2ManyZs

Shortening the shifter at the top only gives you a "perceived" shorter shift as you don't move the shift knob in as wide an arc as before. To change the shifter leverage you need to move the shifter pivot upwards and lengthen the bottom of the shifter for it to have a true shorter throw and better leverage. If you look at the short throw shifter that are available (although quite expensive) the replacement shift lever itself is nearly the same length as stock, but they move the pivot upward away from the trans and lengthen the lower end of the shift lever where it enters the shift rail on the trans. Doing this, you move the shift rail further with less movement from above as before..... And, they also have a heavier shift knob, that makes the shifts seem easier because there is a bit more force involved in moving the shift lever in its arc once you apply enough force to get it moving.... Does that make sense or did I miss out on the explanation?....

Go to www.hybridz.org Their whole site is dedicated to engine swaps like you want to know about....

With a pyrometer, you really don't need to spend the money on a camber gauge.. unless you just want to know what it is set at so you can write it in a log. If you run more than one track that will be a big help, since every track is going to require a different setting for the best result. If you change it for one track, you can re-set the camber for another track with the gauge according to your set-up log. I've read on some of the racing forums that some of the tires really fall off if their temps get up to 150 plus degrees. Given that you might have lost a couple degrees exiting the track before you got the tire temps, you might be getting close to that now. That's one of the reason I said something.....Can't remember which tires they were talking about though, whether it's the Hoosiers or the Kumhos, but either way, you should try to even the temps out no matter what for the best handling.

Ok, mainly I was wondering if you were taking the temps at all...I've been crewing for my old ITS 280 this year and it took me a while to convince them to get a pyrometer.... You might want to take just a little bit, maybe 1/2 degree of camber out... main reason is to get your tire temps as close as possible across the whole tread, then you can work with tire pressure a bit. If you can get within 5 degrees across the tread, you've got it about as close as possible. The closer the temp is, the better it is.

Err, Victor, they may be heavy... but those Z06's are quick... Craig, the car looks like it's pretty well set up.. not much body roll at all. I just have one question, have you checked your rear tire temps? I only ask because you seem to have quite a bit of negative camber in the rear....Depending on the tire used, most of the Z car guys run very little negative in the rear...

Unfortunately, the panels you need to replace are panels that no one has ever made patch panels for. The only thing you will be able to do it either get replacements off another car that are in better shape, or fabricate them and weld them in. The one good thing about these spots is that they are hidden, so the panels won't have to be fabricated to match them exactly. FWIW, usually the areas you've shown, are not common rust areas, usually these areas are damaged in accidents, but I don't think I've seen many that rusted out like this.

There should be just a little play in the ring and pinion, which would give you a little rotational play, but not in any other plane...in, out, up or down..... Sounds like it's quite possible the bearings have some play in them.

Given the technology of the time, with no computer operated painting robots and such, I think we'll find or it's quite possible that a whole day or more might have been spent pumping out Z's on the assembly line which were identical(same paint color and interior). Not only the difficulty in change-over, but also you have to take into account that very few of the early Z's had any special options available. Except for different markets and VIN numbers, they were all nearly identical when they rolled off the assembly line, especially the earliest models. What would be interesting is knowing how many different models(HLS, S30, etc) might have been built on the same assembly line or if they used a separate line for each model.

American Racing also makes (or made ) one similar also... I've got a set of 15x8's like them....

Alan, I think we should give Alfa the "atta-boy" award for even knowing who Groucho is..... If he can name all the Marx brothers, we'll have to send him a present..... and no looking it up on the internet either Lachlan! And, I also noticed the seller called it a Fairlady Z.... but I think I'd rather wait and see if he lists the early car instead....just something about a 2+2 with the G-nose......:cross-eye

There's a copy on Ebay right now of the second book (brand new still in the shrink wrap).. starting bid is 80 bucks, but that's a not too bad unless someone gets into a bidding war with you... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3557398917&category=1132 Here's another book also that might help. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34229&item=2436195364 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2195860075&category=14026

I apologize for doubting you and your car, but if you look at this link, I think you'll understand why most of us have some doubts about the types of people that you can run across on the internet. Most of us are the "I'll believe it when I see it" types... If this is a "race car" or even a car that anyone with any kind of sense would take out on the street. Make sure you read the description, especially the part about the seats..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436353299&category=6187 Sadly, someone will actually believe what he is saying about the car...:disappoin

If that were a 2 seater, you'd probably need another bay in your garage about now huh? Of course, if it were a 2 seater, a lot of us would be wondering where we could put it......:devious:

I don't know what all the fuss is about, it's just a good looking looking Zed or is that Z?... Or all we all just jealous? Hmmmm, guess that would be a yes... Great score Hayden:classic: I was wondering about the dual signals too, but it kinda gives the car a little character the more you look at it. Plus a little mystery to boot.... Bet the Christmas wish list is getting longer already eh?

People who have used them that frequent the racing forums call them the Phantom Slip... so far I have yet to see anyone post much good to say about them. Perhaps on a street only driven car they might be acceptable, but you might be better off to save and get a Nismo LSD... cost more, but at least it's a known quantity.

Perhaps if you had included the info in your last post in your original post, there wouldn't have been as much skepticism.... If you had said in your original post that the info on the car was on Carl's web-site we would have believed you to begin with. If a new member were to say he's got a 71 Hemi-Cuda sitting in his driveway, that is a 1 of 1 built by the factory, I'd want to see documentation from Galen Govier to back up his claims. Wouldn't you? Same goes with a Z, if Carl says it's legit, we'll believe it. We have a couple members here that know the Japanese models and/or European models as well as Carl knows the US models.

Dunno as this is really worth 1K... First, it only lift the car enough to roll under it with a creeper, second, it takes up a lot of space, third, you have to work around it while trying to work on the car... I'd be more tempted to buy two air powered frame lifts(jacks) from someone like Northern Tool for 369 each(now on sale) and be able to lift the car over 30 inches, and have the entire underside of the car free to work on it. I've been tempted to buy a pair like this and then make a rotisserie section to attach to the jack, so that you could bolt them to the car, then lift it to whatever hieght you want, then if you want to roll the chassis over, you can just jack it a little higher... Here's what I'm talking about... http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=7856&langId=-1 Unless, of course, you have a high enough ceiling in your garage that you could install a regular auto lift.. of course, those are going to be in the $2500 and up category...:disappoin

Do a search in the forum for hood release cable, it should bring up more than a few threads from people who had the same thing happen.

I don't think anyone doubted you had the car, it's the statement that the car was built for Nissan that is highly suspect. It may have been built for a Nissan dealer or one of the Nissan specialty shops of the time, such as Jim Cook Racing was at one time, but I don't recall Nissan sponsoring any "one-off" show cars such as this back in the 70's. Today is a different story, with all the makers spending millions on "concept" cars that very seldom make it into production. I'd like to see the documents to prove this was built FOR Nissan before I'll believe it myself. Sorry, but without positive proof, we're all going to be a bit skeptical of the origins of the car. I remember the body kit and the car that Jim Cook had on the cover of all his catalogs well, and that car was painted in the exact same paint scheme as this one is, the only difference was JC's car had the square headlights and (I'm guessing here) had some really nice wheels on it, think they were called Gamblers, made by Centerline at one time? Hot Rod magazine also had a hand in another Z car in the 70's or 80's, which was a 240 or 260 with a built SBC, 9 inch Ford rear with a custon built 4 link suspension and some really nice body modifications. Homemade taillight panel, Corvette taillights, cow induction hood, hand made front valence that closed up half the front grill area and a lot other stuff. So, HR had some interest in Z cars, but this one was done all for HR magazine. Might this one been built by and for Jim Cook Racing as a promo for his upcoming body kits? Guess the documentation you have will soon tell us... Whatever the story, it's a good find... and if those fenders and flares are made of steel and not fiberglass, it's definately worth keeping and fixing up..might take a while, but as long as it's in one piece... I say go for it, and good luck.

I can't offer an opinion on the Classic Tube pieces, but if it were a choice left to me, I'd try MidwestZ before buying anything from VB... I'd imagine Chloe can get anything that VB can and probably a lot more and match or beat their prices....and anything that is still available such as the "T" block or mounting bolt, you aren't going to get from Classic Tube, ar at least I doubt they will have it...

The gland nut being loose won't affect anything as far as camber or front end alignment. What it will do is allow the strut insert to move up and down in the strut tube and cause some noise and possibly damage to the strut insert. Some insert lenghts are not all the same, as long as the gland nut is tight on the top of the insert, you shouldn't have any problem. The washer on the T/C rod might cause a slight difference in the caster from side to side. The difference in the camber from side to side could be due to bad control arm bushings if you haven't replaced them, or in the worst case, either a bent strut or bent control arm. Even worse, it could be due to the chassis being tweaked a bit and the difference lies in the strut towers themselves.....

Wide? Those things are huge... what are they 10" wide? Definately would need the over fenders for those eh? Brandon, they would fit, if you could actually ever get your hands on a set....:disappoin And if you could afford them...:cross-eye

Are you going to offer a prize to the person who's been an SCCA member the longest??? :devious: