2ManyZs

I was sitting here thinking about how many of both styles of those clamps I've thrown in the trash over the years. If I'd only known.....:stupid:

Yeah, 70 series are still available, just not in what you might consider to be a "performance" tire.... the choices are getting more and more limited though. I've got a couple sets of the stock steel wheels, although at the moment they are holding cars up out of the mud...

Yeah, you and me both Mike. It's just perfect for me the way it is, and my Dad had no trouble with headroom and he was 6'4". If the roof had been 3 inches lower, it would have seriously compromised head room, not to mention the scale of the car itself. With the high beltline it would have also made the side windows way too small, talk about blind spots while driving......:cross-eye

Yes, the adjustable control arm bushings will allow you to adjust the toe in the rear, by adjusting one or the other of the bushings. They aren't cheap though, I think about 120 or so for the four bushings. They also require more maintanence than the stock replacements, as they are aluminum and delrin. You will have to lube them judiciously when you install them, and it is good to pull them and re-lube them every couple years, just to make sure they don't wear out the delrin.

At least it wasn't a Z.....:stupid: :sick:

Hybrid has been up all day today, must be their new address that is screwing things up... http://68.224.171.75/phpnuke/html/index.php Even ZDriver is down today, now I know why we've had so many online today....:cross-eye

Yeah, I second the virus scans.. I got hit 3 times this afternoon with the MiMail virus attached to one of the Paypal scam e-mails, so someone I know got hit....... :mad:

Check with Chloe at MidwestZ. I'm not sure of those fasteners are available separately or not. They are usually included with the replacement weatherstrips.

Bet no one will be in the back seat trying to "fog up" the back windows either....:devious:

Try swapping the plugs around, take the plug from 1 and 2 and swap them, drive it for a day, then check them again. It could be just a weak spark plug, if the same plug fouls in number 1, it's the plug. If the plug you put in number 2 fouls, you'll know it's the cylinder itself. How long since you adjusted the valves? And, have you re-adjusted the valves since you put the head on? If not, try re-adjusting the valves again. Drive it around a while and re-check the plugs. One thing to do while you have the valve cover off when you adjust the valves would be to check the wear pattern on the rockers, just to be sure the valves were set up with the proper lash pads when the head was worked on. If you look in this thread, you'll get a good idea what to look for as far as as the wear pattern and contact on the rockers. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6342&highlight=lash+pads See if that helps any......

Wasn't the one in "You Only Live Twice" a convertible?

I think it's only down temporarily over the weekend for whatever reason...at least that's what I read on another forum.

Seems I put my foot in my mouth again, as the console isn't in the shop... I guess when I sold the 280 I just started throwing all the 280 stuff in the back of his truck to get it out of my way and the console must have been in the pile....:stupid: Guess one thing I should do this spring is an inventory of what I have out there.....

As far as identifying the trans and what diff ratios were in what years, you just have to look here... http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html

You'd miss the smell from the paper mill Will....:cross-eye But I guess they have them in CA too......

If I remember right, the 260-280 console had what amounted to a cradle that bolted to the front end of the console that held the radio... I've still got a console from my 75 in the shop, I'll look and see if the mount is still on the console tomorrow and post a pic if it's there.

Here's one place you can look... http://www.autobodystore.com/Default.htm Just do a Google search for automotive painting and you should come up with hundreds of others. The best way to learn it is hands on though, so if you have the chance, the best way to learn is to go through a tech school course. Either while still in high school, or after.

If you can't see it with the front cover on to drill it out, the only way to do it right would be to remove the front cover. There's a possibility that it was cross threading since only a short piece snapped off and it might not need to be drilled out, but, you ought to chase the threads with a tap to be sure after you get it out. You might get lucky and only need a pair of thin jawed vice grips if the end of the bolt is sticking out of the block far enough. Think of it as a good preventative maintenance exercise, you'll get to check out the timing chain tensioner and chain closely, replace the cover gasket which has a tendancy to leak a little at the bottom, and replace the front cover seal all in one shot.... Lot of work to do when a simple water pump change was all you needed........

Most people just replace them with new or reman ones since the replacements are so cheap, under 25 bucks. There used to be rebuild kits for the slave, but I wouldn't bother unless you wanted to rebuild the old one after you replace it for a spare. Even with a rebuild kit, there's always the possibility that what you have won't be in good enough shape to rebuild and last for long. By the sounds of the color of the fluid, you definately want to flush out the system thoroughly, and if it's been like that for a while, the possibility of moisture in the system, would likely be the reason the slave failed in the first place.

A safer place to put the jackstands in the rear is the short section of frame rail that runs just in front of the wheelwell, just on the outside of the control arm mounting point. Best place in the front is on the frame rail just behind the T/C rod mount. Radiator supports can hide rust issues that you won't know about until it's too late.:cross-eye Such as in this pic....sorry, I don't have a good pic of where I'm talking about in the rear.

The car in the top pic belongs to auxilary, the pic looks to have been taken at a show Stephen, maybe he remember which show it was at.... The blue car is owned by another member and here's his web-site. If you look in his parts list you'll see he got the Kaminari air dam from Motorsport Auto. http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/

Wow, that's a high price on the Ralley car..... That one is still available, and by the Tower Hobbies site it's about 84NZD (60US) not including shipping. I'm planning on adding one of the two ralley cars later, and maybe the maroon ZG model and then call it quits for a while, by then, I should be able to work on the real one sitting in the shop.

I was wondering the same thing Kyteler, so I bid on the first one...:devious: hehe, got it for $49.50......:classic: I was really expecting a lot more bidding on it since it has been discontinued for quite a while.

True, the cam profile is going to be a factor in how high you want to rev it, but as anyone knows, there are times you rev it higher than you expect....:devious: I should have added in my first reply, the compression ratio will be a big factor in the equation too... Phred would be a good one to tell you about the maximums of the stock pistons better than I as he has built race engines and knows where the cut-off point should be.

You shouldn't have to worry about the pistons, I've known people who consistently take their engines to 7500+ or - without problems with standard pistons. It's the valve springs and the rods bolts that are probably the major determining factor in how high you can rev it. I've seen more "rod ventilated" blocks, broken valve springs/keepers and rocker arms from over-revving than piston failures.