2ManyZs

That would probably be the biggest issue.. of course, then you've got to find a way to mount the throttle trigger switch, and plumb the system. Then there is always the issue of enough fuel, but that all depends on how much NOS you are going to use... And then there could be an issue of jetting of the carbs at WOT with the NOS on.. whether or not you would have the right amount of fuel to mix with the NOS so you don't end up burning a piston........you would probably need quite a bit richer mixture when the NOS is on... and would that affect the carbs mixtures when under normal driving? Or would this system have the nozzle that feeds fuel and NOS at the same time? If so, then you'd have to not only plumb in 6 nozzles for the NOS, but you'd also have to plumb up another fuel system for the nozzles..... Lot's of "ifs".....no real answers from me cuz I don't know that I would want to try to figure it out... especially by the trial and error method.. could get expensive....:cross-eye

At least he isn't trying to make a huge profit off them because they are NLA.....

Reasonable?:cross-eye Nope, none that I can think of... you'd almost have to have a NOS fogger nozzle in each of the intake runners downwind of the carbs. Unless you used an airbox such as TWM has and then you could put the nozzle in the airbox, but then, you might not get even distribution to all the carbs. If you had FI it would be simple....

It's OK to remove it, but, the worst part is you'll have to pull the hub to do it... Probably easier to just get a good set of tin snips and trim it a little to fit the caliper.....or a Dremel tool and then just file it (or sand it with the Dremel) off where you cut it just so you don't snag your hand on it later....

Getting back to the original thread subject... look what I just found on Ebay....not a bad price for 4 either..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2430893810&category=33700

JSK has the spacers on Ebay as well....

Car isn't painted yet so no need for a grille in it just yet...:disappoin I did get mine from Nismoparts.com last year....the only difference in the mounts will be if you have a 73 or later car.. BTW Brett, MidwestZ, our new advertiser can get the grille and will ship overseas and you'll also get a 10% discount by being a member here. Check out the other thread on the grill... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=52888#post52888

Believe ZeddFindings will sell just the rails, and they shouldn't be too hard to take off with a good spot weld cutter. You'll have to grind the flange clean along the bottom to find the spot welds and then just drill them out. When you put the new ones on, you can either have them spot welded at a shop, drill holes in them and fill them with weld as a replacement for a spot weld, or seam weld them back on. Spot weld cutter I have are from Eastwoods and they work excellent. Right now the pair are on sale for 42.99 for a 3/8 and 1/2 inch.. part number 19004 But to be honest, I think on a Z all you would really need is the 3/8 cutter as most all the spot welds on a Z are rather small and they are all the same size that I have found so far....

FWIW, the grill that is available now does have the gunmetal grey finish. Mine looks to have a decent coat of paint, but before I put it on the car I'm going to put a couple good coats of clear on it just for insurance.... I guess we refer to the grill as the Nismo grille, because the only way we can get them in the US is to go through Nismo to get it. Another thread just ended up discussing the grille and where it can still be found.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=52833#post52833 Chloe, just curious if you can also get the grille? Nismoparts.com won't ship overseas, so was curious if you could for anyone who might want one....?

Here's a pic of mine that is still waiting to go on the car....:disappoin

Well, I don't know for sure if they still have them, but their web-site still shows them available... but, you never know until you order if they are still available. Go to http://www.nismoparts.com/ then click on catalog, then put in part number 62300-N3000 and you'll see the price.. :classic: You might also check with MidwestZ to see if she has a supplier as well, and you'll get a discount to boot...:cheeky:

Should be able to find them from Jegs or Summit Racing for Mustangs or Camaro's.... not sure if they would have the right bend in them though to clear in a Z....

I don't think they look bad... although, I prefer the look of Panasports....or maybe it's just the color of the car that makes them less than perfect... I just get a kick out of people's descriptions on Ebay... Mesh grill rare and expensive? Not... N42 rare and expensive? Not.....

Could be just a loose wire cutting it out. Check all the connections from the distributor to the coil. Could be a wire is corroded and partially broken as well.... I've found many wires on a couple cars that were so hard that you couldn't bend them and then they just snap when you try to bend them. If not there, since the tach is going dead, it could also be a problem in the ignition switch or wiring to or from it as well.....

It's been done before. The main problem is all the chassis reinforcement that has to be done to mount the locating links as the unibody wasn't designed to be used as a suspension mounting point that locates the rear end. You end up almost having to rebuild the entire rear clip to locate the rear, which in the long run would probably end up adding a significant amount of weight. Hot Rod magazine did a 240 many years ago with a 9" rear and a V-8. I've still got the magazine around here somewhere.... maybe I can dig it up and scan the pics of the work they did to mount the rear.

Picture doesn't show the faces of the ring gear very clearly, but it doesn't look to be galled. Spider gears have some wear but that isn't the most important part. Looks pretty good to me...

Uh... you might want to re-think your parameters for your discount... besides you and I there are only 3 other members over 1K posts.....:stupid: :devious:

Should be an easy choice... always choose the chassis with less rust, unless the rust on one car is only on the outer body panels that can be easily replaced. In your case, I'd keep the yellow one.....

Do 3K posts get me them for half price???? ROFL :cheeky:

If I remember right, the ground wire is connected to the bottom of the air flow meter body. The air flow meter does need to be grounded, the rubber grommets on the bracket are there to shield the air flow meter from vibration, or I should say the potentiometer needs to be shielded from vibration.. Because they also will not let the air flow meter ground, the wire needs to be connected.

Ouch.. and I thought my parts car was rusty.... maybe there is hope for mine yet...:cross-eye

I'm wondering if you don't have a voltage regulator problem that is causing too much voltage...the fan speeding up with the RPM's seems to point in that direction... all your problems could be caused by too high a voltage from the alternator, you should verify your voltage regulator before you do any more driving as if it is what I'm suspicious of, it could result in a battery explosion.:cross-eye

Boy... what a question....:cross-eye If money were no object, and in no particular order... Z32 Convertible Z32TT 67 Roadster Skyline GTR 65 GTO, gotta be six barrel and 4 speed 70 Tran Am, gotta be Ram Air lll or lV Another 73 Cuda, only this time with a crate Hemi and 4 speed Viper GTS or the new "real" convertible Ram RT/S Hemi Superbird or Daytona 79/80 Aston Martin Vantage Volante, gotta be a manual Any of the original AAR Trans Am Cuda's BMW M3 or M5 Gullwing Mercedes Sunbeam Tiger Race cars? EP 240Z 600 Racing Thunder Roadster FFR Cobra Spec Racer Cobra AAR Cuda to race Vintage BSR C-Production 240Z replica 96-99 American Eagle Coach with a three car enclosed trailer behind it?

I thought that pic looked familiar when I first looked at it...:stupid: Guess I should have known....:devious:

Me thinks these would be a tad closer.....:cross-eye http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=8068