2ManyZs

It's a brand new part that has sat unsold on a shelf either at a dealer, or in warehouse for a car that is usually no longer produced, hence the "old stock. Could also be for a car that is over a certain age as well, since some model lines are on their 3rd or 4th "generation". Or a part that has been superceded by another part, and the original part was never sold out completely. Nearly the same as the term "OEM" (original equipment manufacturer) but not always......

I was wondering if that was you Ben.... Wish I had the money and the room to store them.:disappoin I've got one for the later 240 and it takes up a lot of room in my cramped attic in the garage.

Hmmmm....Have to think about that one Chloe...:devious:

I'd be willing to bet a lot of them got replaced with a grease fitting not only because people wanted to be able to grease the rack manually, but also because they stand up so high they ended up getting snapped off by mistake. Out of the 4 racks I have in the garage, only one has one. One has a plug, and the other 2 have zerk fittings..... Here's a pic of the good one on my 71....

The main reason the 4 screw are more desirable is that they use 4 screws to mount the dome, which keeps the dome alignment in the proper postion relative to the carb body, which lessens the chance of piston binding. It just makes it less likely the dome can be installed off center enough that the piston could possibly bind in its travel.

Cutting out the whole rear quarter would breach the uni-body structurally, but, if it is re-installed correctly it will be as good as new. In some cases, if it were seam welded in places that the factory used the small spot welds, it would probably end up strenghtening the chassis somewhat. The main thing is, having someone install it correctly. Finding NOS complete factory rear quarters is difficult enough, and finding a pair for an early car is nearly impossible, so these are well worth the money. I know I'd be bidding on them if I had the extra cash.:devious: The supplies are getting to the point that the only rear quarters to be found are the 1/2 quarter repair panels, and they don't replace the hardest part to repair in an accident, which would be the hatch/taillight area.

With all the false claims of rare parts on Ebay, these rear quarters are truly rare, and are probably going to be very expensive too....:cross-eye http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=mr_datsun&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

Moly and/or the white lithium grease is usually quite a lot lighter than the normal wheel bearing grease. It still will attract and hold dirt, but it's a lot lighter grease and won't be affected by cooler temps like the heavier grease will. Plus, any excess will likely drop off instead of making a great big gob that attracts and holds a lot of dirt and other contaminants. I've use the white lithium grease on mine with OK results. The same light grease you might use on bearings when installing them in a new engine. You might have to re-apply it a little more often, but, you will end up keeping the linkages a lot cleaner if you are forced to clean and grease it more often right? Ha, found it.....here ya go, hope this helps explain what we were trying to say... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5545

The only thing I would advise against is the graphite to lube the plastic or nylon joints. It would more than likely end up slowly grinding away the nylon. I'd use either a moly grease, or plain bearing grease and just watch them, and when they start getting dirty, clean them and do it all over again. Graphite between metal and nylon, I think the nylon would wear out prematurely. And I think somewhere in all the myriad of posts is one by Daniel that describes bending the one the runs horizontal to the firewall slightly that will give it a better arc when using the throttle. With it being straight, it is pushing in too straight a line when you first apply the throttle. If I can find the thread I'll post the link if you don't find it first.

Err, Rick, you have noticed in the rules you can't use the 5 speed right? You can only run 4 forward gears, as stock. Of course, there is nothing that says you can't mix and match the gears as long as they fit in the stock case. This is only my opinion, but I'd save the money for the Tilton pedal assemblies the first year and go for a fiberglass hood and front fenders and work on getting the car down to minimum weight first. Then the second year go for a Quaiffe diff and the Tilton pedals,and maybe a dry sump, and, and, and...... Since with the ZX calipers the 15/16th master ought to do the trick you could cut one little corner until you get more seat time and HP to play with... Just as an example, Mike Unger ran his 240 at Summit this year in EP for 2 races, and with nothing more than an IT motor, mildly hopped up, and bolting on a set of slicks, he ran within 2 seconds of the race leader with his Full Prep RX-7's..... not bad for a SVRA vintage car with steel fenders, hood, and stock brakes (IT prepped)..... :cross-eye Actually, he equalled the winners fastest lap and was gaining on him at the end of the race. I think you'll find the regional EP cars usually run about 2 seconds slower than Nationally prepped cars...

Personally, I'd go with a set of 4 screw SU's from ZTherapy if money permits. I've heard that the four barrel conversions sometimes have fuel distribution issues that can cause some cylinders to run leaner than others because of the way the runner of the intake are designed. If you look at one, you'll see #1 and #6 intake runner are considerably longer than the ones for 3 and 4. The SU manifolds have nearly equal runner lenghts for all cylinders.

If the indicator isn't working, I'd say it's in the switch contacts. You'd have to find out what caused the "smoke" first or you'll end up causing more trouble when you fix the switch.

Fiberglass fenders and hood and some of the other pieces are still available. If you are asking about fiberglass replacement panels for the chassis, it can't be done without compromising the integrity of the uni-body. If it were a body on frame such as the Roadsters are, you'd see plenty of replacement parts. The only thing that would be strong enough to replace the steel panels in the uni-body would be carbon fiber or some of the other space age composites, but they would be way to expensive to be a viable alternative.

That's about right as far as the time is concerned, although I never actually timed mine. It takes a long time for mine to work, and considering it's the first 240 I've ever had that had a working rear defroster, I am not going to complain. Once it heats up, it will keep quite a bit of moisture off the glass and works pretty well.

Look here for a nice little engine calculator download. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292&highlight=L+engine+calculator It will work fine, a simple straighforward bolt on. The only thing that you might want to do is to upgrade the valves to the larger 280 valves so the head will flow better to feed the larger displacement engine. Compression ratio is going to depend on what has been done to the head, block and which pistons, head gasket, and a few other variables are chosen.

Makes me wish I'd bought 2 or 3 extra sets when I got mine...:stupid: :disappoin

I would be very surprised if this is a true vapor lock probelm on a 78 with FI... It sounds to me more like either an ignition problem or a fuel injection problem. It could be a combination of both, or one problem that affects both. First thing I would do, is to do a complete and thorough tune up, including replacing the coil. Check all vacuum lines and replace any that are questionable. Check all the wiring harness connections for looseness and/or corrosion, probably all the way back to the ingition switch to be sure it's not something simple. If that doesn't help, you'll need to trouble shoot the FI system, especially the temperature sensors, AFM, and fuel pump relay and pump itself. If you don't have one already, before you start, get yourself a Factory Service Manual. I can't begin to tell you the benefits of having a good manual when troubleshooting the FI and elctronic ignition on a 280.

You want new or used? I've got a 72 you can have the brake lines off.. free.. if you come and take them off. I'm not delivering to Kuwait that's for sure..... Maybe Chloe can tell us if the new ones are still available....

Those bumper guards aren't for a Z.... It might be rare to see a 73 in NJ that hasn't been run over, or rusted out completely....this one still needs a bit of work though. Doubt it's worth shipping due the the possible rust issues that could be hiding underneath.

If you put the 280 valves in the E-31, and do a little port matching on the head, intake and exhaust (header?) it should come fairly close to the P-90. And you'll end up with a better compression ratio to boot(if neither head has been shaved) because of the smaller chamber in the E-31. If you have flat top pistons in the F-54, you should end up around 9.5:1 with the compression depending on machine work done to the block and head.

Well, if Andy can't get you a new one and you need one for a 72, I think I have a couple used ones in the shop. If the one you have is for a 71, we could just trade as I could use a spare for my 71. Oh, if you don't get an answer from Andy right away, I've got his price list here I can e-mail you that also has his phone number. PM me with your home e-mail addy and I can forward it to you.

What you need to do is find out exactly when your's was built and get the correct switch. There are a lot of small differences in the dash wiring harness that make it nearly impossible to swap between the years. Up to 71 will have one type of connector, 72's will have another and the 73's are not the same as any of the years.....all depends on the production date as some were changed mid-year. Not only the headlight switch but also the turn signal and there are probably a few others as well. If you can't find one, MidwestZ should have them, or MSA can probably get the correct one for your particular year of car. I also know that Andy Russell z@datsundude.com has them for a decent price too.... Don't hack up the harness if at all possible, you may regret it later. And, buying a used one is usually a waste of money when you can get new parts that you know will last. A used one could end up causing more problems in the long run, as it could cause a "hot-melt" in the fuse box and that will cost you even more to replace.

I never said anything against a "dimer" ZMeC... I might have made fun of you wanting one that was some retina burning yellow but it was only because of the color you chose.....:cross-eye

I wouldn't trust it, nor would I trust the frame rails to be strong enough. I've seen too many 280's with rusty frames. You might be better off to rent a tow dolly. Better it gets there in one piece for sure than to take a chance.

When they were interviewing people on the news tonight who had lost their homes, I was thinking when they catch the morons who supposedly started a couple of the fires they should let the homeowners have a crack at them. With a golf club.....better than putting them in jail...