2ManyZs

The coupe flywheels (non 2+2) are the same. Here's a good place with a little more info. http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Here's another choice also.....The Maxima/810 flywheel is another alternative if you want to shave off a little weight without spending a lot. http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm#Flywheel

Depends..... If you are using a remote oil filter or oil cooler, why not in the sandwich plate where the lines run off the block. You can find many different styles of sandwich plates with ports for temp sensors, or you could use an oil filter head with the port in it if you use a remote filter. I'd run it off the adapter plate on the block, before the oil gets to back to the pan.

All of the above, with the exception of the Splitfires... get a set of NGK's, Splitfires aren't worth the money. I'd start with the ignition upgrades first, then the carbs and finish with a header and exhaust. A Jet Hot coated header would be best, but may bust your budget by a hundred or so by the time you get all of the parts. Ignition- first choice would be the Pertonix Carb filters would be K&N's, either individual or the stock replacement. Plugs, definately NGK's. Wires- 8.8mm, most any name brand is fine. Exhaust- 2 to 2 1/2 inch with a "Turbo" style muffler Headers- depends on budget. Grose jets and a ZTherapy tune up video and perhaps a rebuild kit.

I think your "mystery black box" is perhaps the problem. You say it was a simple security system? There was no such thing on the 260's, other than a seatbelt interlock. It was could have been either the relay for the seatbelt interlock, or perhaps the transistor ignition unit (?). If this "useless black box" was mounted on the firewall, just to the right of the battery and just above the brake lines, it's not what you think. You may have created an open circuit and that is what is draining your battery. Hard to tell without seeing a pic of what you have......

Well, seems they are having supply problems with the Falkens in 14 inch... backorders...oops..... These look interesting, and cheap too in 225/60-14, but by the treadwear rating, they'd be a hard tire, maybe not so good for track days. http://www.vulcantire.com/ze502_6_t.htm

I think he means the Falken Azena's, right seerex? I forgot about those earlier....:stupid:

I don't have any experience with the Radial T/A's you are talking about, I've got a set of 15 inch Comp T/A's sitting in the garage waiting for my car to be finished. Here's a few other alternatives if you are interested in browsing....I didn't check on the exact sizes available in 14 inch though.... the Bridgestone seems to have a pretty good feedback. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Potenza+RE950 http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Avid+H4S http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+GT-HR This one says it's available in 14 inch, but the Tire Rack doesn't give a price.. this one looks the best IMO. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=ECSTA+Supra+712 Of course, you could also look into the Toyo Proxxes, they are available in 14's, and they wear well for an R compound tire. Depends on how much track use versus street use you are planning.

I'd say they look better where they came from, on a Saab....

I kinda like the blue interior... it's different and not one you will see everyday. The vinyl on the tunnel is probably just covered by the later style carpet. Not original though... What scares me is where the negative battery cable is connected, and why someone would put it there to begin with. Notice it's a "change-over" car too.... early dash and console, steering wheel, yet not hatch vents. I will say this though, if there is no evidence of bondo, someone better look closely at the leading edge of the hood, if there's a crack near the hood emblem, it can't be anything other than bondo. Highly unlikely the paint will crack there unless there's something other than metal under it.

Well, glad someone agrees with me... I wish I had a set of Panasport UL's, if your Hayashi's are the ones I think they are, I'd trade you in a minute.....always liked the looks of them.:cheeky:

Well, you'd probably need the advice of someone who is still racing for the lug nuts, they didn't have such a thing back in the early 90's when I was racing..... FWIW, most of the guys I know who are still racing just use the stock steel lugs with new studs (usually just a little longer than stock) with all the wheels that allow them to use the conical lug nuts. I guess it's a two-fold reasoning, the strength of the steel lugs is a known quantity, and the weight savings would be so miniscule that the expense doesn't make sense.

Sorry, but 15 inch wheels aren't legal in ITS on a 240-280Z. The Panasport UL's are just about the only lightweight wheels you will find in 14 inch that are still being made. I've heard that this guy has the lowest prices on them.... http://www.daveturner.com/ I don't know if Keizer makes a 14 inch wheel, but a lot of the Production racers use their 15 inch wheels.

http://www.nbc4.com/news/2885805/detail.html Not only the idiot that was driving, but his passenger and his freakin lawyer. How can anyone stand in front of a camera, and with a straight face, say that his client isn't a danger to his community?:mad: :tapemouth

Not only that, but the GM engine has a water jacket that is designed to be reverse flow. If you do this to just any engine, it's liable to end up restricting flow due to the shape and routing of the water jacket. Just because the coolant flows in one direction won't mean it will flow as well in the opposite direction. To do this would more than likely require a head that is designed to flow in the reverse, and we all know what an aluminum head does when it gets hot. If you reversed flow, and ended up with even one hot spot due to the coolant flow being interrupted or having an air pocket, you will ruin the head in short order. To be honest, I would work on maximizing the stock system.

If you do a search with the keywords "mig welder" you'll find a ton of posts on the subject of which welder to buy, and tips on how to weld the patch panels in. Best advice I can give is to practice, practice, practice on scrap metal the same thickness as you'll be welding before you attempt to do the repairs to the car. Less chance of mistakes, and a lot less grinding to fix your mistakes that way. Go to the junkyard if you have to and buy an old hood or door to practice on if you have to, it will be money well spent.

I don't know, but the script part of the emblem looks exactly like the 240Z that was on the hatch on the US cars or is it just me? I'm just wondering if it would be possible to somehow separate the script portion from the medallion and replace it with the script portion that attached to the hatch, minus the mounting studs.... Couldn't even change badging? Yikes.... I'd hate to be in a hurry and get pulled over just because a badge didn't match.

Just for the heck of it, I went out and measured both of the Grant wheels I have. One measures ~11 1/4 inside, and ~13 3/4 outside The second one is ~10 1/2 inside, and ~13 outside. What I don't know, is which one was advertised at 13 inch, or 14 inch..... of if both were advertised as 13's.... The are both different styles, and the thickness of the rims is very different between the two. To be safe, I'd say go with a 14 inch wheel, which, will probably be slightly smaller than the original, while still being large enough that it won't affect the steering effort too much. The 13 inch wheel I've got is fine when used along with the short steering arms.

That's a darn good question..... I looked around on some of the wheel manufacturers sites in their FAQ's and such, and couldn't find the answer.

All this talk about the C-pillar emblems got me curious as to what I had in my drawer in the shop. Unfortunately, all the used ones I found have (or had) the white Z, but I did find something that made me happy. The replacement emblems I got from MSA a few years ago for the 71 aren't the cheap plastic ones but the original metal ones.:classic:

Well Dwight, I guess I'll back you up on the liking Steely Dan. There's was the first cassette in my collection. Nothing compares to Meatloaf's "Paradise by the Dashboard Light" IMO Second most favorite would be Bob Segar's "Mainstreet" for cruising...:cheeky:

If you are going to replace the complete floors and rails, be sure to get the best available, which are the Zedd Findings floor pans, or the premium pans from Motorsport(supplied by ZeddFindings) as they are much thicker and the closest copy of the originals.

The 180 is fine with darn near anything an L series can put out. The only time you'd need the R-200 would be with an RB or V-8 swap. The 180 can be upgraded to a LSD as easily as the R-200, and the Quaiffe unit for the 180 is a couple hundred cheaper to boot.

Errr, Chloe has had them listed on her site the whole time...... She's even got the rear taillights too....

If nothing has to be changed (according to him), you might want to check that it is in fact an R-200, it could be an R-160 from a 510 that had the 3:90 from the factory, or an R-180 from either a 200SX or 4x4 truck.