2ManyZs

Both shifters are approximately 11 1/2 inches overall lenght. The stock one is 2 inches from the bottom to the center of the pivot and the short shifter is 3 inches... that is the only difference. I just measured them real quick with a tape measure, so they aren't exact measurements. I haven't used the short shifter in a car yet so I can't tell you how much difference it really makes.... it's sitting in a drawer waiting for me to finish the car....... This is only good for the B model transmission though, since the linkage and shifter are totally different for the A model. There is no kit to change the A model shifter as it would require a lot more work to change the pivot point on the early transmission since it's made as part of the shift rail itself. Not saying it couldn't be done, only that there is no bolt on kit to do it.:disappoin

Keep the car and don't move so close to the coast is what I'd do.....:devious: I guess it's all a matter in how much it's worth to you... or should I say, what is the least amount you would be willing to part with it for. Mine is in pieces scattered all over the garage, and if someone handed me 5K in 100 dollar bills, I'd hand it right back to them... because I know that it would take years to find another car that only had one small area of rust that needed to be fixed...You also need to take into account how much you would have to spend to replace the car with one in the approximately the same condition in a couple years should you change your mind and want another one.... Got anything else you are not as attached to you could sell?:devious: Here are the pics... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3560&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3561&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3562&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3563&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

I'd have to go dig through some boxes for a stock shifter.. could do it tomorrow...... I can even give you the measurements for the aftermarket short shifter too.....

Unless he's confusing the half shaft with the stub axle.. the stub axle is what connects to the wheel, not the half shaft. If you remove the half shaft(or driveshaft from the diff) at the stub axle flange, you will see another large nut inside the flange that holds the stub axle into the strut housing which is connected to the wheel hub. After removing the large staked nut on the inside of the flange the half shaft is bolted too, you use a slide hammer on the wheel studs and that will pull the stub axle out of the housing. By your description, it's hard to understand if it's the half shaft that is loose from the stub axle, or if the stub axle is loose in the strut housing. If the stub axle is loose in the strut housing, it may have snapped in half, which would cause a lot of noise as it is just spinning with the driveshaft but isn't connected to the wheel at all.....

If my memory is right, I think it changed mid to late 72.. Pretty sure my 73 had the later style with the bushings, but that's been years ago since I had that.....:cross-eye The early style bolts solidly with a vertical bolt into a captured nut in a pocket off the trans tunnel.

Full floor pans and frame rails from ZeddFindings will set you back approx. 400 bucks.. then, figure double that amount if you have to have it done professionally. More work you can do yourself the better... Sunroofs do hurt the value a bit, since many of them leak or are a major cause of rust, plus, that hole in the roof weakends the uni-body slightly....Replacing it with steel is gonna be very costly since it's going to take a pretty good bodyman to do the job correctly. 3K with a parts car.. sounds a wee bit high, but it might be worth it, but without pictures it's really hard to tell. Depends on how much of the small stuff is still there and in useable condition, the little things can add up in a hurry when you are wanting to do the car right. If the floor pans and/or frame rails are in bad enough shape that they need to be replaced, you really need to spend some time loking it over because it may have other rust that is hidden.. do a search here in the forums for rust and you should find many threads about where to look for rust.

Shortening the shifter at the top only gives you a "perceived" shorter shift as you don't move the shift knob in as wide an arc as before. To change the shifter leverage you need to move the shifter pivot upwards and lengthen the bottom of the shifter for it to have a true shorter throw and better leverage. If you look at the short throw shifter that are available (although quite expensive) the replacement shift lever itself is nearly the same length as stock, but they move the pivot upward away from the trans and lengthen the lower end of the shift lever where it enters the shift rail on the trans. Doing this, you move the shift rail further with less movement from above as before..... And, they also have a heavier shift knob, that makes the shifts seem easier because there is a bit more force involved in moving the shift lever in its arc once you apply enough force to get it moving.... Does that make sense or did I miss out on the explanation?....

Go to www.hybridz.org Their whole site is dedicated to engine swaps like you want to know about....

Instead of Astrological Signs, how about these .. What's Your Business Sign? MARKETING -- You are ambitious yet stupid. You chose a marketing degree to avoid having to study in college, concentrating instead on drinking and socializing which is pretty much what your job responsibilities are now. Least compatible with Sales. SALES -- Laziest of all signs, often referred to as "marketing without a degree." You are also self-centered and paranoid. Unless someone calls you and begs you to take their money, you like to avoid contact with customers so you can "concentrate on the big picture." You seek admiration for your golf game throughout your life. TECHNOLOGY -- Unable to control anything in your personal life, you are instead content to completely control everything that happens at your workplace. Often even YOU don't understand what you are saying but who the hell can tell. It is written that Geeks shall inherit the Earth. ENGINEERING -- One of only two signs that actually studied in school. It is said that engineers place ninety percent of all Personal Ads. You can be happy with yourself; your office is full of all the latest "ergodynamic" gadgets. However, we all know what is really causing your "carpal tunnel syndrome." ACCOUNTING -- The only other sign that studied in school. You are mostly immune from office politics. You are the most feared person in the organization; combined with your extreme organizational traits, the majority of rumors concerning you say that you are completely insane. HUMAN RESOURCES -- Ironically, given your access to confidential information, you tend to be the biggest gossip within the organization. Possibly the only other person that does less work than marketing, you are unable to return any calls today because you have to get a haircut, have lunch AND then mail a letter. MANAGEMENT/MIDDLE MANAGEMENT -- Catty, cutthroat, yet completely spineless, you are destined to remain at your current job for the rest of your life. Unable to make a single decision you tend to measure your worth by the number of meetings you can schedule for yourself. Best suited to marry other "Middle Managers" as everyone in your social circle is a "Middle Manager." SENIOR MANAGEMENT -- (See above - Same sign, different title) CUSTOMER SERVICE -- Bright, cheery, positive, you are a fifty-cent cab ride from taking your own life. As children very few of you asked your parents for a little cubicle for your room and a headset so you could pretend to play "Customer Service." Continually passed over for promotions, your best bet is to sleep with your manager. CONSULTANT -- Lacking any specific knowledge, you use acronyms to avoid revealing your utter lack of experience. You have convinced yourself that your "skills" are in demand and that you could get a higher paying job with any other organization in a heartbeat. You will spend an eternity contemplating these career opportunities without ever taking direct action. RECRUITER, "HEADHUNTER" -- As a "person" that profits from the success of others, most people who actually work for a living disdain you. Paid on commission and susceptible to alcoholism, your ulcers and frequent heart attacks correspond directly with fluctuations in the stock market. PARTNER, PRESIDENT, CEO -- You are brilliant or lucky. Your inability to figure out complex systems such as the fax machine suggest the latter.

With a pyrometer, you really don't need to spend the money on a camber gauge.. unless you just want to know what it is set at so you can write it in a log. If you run more than one track that will be a big help, since every track is going to require a different setting for the best result. If you change it for one track, you can re-set the camber for another track with the gauge according to your set-up log. I've read on some of the racing forums that some of the tires really fall off if their temps get up to 150 plus degrees. Given that you might have lost a couple degrees exiting the track before you got the tire temps, you might be getting close to that now. That's one of the reason I said something.....Can't remember which tires they were talking about though, whether it's the Hoosiers or the Kumhos, but either way, you should try to even the temps out no matter what for the best handling.

Ok, mainly I was wondering if you were taking the temps at all...I've been crewing for my old ITS 280 this year and it took me a while to convince them to get a pyrometer.... You might want to take just a little bit, maybe 1/2 degree of camber out... main reason is to get your tire temps as close as possible across the whole tread, then you can work with tire pressure a bit. If you can get within 5 degrees across the tread, you've got it about as close as possible. The closer the temp is, the better it is.

Err, Victor, they may be heavy... but those Z06's are quick... Craig, the car looks like it's pretty well set up.. not much body roll at all. I just have one question, have you checked your rear tire temps? I only ask because you seem to have quite a bit of negative camber in the rear....Depending on the tire used, most of the Z car guys run very little negative in the rear...

Unfortunately, the panels you need to replace are panels that no one has ever made patch panels for. The only thing you will be able to do it either get replacements off another car that are in better shape, or fabricate them and weld them in. The one good thing about these spots is that they are hidden, so the panels won't have to be fabricated to match them exactly. FWIW, usually the areas you've shown, are not common rust areas, usually these areas are damaged in accidents, but I don't think I've seen many that rusted out like this.

There should be just a little play in the ring and pinion, which would give you a little rotational play, but not in any other plane...in, out, up or down..... Sounds like it's quite possible the bearings have some play in them.

Given the technology of the time, with no computer operated painting robots and such, I think we'll find or it's quite possible that a whole day or more might have been spent pumping out Z's on the assembly line which were identical(same paint color and interior). Not only the difficulty in change-over, but also you have to take into account that very few of the early Z's had any special options available. Except for different markets and VIN numbers, they were all nearly identical when they rolled off the assembly line, especially the earliest models. What would be interesting is knowing how many different models(HLS, S30, etc) might have been built on the same assembly line or if they used a separate line for each model.

American Racing also makes (or made ) one similar also... I've got a set of 15x8's like them....

Alan, I think we should give Alfa the "atta-boy" award for even knowing who Groucho is..... If he can name all the Marx brothers, we'll have to send him a present..... and no looking it up on the internet either Lachlan! And, I also noticed the seller called it a Fairlady Z.... but I think I'd rather wait and see if he lists the early car instead....just something about a 2+2 with the G-nose......:cross-eye

Errr, that's not quite the type of "horse" I was thinking about....

Cowboys spend a lot of time on the range, whatever a range may be, whiling away their hours moseying and giddyuping. But mostly moseying. While they're doing all that moseying, they often come up with gems of wisdom we would all do well to heed. Don't squat with your spurs on. Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Always drink upstream from the herd. Letting the cat out of the bag is a whole lot easier than putting it back in. There's two theories to arguing with a woman. Neither one works. If you're riding ahead of the herd, take a look back every now and then to make sure it's still there. If you find yourself in a hole, the first thing to do is stop digging. Never drop your gun to hug a grizzly. If you get to thinking you're a person of some influence, try ordering somebody else's dog around. Never kick a cow chip on a hot day. When you give a lesson in meanness to a critter or a person, don't be surprised if they learn their lesson. Never slap a man who's chewing tobacco. When you get to the end of your rope, tie a knot and hang on.

There's a copy on Ebay right now of the second book (brand new still in the shrink wrap).. starting bid is 80 bucks, but that's a not too bad unless someone gets into a bidding war with you... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3557398917&category=1132 Here's another book also that might help. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34229&item=2436195364 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2195860075&category=14026

I apologize for doubting you and your car, but if you look at this link, I think you'll understand why most of us have some doubts about the types of people that you can run across on the internet. Most of us are the "I'll believe it when I see it" types... If this is a "race car" or even a car that anyone with any kind of sense would take out on the street. Make sure you read the description, especially the part about the seats..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2436353299&category=6187 Sadly, someone will actually believe what he is saying about the car...:disappoin

If that were a 2 seater, you'd probably need another bay in your garage about now huh? Of course, if it were a 2 seater, a lot of us would be wondering where we could put it......:devious:

I don't know what all the fuss is about, it's just a good looking looking Zed or is that Z?... Or all we all just jealous? Hmmmm, guess that would be a yes... Great score Hayden:classic: I was wondering about the dual signals too, but it kinda gives the car a little character the more you look at it. Plus a little mystery to boot.... Bet the Christmas wish list is getting longer already eh?

People who have used them that frequent the racing forums call them the Phantom Slip... so far I have yet to see anyone post much good to say about them. Perhaps on a street only driven car they might be acceptable, but you might be better off to save and get a Nismo LSD... cost more, but at least it's a known quantity.

Perhaps if you had included the info in your last post in your original post, there wouldn't have been as much skepticism.... If you had said in your original post that the info on the car was on Carl's web-site we would have believed you to begin with. If a new member were to say he's got a 71 Hemi-Cuda sitting in his driveway, that is a 1 of 1 built by the factory, I'd want to see documentation from Galen Govier to back up his claims. Wouldn't you? Same goes with a Z, if Carl says it's legit, we'll believe it. We have a couple members here that know the Japanese models and/or European models as well as Carl knows the US models.