2ManyZs

If all you want is pics for ideas on interior mods, take a look in our gallery under Events and look for car show pics from the MSA show and others...

Impact driver, or a small set of vice gips... You can replace them if you mess up the heads with screws from the hardware store.. I believe they are number 10 screws.

See this thread.... I knew I had seen one somewhere.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3174&highlight=Cam+tower+torque

You've only got one choice truthfully... find a parts car. The bumpers, and bumper shocks are going to be the hardets thing to find. Everything else is easy. Odd how the bumpers for 280's are harder to find than for the 240's now..... Rear quarter is gonna take quite a bit of work, unless of course, you choose to replace it with a replacement panel, which might be the cheapest and easiest alternative, considering how much labor might go into straightening it correctly. Not trying to be smart... but you might want to think about one of those "100 dollar jewels" to drive in the winter, if it gets banged up, throw it away.... ought to be plenty of rusty old Chevy or Ford sedans around you could pick up really cheap.

Just to get one question I have out of the way, it will run, but runs like crap right? What do the plugs look like after you have it running? Fouled? Carbon fouled or perhaps gas fouled? What I'm thinking is, the carb may be set way too rich for the 6... or it could be set too lean... the Holley would have more than likely been set up for a V-8 at the factory, thereby making it too rich for a 6 cylinder. Does it have a manual or electric choke? Are the float levels set where they should be? How about the accelerator pump? There are bunch of possibilities all right there in the carb that may or may not be causing a lot of the trouble. That would be where I would look to first. Then, if you have eliminated a possible rich/lean condition with the carb, you will have a better idea where to go to next.

I hate to burst your bubble, but finding aluminum slots in anything larger than 15 inch is going to be next to impossible. Most manufacturers discontinued that type of wheel even before 16 and 17 inch wheels were on the market. You might find slots still available for older US muscle cars if you can find one in the correct lug pattern, but, they will most likely be in a 15 inch wheel. Mesh style, "Panasport" or "Watanabe" style wheels should still be available from manufacturers other than Panasport. You will be looking for 5 lug wheels, which will help you immensely, since most manufacturers have discontinued their 4 lug applications, at least for RWD vehicles.

No huge benefit as far as I can see, unless you were going to use the later 15/16 master cylinder off a 280ZX. But, without knowing what type of brakes you are running, hard to judge any benefit. For stock brakes, I'd say it would be a waste of money to go larger on the booster or the master at all. For 4 piston calipers in front and rear discs, you'd need the larger master but the stock booster should be OK with that set up. Truthfully, I don't know that there is that much difference between the 240 and 280 booster at all, so any benefit would be incremental at best.

GT-2 has been pretty much taken over by Toyotas, 944, 924, 300ZX and now 350Z bodied full tube frame cars. Used to be the domain of the Sunbeam Tigers, 240's, 280's, and others. Read? EXPENSIVE! Many of the newer cars are in the 50K and up to 100K range as far as buying a new one. All new GT cars must be full tube frame, solid rear axle, fiberglass bodied cars. The only semi-tube frame cars are ones that have been raced for years, so they are "grandfathered" into the class by virtue of being classed in GT before the new prep rules were implemented. Restricted rules as far as engine prep and types, intake, and all that. More exotic engines than IT or EP, which also means more expense. A new "regional only" class called SPU and SPO or Super Production could be a good alternative, pretty much anything goes as long as it meets GT class safety standards as far as cage etc...Most regions run it, with differing class structure, some have the U/O limit set at 2 litres, others it's 2.5 litres of displacement. I've been thinking about SPO if I fix the old IT car, as the Limited Prep EP rules for the Z are kinda restrictive, ie. no 5 speeds, run stock rear diffs(no R-200's), specified brake sizes.... In SPO you could run a 5 speed, R-200 rear diff, any size tires and wheels, triples, any cam, L-28, yadda, yadda, yadda.....all you would need is a full cage built to EP specs, fuel cell, cut off switch, or the same safety equipment you'd need in EP. BTW, he syas it's "prepped" for GT-2, but before anything, you would need to see if it would be allowed if it doesn't already have a GT class log book. Unless of course it's a full tube frame car.

Errr, you were referring to hanging the bikes from the ceiling right Mark? Not the culprit causing the door dings?

Before you go to far, have you looked at your fuel supply yet? Does the car idle OK and only get the pop under acceration? How about under steady throttle? I'm wondering if you either have a fuel supply problem due to junk in the tank that might only be clogging the fuel pickup, or a clogged fuel line or filter. Have you tried to richen the mixture on the carbs or do anything with the carbs yet? The timing issue might be that someone had the dristributor drive gear out at one time and it is one tooth off on the carnk drive gear. Easy enough to fix if you have to later. I'd be willing to bet it's a carb related (most likely a lean condition since the choke seems to help) or fuel pickup related problem. Best thing to do is if you aren't going to replce the flat tops with round tops, you ought to do a thorough check on the carbs. Mainly vacuum leaks at the throttle shafts, sticking needle, low fuel level in the float chamber... the list is long....

I've heard nothing but praise for the ones that Classic Datsun Motorsports sells. http://www.classicdatsun.com/

Hmm, looks like what mine would if I had another bay on mine...:devious: At least you haven't started using one car to store parts form another inside to save room... or have you?:cross-eye

Since you sound like you are fairly certain it isn't a wheel/tire issue. It does sound like it could be U-joints, the diff itself, stub axle bearings, or perhaps something as simple as a dragging brake shoe? I'd check the U-joints first, then start with the brakes, check them over completely, then go with the diff possibility last.

Why be sad? At least now the restored 240 is in the hands of someone who will actually appreciate it. Since he obviously thinks more of the 350 (nadaZ) than he did for his Z Store car, then he shouldn't complain. Reminds me of a line from one of the Indiana Jones movies... "You have chosen foolishly" :stupid:

Nope, no triples allowed in IT or EP in road racing. The only class they would be allowed in would be GT or SP. Solo is a different matter, but the lower classes only allow stock induction, so you'd probably have to go into a Modified class.

What annoys me is people like this get away with outright fraud and Ebay doesn't seem to care that it is happening. Can't even e-mail the guy that is bidding on it... guess he'll get what he deserves if he buys the POS....

What had me confused is why your car has the earlier master in the first place, as your VIN indicates that it should have the later "cheaper" style. Evidently a PO has changed it over somewhere in its life. If I were you, I'd change it back to the later one and save your money as it doesn't need the early style to be "period correct". I've got access to a 260 parts car and a 280, so if you want the piping necessary to change it, I can try to get the lines off and ship them to you. Might take a couple days for the weather to clear enough to go back in the woods though.....

Try Andy Russell. E-mail him at z@datsundude.com

Looks like a Z31 diff to me... 83 or later maybe? Finned cover and the lenght of it says late ZX model.

I think he needs to go pee in a bottle... He's so full of it, it's all over the Internet. Can you say POS? With a half-arsed body kit?

Have no idea what he's talking about, cuz camber has nothing to do with wheels. These are for a Honda or Acura, so I'm gonna say you will need wheel spacers to run them on a Z, becuse they have so much positive offset. If they are 7 inch wide or more, you'll need the spacers to get the rim and tire away from the spring perch and spring itself. Unless you are planning on doing the adjustable coil overs, even still, you might end up with spacers.

That's the early style master. You have two choices, you can use the later style but you will need to change the lines underneath, or buy the expensive master. FWIW, if you could find a parts car with the later style master, you could unbolt the lines at the bottom of the master, and the lines into the pressure differential switch(the block under the master on the inner fender) and swap the whole thing over. Just for the heck of it, what is your VIN number and build date? Just wondering if you have one of those early/late cars with a mixture of parts.