welding before you attempt to do the repairs to the car. Less chance of mistakes, and a lot less grinding to fix your mistakes that way. Go to the junkyard if you have to and buy an old hood or door to practice on if you have to, it will be money well spent.