2ManyZs

Looks like it's gonna need rocker panels, dog legs(behind the rocker where it turns up behind the door), possibly rear inner fender panels, and perhaps even bottom door panel replacement. Luckily, these panels are all available from Motorsport Auto. The damage in the front looks like it's been fixed to a certain extent. You might get a body shop to pull it out and make sure it's straight and work some of the wrinkles out with a dolly. There is an air vent that is missing that will cover up some of the wrinkles they can't get. With the amount of rust showing, you really need to do a good job exploring the rest of the car for any more rust that might cause problems later. These areas are, the floor pans, the frame rails, inside the front fender behind the wheel along the flange where the inner fender meets the frame rail, inside the hatch above the taillights, and even the bottoms of the front fenders just in front of the door. Also, take a good look under the batter tray, where the fender and firewall meet, you can see this from inside the fender if you take the wheel off. Seeing that much rust on the outside, usually indicates more rust may be hiding somewhere else and just hasn't show its ugly head. Don't be surprised if you find more small spots in some of the before mentioned areas. You definately won't be the first to find it.

Don't know about copies, but the one I got from Andy for the 71 is a brand new factory original as fas as I can tell.

More likely the previous owner overtightened it and broke the stud. The studs have a bad habit of breaking like that if they are overtightened one time to many. It could be a difficult job getting the stud out depending on how much is protruding from the head. You have to be very careful if you have to drill it out of the aluminum head, one slip and you may end up putting a heli-coil in it to repair it properly. Most people never replace the manifold studs over their time of owning the car, so they are very susceptible to breaking off.

If it isn't, you should be able to make one with a small piece of rubber gasket material and a hole punch. I made one once, leaked a little, but a lot less than what was in there to begin with. MSA only lists the whole cables, so if it's available from Nissan, Chloe might be your best bet.

Hmm, with that kind of power to the wheels and a 4:37 or 4:62 diff, just think what you could do... and with the ZX 5 speed, it would be almost still streetable.. might be a bit "busy" on the interstate though..... Shame, there was a 5:88 R-190 LSD on Ebay a week or so ago... bet that could have put it in the 12's with no trouble if you could shift it fast enough.

Hmm, good question. I've never tried to pull the cable apart. I know that a lot of cables are made so that you can't replace the cable unless you cut one end off it, as the ends aren't big enough to go through the casing. Then you have to put the end on the cable itself after you install the new one in the casing..... If it won't move after removing the oil seal in the end, you might be just as well off trying to find a whole new cable assembly and just do what you have to to hide the small excess. Plus, if it won't move at all, it's probably not going to last long even if you do put a new cable in as it sounds like there may be something wrong with the casing.

The FSM is so much better than the Haynes, you'll wonder why you didn't buy it sooner..... Andy Russell has them for most all years of the cars.. e-mail him at z@datsundude.com

If the wheels aren't close to 0 offset, with a 17 inch rim you would run the risk of not enough clearance between the tire/rim and the spring and/or spring perch. Sounds to me like they are more of a front wheel drive spacing that would require a spacer, or you'd have to convert over to the adjustable coil-overs for more clearance..... Looking at the picture of it in their catalog, I'd say it's got quite a bit of positive offset, but it's really hard to tell in a picture like that, cuz you can't see how thick the mounting flange is on the back of the wheel...but, it it does have a thich flange, then you might run into trouble with the wheel studs not being long enough to capture all the threads in the nut.... All it says in the catalog is that it comes with all the necessary hardware to mount it, which is a good indication they require a spacer due to the positive offset.

600? Yeesh..... By all means, get yourself the new AFM, get yourself a brand new Factory Service Manual for 75 bucks if you don't have one already, and change it yourself.... It's only a couple clamps and 4 bolts and a wiring harness to undo... oh, there might be a vacuum hose hdiding underneath too... The factory service manual will tell you how to properly set the AFM..so for half the price, you have the satisfaction of knowing it's done at least as good, and in some cases, better than a shop would do it... Just ask ZMeFly..... sometimes doing it yourself is not only more rewarding, but a heck of a lot better than someone doing a half-arsed job on it.

And, if you're interested, here's the heater-A/C cover panel I took out of a 76 280 that I'm going to try installing in the 71. The hole on the right is where the vent control is mounted through and the other end mounts on a screw... First time I saw one was in Ken Lewis' car, and happened to think I had one in the 76 parts car.. make's for a cleaner looking passengers side footwell....

Here's the one that is in my 71, that luckily, is still in excellent shape... unfortunately, it's the only one I have. It does seem odd no one makes a replacement, since they do make replacement handbrake covers. Could probably make these out of the scraps from making the handbrake covers...

Yeah, that is an unusual looking A/C unit.. It's also missing the plastic under dash (kick?)panel that somewhat covered the A/C... I've had a couple cars with the pig tail vinyl cover, but the worst thing about them is the proximity to the heater which usually ends up with the vinyl cover getting dry and brittle and the vinyl separating from the backing. Don't know what I've ever seen anyone having them for sale now....:disappoin

73 bumpers could fit a 71, but you'd have to use the 73 style bumpers mounts that would push the bumper out from the body, then you'd want the rubber filler pieces to make it look right. Most people do the swap the other way around, 71 style on 73 cars to make them look "cleaner"....

Hmm, 280 strut housings are 5mm larger diameter and a bit longer than a 240, wonder if Koni is "making" them fit like Zvoiture's Tokiko's? As far as the 2+2 springs are concerned, you would have to cut them as they are stiffer and longer than the 240 springs and will give your car the 4x4 look, I know, I tried it many years ago trying to spend as little money as possible. I never bothered to cut the ones I had to get the car back to where it should have been, I just yanked them off and bought proper lowering springs.

Argh, not the same as the Z mirrors... the mirror head of the Z mirrors is round and not squared off like yours. I was going to take a pic, but my camera battery is dead.. I'll try to remember to post one in the morning. They could still be Nissan mirrors, but they aren't the same as what I have...

Actually, I read it off the box they came in... let me go look and see if it's on the mirror itself or not..... Hmm, no part numbers that I can see on the mirror or the mounting hardware.

Part numbers for the Z fender mirrors are: 96301-E4100 R/H 96302-E4100 L/H

Well, it may not be any help, but here's a place that has the ring and pinion you want. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/classified.htm You can still get the LSD assembly from Nissan Competition last I knew. Unfortunatley, most people who have them, don't want to let them go...and I haven't seen anyone advertise one here for a while. Check out the for sale forums on Zcar and ZDriver and you might luck into one... they are kinda hard to find.

Wow, Troy's been busy.. Too Intense has a whole new web-site.... Don't remember seeing all the colors and options with his last site.

Ya gotta be lucky Victor, I've yet to find one..... Gotta buy either a whole early car or be lucky enough to find one for sale.... my 11/70 has the later style, so can see how early a car you'd have to find... I think they went out about the same time as the early style 2400 valve covers.. early in the 70 model year.

As far as where to get the carpet, there's Motorpsport Auto, Classic Datsun Motorsports, Too Intense Restorations, and probably a few more I'm forgetting. You can find them, and possibly more in our Links section. Most have at least one or two choices of carpet as far as cut pile, loop pile etc... As far as covering the vinyl, the kits for the late 280's 77-78 will have the carpet for the tunnel and rear strut towers. Anything before that had no carpet for the strut towers. As far as the site with the different colors, I don't know. All I've ever bought was basic black.

27mm is the correct size. 1 1/16 in a 6 point socket will work, but it's a bit loose so be careful if you use one.