2ManyZs

Bullit would have to rate as my all time favorite, with "Dirty Mary, Crazy Larry" in second.

Guess it's been a while since I drove through there, I know where you're talking about. Right across from the Post office. If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll drive up thru "the big city"and see what is there.

Hmm, never seen one in Maurertown, but if you want someone to help you look it over let me know. I can show you where to look for problems, I've seen enough of them I can spot them from a distance usually. Hmm, just happened to find this one on Ebay in Richmond that looks to be in darn nice shape, although the pics don't show the underside, judging by the outside, it might just be in good shape. But, you can see the price is a bit higher than your budget at this time.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2462033908&category=6187 Here's one in Roanoke, gonna go cheap, but, it's showing major rust issues on the outside, and I'd imagine the underside isn't much better....:disappoin I got scare when I saw the rockers and the lower front fenders and didn't dare look at the rest of the pics. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2462872439&category=6187

Yeah, it's not bad up there. Not like it used to be when they were building the Seaway though( just a little before my time though). It was a real "boomtown" for a while when they were building the Seaway, the locks and the Moses Power dam. You'd have liked the calls trips we used to take in grade school, we got to go thru the tunnels under the locks that ran from one side to another so people could get from the visitors center to the main building in an emergency. Biggest thing going up there now is with the State Police watching the reservation, and the Border Patrol catching the drug runners coming out of Canada by way of the reservation.....:cross-eye

Yup, just down the road.... I know where a few rusted out ones are, but none that are in decent shape that are for sale in your price range, at least not close by. There's only 3 or 4 of us here in Shenandoah county that have early Z's that I know of. There was another member here in Woodstock that was selling a 240 about a year ago as he was moving out of the area, but I don't know if it sold or where it ended up. I've got one in the back yard that can show you where all the rust prone areas are unfortunately.

Hmm, I spent 17 years growing up in Massena, NY.....:devious:

Depending on where you are in VA, the first place to look would be with one of the VA Z clubs. For the price you are willing to pay, to get the best possible car, I'd be looking west, like California. Most of the cars in this area, that are in good condition will command a bit higher prices since there are less of them in this area. California is loaded with Z's compared to VA, and you'll get one with less rust issues for the money. In my opinion, you ought to save up some more, as many cars in the 2K price range will require a lot of work, perhaps doubling your investment just to make it safe to drive on the road. That is, unless you are willing to make it a long term project.....

Born in Texas, claims NY as "home", lives in SC..... talk about an identity crisis.....

I think you may be referring to the "Sports Option" catalog, which is similar to the Nissan Competition Catalog (what we had in the US), offering factory approved equipment designed for motorsports.

The first Z that came from the factory with a LSD wasn't until 1987. If yours has one, it would have had to have been put in as an add on. Nismo still offers them although they are pricey(700+) and becoming harder to find for the R-200's and R-180's. Quaiffe has one that fits, and is similar to the Torson units, but they are usually 900+ dollars.

Take a look here to figure out what are buying first. The R-160's will fit a 240, but they aren't as strong as the R-180, so if you are planning any future engine upgrades you'll have to take that into account that your diff may not hold up. V-8 conversions, Turbo conversions will require a stronger diff. http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm#Where%20does%20Subaru%20Fit%20in?

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html Of course, you never know what a previous owner may have installed......

Depends on what you are referring to as a heat coating. Jet Hot or something like that or the brush on types you can get at speed shops? I've seen a few racers that have taken the time and money to have their intake manifolds and cross over Jet Hot coated on the outside. Due to the rules they can only do the outside and not the inside. Does it make a big difference? Not one that could be felt in the seat according to the one who I know. It does however look darn good. If it were done inside and out, I think the benefit of doing it would increase as it would reduce the heat transfer in and out of the manifold by somewhat isolating the manifold material from all heat sources. In other words, I doubt it would be worth the time and money unless it's done inside and out, where you will reap the largest benefit. Same with the headers. If it is done only on the outside, the metal is still in contact with the hot exhaust gases, which will end up causing the metal to act as a heat sink which will hold the heat, while if it is coated on the inside, the more of the heat will escape thru the exhaust and not have the chance to heat up the metal.

Hmm, I've never seen one like that, and never even noticed the pics in his book either.....:cross-eye Maybe an aftermarket replacement part that is NLA?

I haven't contacted him yet, as I want to see what it will look like cleaned up, I don't want to get his hopes up only to find out there's something wrong that is hidden under all the dirt and grime.... As far as my "collection" goes, unfortunately it's more parts than anything right now.... :stupid:

Well, the main reason I asked was because the holes in the hatch for the outside grilles was drilled out obviously for some reason as the barrel clips fall right thru the holes. Maybe someone thought that the barrel clips inserted into the vent box body itself and that not only held the grilles but also helped to hold the body of the drain box in place. Guess that means I'm gonna have to do some repair work on the hatch.. The boxes in mine are loose and the "face plates" are gone, no doubt loose somewhere inside the hatch....

Hmm, if it's just a clip I'm missing that is fine with me.... I was thinking their had to be either another clip or a different barrel clip for the outside grilles that went all the way into the drain. I've got new grilles, but they seem to have the "regular" style barrel clip that is used on all the emblems. My drains are in good shape, so if all I need is a clip that makes me feel better....

Looks great to me Craig:classic: But how did "the Boss" convince you to put your name on the passengers side?????

Geez, I didn't know these were still out there new.....:stupid: Chloe, one question, do the barrel clips on the outside vent grill insert into the plastic or the hatch metal itself. My hatch has holes that are way too big for the barrel clips, and the holes in the drains are too big as well for whatever reason. Guess that's why my car didn't have grilles on it when I bought it. I'm just trying to determine which holes are wrong before I mess with the hatch.

Their price on the Tamiya 1/12 ZG kit is great, but they are way high on the Kyosho die casts..... Odd that they have such a good price on something that is NLA, yet something that is still available is almost double what you would pay either on Ebay or another supplier...

My 71 has the latch as well as one of the 72's (very early car) and the late 72 has none. The 73 I had I do remember having the locking cover, as it froze up once in the winter and I had a %^## of a time getting it open when I was running around on fumes. Don't know if it was a dealer add on or not, as I've seen a few of the locking gas doors but not many. Another assembly line mystery maybe?

Look at the auction again, and notice where they are listed. Sometimes you need to do a broader search as not all the parts are listed under Z items, or Datsun items. Do a search and always remember to check off the box for titles and descriptions, you'll get a lot more listings.

Well, I've got one that as far as I know was never put on the ground. It was in the spare well of the 72 parts car, that was half full of water. Rim is rusted, tire is grimey and covered with rust from the well. I put it on the parts car to move it last fall, and it has held air fine all winter. Maybe this weekend I can find another tire/wheel to put on the car and try to clean it up a little and see how it looks.

They met reserve at 159, but I'd bet they are going to go a lot higher than that....... I wouldn't mind having a nice set, but can't afford them right now.... The basic shape is the pretty much the same over all the years Stephen, but if you notice the colors changed in the later ones. The earlier ones were a two-tone while these seem to be all painted one color with no trim around the cut-outs.

Well, the main reason I called them adjustable bushings is the fact that there are two ways to adjust the camber, either with the adjustable control arm bushings, or at the top of the strut with their adjustable "insulator". The link Mark just posted is what I am talking about. You should also get the wrench that goes with them, although you could make them yourself. They are made of a thin guage aluminum as there is very little room and a regular wrench won't fit. All you need to do is loosen the bolts on the mounting "cap" and you can then adjust them fairly easily if they are well lubricated, but you will need to jack up the tire just enough to get the weight off it.