2ManyZs

Hmm, maybe that's why I haven't seen any of the Group 44 cars... he snuck out of here and moved to warmer weather...:disappoin He used to have his cars in a hanger at the Winchester, VA airport just down the road from his old race shop that Tom Milner (PTG) used, of course, maybe he's moved too.... Used to watch Tullius' T-6 flying over doing rolls and loops back years ago before Brian crashed it and lost his life. Unfortunately, I never saw him flying this one over the house, but people have said he used to "buzz" the track with the P-51 during the Vintage races for fun.... http://www.fot-racing.com/historic/caption/mustang.htm

First thing I would do is pull the carpet and the drain plugs in the floors and let it dry out as quick as possible. Once it starts to dry out, take some WD-40 and pull any of the electrical harness plugs you suspect might have gotten under water and spray them as well as the plug wires, under the cap and then change all the fluids to be sure. Engine oil and transmission to be sure, and perhaps even the diff fluid if it sat in the water very long. If a seal is seaping even the slighest bit, it would have allowed water to get in there. I'd also put the car up on jackstands and check the drains on the frame rails, if they are plugged, unplug them. I doubt just driving through the water did all that much damage, but to be sure, you ought to park it and let it dry as much as possible before you start using it again.You might end up having to buy replacement carpets if they are soaked, mildew is going to be your worst enemy with the carpets and backing.

Can't forget about the noise..... the pressure waves out of the exhaust will make your eyes blurr..... and the fumes will make your eyes water from 50 feet away. I stood in the timing tower at a local drag strip when they brought the alcohol funny cars to the line... and even they would make the whole tower shake.

Don't say old Steve......:disappoin I was a huge fan of IMSA in the "Glory Days" of racing, not only the GTP cars, but also the GTO and GTU cars as well. Unfortunately, I never got to see a GTP race in person, but I did see a couple GTO/GTU races in person at Summit Point, WV. I was always an AL Holbert/ Bob Tullius fan until the Nissan entered the fray. From then on it was Geoff Brabham all the way....:classic: Still an admirer of the cars, especially the Nissan, the 962 and the Jaguar of Group 44's. Nothing today even comes close to the looks of those old cars. Seems every time I miss the big Vintage race that Brian Redmon puts on every year at SP, that is usually the year that Tullius has had his GTP car there....:disappoin Oh, can't forget the 240SX GTU cars that the Leitzinger's drove either... they were quite a sight.

The carbs look like they haven't been used in a while, the manifold looks to have a lot of deep scratches from someone trying to do a port matching job.... IMO, his 550 starting bid is more what I'd expect a high bid to be.... I'd say this would be a better deal. Besides, we know we can trust the seller. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10059

My opinion is they might be OK on a front driver or smaller car, but not on a Z.... 2 reasons, too much positive offset(and they don't match) and they aren't the same width front and rear. Would make for an ill handling car IMO....

Hard to be sure, but it looks a lot like a stock 280 wheel with the spokes painted silver instead of black.

Err.. you forgot to post the pic....

Actually he has too many rusty Z's in his yard....hope at least one of them is in good enough shape that it can be saved.....

Well, let's hope that's the problem anyways.... guess it should have dawned on one of us in the first place that this could be the problem. The difference between the different collars is 4mm, or less than 1/4 inch, but, due to the fact you would have been trying to compress the fingers of the pressure plate while installing it, it might have been at least 1/2 inch or better. Better to find this out now, otherwise, you'd have had a slipping clutch and a throw-out bearing that only lasted a few weeks.... FWIW, when it dawned on me, it took me almost an hour to find that link to the different collars. I knew I had seen it somewhere, but couldn't remember where....:stupid:

And I just looked on ZeddFindings web-site and he shows a couple for 50 bucks.....unless Charlie hasn't updated his site in a while that is. Save you some shipping and customs fees that way. http://www.datsunzparts.com/suspension.html

I wouldn't force it as you might end up causing yourself even more grief.... First, double check the input shaft of the trans to make sure it isn't bent. Lay a straight edge on the splines and measure it to make sure the end of the input shaft (or snout) that goes into the pilot bearing is straight. If that is OK, I think I may have the problem solved.... and then again not... Which throw out bearing collar are you using? You should be using the one that came with the 5 speed, not a 4 speed collar as they are longer. If for some reason you have a 4 speed collar in there, the throw out bearing is coming into contact with the pressure plate fingers before the trans can be fully seated and this could be what is keeping it from seating. Probably one of us should have thought of that a while ago.... :stupid: Check what you have against this: http://www.zparts.com/zptech/comparisons/pages/4tobear_specs1.html

I've never used them on a Z, but I have used them a lot when I worked in a truck repair shop. They work very well, but you have to be very careful when installing them. They are used a lot on trailers, since the spindle is part of the axle itself, it gets expensive to replace the whole axle assembly(or take it off to have it machined) simply because you have a small groove worn into the spindle and the seals won't seat correctly. I'd say the largest user of these would be tractor trailers, since they cover 100K+ miles a year, and the seals wear out so much quicker than passenger cars. Second largest user would probably be the vintage car restorers, as sometimes new or reman spindles just aren't available for every vehicle you would come across.

Hmm, hope you're not referring to me, cuz my parts car looks a lot better than that. Mine has four tires that hold air...

He's probably charging a flat rate shipping/handling fee.... for this, a padded envelope and about 2.00 or less in postage..... Or, he's trying to make up some of his lost profit since the bid didn't go as high as he would have liked. FWIW, I tend to stay away from auctions that won't post their shipping/handling fees, for exactly this reason.

I agree, it would be nice to know what we are looking at, or at least a little more about it.......:devious:

First thing I would check is the U-joints, diff mounts, diff itself and perhaps the stub axle bearings as a last resort. Could also be a transmission center bearing on the main shaft, but you wouldn't hear the clunking on shifts but a more constant whine.

I've been using the aluminum oxide in my blasting cabinet for years and like the results. It does a good job on all but the toughest rust, just have to take your time and sometimes go over it twice with the worst stuff. I've used about 100lbs in the last 4 or 5 years, it does turn to dust after a while, but it holds up pretty good considering the use it got when I was sandblasting every piece of the suspension off my car. I've also used glass bead on aluminum with good results as well. Note, this is in a cabinet where you don't lose any media. For a blaster outside or where it's going to be diffuicult to recover and re-use the media, plain old play sand is the way to go. Cheap, and does a decent job, all you have to do it make sure it is dry before you use it.

Here's the chart. I couldn't find it on their web-site so I scanned it out of their newest catalog.

2 others.... Silicon Carbide, which is a one of the harshest cutting abrasives, used for glass etching. Poly or plastic media, which is good for cleaning softer metals such as aluminum and brass. Eastwoods has a nice little chart that shows the types of projects you might need to use the abrasives on, and which ones are good, better and best for each as well as the recommended pressures for each. Don't know if it is on their webs-site or not, if not, I'll try to scan it so you can get an idea of which media is good for what.

The VIN numbers on the Z's do not show anything except the chassis designation and the number the chassis was off the line. Unfortunately, unlike US manufactureres and others, Nissan didn't "code" their VIN numbers to show what the car had for equipment. Nor did they use a "fender tag" with the optional equipment that was installed. Back in the 70's, most of the next years models cars were started somewhere around Sept, but, with the Z's coming by ship from Japan the transit times may have played into the year the car was titled as, due to it's arrival in the US. Or, when it was loaded on the ship, cars might have been missed in the lot and not shipped until the next shipment went out. I've seen a couple Z cars that were built in Sept and titled as the following year, while a car that was built in August was titled the previous year. So, it's almost impossible to pin down an exact date the change-over occured. Today's manufacturers (especially US manufacturers) have put out a new model year car as early as May or June.... in other words, today they change the model year any time they choose.

Pull the bulb sockets out of the turn signals and check them, check the connector that should be near the front tow hook in front of the radiator where the turn signal connects to the main harness. Double check the throw on the turn signal lever itself. Sometimes the plastic column cover moves and doesn't allow full contact on the switch. Like Enrique said, your not the first, nor will you be the last with this problem. You should find some other neat little "tricks" in other posts if you can't find the problem right off.

The "B model" transmission shifter bushings are still available. It's the solid bushings for the early "A" model transmission that are getting harder to find.

Err, it's pretty obvious when you have the build date as to when it was built.:cross-eye It was built in July of 70 so it should be titled as a 70. It was the 7,736th HLS30 car off the production line.

It's possible, but I'd imagine it's gonna be kinda expensive to have the fiberglass plated.. and then there's the waviness that is usually associated with fiberglass parts. The "euro" style bumpers are still available as far as I know, or shoudl I say they were not too long ago. Set you back about 700 or so, front and rear.:disappoin I think the cheapest alternative would be to weld up the holes on the ones you have now if they don't have any dents that need attention and have them re-plated, but I don't know what a plater would charge.