2ManyZs

Go to www.zhome.com and look down the left column, all the articles you want are already there...color codes, model changes etc.

These should be a warning to all men..... especially if you honk the horn behind number 10 on the list.... 1. SO MANY MEN, SO FEW WHO CAN AFFORD ME. 2. GOD MADE US SISTERS; PROZAC MADE US FRIENDS. 3. IF THEY DON'T HAVE CHOCOLATE IN HEAVEN, I AIN'T GOING. 4. MY MOTHER IS A TRAVEL AGENT FOR GUILT TRIPS. 5. PRINCESS, HAVING HAD SUFFICIENT EXPERIENCE WITH PRINCES, SEEKS FROG. 6. COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, MEN. . . SOME THINGS ARE JUST BETTER RICH. 7. DON'T TREAT ME ANY DIFFERENTLY THAN YOU WOULD THE QUEEN. 8. IF YOU WANT BREAKFAST IN BED, SLEEP IN THE KITCHEN. 9. DINNER IS READY WHEN THE SMOKE ALARM GOES OFF. 10. I'M OUT OF ESTROGEN-AND I HAVE A GUN. 11. GUYS HAVE FEELINGS TOO. BUT LIKE...WHO CARES? 12. NEXT MOOD SWING: 6 MINUTES. 13. AND YOUR POINT IS...? 14. WARNING: I HAVE AN ATTITUDE AND I KNOW HOW TO USE IT. 15. OF COURSE I DON'T LOOK BUSY...I DID IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. 16. DO NOT START WITH ME. YOU WILL NOT WIN. 17. YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TO REMAIN SILENT, SO PLEASE SHUT UP. 18. ALL STRESSED OUT AND NO ONE TO CHOKE. 19. I'M ONE OF THOSE BAD THINGS THAT HAPPEN TO GOOD PEOPLE. 20. HOW CAN I MISS YOU IF YOU WON'T GO AWAY? 21. SORRY IF I LOOKED INTERESTED. I'M NOT. 23. IF WE ARE WHAT WE EAT, I'M FAST, CHEAP AND EASY. 24. DON'T UPSET ME! I'M RUNNING OUT OF PLACES TO HIDE THE BODIES.

That deserves a spot in the Darwin awards.....:cross-eye

The red one looks pretty good on the outside... well, except for the stock turn signals mounted in the grille....:sick: :sick: Gotta wonder though, why it only has a 2K Buy It Now though.... could have some serious rust underneath??????? From the outside it looks like a car that ought to fetch at least double the B-I-N price or maybe even triple... Or is it in non-driveable condition????

Take it to a better equipped tire shop... sounds like they are using a balancing machine that is a bit old and they can't balance it the way it ought to be... Most of the new balancing machines are computer controlled and they can specify whether the weights are to be mounted on the inside or outside of the rim and the machine will spin balance them accordingly. Take it somewhere that the local "ricers" do.....you know they wouldn't put weights on the outside of those 18-20 inch wheels that have no backspacing....

Phooey.. ya beat me to it Chloe.... Knew it wasn't an early 280 as I went out and found the one off the 75 I had and it says Datsun like I thought it did....have to verify my memory sometimes.... :stupid:

If you have been reading the forums, you probably have heard all the discussions on rust. A 79 ZX in your area won't be immune from rust anymore than a 240 would so be sure to check it out carefully underneath. If it has T-tops, check them as well and look for signs of leaks by loooking at the interior for water marks. Mechanically they are similar to the 280Z's, but be sure to take a long test drive.

Bambi is right, the 280's came with non-greasable U-joints from 75-78.... As far as them needing replacement often? Nope, my old 75 still has the originals in it. Been raced since 89 and was a street car with over 120K on it before it went on the track. It's my opinion that the non-serviceable sealed U-joints are actually better than the aftermarket replacements in one respect. 9 out of 10 people when greasing the U-joints force too much grease into them, thereby ruining the seals which ends up cutting into the life of the joints. If your seals are dry, and there is no play in the joint, just keep a watch on them and only replace them when you see wetness, which would indicate the seals have started to leak, and it won't be long before the needle bearings will be running without as much lube as they need, which is what will start the wear that requires replacing the joint. Also, if you were to lay a 240 and 280 joint side by side, you would see that the 280 is slightly larger and stronger. The 280 units can be replaced, but will more than likely require a press to get them out.

Don't we wish..... 71 Road Runner, with a 4 speed and even a 383 wouldn't be too bad......:devious: Even a Challenger as long as it's got a Pistol Grip would be nice..... see what I mean? What Z? I wouldn't mind having the valve cover off the Z, but looks like the car needs an awful lot of work to make it presentable again.:disappoin

whadeesay?

It can only be 180 out of time if the cam gear was taken off the cam and not put back in the correct position, or if the distributor drive gear was removed and not put back in time correctly. Like they said, the distributor will only mount in one position on the drive gear.

Being an "old Mopar nut", that sounds like my kind of place...... I wouldn't even have noticed the Z with a 72 Cuda on the same lot...

That's a car lot? Whoever owns it must never get rid of unsold cars then... cuz some of the cars around it sure don't look like they've seen the road in years... there's a 74 or 75 Formula Firebird, 72 or so Chevelle.... must be one of those well used car lots.... The Z is either a 75 or 76 by the bumpers... if it isn't all rusted out in the floors and other of the usual places, it might be worth putting back on the road.

Looks like someone put a good bit of money in it in years gone by and had a pretty nice street car. The flares look like they were put on better than most, considering how well they still look as it looks like the car has been sitting in that junkyard for a while. I'd grab that valve cover:devious: It's an aftermarket cover anyone could buy many years ago.. and I'm not sure, but it's been quite a while since they were available. Might be something that with some clean-up could be worth a few bucks. Car doesn't look like it's worth much depending on how badly it's rustedf up underneath.

Master cylinder is always first, then RR, LR, RF then finish with LF.

Don't you mean "up" to help you?........ That would make a nice pic for the gallery.....Cruiser with his hands dirty.... Probably fall asleep on the creeper....:devious: and spill his beer all over himself..... :disappoin

I don't know that it makes any difference, but on the blue car, notice the rubber hold downs on the hood? Didn't the Works cars use hood pins? These look to be the "rubber bungee" type you see on a lot of commercial cargo boxes although they are mounted in almost the same spot as the factory hood pins. Can't tell what the car in the black and white photo has, but it looks like the hood has popped open and is only held closed by the safety catch.... I like the way they made the "cow-catcher" on the blue car... almost looks like a copy of a Jag E-type grill opening in it's shape in a way....maybe there's some English ties to that team?

Just got through looking at the application chart and it looks like the Toyota front caliper upgrades, either the S12's or the S12W's use the same bleeder as the stock Z calipers(639560)..... so you won't have to buy new bleeders if you decide to upgrade your calipers....

Oops, I didn't word that right did I?:stupid: I should have said they have them in stock that will work to replace all the bleeders on the car. The rear cylinders on the cars up to 78 require part number 639570 which is a 7mm bleeder and not a 10mm....

If anyone wants to try them, here's a good place to get them for a decent price. I've bought a few sets, but haven't been able to try them yet. If they work as advertised, brake bleeding will be a one person job and a lot simpler than it ever was before.... I'm fairly sure these will fit not only the brake calipers and rear cylinders, but also the master cylinders and slave cylinder as well. I got the last two pairs for $6.00 a pair, which is half of what the price tag is on the package.....:classic: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33563&item=2431767097

The prices they list are the factory list price. I think all their auctions are No Reserve auctions. I'd be willing to bet, they bought all these parts for pennies on the dollar of their dealer wholesale prices. This is how companies such as Year One got their starts, they buy up all the parts that are sitting on dealers shelves that the factory won't let the dealers return for credit. They have to get rid of it sooner or later..... GM started their own Restoration Parts Group after they realized how much money was in parts that they wouldn't let the dealers return. They did a one-time return of any unsold parts that the dealers still had in stock. Some of the bigger dealers we delivered to had rented storage trailers to hold it all. We spent the better part of a week just trying to haul it all in. One local dealer( a small to mid-size dealership), had 5 storage trailers full of NOS parts for cars all the way back to the mid 60's..... I bid on the last E-88 head they listed, and had it the high bid until the last 30 seconds.... the bid went from 125.00 to 230 in 30 seconds... darn people with their DSL connections....:stupid: :devious:

These people have been listing quite a number of parts on Ebay lately, not a lot of Z parts, but there have been some decent parts going of reasonable prices. Here's one of their auctions... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2432227131&category=33617 They also have a new front crossmember listed as well..... This is the second E-88 head and about the 3rd crossmember I've seen, so far they don't seem to have a lot of different parts to choose from for early cars.

yup, I've probably got a set of the clamps lying around here somewhere if that's all you need....

If it were almost any color but yelloooowww..:cross-eye It's a well put to gether car, I just can't take that much yellow on one car. Just my opinion... It's already up to 7K with only 5 bids, I'd be willing to bet it will go to 10-12K. Maybe a bit higher, but it's hard to judge the interest.

See no reason why you couldn't. The mustache bar is flexible enough on the end that you shouldn't have to worry about the outside diameter of the sleeve, as long as the inside diameter is correct. After you put the insert in, you could always put the end in a vice and tighten the rolled end and spot weld it fast to keep the insert as tight as possible if you don't want to try rolling the ends over like the original insert was. Otherwise, I think you would have to stake the insert in somehow, to keep if from moving in the mustache bar and causing a squeek.