2ManyZs

As far as the weight difference betwen the Toyota calipers and the stock ones, I can hardly tell the difference. I just got a set of the S12's and holding them in one hand and a stock caliper in the other, I can hardly tell a difference in weight. I don't have a good scale to weigh them on, but the difference is not as big as you would think. The body of the caliper is larger, but the pistons are so much smaller in the Toyota calipers, that I think they would actually come out pretty close in weight.

There is probably air trapped in the master cylinder. Try opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder just a very little bit, and pump the clutch pedal a couple times. Opening the bleeder slightly will give a little backpressure on the master and hopefully that will get the trapped air out. Most times, after the air is bled out of the master cylinder, you can open the bleeder on the slave and the fluid will feed through with just gravity. Just be sure to keep the master cylinder full while you are bleeding the slave cylinder or you'll end up starting all over.

Nope....:disappoin You're gonna have to pick the engine up just enough to give you room enough to unbolt them. Unless you want to try a board (2x6 would work)that goes the whole width of the oil pan, and lift it with a floor jack. Might make a mess of the finish on the oil pan..... You are only going to have to pick it up about an inch or maybe two at most... only enough to give you enough room to unbolt the mounts and put them on the correct sides....

Only two things I can think of on that side of the engine that might have caused it.. either it was rubbing against the battery cable, or could it have been running against the starter? It doesn't look like it's any longer than the stock one, but if it is longer, that's all I can think of. Or else it was just a faulty hose to begin with....

Mark, if you stand back an look at them a minute, you'll see that the drivers side is slightly longer than the passengers side, which give the engine its "tilt".... At least you only have to take the weight off the motor to change them around... better than pulling it all back out and chance a scratch in the paint job.:cross-eye

No such luck.. these will be R-200's from Z31's.....

By the looks of it, you are looking at another 900( the best floor pans are almost 400) in patch panels to fix the obvious rust, cuz when you get into it, you are probably going to find even more rust. Battery area looks kinda suspect and I'd imagine you'll find rust in the rockers going by the condition of the floors. Unless you plan on making this a long term project, I'd look for something a little better. Or, if you can talk him down a couple hundred, this would make a good parts car. Too bad the rest of the car isn't as clean as the engine....

Bigger garages just get filled with more "stuff"... :stupid:

Here's one in your area that doesn't look to be too bad... needs some work, but maybe you can go in together with someone and buy both of them.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2433426259&category=6187

Unless you are planning on welding steel that is thicker than 3/8ths, a 110 volt model would probably do nearly any job you would need it for, and save you a couple hundred in the process. I've got one of the small Lincoln's and it does a fine job up to 3/16 steel(I haven't needed it for anything thicker) and with the gas upgrade, I think you could get one of these ready to go for about 500 or possibly less if you shop around. As far as doing your own wiring, I wouldn't do it unless you have at least some experience. I shouldn't cost much to have an electrician do it, it's all done inside the fuse panel. Less than a half hour job.. or should be.

Seller ended the auction.. wonder if you scared them finding all those things that didn't quite fit their description....:devious: I looked at that auction a couple days ago... when I saw the snow tire referrence, I knew it couldn't be as nice as they made it out to be....if ya got snow tires for it, that usually means it's been driven in the snow and that isn't too good...

With a 7" wide rim, the best offset is 0. Larger wheels above 15 inch will require larger brakes and a lot of suspension upgrades, or it's a waste of money.

My question is do you really need that much? With an oil cooler and the associated plumbing you will be in the neighborhood of 6+ quarts. All you really need are a sump and possibly a windage tray. Phred might know how to do this or have plans on how to make one out of simple sheet metal.

Go to www.zhome.com and look down the left column, all the articles you want are already there...color codes, model changes etc.

The red one looks pretty good on the outside... well, except for the stock turn signals mounted in the grille....:sick: :sick: Gotta wonder though, why it only has a 2K Buy It Now though.... could have some serious rust underneath??????? From the outside it looks like a car that ought to fetch at least double the B-I-N price or maybe even triple... Or is it in non-driveable condition????

Take it to a better equipped tire shop... sounds like they are using a balancing machine that is a bit old and they can't balance it the way it ought to be... Most of the new balancing machines are computer controlled and they can specify whether the weights are to be mounted on the inside or outside of the rim and the machine will spin balance them accordingly. Take it somewhere that the local "ricers" do.....you know they wouldn't put weights on the outside of those 18-20 inch wheels that have no backspacing....

Phooey.. ya beat me to it Chloe.... Knew it wasn't an early 280 as I went out and found the one off the 75 I had and it says Datsun like I thought it did....have to verify my memory sometimes.... :stupid:

If you have been reading the forums, you probably have heard all the discussions on rust. A 79 ZX in your area won't be immune from rust anymore than a 240 would so be sure to check it out carefully underneath. If it has T-tops, check them as well and look for signs of leaks by loooking at the interior for water marks. Mechanically they are similar to the 280Z's, but be sure to take a long test drive.

Bambi is right, the 280's came with non-greasable U-joints from 75-78.... As far as them needing replacement often? Nope, my old 75 still has the originals in it. Been raced since 89 and was a street car with over 120K on it before it went on the track. It's my opinion that the non-serviceable sealed U-joints are actually better than the aftermarket replacements in one respect. 9 out of 10 people when greasing the U-joints force too much grease into them, thereby ruining the seals which ends up cutting into the life of the joints. If your seals are dry, and there is no play in the joint, just keep a watch on them and only replace them when you see wetness, which would indicate the seals have started to leak, and it won't be long before the needle bearings will be running without as much lube as they need, which is what will start the wear that requires replacing the joint. Also, if you were to lay a 240 and 280 joint side by side, you would see that the 280 is slightly larger and stronger. The 280 units can be replaced, but will more than likely require a press to get them out.

Don't we wish..... 71 Road Runner, with a 4 speed and even a 383 wouldn't be too bad......:devious: Even a Challenger as long as it's got a Pistol Grip would be nice..... see what I mean? What Z? I wouldn't mind having the valve cover off the Z, but looks like the car needs an awful lot of work to make it presentable again.:disappoin

It can only be 180 out of time if the cam gear was taken off the cam and not put back in the correct position, or if the distributor drive gear was removed and not put back in time correctly. Like they said, the distributor will only mount in one position on the drive gear.

Being an "old Mopar nut", that sounds like my kind of place...... I wouldn't even have noticed the Z with a 72 Cuda on the same lot...

That's a car lot? Whoever owns it must never get rid of unsold cars then... cuz some of the cars around it sure don't look like they've seen the road in years... there's a 74 or 75 Formula Firebird, 72 or so Chevelle.... must be one of those well used car lots.... The Z is either a 75 or 76 by the bumpers... if it isn't all rusted out in the floors and other of the usual places, it might be worth putting back on the road.

Looks like someone put a good bit of money in it in years gone by and had a pretty nice street car. The flares look like they were put on better than most, considering how well they still look as it looks like the car has been sitting in that junkyard for a while. I'd grab that valve cover:devious: It's an aftermarket cover anyone could buy many years ago.. and I'm not sure, but it's been quite a while since they were available. Might be something that with some clean-up could be worth a few bucks. Car doesn't look like it's worth much depending on how badly it's rustedf up underneath.

Master cylinder is always first, then RR, LR, RF then finish with LF.