2ManyZs

Sounds like either the clutch itself died, or either the clutch master cylinder, or slave cylinder might have given up..... Double check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder, and if that is OK, check that the slave cylinder has travel when someone else depresses the clutch. If that has a good bit of travel and looks to be working OK, sounds like the pressure plate may have given up. You didn't do it... old age did.....

Mine has the same thing, it's factory. The only place on a Z that didn't get a spot weld is what you pictured. The ones over the T/C mount look better than the ones that were one mine that's for sure. I've seen some that hung down an inch.

All I can say is, I don't remember ever seeing one like that in the US... looks like it's shaped like a "spook", just longer. Must be something made in Australia.... or Japan?

A "half moon" box end probably would work pretty well... might be a better idea than using a cheap box end and end up with rounded off nuts.... Hmm, too bad all my half moon box ends aren't metric... guess I'll go look on the Craftsman site and see if I can find one..

Funny thing about both those pics, is how much it reminds me of the Ferrari Maranello in a side shot.. and probably more than one Ferrari at that... It's kinda funny how many people put body kits on a Z to change it's looks, yet this is probably the first time anyone has ever made a kit to make another car look like a Z....

Only thing I ever saw in Aiken, SC was the W.R. Grace mine....:tapemouth Picked up a lot of "dirt" and took it to the Manville plant in Laurinburg, NC so they could make railroad brake shoes with it... try going into that place when it's 99 degrees out and come out clean.....:cross-eye

If the nuts are on the backside of the diff flange and not inside the driveshaft yoke that ought to be easier than the nuts being on the inside of the U-joint yoke. The studs should be in the diff flange and not the drive shaft if I remember right. Only way I've ever been able to get the nuts off is with an open end wrench about a 1/4 turn at a time until they loosen enough to get them off with your fingers. If the nuts are on the inside of the U-joint cavity, turn the driveshaft so the bolt is at the 6 o'clock position and do one at a time. That opens up the cavity as far as it's gonna get. Oh the most important thing, don't use a cheap open end wrench or you're gonna round them off.

Wonder if the conversation at Mark's dinner table tonight was about moving south, or southwest....

texasz don't feel bad, mine is an 11/70 and our Vins are 6533 apart.... guess they were really cranking them out by then... over 2000 a month. I just wish I had a four digit VIN...

Before you decide you ought to run the car through a car wash just to see if the T-Tops leak... If it weren't for the shoddy repair jobs it wouldn't make a bad "parts-chaser"..... well, unless you really don't want an automatic that is..... Judging by the similar cars on Ebay, they don't seem to have a lot of interest in the 82-83's unless they are Turbo's....or at least that's what the bids reflect. I'm not even going to hazard a guess on what it's worth....but considering there's an 82 on Ebay with a 5 speed and some rust showing and no bids at a starting point of 2K yet.... And if you could get it for a really low price, you could always use it to donate parts like the disc brakes and maybe the engine for your 280 if you wanted too....shame it doesn't have a 5 speed....

My first guess would be a wiring issue somewhere between the dizzy and the coil possibly.. the abnormal tach reading points to an electrical problem somewhere in that area since that's where your tach picks up its signal. But then, I'd be just guessing since electical problems stump me worse than any...

Doing the floors is a labor intensive job, which means, even if you have the welding ability and the tools, the job will require patience and working slowly and accurately to do the best job. Probably the worst part of the job is taking off the old tar mat off the stock pans so you can see what you really have to work with. One word of caution I would like to say is don't cut anything out of your floors until you get your replacements. Not all the replacement panels are the same. The best ones from ZeddFindings and the Premium pan kits from MSA are identical as they come from the same place, however, if you get the cheaper ones, there may be a lot of small differences in them. It's always best to cut out your old floors using a pattern off the new replacements. Remember, you can always trim to fit, but to fill in holes, you're gonna be doing even more cutting and fitting, welding,etc....

The 89-94 240SX caliper is what Modern Motorsports kit is designed for, although, I don't know if the caliper bracket is the same as the one for the 280ZX caliper. They might be similar, but I don't know if the 280Zx caliper and the 240SX caliper will bolt to the same bracket, such as the Maxima bracket. The 240SX caliper is what is recommended by many as the pad area is a little larger then the pad in the ZX caliper and the E-brake hardware is easier to hook up. I found a set of reman 240SX calipers on Ebay for roughly 120 bucks. Not cheap, but not all that expensive either. Now all I need is the bracket and rotor and I'm all set.. one of these days..... If I'm not mistaken, the 84 300ZX rotor is slighly larger in diameter than the 280ZX rotor....

Well, I can't seem to find the diagram I thought was posted somewhere... but I did find this thread on HybridZ. Seems no one likes the one wire GM alternator and most prefer to use either the GM internally regulated, 280ZX internally regulated, or the Maxima alternator in their Z's. If you read through the thread, maybe something will sound familiar with something you may have in your car. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=305&highlight=gm+alternator

I think the part that has people afraid to hazard a guess on what could be wrong is the fact you've had so many things happen at once that the problem could be most anywhere.... Did you do the single wire GM alternator conversion according to a wiring diagram? I know I've seen one somewhere for the conversion, but it might take some scrounging to find the right site again.....:stupid:

Here's the link to MSA's 70-74 air dam page Mike, they might have some different ones if you try the body kit page as well. Those would probably be the Kaminari's and Xenon's though. I kinda like the fiberglass valence with the small lip at the bottom, less likely to get hit on something and crack it as it doesn't sit quite as low.... Take yer pick..... http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=7AD1

I was just thinking that it would look good on the S13 convertible too....if you can find one that isn't an automatic that is.....wonder if they are going to import it? With the number of S13's you see on Ebay that already have the SR20DET conversion done, they could sell quite a few.

I've been able to get Moog parts at the local Napa store... Don't know if all Napa stores carry them though..... Or, you could check with Chloe at MidwestZ and see what she can supply.

All I can say is...:tapemouth The passengers side rail looks like a homemade one... the 280 rails end just before the where the floor makes the transition to the wheel well area, if I remember right, it only about 6 inches or so longer than the 240 rail. That car looks to be more of a project car than a daily driver. Definately needs floor pans and frame rails, doubt these would last long, and the worry of them failing would have me nervous everytime I hit a pothole. Add in the battery tray area needing work........ It might not take a big expense (lots of labor though) to make it a daily driver, but you'd have to do some pretty major repairs to make it reliable. Only way I'd go for it, is if I were planning on fixing it correctly, driving it for a couple years, then trying to sell it for a profit as the number of 1970 production cars for sale gets smaller and smaller. Most of the sub 1000 VIN numbered cars are already in the hands of the more serious collectors, so this car could appreciate in couple years if it were fixed correctly. Shame it couldn't have been in the hands of someone that fixed things right the first time.

That must be a "professional model" kazoo... Even has a wrist strap.

Errr yup, that's the one of them Chloe... guess I got to many pages bookmarked....:stupid: There was another pic that had them side-by-side from the rear... dunno where I put that one... Thanks. Guess if I wasn't so lazy, I could have just taken the camera out in the garage and made my own side-by-side pic....hate hefting those things out from under the shelves when I don't have too...

I don't remember if I got all the way through the last one...so I can't remember what was there before.....:stupid:

Sorry, I went looking for an old thread that might have had what you wanted to know in it and haven't found the right one yet ........so many threads, so little time..... The easiest way to distinguish a 180 from the 200 is the rear cover. The 180 has a cover that is closer to being flat than the 200. The 200 also has the mustache mounting studs on an extended part of the cover while the 180 cover has more of just a raised flat area. The vent is also another give away, the 180 is further to the right and closer to the mounting flange of the cover, while the 200 is more in the center and farther away due to the raised section of the cover. There's a pic on one of the sites that has them side by side but I haven't found it yet, I thought it was on the Datsun Garage site....

It might depend on how they install on the pedals, it might work with no trouble, and then it might take a little modifications to your existing pedals. Some of the pedal sets I've seen only clamped over the top of the existing pedals, and then there are some that are made to bolt through the existing pedals with the mounting bolts made to look like they were part of the design of the pad. I've got a set, that I can't remember where I got, that clamp over the stock pedals, but it doesn't fit over the throttle pedal as well as I'd like. The stock pedal is a bit longer than the pad and still shows a bit. I'm going to take a throttle pedal out of my parts car and cut it off and drill mounting holes and mount the pads with counter sunk bolts. Best thing to do is ask if it will work before you shell out the bucks.

Phred, so that people can decide which is better for their engine, do you have some kind of baseline which would help people choose whether the 40's or 45's would suit their engines? Such as a minimum CR, valve size, head preference and cam specs? I think we all know that 40's are probably too much for a bone stock engine, but is there a set of parameters that should be met before you can go from 40's to 45's?