2ManyZs

Wow, you're right Michael, that does look like a "mugshot"..... only thing missing is your number.:cheeky:

You could check with Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings, he doesn't show any on his site at the moment, but he might know of one through his other contacts. http://www.datsunzparts.com/start.htm Or, check with the Thousand Island Z Club, there is a link to their site on Zedd Findings home page.

I hate to tell you this, but something isn't right with the rear valence. All the Z's up to 78 had the exhaust cut out in the same place as far as I know. If you look, MSA's Turbo exhaust is listed for 70-78... so, there can't be that much difference..... not 6 inches anyways. There might be a slight difference, but it isn't 6 inches.:disappoin 6 inches closer to the center of the car would put the exhuast right against the side of the gas tank(or even under the edge of it) and you would have no room for a muffler, and you wouldn't want the pipe against the tank in the first place.

New DO's are getting harder to find and higher in price than Webers and Mikuni's.... There is a guy on Ebay in Italy that sells them worldwide, althought they are used, everyone I have talked to that has bought from him has nothing but good things to say about him and his products. He also sells the rebuild kits and might possibly have other parts, such as jets etc.. if you were to ask him. His prices are more than fair, you can buy a set of triples for less than the few new DHLA 40's I've seen for sale. Hard to beat that, when you can get 3 for less than the price of one. Here's a link to his auctions, and remember to check his feedback, you won't find too many sellers on Ebay with that many sales and 99.9% positive feedback. http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=alfa1750&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

Well, it looks OK as long as the frame rail is sound.. If I were you, I think I would weld a small patch over the hole and a strip around the "kink" in the frame rail in the shape of a U. Once metal is kinked like that, it will not take much to make it bend again. I'd put a 2 or 3 inch wide strip, bent in a U to fit over the frame rail tightly and seam weld it, then grind the welds down so they don't show and repaint the spot. If there is any doubt as to how sound the frame rail is, it might be best to replace it in the near future.

And, like water, electricity will always seek out the shortest path, with the least amount of resistance. Since the clutch hose is the closest point to what the starter is mounted...... One of the reasons everyone is always advising checking the grounds first when diagnosing an electrical problem.

Since the engine and transmission are pretty much isolated from the rest of the chassis with the rubber engine mounts, the starter was trying to find a ground through the only metal conductor between the engine and chassis...

Good idea Smokey.... never thought about it before. :stupid:

Not sure which department it is, but the gov't does have an internet scam operation going as we speak. It was on the news the other day about all the scams they were busting up, such as identity theft, and scams such as this on Ebay and others.... You can try this..... http://www1.ifccfbi.gov/index.asp Here's the section about the scam. http://www1.ifccfbi.gov/strategy/11403NigerianWarning.pdf

Oops, I totally forgot the A/C equipped cars had a 3 row, but as to which year they started installing the 3 rows, I'm not sure, perhaps in late 74? I had a 73 with A/C many years ago and it had only a 2 row. 3 row is better than a 2 row, but, since you live in the southwest, it might not be a bad idea to spend the extra and get a 4 row, especially if you plan on using A/C....Better to spend a little extra on a radiator than to replace a warped head if it overheats.

Not only the shippers cost, but the cashiers checks in the scam are forgeries. You'd end up owing the bank money as well. Don't do it. And, if you find anyone using this forum trying to pull this scam, let us know immediately! They will be banned and reported!

The best manual to get is a Factory Service Manual. It sounds like it could be a problem with either the alarm system or the ignition relay. Or could be a comination of both. Try unhooking the alarm system first and see if that solves the problem. Lots of times, it is the alarm system that has a problem and won't allow the current to the ignition relay.

Get the best you can, water resistant and midlew proof. California Car Covers has a wide selection of brands to choose from. http://www.calcarcover.com/

The only bad news is the 280Z stock replacement radiator is a 2 row... just a larger core. FWIW, Motorsport Auto's 3 row radiator isn't much more expensive than most of the original replacements you will find. They also have a 4 row but that is getting into the expensive radiators. You can also use a Chevy style aluminum radiator from someone like Jegs or Summit Racing, you just need to find the one with the closest measurements....

Look here... http://www.datsunrestore.com/

Don't know about the ZX, but the 280 radiator will work. It will hang below the radiator support a few inches though as the core is taller. You will also need a different bottom hose IIRC..... The 280 rad will have the whole bottom tank hanging below the radiator support, so if you have a stock valence it will show, if you have an airdam it will hardly be noticeable.

Sounds more like a loose connection at the back of the tach itself. If it starts working after you tap on the tach, it sounds reasonable to me that something is loose in the tach itself. If it isn't a loose connection at the back of the tach, then it could be internal. Since you already ruled out the coil connections, there's only a couple more things it could be.

The last I knew you could still get them, I bought a set from MSA a couple years ago... These are just the repair panels though, not the full quarter. The go from the body line down and cover most everything from the marker light forward to just behind the door jamb..... Full quarters have been NLA for years.:disappoin Of course, fiberglass quarters used to cover everything from inside the door jamb to behind the marker light... but even they are becoming more scarce.

It would probably be a lot easier to just buy a replacement quarter from one of the suppliers, such as Motorsport Auto...last I knew they were about 150 bucks each... less labor this way. Unless the rust is in the fender lip, in which case you might find holes in the inner fender as well, which is another 90 or so for a new one. Parts cars usually have the same condition, that's usually why they are parts cars... hidden rust.:disappoin

It will fit with no trouble. The problems might be in the wiring harness if you try to use the 71 gauges and switches with the 70 harness in the car.. there might be a few differences in wiring plugs and connectors.

Well, here's a pic of the rear mount bar on my wrecked IT car. It's not the same as yours, but you'll see it does have short end links and mounts under the halfshaft..... Don't know who made this bar, but I think it might be an old GC item.... I'm looking at yours, and wondering if that is the right bar to begin with..... I don't remember them having that much bend in them. Or, could that possibly be a front mount bar? I think they have lot of drop to them to clear the halfshaft since the mounting point is bit higher than the rear mount bars. Seems like the rear mount bars I remember were a bit flatter than the one in your pic. And, the car is sitting up on jackstands if that isn't obvious...... Here's mine, and you'll notice it has very little clearance under the halfshaft. And yes, the end links are rod ends and the whole end of the bar doesn't mount like a stock one....and no, it's not for sale. :devious:

Send a PM to Kmack, he found stainless allen head screws that fit.. he could tell you what exact size you'd need to replace them.... You could probably pick them up at most hardware stores, ot Home Depot/Lowe's.....

MSD says it requires a tach adapter as well.... don't ask me how it's wired up cuz the car is in pieces... Just for the heck of it, you could try a jumper wire to the - side of the coil and see if it works that way.

I'm kinda wondering how they expect the tach to work if the wires are connected together.....:cross-eye One of the wires should be to the - side of the coil so the tach gets a signal or it won't work at all.... unless they have it wired into the Crane ignition that is getting it's signal form the dizzy somewhere else.... FWIW, the race car I have, the PO connected the tach to the MSD ignition which according to MSD and everyone else wouldn't signal the tach, but oddly, it worked just fine.

Working inside the door can be a major problem if you have big hands:cross-eye Worst part of it all is the sharp edges in the door cutouts. Be careful of the plastic clips holding some of the door striker arms and such together, they tend to get very brittle with age.