2ManyZs

Hmm, with that kind of power to the wheels and a 4:37 or 4:62 diff, just think what you could do... and with the ZX 5 speed, it would be almost still streetable.. might be a bit "busy" on the interstate though..... Shame, there was a 5:88 R-190 LSD on Ebay a week or so ago... bet that could have put it in the 12's with no trouble if you could shift it fast enough.

Hmm, good question. I've never tried to pull the cable apart. I know that a lot of cables are made so that you can't replace the cable unless you cut one end off it, as the ends aren't big enough to go through the casing. Then you have to put the end on the cable itself after you install the new one in the casing..... If it won't move after removing the oil seal in the end, you might be just as well off trying to find a whole new cable assembly and just do what you have to to hide the small excess. Plus, if it won't move at all, it's probably not going to last long even if you do put a new cable in as it sounds like there may be something wrong with the casing.

The FSM is so much better than the Haynes, you'll wonder why you didn't buy it sooner..... Andy Russell has them for most all years of the cars.. e-mail him at z@datsundude.com

If the wheels aren't close to 0 offset, with a 17 inch rim you would run the risk of not enough clearance between the tire/rim and the spring and/or spring perch. Sounds to me like they are more of a front wheel drive spacing that would require a spacer, or you'd have to convert over to the adjustable coil-overs for more clearance..... Looking at the picture of it in their catalog, I'd say it's got quite a bit of positive offset, but it's really hard to tell in a picture like that, cuz you can't see how thick the mounting flange is on the back of the wheel...but, it it does have a thich flange, then you might run into trouble with the wheel studs not being long enough to capture all the threads in the nut.... All it says in the catalog is that it comes with all the necessary hardware to mount it, which is a good indication they require a spacer due to the positive offset.

600? Yeesh..... By all means, get yourself the new AFM, get yourself a brand new Factory Service Manual for 75 bucks if you don't have one already, and change it yourself.... It's only a couple clamps and 4 bolts and a wiring harness to undo... oh, there might be a vacuum hose hdiding underneath too... The factory service manual will tell you how to properly set the AFM..so for half the price, you have the satisfaction of knowing it's done at least as good, and in some cases, better than a shop would do it... Just ask ZMeFly..... sometimes doing it yourself is not only more rewarding, but a heck of a lot better than someone doing a half-arsed job on it.

And, if you're interested, here's the heater-A/C cover panel I took out of a 76 280 that I'm going to try installing in the 71. The hole on the right is where the vent control is mounted through and the other end mounts on a screw... First time I saw one was in Ken Lewis' car, and happened to think I had one in the 76 parts car.. make's for a cleaner looking passengers side footwell....

Here's the one that is in my 71, that luckily, is still in excellent shape... unfortunately, it's the only one I have. It does seem odd no one makes a replacement, since they do make replacement handbrake covers. Could probably make these out of the scraps from making the handbrake covers...

Yeah, that is an unusual looking A/C unit.. It's also missing the plastic under dash (kick?)panel that somewhat covered the A/C... I've had a couple cars with the pig tail vinyl cover, but the worst thing about them is the proximity to the heater which usually ends up with the vinyl cover getting dry and brittle and the vinyl separating from the backing. Don't know what I've ever seen anyone having them for sale now....:disappoin

Hmm, 280 strut housings are 5mm larger diameter and a bit longer than a 240, wonder if Koni is "making" them fit like Zvoiture's Tokiko's? As far as the 2+2 springs are concerned, you would have to cut them as they are stiffer and longer than the 240 springs and will give your car the 4x4 look, I know, I tried it many years ago trying to spend as little money as possible. I never bothered to cut the ones I had to get the car back to where it should have been, I just yanked them off and bought proper lowering springs.

Argh, not the same as the Z mirrors... the mirror head of the Z mirrors is round and not squared off like yours. I was going to take a pic, but my camera battery is dead.. I'll try to remember to post one in the morning. They could still be Nissan mirrors, but they aren't the same as what I have...

Actually, I read it off the box they came in... let me go look and see if it's on the mirror itself or not..... Hmm, no part numbers that I can see on the mirror or the mounting hardware.

Part numbers for the Z fender mirrors are: 96301-E4100 R/H 96302-E4100 L/H

Wow, Troy's been busy.. Too Intense has a whole new web-site.... Don't remember seeing all the colors and options with his last site.

Ya gotta be lucky Victor, I've yet to find one..... Gotta buy either a whole early car or be lucky enough to find one for sale.... my 11/70 has the later style, so can see how early a car you'd have to find... I think they went out about the same time as the early style 2400 valve covers.. early in the 70 model year.

As far as where to get the carpet, there's Motorpsport Auto, Classic Datsun Motorsports, Too Intense Restorations, and probably a few more I'm forgetting. You can find them, and possibly more in our Links section. Most have at least one or two choices of carpet as far as cut pile, loop pile etc... As far as covering the vinyl, the kits for the late 280's 77-78 will have the carpet for the tunnel and rear strut towers. Anything before that had no carpet for the strut towers. As far as the site with the different colors, I don't know. All I've ever bought was basic black.

27mm is the correct size. 1 1/16 in a 6 point socket will work, but it's a bit loose so be careful if you use one.

Thought you already tried to get an ATK and they were having problems with supply? Might be just as well off to try to get one from Jasper. I was looking on their web-site and it said they have the L-28 in stock. The later L-28E's had a wait on them but the L-28 that you would need is in stock for $2066 I believe. But then, you've got one of the best engine guys on the forum pretty close to you.. maybe Phred could help you out with it.

Believe me Ken, I thought about what I was missing every day of the Convention. I've already met Steve Millen a long time ago at Summit Point, but I sure didn't get to ride around on the track with him that weekend...those 300ZX TT IMSA cars didn't have a passengers seat.. My biggest regret is missing another chance to meet Mr. K:tapemouth and some of our other members I didn't get a chance to meet at Syracuse.

So many things.... Clogged radiator, whole system needs to be flushed, thermostat not operating at 100%, water pump not operating at 100%, plus, the before mentioned timing possibility, and definately the fan clutch. First thing I'd do is a good cooling system flush, then check and/or repair the fan clutch. If that isn't the problem, then go to the water pump, thermostat. If all that doesn't correct it, a trip to the radiator shop might be in order. Just start with the basics that don't cost too much, then go to the higher priced fixes last so you don't waste money on what didn't need to be fixed. Of course, it could be a combination of things as well.

Second childhood Victor? You sure you finished the first one? You should be ashamed of yourself.......:devious:

Are you sure the injectors are working? Pull a plug and see if it's loaded up with gas, if not, you may have something wrong that is causing no current to the injectors. Or, use the screwdriver on the metal injector retaining ring while some else turns the car over method, if no noises, that's your problem. Bad part, is figuring out where the problem is that might be causing a no current to the injectors. Do you have a Factory Service manual? Hope so.... There's all sort of tests for the lugs on the ECU to check for current and tells which lugs are which to test. I'm lost trying to help diagnose problems with FI without mine, so you'll have to ask someone else who may have one if you don't.

If you were planning on pulling the Turbo and replacing the dished pistons with flat tops, the E-31 would be the better way to go. The P-90 has larger valves, and better to flow than the E-31 so you're probably better off to do some other upgrades and leave the head you have on there as is. Bigger turbo and/or an intercooler would do more than good than anything.

Grrrr... I only wish I could have been there, even without a car.... Ok, I'm just jealous..... Car looks good from that angle. Looks like you did some serious polishing and cleaning like someone else I know. Hmm, no smilie for "oh god, my hands are soooo tired"....