2ManyZs

Makes you want to stay inside during a thunderstorm...

During the big Blackout of 2003.... or maybe a better title would be"Where were you when the lights went out?"

Results using the search box show quite a few threads on the subject... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?action=showresults&searchid=60420&sortby=&sortorder=

Easy to do and it's rather inexpensive insurance. Pull the drian plug out of the bottom and drain it, pull the plug on the passengers side to fill it. The hardest part is getting the lube back in it, most times I use a clear neoprene hose and run it from the engine compartment down into the fill hole and re-fill it. The diff is done the same way, as the mustache bar makes it a little difficult to pour directly from the container, pull the drain plug, and re-fill through the top plug. Changing both will cost you in the neighborhood of 25-40 dollars depending on which brand of lube you choose if you switch over to synthetic, even less if you go with non-synthetic lube. If you want some imprevement, go to a synthetic lube such as Red-Line MTL for the tans, and 75-90 for the diff. You'll get a bit slicker shifts and it will last much longer than regular lube. You don't have a filter on the trans or diff to get the contaminants out of the lube like you do an engine, but you still change your engine oil regularly right? So why not change the lube in the trans and diff both and get longer life out of the bearings,synchro's and gears? All the fine metal particles in the diff and trans have no place to go excpet to keep getting dissolved in the lube and spread throught out the case. Once the drain plug magnet builds up to a certian point with shavings, it is no longer going to pull the shavings out of the lube.

Since it's all one panel from the bottom to the inside hatch area, there's no replacement for the section below the lights. Only a couple places have the section inside the hatch. Unless you can find a NOS one from Nissan that has been NLA for years.:disappoin If there's no rust anywhere else, especially inside the hatch, probably a small patch panel is about the only way to go.

Can ya put me down in your will for the Roadster? Got enough parts... just need a couple more driveable cars....

Radiator is kinda high priced when you can buy one from Summit for 300 or so... But, the fuse box is gonna sell like crazy even at 200 bucks a shot...:tapemouth Makes me wish I had made it.....

It will work fine, the only thing is you would want to use the early mounts to mount the bumper closer to the body. They aren't too hard to find, you might even get lucky and find brand new ones yet from some of the major suppliers. The main difference in the bumpers themselves is the mounts, and where the upright "bumper guards" are mounted. The early cars are mounted further apart than the later cars. The 73's use a rubber "filler" between the bumper and the body as the mounts they used mounted the bumper further away from the body.

Air cleaner is correct, it's the early cars that have the winter/summer manual control. The door lock is kinda odd, but in a way it is a good idea:ermm: The only thing that I'd be skeptical of is the gas tank with pinholes... sounds like it either needs a whole new tank, or maybe it's just the vent lines that are leaking....:stupid: The interior looks pretty orginal except for the stereo, but the fading of the door panels say it is orginal. Looks like this car would need a lot of work on the interior, but after that it would be pretty nice. It says it is re-painted the original color, yet underhood is black... wonder what's up with that? One small item, it has the later black wiper arms... but they don't diminish the value since they are easily changed.

Still running the stock FI? If so, first thing I would check is the AFM and see if the flap is working correctly. While you are turning the motor over, check to see if the injectors are firing by placing a long screwdriver on the metal hold down ring and place your ear on it for a "stethoscope". No noise? Electrical problem possibly tied to the wiring around the distributor. Just and FIY, you ought to get rid of the mechanical pump if the electric one is operating OK. No need for both on a FI car anyways. If the electric goes bad, the mechanical would have a hard time pulling fuel through the non-operating electric. I'd say if it was runnning before you pulled the distributor, you might not have a wire secure somewhere and the injectors may not be firing correctly.

It should..... but I could be wrong... I can't think of any reason they wouldn't.....

If you have fairly skinny forearms and don't mind a few scratches from the rear panel you can change that one without dropping the tank all the way. It would be a bit easier if you loosen the tank straps so you can slide the tank foreward an inch or so.... I've done it on a couple cars.. but I was blessed with long skinny arms.... it's kinda hard to see what you are doing while your arm is up in there.. but it's not too bad. The worst part will be trying to feed that hose up through the floor into the car. It's much easier to feed it up through the floor than to try to feed the end with the 90 degree bend down thru the floor, at least that's if you are using the stock replacement hose like I did. I just put my tank back in mine, and forgot to put that hose on before I put the tank straps on.... got in a bit of a hurry as it's been over a year since the tank came out...:tapemouth at least I remembered to feed the hose through the body before I put the tank in. :stupid:

Haven't seen any rust through... but have seen some weakened by rust and get trashed in other ways.. I've got a couple sets, but unfortunately they are still holding up the car they are attached too.....if you can't find any, let me know and maybe I can get the cars dragged out of the woods and pull some parts off before they go to the crusher...

I just put mine back in or I'd go look..... but if I remember right there was only a small gap separating the baffle from the tank on the ends. I don't remember seeing any openings along the bottom of the baffle.

That's what I was thinking Ron, there's too much price difference... so you gotta wonder about the quality of the cheaper one. Plus, it's a carbon fiber/fiberglass hood. It's only as good as its weakest link, which would be the fiberglass he used to make the frame and hinge mounts. I don't know about Les' hood, whether it's all carbon fiber or not, so I can't say it isn't worth 600... but that's an awful lot of money just so you can say you've got a carbon fiber hood.....

Sounds to me like alternator or voltage regulator has died, and you were running off battery voltage. You should be able to take the alternator off and have it tested at most of the auto parts stores before you start buying parts that you may or may not need.

You can also get them here...http://www.classicdatsun.com/ At 600 bucks, is it really worth it?

It depends on which hose it is. Is it the large one in the back of the tank or the smaller one on the front? If it is the large one in the back, you'll need to either get the original or make one up using a piece of tybing as it has a 90 degree bend in it. The smaller one in the front can be replaced by regular 3/8 fuel hose, but it too has a sharp bend, but it you loop it around you can make it work. The larger hose in the back doesn't have any room to make a loop instead of the 90 degree bend so you have to splice one together using tubing to make your bend in it. This large one is the most critical as that is where the air will escape to vent the tank while you are filling it. FWIW, that large hose is still available, although it is expensive, about 50 bucks from MSA. If you try to make up your own, you'll almost have to drop the tank some so you can get your hands up in there to work as there is very little room as you probably have seen already. Easiest way is to use the original unless you want to go through the hassle of dropping the tank down to make room to work so you can fab up a replacement.

Thanks Alan, but there is no hurry as long as you can get the correct measurements that's all I'll need, looks like it will be next summer before the car ever gets back on the road anyways...:disappoin Unless you want to post the measurements for others that is... In all the pics I've seen of them I never noticed that they were mounted differently side to side...

While we are on the subject Alan, is there a diagram or the measurements as to where the mounting holes should be for these? I've got a set of the Nissan ones on the way, and I want to mount them in the proper position, and since I doubt they come with a paper template to mark the position of the holes, I was hoping you might know where one could find the measurements. I hate to drill the holes but....

Yup, anything that can be unbolted from the car is OK in fiberglass or whatever..... Unless someone comes up with patch panels for the unibody or chassis that are made of carbon fiber with a some way to bond the two together that is..... That might be the answer instead of hammering out metal patch panels..be kinda expensive though.......:cross-eye

This is not a hoax - it really works. Try it for yourself. Google has implemented a new feature wherein you can type someone's telephone number into the search bar and hit enter and then you will be given a map to their house. Think about it-if a child, single person, ANYONE gives out his/her phone number, someone can actually now look it up to find out where he/she lives. The safety issues are obvious, and alarming, depending. . . This is not a hoax; Mapquest will actually put a star on your house on your street. In order to test whether your phone number is mapped, go to: www.google.com and type your phone number in the search bar with dashes (i.e. 555-555-1212) and hit enter (or Google Search). NOTE: If your phone number is not publicly listed, you should be fine. If you want to BLOCK Google from divulging your private information, simply click on the telephone icon next to your phone number. You will see a link where you are allowed to REMOVE yourself. This can be a useful business tool, or an invasion of privacy ... depending upon how you view it. Decide for yourself.

First thing I would check is the small pins that are on the backside of the wheel to cancel the turn signals. Make sure they aren't out to far and rubbing on the end of the column.

Well, you're right, they are hard to find... :tapemouth I know I have at least 4 somewhere..... might take a day or two to find the right box or jar or drawer or........:cross-eye

How many do you need? I think I remember seeing some in a box somewhere in my shop... finding the right box might be a problem though.....:stupid: