2ManyZs

Marty, as far as the rear toe problem, the only thing you could do is to put the adjustable camber bushings in to be able to set it correctly. It's possible sometime in it's life it's been run into a curbing or hit one **** of a pothole and somewhere it's bent slightly...I guess the only way to know for sure would be to put the car on a frame machine and find out if it's in the chassis or the suspension itself. Of course, if you did that, they might be able to "tweak" the unibody enough to correct the toe problem. Or the car might have been hit in a parking lot in the rear at one time... either way, the results would be the same. As for the tire to fender clearance... you can't compare the different tire diameters like that.... You should have more distance with the 60 series simply because the 60 series is a smaller diameter tire than the 70 series,if the springs were equal that it... Try sitting both cars on a level surface and measure the ride height at the bottom edge of the rocker panel on both cars if you want to see what, if any, the difference in ride height.... FWIW, a lot of aftermarket springs I've seen have a bit of a "squat" in the rear for some reason...... One other question, were the "Euro" springs marked front and rear so that they were put on the right end? I've seen a lot of them that aren't marked...

If you look back a ways in his pics, I think you'll find one where the "peg-leg" is standing next to the correct one and the "peg-leg" actually has a longer piston then the original type. To be honest, I don't think you'll have any binding or bottoming issues, as you don't use the entire piston travel on the original one. You end up pushing the piston down an inch or so when you compress the spring enough to put the top isolator on and the suspension travel is determined by your spring lenght. These cartridges are usually used only when using coil-overs and you section the strut housing, which would be the amount of thickness of the spacer on the bottom. Seems odd though that they no longer seem to have the correct one for the original lenght strut housing and are trying to get away with using the one that is for another vehicle that they have been selling for 240's with sectioned struts.... hmm.....

I'm not sure what you mean by setting the clearance Kyle. According to all the info in my manuals, the rear mainshaft nut is to be torqued to 101-123ft/lbs but says nothing about setting any clearance. ? Thought I should add the torques spec for the counter gear lock nut is 72-94ft/lbs.

Depends on how much rust you find poking around in both cars..... If the 260 is the better of the two, you could take parts from the 280 to build that up, and sell off some of the other parts you don't need and probably get you total investment down to 500 or so.... Guess a lot of it depends on if you have room to store the cars and parts, and whether 950 is "pocket change"..... if you have both of the above, go for it....

Guess I should have sold something so I could have gone.....:stupid: David, are you going to do a FATT at Summit or the Car Guys? I used to race at Summit, so if you need some pointers or help with the car, send me a PM and if it's possible, I can come up and watch someone else have fun... like I did last weekend at the Marrs race.... :tapemouth

A good "rule of thumb" is to not go more than 2 inches section width of the tire over the width of your wheel. eg. with a 7 inch wheel, try to keep the section width close to 9 inches for the tire or you'll end up with bulging sidewalls and abnormal tread wear. Most tire manufacturers will give you the section width, tread width, overall diameter for each of the tire sizes they carry so you can determine which width to get in whichever profile you choose.

He has two complete sets in very nice shape listed as well as some other interesting items.... http://cgi6.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=mr_datsun&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50

If you want a quick "ball park" figure....... I'd say 8K-9K.... give or take 1K... I'd say you could sell it in a heartbeat for 6500... but would you want too? Or would you rather keep it on the market a while and see how much you could get? A lot depends on how many other cars are in the area too....and how many willing buyers there are with the money.. but we all know you guys in Charlotte are loaded... An appraiser is a good idea, but, what they appraise it for might make you want to keep it as a lot of times, they will give you a higher figure than you might actually get if you were to sell it. There have been numerous cars on Ebay claiming to be appraised at 10K or more that I doubt were actually worth it.

The "B" type transmissions were used in the late 71 model year and after that.... The short shifter has a two piece mounting plate that bolts through the stock pivot on the trans case and moves it up away from the trans case by an inch. Your pic shows a stock unmodified B type shifter....

Both shifters are approximately 11 1/2 inches overall lenght. The stock one is 2 inches from the bottom to the center of the pivot and the short shifter is 3 inches... that is the only difference. I just measured them real quick with a tape measure, so they aren't exact measurements. I haven't used the short shifter in a car yet so I can't tell you how much difference it really makes.... it's sitting in a drawer waiting for me to finish the car....... This is only good for the B model transmission though, since the linkage and shifter are totally different for the A model. There is no kit to change the A model shifter as it would require a lot more work to change the pivot point on the early transmission since it's made as part of the shift rail itself. Not saying it couldn't be done, only that there is no bolt on kit to do it.:disappoin

Keep the car and don't move so close to the coast is what I'd do.....:devious: I guess it's all a matter in how much it's worth to you... or should I say, what is the least amount you would be willing to part with it for. Mine is in pieces scattered all over the garage, and if someone handed me 5K in 100 dollar bills, I'd hand it right back to them... because I know that it would take years to find another car that only had one small area of rust that needed to be fixed...You also need to take into account how much you would have to spend to replace the car with one in the approximately the same condition in a couple years should you change your mind and want another one.... Got anything else you are not as attached to you could sell?:devious: Here are the pics... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3560&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3561&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3562&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3563&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

I'd have to go dig through some boxes for a stock shifter.. could do it tomorrow...... I can even give you the measurements for the aftermarket short shifter too.....

Unless he's confusing the half shaft with the stub axle.. the stub axle is what connects to the wheel, not the half shaft. If you remove the half shaft(or driveshaft from the diff) at the stub axle flange, you will see another large nut inside the flange that holds the stub axle into the strut housing which is connected to the wheel hub. After removing the large staked nut on the inside of the flange the half shaft is bolted too, you use a slide hammer on the wheel studs and that will pull the stub axle out of the housing. By your description, it's hard to understand if it's the half shaft that is loose from the stub axle, or if the stub axle is loose in the strut housing. If the stub axle is loose in the strut housing, it may have snapped in half, which would cause a lot of noise as it is just spinning with the driveshaft but isn't connected to the wheel at all.....

If my memory is right, I think it changed mid to late 72.. Pretty sure my 73 had the later style with the bushings, but that's been years ago since I had that.....:cross-eye The early style bolts solidly with a vertical bolt into a captured nut in a pocket off the trans tunnel.

Full floor pans and frame rails from ZeddFindings will set you back approx. 400 bucks.. then, figure double that amount if you have to have it done professionally. More work you can do yourself the better... Sunroofs do hurt the value a bit, since many of them leak or are a major cause of rust, plus, that hole in the roof weakends the uni-body slightly....Replacing it with steel is gonna be very costly since it's going to take a pretty good bodyman to do the job correctly. 3K with a parts car.. sounds a wee bit high, but it might be worth it, but without pictures it's really hard to tell. Depends on how much of the small stuff is still there and in useable condition, the little things can add up in a hurry when you are wanting to do the car right. If the floor pans and/or frame rails are in bad enough shape that they need to be replaced, you really need to spend some time loking it over because it may have other rust that is hidden.. do a search here in the forums for rust and you should find many threads about where to look for rust.

Shortening the shifter at the top only gives you a "perceived" shorter shift as you don't move the shift knob in as wide an arc as before. To change the shifter leverage you need to move the shifter pivot upwards and lengthen the bottom of the shifter for it to have a true shorter throw and better leverage. If you look at the short throw shifter that are available (although quite expensive) the replacement shift lever itself is nearly the same length as stock, but they move the pivot upward away from the trans and lengthen the lower end of the shift lever where it enters the shift rail on the trans. Doing this, you move the shift rail further with less movement from above as before..... And, they also have a heavier shift knob, that makes the shifts seem easier because there is a bit more force involved in moving the shift lever in its arc once you apply enough force to get it moving.... Does that make sense or did I miss out on the explanation?....

Go to www.hybridz.org Their whole site is dedicated to engine swaps like you want to know about....

Instead of Astrological Signs, how about these .. What's Your Business Sign? MARKETING -- You are ambitious yet stupid. You chose a marketing degree to avoid having to study in college, concentrating instead on drinking and socializing which is pretty much what your job responsibilities are now. Least compatible with Sales. SALES -- Laziest of all signs, often referred to as "marketing without a degree." You are also self-centered and paranoid. Unless someone calls you and begs you to take their money, you like to avoid contact with customers so you can "concentrate on the big picture." You seek admiration for your golf game throughout your life. TECHNOLOGY -- Unable to control anything in your personal life, you are instead content to completely control everything that happens at your workplace. Often even YOU don't understand what you are saying but who the hell can tell. It is written that Geeks shall inherit the Earth. ENGINEERING -- One of only two signs that actually studied in school. It is said that engineers place ninety percent of all Personal Ads. You can be happy with yourself; your office is full of all the latest "ergodynamic" gadgets. However, we all know what is really causing your "carpal tunnel syndrome." ACCOUNTING -- The only other sign that studied in school. You are mostly immune from office politics. You are the most feared person in the organization; combined with your extreme organizational traits, the majority of rumors concerning you say that you are completely insane. HUMAN RESOURCES -- Ironically, given your access to confidential information, you tend to be the biggest gossip within the organization. Possibly the only other person that does less work than marketing, you are unable to return any calls today because you have to get a haircut, have lunch AND then mail a letter. MANAGEMENT/MIDDLE MANAGEMENT -- Catty, cutthroat, yet completely spineless, you are destined to remain at your current job for the rest of your life. Unable to make a single decision you tend to measure your worth by the number of meetings you can schedule for yourself. Best suited to marry other "Middle Managers" as everyone in your social circle is a "Middle Manager." SENIOR MANAGEMENT -- (See above - Same sign, different title) CUSTOMER SERVICE -- Bright, cheery, positive, you are a fifty-cent cab ride from taking your own life. As children very few of you asked your parents for a little cubicle for your room and a headset so you could pretend to play "Customer Service." Continually passed over for promotions, your best bet is to sleep with your manager. CONSULTANT -- Lacking any specific knowledge, you use acronyms to avoid revealing your utter lack of experience. You have convinced yourself that your "skills" are in demand and that you could get a higher paying job with any other organization in a heartbeat. You will spend an eternity contemplating these career opportunities without ever taking direct action. RECRUITER, "HEADHUNTER" -- As a "person" that profits from the success of others, most people who actually work for a living disdain you. Paid on commission and susceptible to alcoholism, your ulcers and frequent heart attacks correspond directly with fluctuations in the stock market. PARTNER, PRESIDENT, CEO -- You are brilliant or lucky. Your inability to figure out complex systems such as the fax machine suggest the latter.

With a pyrometer, you really don't need to spend the money on a camber gauge.. unless you just want to know what it is set at so you can write it in a log. If you run more than one track that will be a big help, since every track is going to require a different setting for the best result. If you change it for one track, you can re-set the camber for another track with the gauge according to your set-up log. I've read on some of the racing forums that some of the tires really fall off if their temps get up to 150 plus degrees. Given that you might have lost a couple degrees exiting the track before you got the tire temps, you might be getting close to that now. That's one of the reason I said something.....Can't remember which tires they were talking about though, whether it's the Hoosiers or the Kumhos, but either way, you should try to even the temps out no matter what for the best handling.

Ok, mainly I was wondering if you were taking the temps at all...I've been crewing for my old ITS 280 this year and it took me a while to convince them to get a pyrometer.... You might want to take just a little bit, maybe 1/2 degree of camber out... main reason is to get your tire temps as close as possible across the whole tread, then you can work with tire pressure a bit. If you can get within 5 degrees across the tread, you've got it about as close as possible. The closer the temp is, the better it is.

Err, Victor, they may be heavy... but those Z06's are quick... Craig, the car looks like it's pretty well set up.. not much body roll at all. I just have one question, have you checked your rear tire temps? I only ask because you seem to have quite a bit of negative camber in the rear....Depending on the tire used, most of the Z car guys run very little negative in the rear...

Unfortunately, the panels you need to replace are panels that no one has ever made patch panels for. The only thing you will be able to do it either get replacements off another car that are in better shape, or fabricate them and weld them in. The one good thing about these spots is that they are hidden, so the panels won't have to be fabricated to match them exactly. FWIW, usually the areas you've shown, are not common rust areas, usually these areas are damaged in accidents, but I don't think I've seen many that rusted out like this.

There should be just a little play in the ring and pinion, which would give you a little rotational play, but not in any other plane...in, out, up or down..... Sounds like it's quite possible the bearings have some play in them.

Given the technology of the time, with no computer operated painting robots and such, I think we'll find or it's quite possible that a whole day or more might have been spent pumping out Z's on the assembly line which were identical(same paint color and interior). Not only the difficulty in change-over, but also you have to take into account that very few of the early Z's had any special options available. Except for different markets and VIN numbers, they were all nearly identical when they rolled off the assembly line, especially the earliest models. What would be interesting is knowing how many different models(HLS, S30, etc) might have been built on the same assembly line or if they used a separate line for each model.

American Racing also makes (or made ) one similar also... I've got a set of 15x8's like them....