2ManyZs

Thought you already tried to get an ATK and they were having problems with supply? Might be just as well off to try to get one from Jasper. I was looking on their web-site and it said they have the L-28 in stock. The later L-28E's had a wait on them but the L-28 that you would need is in stock for $2066 I believe. But then, you've got one of the best engine guys on the forum pretty close to you.. maybe Phred could help you out with it.

Believe me Ken, I thought about what I was missing every day of the Convention. I've already met Steve Millen a long time ago at Summit Point, but I sure didn't get to ride around on the track with him that weekend...those 300ZX TT IMSA cars didn't have a passengers seat.. My biggest regret is missing another chance to meet Mr. K:tapemouth and some of our other members I didn't get a chance to meet at Syracuse.

So many things.... Clogged radiator, whole system needs to be flushed, thermostat not operating at 100%, water pump not operating at 100%, plus, the before mentioned timing possibility, and definately the fan clutch. First thing I'd do is a good cooling system flush, then check and/or repair the fan clutch. If that isn't the problem, then go to the water pump, thermostat. If all that doesn't correct it, a trip to the radiator shop might be in order. Just start with the basics that don't cost too much, then go to the higher priced fixes last so you don't waste money on what didn't need to be fixed. Of course, it could be a combination of things as well.

Second childhood Victor? You sure you finished the first one? You should be ashamed of yourself.......:devious:

Are you sure the injectors are working? Pull a plug and see if it's loaded up with gas, if not, you may have something wrong that is causing no current to the injectors. Or, use the screwdriver on the metal injector retaining ring while some else turns the car over method, if no noises, that's your problem. Bad part, is figuring out where the problem is that might be causing a no current to the injectors. Do you have a Factory Service manual? Hope so.... There's all sort of tests for the lugs on the ECU to check for current and tells which lugs are which to test. I'm lost trying to help diagnose problems with FI without mine, so you'll have to ask someone else who may have one if you don't.

If you were planning on pulling the Turbo and replacing the dished pistons with flat tops, the E-31 would be the better way to go. The P-90 has larger valves, and better to flow than the E-31 so you're probably better off to do some other upgrades and leave the head you have on there as is. Bigger turbo and/or an intercooler would do more than good than anything.

Grrrr... I only wish I could have been there, even without a car.... Ok, I'm just jealous..... Car looks good from that angle. Looks like you did some serious polishing and cleaning like someone else I know. Hmm, no smilie for "oh god, my hands are soooo tired"....

Before you get too excited, which head is on the Turbo? The P90? The P-90 is already one of the best flowing heads due to it's being used with the Turbo, so if you are keeping th FI and Turbo, the E-31 won't help you much, if at all. Plus, with the Turbo, you're gonna run into trouble with detonation at 9:1 more than likely. 9:1 is right on the borderline with a Turbo. Which means even more work and money. You might be better off to spend your money on an intercooler.

If you have a turbo engine, you won't have to worry about the compression. The turbo engines have dished pistons and the compression will probably be more in the neighborhood of 9:1 with an E-31. No problems. According to the engine calculator, your compression should come in somewhere between 8-8.75:1 depending on which head gasket you use.

Hmm, it could be the coil that overheated and the spark you are getting just isn't hot enough to travel to the plugs. Or, one of the wires between the coil and dizzy got hot and is the problem. Before you pull the dizzy apart, I'd try another coil, if you have an extra one handy, even and old used one, and then double check all the wiring. Or, perhaps a new rotor and cap. Go with the simple,cheap things first.

I've had a couple of the MSA headers with no problems. I would, however, suggest paying the extra money for the ceramic coating. Not only will it look better and prevent it from rusting, it also helps cut down on the underhood temp somewhat. Never used the Targa or Monza exhaust so I won't give and opinion on that. I've only used MSA's "Turbo" 2 1/2 inch exhaust. No problems with that either. Unless you can find an exhaust specialty shop close by that can do the work locally. But be sure to look at some of their work before you commit. And ask them if they use mandrel bends, which is the preferred bending technique.

Make's ya wonder why you didn't do it yourself in the first place doesn't it? Looks good to me.....only thing I'd do is use something a little stiffer on the top of the IC to mount it... but you can go back and change that at any time....some 1/2 or 3/4 wide by 3/16 stainless flat from Lowe's or HD polished up would look great:classic:

Did you check your fusible links? Before you do anything else, check them and the starter relay. Hopefully, the fusible links are problem.

Most of the guys I know use a small bolt with some good sized flat washers on the bottom to keep it from tearing through the sheetmetal of the hood. Of course, it depends on where you mount it as well. You could use some fairly large rivets, with large flat washers on the bottom as well. Personally, I'd go with bolts, just in case they loosen over time or you need to take them off and re-use them, it would make it a lot easier with bolts.

Uh, Oswego is up on the lake.... big difference....... You know where Unadilla, Sidney, Bainbridge, Andes, Walton, Gilbertsville, New Berlin, South Kortright,and all those little towns are? That's where my folks are from... and where the major portion of our relatives still live. My Dad is buried in Unadilla right alongside I-88 and I've got a plot up there myself... yup, born a Yankee, planted as a Yankee....

I know where Owego is, does that make me the grand prize winner? Let's see, what do I need of your list....... In fact, next trip to NY I've got to find the cemetary in Owego my aunt and uncle are buried in....

So Ken, how did you fare in the show? Some of us have been dying to know.... Guess it's a good thing I didn't make it, bet you know where I would have been the whole time drooling eh? I would have had to wash the BSR cars a couple times.....

The aluminum one from MSA is nice, but the price is a bit steep.... you can buy one from Summit Racing for half the price of it and with a little work make it fit.... Believe the ones for Camaro's are just about the right size. There should be some other threads around here somewhere about aluminum rads that fit. Yeah, living down there with the heat and humidity is even worse than up here in the mountains....plus the traffic down there can be a killer. One reason I never liked driving down there, all it took was one fender bender near a tunnel and no one went anywhere....

They do, but Konig doesn't make them anymore. So, you'll either have to find a used set, or possibly find a new set on Ebay that pop up once in a while. Someone lists them on Ebay that bought up a bunch before they were discontinued and lists them occasionally. I saw a set on there about a week ago, but didn't save the link.

Believe me, this was not a normal summer. This was more like an extended spring this year. Next summer you'll probably be glad you have A/C as it usually is in the high 80's and 90's from mid June till the end of August, with a few 100 degree days thrown in for variety. Motorsport Auto has 3 row radiators for about 195.00 and their 4 rows are 245.00 I think, but you can usually catch them on sale and save a few bucks. They bolt right on, and except for the extra thickness, look like the stock radiators. I've used their 4 rows with good success. I raced a 280 with no fan other than a small electric one for idling around in the pits and on the grid, and while racing the temps stayed right around 190- 210. Carl is right, on the street a fan shroud will make a huge difference if you can find one in good condition. And do make sure to check over the fan clutch and re-fill it if necessary. What part of VA are you in?

In Va with A/C I would always go for at least a 3 row if not a 4 row. The radiator is fairly expensive, but it will give you piece of mind, and it's a lot cheaper than warping a head because you got stuck in traffic. The A/C condensor will block a good bit of airflow, so anytime you are running in slow moving traffic, it will be doubly important to have the most efficient radiator you can get. The only way I'd go with a 2 row is with an aluminum radiator which is a lot more efficient than the stock type radiator.

Wish we could all be so lucky...... I'd be happy if I could find just a rust free bare shell.

Well, I know a guy who can do miracles with an English wheel, so stay tuned. I know his work is in big demand because of his previous work, but if I can get him interested, I'm going to try to get him to make me a few or teach me how to do it..... Be better than sittin on my butt in front of the computer all the time... FWIW, he used to work for Boyd Coddington... so you know he's good.