2ManyZs

Here's the link to the Maxima/810 flywheel info.... http://www.automedic.org/smzcc/tech_tips.htm#Flywheel

Here's a nice little 3/8 Craftsman.... http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944594000 And here's one of their most expensive 1/2, they've got another one 30 bucks cheaper without the "high tech" digital readout.. which, if that is the only way to tell if you have the proper torque won't do much good if you can't read it while you are trying to torque the bolt..... http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944597000

Yup, Snap On is very expensive...if I remember right the one I have is the 1/2 50-250 like this one... and if my memory is correct, I paid nearly 200 for it back in 79.... so, the prices really haven't gone up that much in the last 25 years.....:cross-eye http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?tool=all&item_ID=55264&group_ID=954&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog I'm with Mark, if you can buy a good quality 3/8 for the light stuff and one 1/2 inch for the heavier torques, you'll be way ahead of the game... especially if you can get the two of them for around 200 bucks or less. One caveat with the click type wrenches, Snap On has always said to dial it back to its lowest setting and lock it while storing it, don't go below the lowest setting, nor leave it set at a higher setting. I guess it's due to the springs inside being left under tension that they losing their shape and/or temper over time and you may not get a correct reading. Like I said, you get what you pay for....think those are high, look in Snap On's catalog and see what the really big ones go for, the ones that go upwards of 600ft/lbs....:cross-eye I used to use one on Cummins engines that would wear your arm out just holding it up, let alone torqueing head bolts at 375ft/lbs....

The majority of the fasteners on a Z will be under 175ft/lbs. So, if you can find one that goes from 10-150 or so, you'll have 90% or more covered. As far as the "scale" type versus the "click" type, I prefer the click type ratchets as there will be times when the scale is gonna be hard to read, or the wrench is gonna be in an odd angle making it difficult to get a good consistent pull on the wrench to get a proper torque. That is, unless you plan on only torqueing parts when they are on the workbench, then, the scale type is probably going to be more accurate. Torque wrenches are like any other tool, the less you spend, you'll get a cheap tool. The cheapest torque wrench I'd buy would be Craftsman or a comparable brand... no bargain basement "no-name" brand for something as critical as torque specs especially if you do any engine work. Personally, I've got a Snap-On torque wrench that is over 20 years old.... my only regret is not getting one that goes as low as 10 ft/lbs when tools were a bit cheaper way back when.....

It's also possible some of it is due to the condition of the engine, as the engine wears, the tolerances will increase, and when warm, the bearings have a bit more clearance than they should have to promote the highest possible oil pressure... I'd put a sending unit in for sure, or, hook up a mechanical gauge temporarily so you know exactly what your oil pressure truly is. If it's OK with the mechanical gauge at all RPM's, you have piece of mind that no matter how innacurate the stock gauge is, you still have pressure that is not going to cause premature wear on the engine. The Turbo pump is a good alternative if your pressures do check out a bit low. The pump doesn't increase your pressure all that much, but it does increase the volume and that is just as important if not more so than the increase in pressure.

Gavin is right, we won't tolerate trying to start arguments or posts with this type of antagonistic remarks.

Oops, couldn't find the darn pic...

Kinda like this one Tom? It's not only got rust, but the hood and roof are now 1/2 covered with a nice light green mold/mildew/fungus from being parked under the trees for 4 years or so..... It's even started on the sides now, especially around the rust holes and the holes drilled in the side for some idiots idea of a body molding... hmm, one molding gone, another "mold"ing taking over....

Which Dodge blue? This is my Ram with the Intense Blue (code VB3).... they've got another one called Patriot Blue I think that is a bit darker.. not sure what they have this year. I'm considering painting my second Z with it... if I ever get the first one done that is....:tapemouth :cross-eye

I got my last set at Northern Tool... be willing to bet Harbor Freight has them as well. The race car suppliers usually are a little more expensive, but not by a lot......

I was looking at the wheels as well... they looked at first like just plain old aluminum slots till I looked a little closer...I like em.... I'd like to know who made them as well.... They remind me of the wheels on the mid-80's Corvettes with the way they don't have a squared off lip on the rim...

I tried them once in the IT car... any difference? Nope.... Waste of money IMO.... The ones with the 4 tips like an aircraft plug look promising though, in principle at least......can't remember what they call them now.....:stupid:

My first choice would be the Red Bolt... but, I'd have to do the yellow bolt in a really bright blue....and maybe just a tad higher with the red, and a wider blue bolt... bring it up closer to the beltline and end at the bottom of the headlight cover in front. Second choice would be the Flame Job, with a couple different colors... bright blue instead of the black, and perhaps orange where the yellow is.... Can you tell I don't like yellow?:cross-eye Can never go wrong with the BRE scheme, whether the top is red or blue....

They are posted now... All pics have to be approved by one of the Moderators or by Mike.. Sometimes we get a wee bit behind...

Hmm, they got a Continental kit for 18-22 inch wheels now? I think his Ebay username says it all....:cross-eye :devious:

My best guess would be the wires are crossed up on the cap.... You said your dizzy you replaced had the timing bolt on the back, and you set the new on to the same cylinder, which, since it's got the mounting bolt 180 degrees out would mean the wires are 180 out.... If it's trying to fire while the wires aren't in the right sequence on the cap, it will make the starter work to turn it over.... Go back and double check the plug wires on the cap...remember 1-5-3-6-2-4, counterclockwise on the distributor rotation..... You could set the motor to TDC on the compression stroke, see where the rotor is pointing and put number 1 wire there and then go in sequence and see if it fires up.....

Although we didn't come up with the correct color, we did find a couple places that can help in this old thread... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6029&highlight=air+cleaner+color

One thing you guys have overlooked is the simple things... like toe in, caster, camber and the tires(width, and the tread design as well)... they will all contribute a lot to the ability of the car to track straight, windy or not... Ya gotta remember, these cars aren't all that heavy either, so crosswinds will be more pronounced than in heavier car... A front spoiler will only do so much to contribute to the aero at highway speeds....

Just one thing, before you order strut cartridges, you might want to check the strut housings themselves to see if they have been "molested" in any way..... if the car is that close to the ground, he may have shortened the strut housings or moved the lower spring perch...... My old race car sat almost that low to the ground (but it depends on where you are taking this measurement also) with shortened struts and adjustable coil overs.... Seems to me if the car is that low, with the springs he had on there, there would have been almost no suspension travel at all. There's enough of us here with our cars torn to pieces we can give you the strut housing lengths for stock housings....:cross-eye

I hope he's already got a police record or their gonna have a tough time ID'ing the SOB...... It's kinda odd, I was watching a show on the Discovery Channel the other night all about the LA County Jail... I was sitting here thinking whoever took your car should have been one of the stars of the show....:devious:

What year car would this one come from in case the numbers aren't legible on the radio case?

Drain plug for the block, although, most times it's probably never been used.

What does the half-arsed "Hemi" have to do with a Viper motor and drivetrain in a pickup? People have been dropping well in excess of 30K on Ford Lighnings for years, and now all of a sudden, when Dodge finally gets off it's butt and puts out a truck that puts the Lighning and Chevy SS to shame, it's a POS? As far as the styling goes, I don't like it as well as the earlier Rams. And, in terms of price, well, the dealers are trying to get as much as possible by auctioning them off, since only 3K will be made this year, with no guarantee of a 2005 model. Same thing happened in 94 when the Viper first hit the showrooms, dealers were marking up the sticker by 10K or more due to its limited availability the first year......... No, it won't tow much more than a couple Jet-Ski's, but then, can half of the sports cars or sport bikes on the market today be used to their utmost potential on the road?

I asked Santa Claus for only one thing this year, and he went and sent it to the wrong place.... and they've got it on Ebay already.....:devious: :disappoin :mad: Guess he needs an updated GPS for next year... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453351743&category=31831

Dunno Steve, but, if you remember in your race car thread, their race car is up for sale... so maybe they are getting out of the biz....