2ManyZs

C'mon Kmack, some of us know why you like Las Vegas:devious: Same reason I never miss it..... Nikki Cox and Vanessa Marcil. Same reason I never miss JAG... Catherine Bell..... As far as sitcoms go, one of the funniest in years was 8 Simple Rules, which, after the death of John Ritter will never be the same. I'll watch the one with Belushi (According to Jim) in it once in a while, but, it gets old after a while.... Now, you wanna talk about some shows that make me want to use the TV as target practice? How about: Queer Eye for the Straight Guy, Joe Schmo, Fear Factor, Average Joe or whatever the hell it is... and any of these other so called "reality" shows that have nothing to do with reality unless you are living in Hollywood and have a 50K a year cocaine addiction........ One thing I'm still trying to figure out, the networks seem to be having fun playing repeats in the middle of the year. One week, you get a new show, then the following week will be a repeat of one of the shows from the beginning of the season, then the following week, you're back to a new show again.....

Don't know about the Dan Gurney referrence, but they do look kinda neat.....Might look pretty good if someone gave them a good polishing.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2452339192&category=33744

Hard to find, but they do need a little TLC..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2452577216&category=33696

Shouldn't have any clearance problems on a 14x6 wheel with either 215's or the 225's.....especially since you know the offset is OK as they are a Z wheel to begin with. I had 225/60's on the ITS car with 0 offset 14x7's, and only had rubbing after putting the adjustable coil-overs on and dropping it to the minimum height, which is probably an inch or so lower than you'd see on the street. It only rubbed on the very top of the fender well during cornering, so all it took was a little bend in the fender lip to fix it....

You could, but, then you'd need to re-heat treat the rotor, as the heat from the drilling will affect the hardness of the metal. You could end up with a brittle rotor that cracks and causes a disaster. Drilling should be left to those with the proper equipment.

I've driven turbos and even a few supercharged/turbocharged diesels in the last 20 some years...... and I drive a Turbo diesel everyday......

He claims it is all original, yet it has the early carbs huh?:stupid: As far as I know, all the air cleaners were the same orange color, the one I had on my 73 was orange...The air filter housing on the 280 I had was a very similar color though.... The crappy black paint job in the engine compatment is not orginal either....... I'm not sure about the switch on the console either, it's not the OEM A/C "pod" that was on the 73's..... that I'm sure of. Now, what that switch is, is what I don't know.....

I'll add my 2 cents in on this one..... First off, grooved rotors do nothing for the braking ability. They used to a few years ago, when the brake pads used gave off a gas as they heated up and the slots were there to give the gas a place to go, besides between the pad and the rotor. This is a non-issue with todays brake pads, except perhaps for the bargain basement type pads at most "chain store" auto parts suppliers. The slots are there more for looks than function today, they do nothing to promote air flow across the rotor, or help trap heat in the rotor to prevent it from transferring the heat to the pads/cailpers/fluid..... Now, drilling the rotors does have a function, as it gives the rotor a bit more surface area for cooling, and it allows air to travel not only on the surface of the rotor, but also through the rotor, therefore aiding cooling to a certain extent. Will work only at its optimum if air is actually ducted to the rotors. Now for the point that will create much debate, and there is no definative answer to.. does drilling a "stock replacement" solid rotor aid cooling? IMO, only to a certain point, at which time it becomes a huge handicap. My opinion is this, up to a certain temp range, drilling a solid disc will aid cooling and braking, yet, when that threshold is crossed, the rotor has less mass to prevent warpage and cracking. It also has less mass to hold or store the heat that has built up, at which time the heat will transfer either to the pads/caliper/fluid, or the hub/bearings and cause more problems. Where that threshold is would have to be determined by a lot of on track testing, or in a controlled environment. IMO, a vented rotor is the best alternative even on that is stock. It has the mass to prevent warpage, and has a much large surface area, and, they benefit from having vanes built into the vented portion which will aid cooling even more. Drilling a vented rotor will give you even more cooling, without giving up too much rotor mass. Not only will the rotor have more surface area, but, with the vanes in the vented portion, it will allow "flow-thru" ventilation of the entire rotor surface to a small extent. Again, without ducted air to the rotor, the advantages are limited. In summary, drilled solid rotors would be best only on a street car, or an auto-X car where you will not be subjecting the rotor to extreme temps for a long period. If you will be using the brakes to the point where the rotors will be subjected to extended periods of high temps, then the only way to go is vented rotors if at all possible, or solid rotors with good ducting for fresh air. I'd much rather trash a set of solid rotors to warpage or heat checking, than to have a catastrophic brake failure due to overheated pads, or boiled fluid.....been there, done done both.

The time it takes the turbo to "spool" up to its max RPM and apply full boost to the intake tract after you open the throttle. Larger turbos normally take longer to spin up to its optimum boost RPM than smaller ones, although, today, the turbos are much more efficient than the ones they used 10 years ago or more. A lot of it has to do with the design and shape of the vanes and impeller in the turbo and how they work together with the shape of the housing. All turbo's will have some lag, as it takes time for the engine RPM's to increase enough to put out the exhaust flow required to speed up the turbo, which in turn will put more pressure or boost into the intake tract.

Gary, the stainless screws you were referring to on Ebay for the domes might have been listed by one of our members. Kmack was selling them for a while, but I don't know if he still has them, or perhaps he can tell you where to find them. I got a bag of them from him, and the only idents on the package are #10 screws.... they are allen head stainless steel screws, so probably most any good hardware should have them, or a Home Depot/Lowe's if you have one nearby.

All I can say is... Gary, "Duck and cover"... ..... Hmm, reminds me of the story of the guy who built a kit car in his basement...:devious: I can say this, if it got in there, it's gotta come out. Can it be turned 1/4 turn where it is and pushed back in to the left rear corner so the other car has enough room?

I looked on Tamiya's web-site and a bunch of model suppliers.. no Datsun Z's that I found... not even the ZG....:disappoin Maybe I just wasn't looking in the right place... wouldn't be the first time.

Here how mine turned out... not the best pic but you get the idea..... Darn camera was acting weird today.. must be the warm weather.... Sure wish Tamiya would do one in 1/12th scale or even 1/18th.. now that would be a model well worth building....Tamiya models always seemed to be some of the most finely detailed models on the market. And, in 1/12th it would be large enough to do some even more technical detailing.....

I found a few at "Wally-World" too.... Put one together, and it's not the worst, but certainly not the best model I've ever put together... but then, it's been almost 30 years since I put on together so I wasn't expecting perfection either.....:stupid: The worst thing I found in putting it together is the exhaust needs some modifications as it hangs too low and looks like crap, and the hodd hinges are almost impossible to get straight so the hood will open correctly... I ended up throwing them back in the box and just lying the hood in place. It also say not to glue the wheels in place, yet if you don't, they fall off easily....:stupid: I'll post a pic later and you can see how mine turned out... think I'll leave the other one in the box unopened... who knows, in 10 years I might be able to sell it for a small profit when they are NLA....:devious:

Since the starter was only clicking and then turned it over, I'd be tempted to look at the battery cables and/or battery. Could be it's a bad battery, or loose or corroded cables. If it's not the cables, have your battery and alternator tested. You might also want look at the fusible links on the passengers side strut tower, and the one on the battery as well. The FI and electonic ignition take a lot of power to run......

Or, the owner realized he couldn't afford to finish the project, or ran into money trouble along the way, and needs to cash to get himself out of debt. It doesn't look too bad, but I do see some things missing, like the ash tray cover, which is being discussed in another thread. Looks like one of the "change-over" cars, with the early console, yet no hatch vents. And, it's got some rather unattractive wheels on it IMO. All in all, probably a decent car for a project if you want to take the time and money to replace what is missing or incorrect, but if it goes over 5K, not worth the money IMO.

Can't use the factory EFI on the E-88... you'd have to mill the injector notch into the head. Better off to find either an N-42 head with the square exhaust ports like the E-88.... the N-42 is a good match for the E-88. The only thing you'd need to do to the N-42 is replace the bronze valve seats with hardened steel ones.

Looks to me like someone put a jackstand under it to support the car at one time or other.....:stupid:

Being a dog lover, I'm not so sure I like the fact they are feeding it dogs.... But, it also seems to me that it would require a lot more food than that... just the size of it, at almost 900lbs, makes me think they would need to feed it a lot more that the one Lee is talking about.... Maybe they ought to feed it a few pot bellied pigs... give it some of the "other white meat" for a while..... I was just thinking, at this weight, it wouldn't really need to squeeze its prey, just curl up on top of it.....:cross-eye

Saw this on the news tonight.... all I can say is, that's one snake I wouldn't care to find in my backyard....:cross-eye It'll be interesting to see if this is truly the largest ever in captivity. Wonder how many people it took to catch it in the first place, and what the hell were they thinking? http://msnbc.msn.com/Default.aspx?id=3845750&p1=0

Just thought I'd revive this one, since many of you haven't posted your pics yet....:devious: C'mon now, we've got new members who weren't afraid to post their pics, so what's wrong with some of you "regular" members? C'mon Royce, Daniel, Smokey, 240znz, 240Z, St. Stephen and a few more that I can't think of that are or have been regular contributors to the site. I've noticed a lot of you who posted pics in this thread, haven't posted them in the Mugshots Gallery either..

The 365 Ferrari had always been one of my all time favorite Ferrari's. What's a real shame is that these cars were selling for 500K and up only a few years ago, with the convertibles hitting the 1 million dollar mark. Goes to show what happens when investors and speculators get into the collectible car market.... someone has lost a pile of money on these cars....:disappoin

FSM calls for 2 degrees55' without load, so the right side is close to being correct, the left could use a little more though..... Maybe you have the T/C rod end too tight? Here's a good little steering geometry explanation... http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm 1/4 inch would be close to a degree in camber, however, with the camber bushings, the effect might be exaggerated a little, since most people don't use the bushings. The slotted camber plates only have approx. 2 inches of adjustment, but I don't know exactly how much = or - degrees that translates too...probably close to 3-4 degrees total. In lieu of slotting the strut towers, I'd look for some of the upper camber plates that you use the stock mounting holes... they are still out there, but at the moment, I can't remember the manufacturers names....:stupid: Tilton used to be one, but those are long gone now....

Your best bet is right here.. this guy has not only one complete set of the Z Car magazines for sale, but also quite a few individual copies... he's got some other interesting items as well... http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=zcar&sort=3&page=1&rows=50&since=-1&showpics=1&stab=0

The obvious thing to check is to see if the injectors are working or not... use a screwdriver or stethoscope on the metal retaining ring holding the fuel injector in place and see if it is making any noise when someone cranks it over. If not, it could be a wiring issue around the distributor, as I think they fire off the distributor or coil the same as the earlier 280's..... If they are clicking while turning it over, then it could be something as simple as a clogged fuel filter, fuel line or fuel pickup in the tank. If none of those items, we'll try to brainstorm up a few other things to check.... but ZX's aren't are strong suit... many of us are still carb people....