2ManyZs

205/60's will fit on a 6 inch rim, although, they would be close to the max you'd want to put on a 6 inch rim due to the tires tread and section width...You'll need to keep an eye on the tire wear, and adjust your tire pressure accordingly, as they may have a bit of odd wear (if you don't have the optimum tire pressure) due to it being about as wide as you'd want to go for a 6 inch rim If you got to a 50 series or 55 series, you would probably want to drop it back to a 195 for better tire wear.

Never seen one of VB's, but the MSA carpet kits I've had, I've had no complaints with.......

I've got a set of the "wobble" 3/8 drive extensions that work fairly well for getting onto the "hidden" ones under the intake/exhaust. At times, I've had to use two of them connected together to get the right angle so to get the socket on the nuts, but, with these, you can apply a lot more force than you can with the swivel sockets which will bind up and you can't apply enough force to break the nuts loose. It's either that, or try to use a box end wrench if at all possible, and open end can/will round off the nuts if you aren't careful, especially when working semi-blind as you are under the manifolds.......

Any chance you could post a pic of the wire in question? There's so many different wires on the FI cars that it would be almost impossible to figure out which one you are talking about.

Sounds like the mounting nut on the bottom of the lever is either loose, or the tapered bushings the lever inserts into are shot... You can still get the solid bushings for the A model shifter, which might help tighten up the shifting on yours. Try Chloe at MidwestZ, she probably can supply them.

Nope, sorry, the short shift kit only works on the B model transmissions.... There isn't much you could do to the A model due to the design of the shift lever linkage on the outside of the transmission.

Actually, we just had a discussion about this particular car, but I'll be darned if I can find the thread......:stupid: It's a nice car, but, it is not "All Original" as the seller states. The car has the early round top carbs and not the original 73 flat tops. And, there's a couple other small items that aren't quite original.....Plus, it's got what looks like a very old black paint job under the hood, which really hurts it's value. Definately lets everyone know that it is not truly "all original" as we all know it should be body color in the engine compartment. It's probably worth more than the average 73 you'd find on Ebay, but definately not what the seller claims in his ad as to the "appraised value".... My guess is, the car won't be bid much higher than 8K if it goes that high as most true enthusiasts will recognize the car as not being a true "original" car..... I'll try to find the other thread, just so you can get an idea what we "spotted" as not being quite right with the car.... Ah hah , here's the other thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=68136#post68136 I noticed he added a response to the black under the hood, says it's dealer added Ziebart? Jeez, glad the never got ahold of any of my cars, notice how the overspray is all over the fender lip where it attaches the fender?

Sorry Smokey, I couldn't resist..... it's just too funny..... I can almost imagine this on the cruisers in DC....:devious:

Hmm, I couldn't find my copy... glad someone had them handy, although, it is kinda hard to read.... You'll also find some tips in the Tech articles section http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1200

1. Jesse Jackson, Jim Baker and Jimmy Swaggert have written an impressive new book... It's called "Ministers Do More Than Lay People." 2. Transvestite: A guy who likes to eat, drink and be Mary. 3. The difference between the Pope and your boss....The Pope only expects you to kiss his ring. 4. My mind works like lightning. One brilliant flash and it is gone. 5. The only time the world beats a path to your door is if you're in the bathroom. 6. I hate sex in the movies. Tried it once. The seat folded up, the drink spilled and that ice, well, it really chilled the mood. 7. It used to be only death and taxes were inevitable. Now, of course, there's shipping and handling, too. 8. A husband is someone who, after taking the trash out, gives the impression that he just cleaned the whole house. 9. My next house will have no kitchen -just vending machines and a large trash can. 10. A blonde said, "I was worried that my mechanic might try to rip me off. I was relieved when he told me all I needed was turn signal fluid." 11. I'm depressed. My doctor refused to write me a prescription for Viagra. He said it would be like putting a new flagpole on a condemned building. 12. My neighbor was bitten by a stray rabid dog. I went to see how he was and found him writing frantically on a piece of paper. Said he was writing his Will. I told him rabies could be cured, he didn't have to worry about a Will. He said, "Will? What Will? I'm making a list of the people I want to bite!" 13. Definition of a teenager? God's punishment for enjoying sex. 14. As we slide down the banister of life, may the splinters never point the wrong way. 15. I signed up for an exercise class and was told to wear loose-fitting clothing. If I HAD any loose-fitting clothing, I wouldn't have signed up in the first place! 16. When I was young we used to go "skinny dipping," now I just "chunky dunk." 17. The early bird still has to eat worms. 18. The worst thing about accidents in the kitchen is eating them. 19. Don't argue with an idiot---people listening may not be able to tell who is which. 20. Wouldn't it be nice if whenever we messed up our life we could simply press 'Ctrl Alt Delete' and start all over? 21. Stress is when you wake up screaming and then realize you haven't fallen asleep yet. 22. My husband says I never listen to him----At least I think that's what he said. 23. Just remember...if the world didn't suck, we'd all fall off. 24. Why is it that our children can't read a Bible in school, but they can in prison? 25. If raising children was going to be easy, it never would have started with something called labor! 26. Brain cells come, and brain cells go, but fat cells live forever

I think he had it right the first guess.... looks a lot like the louvers seen on the early Supra's.... most of the Z louvers were shorter, or closer to the window.

Well, this sounds like a good question for our resident engine "guru" Phred. But, he'll need to know exactly what piston you have and whether it's a flat top or not. If Phred doesn't reply, you can send him a Private Message and ask him to respond to your question.....

Mark's right, it is probably just binding up in the splines of the slip yoke. You might need an extra set of hands to do it, but you'll need to keep the diff up high enough to keep the shaft fairly straight as you pull it out. There's very little play in those splines.

Well, I'm on my 5th Dodge since early 94, and haven't had more than minor problems with any of them... Of course, 2 of them have been Cummins diesels, so that might have something to do with it..... Most trouble free one I had was the 94, with the 318, 18-22mpg with a 1/2 ton 4x4 and put over 80K on it in less than 3 years while I was commuting.

Being a MOPAR kinda guy, I like it... but, it looks too much like a Lambo, Bugatti EB110, Ferrari clone..... Even has some of the Saleen S7 in it in places.........

Geez Craig, we can now see who the serious model builder is.. glass showcase, models out the wazzoo....:cross-eye I only wished I had the patience and steady hands I used to have.....can't seem to even find the box with all my modeling tools. Had to buy one of those "kiddie" kits at Wally World to put the Z together..... Used to be a place up in Scranton, Pa that had any kind of model and/or model supply you could think of, wish they were still in business. The guy that owned it was Oscar Koveleski, who also did a lot of racing in the old Can Am days.

C'mon Kmack, some of us know why you like Las Vegas:devious: Same reason I never miss it..... Nikki Cox and Vanessa Marcil. Same reason I never miss JAG... Catherine Bell..... As far as sitcoms go, one of the funniest in years was 8 Simple Rules, which, after the death of John Ritter will never be the same. I'll watch the one with Belushi (According to Jim) in it once in a while, but, it gets old after a while.... Now, you wanna talk about some shows that make me want to use the TV as target practice? How about: Queer Eye for the Straight Guy, Joe Schmo, Fear Factor, Average Joe or whatever the hell it is... and any of these other so called "reality" shows that have nothing to do with reality unless you are living in Hollywood and have a 50K a year cocaine addiction........ One thing I'm still trying to figure out, the networks seem to be having fun playing repeats in the middle of the year. One week, you get a new show, then the following week will be a repeat of one of the shows from the beginning of the season, then the following week, you're back to a new show again.....

Don't know about the Dan Gurney referrence, but they do look kinda neat.....Might look pretty good if someone gave them a good polishing.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2452339192&category=33744

Hard to find, but they do need a little TLC..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2452577216&category=33696

Shouldn't have any clearance problems on a 14x6 wheel with either 215's or the 225's.....especially since you know the offset is OK as they are a Z wheel to begin with. I had 225/60's on the ITS car with 0 offset 14x7's, and only had rubbing after putting the adjustable coil-overs on and dropping it to the minimum height, which is probably an inch or so lower than you'd see on the street. It only rubbed on the very top of the fender well during cornering, so all it took was a little bend in the fender lip to fix it....

You could, but, then you'd need to re-heat treat the rotor, as the heat from the drilling will affect the hardness of the metal. You could end up with a brittle rotor that cracks and causes a disaster. Drilling should be left to those with the proper equipment.

I've driven turbos and even a few supercharged/turbocharged diesels in the last 20 some years...... and I drive a Turbo diesel everyday......

He claims it is all original, yet it has the early carbs huh?:stupid: As far as I know, all the air cleaners were the same orange color, the one I had on my 73 was orange...The air filter housing on the 280 I had was a very similar color though.... The crappy black paint job in the engine compatment is not orginal either....... I'm not sure about the switch on the console either, it's not the OEM A/C "pod" that was on the 73's..... that I'm sure of. Now, what that switch is, is what I don't know.....

I'll add my 2 cents in on this one..... First off, grooved rotors do nothing for the braking ability. They used to a few years ago, when the brake pads used gave off a gas as they heated up and the slots were there to give the gas a place to go, besides between the pad and the rotor. This is a non-issue with todays brake pads, except perhaps for the bargain basement type pads at most "chain store" auto parts suppliers. The slots are there more for looks than function today, they do nothing to promote air flow across the rotor, or help trap heat in the rotor to prevent it from transferring the heat to the pads/cailpers/fluid..... Now, drilling the rotors does have a function, as it gives the rotor a bit more surface area for cooling, and it allows air to travel not only on the surface of the rotor, but also through the rotor, therefore aiding cooling to a certain extent. Will work only at its optimum if air is actually ducted to the rotors. Now for the point that will create much debate, and there is no definative answer to.. does drilling a "stock replacement" solid rotor aid cooling? IMO, only to a certain point, at which time it becomes a huge handicap. My opinion is this, up to a certain temp range, drilling a solid disc will aid cooling and braking, yet, when that threshold is crossed, the rotor has less mass to prevent warpage and cracking. It also has less mass to hold or store the heat that has built up, at which time the heat will transfer either to the pads/caliper/fluid, or the hub/bearings and cause more problems. Where that threshold is would have to be determined by a lot of on track testing, or in a controlled environment. IMO, a vented rotor is the best alternative even on that is stock. It has the mass to prevent warpage, and has a much large surface area, and, they benefit from having vanes built into the vented portion which will aid cooling even more. Drilling a vented rotor will give you even more cooling, without giving up too much rotor mass. Not only will the rotor have more surface area, but, with the vanes in the vented portion, it will allow "flow-thru" ventilation of the entire rotor surface to a small extent. Again, without ducted air to the rotor, the advantages are limited. In summary, drilled solid rotors would be best only on a street car, or an auto-X car where you will not be subjecting the rotor to extreme temps for a long period. If you will be using the brakes to the point where the rotors will be subjected to extended periods of high temps, then the only way to go is vented rotors if at all possible, or solid rotors with good ducting for fresh air. I'd much rather trash a set of solid rotors to warpage or heat checking, than to have a catastrophic brake failure due to overheated pads, or boiled fluid.....been there, done done both.

The time it takes the turbo to "spool" up to its max RPM and apply full boost to the intake tract after you open the throttle. Larger turbos normally take longer to spin up to its optimum boost RPM than smaller ones, although, today, the turbos are much more efficient than the ones they used 10 years ago or more. A lot of it has to do with the design and shape of the vanes and impeller in the turbo and how they work together with the shape of the housing. All turbo's will have some lag, as it takes time for the engine RPM's to increase enough to put out the exhaust flow required to speed up the turbo, which in turn will put more pressure or boost into the intake tract.