2ManyZs

Looking at the door jambs on that one, I'd say it's a faded 110.

Well, the old ITS car I had was at 5 inches to the bottom of the rocker panel(ITS rules) and that was a bit low for use on the street. Made for very little clearance on the exhaust, and air dam. Also made for short suspension travel too. I can get some measurements off one my buddies cars at the next race and measure them at the crossmembers, next race is the 26th.

Sounds like water either seeped into a connection or when you ran the car you got condensation as it cooled. Get a can of WD-40, spray a little into all the plug wire ends, and inside the distributor cap on the contacts and inside the plug wires in the cap as well. If that doesn't help, just start pulling wiring connectors one at a time and do the same thing.

The little hole you're talking about could be at the end of the factory "strenghtening" panel on the inner fender, which many cars will have a small hole there. My 71 had a small opening there due to the fact that it wasn't seam welded there at the factory like it probably should have been. You have 3 (or is it 4 panels) joining at this area, firewall, frame rail, inner fender and that small rectangular panel as well. My 71 also had similar uneven seams under the hatch, and it ended up being seam sealer.

Judging it only but the pic, it looks like the intake is off a 77 or 78 280Z(if it has webbing between the intake runners, which it looks to have), so if all the parts came from the same car they should either be 77 or 78.

The spindle pins don't have to be touched if all they are doing is changing the strut cartridges. Sounds to me like you should pick up the car and take it somewhere that won't try to give you the shaft. The only special tool needed is a set of decent spring compressors, in fact, the job can be done without a set of compressors (for those of us who have done it many times anyways) and only a couple hand tools. I think you ought to get in touch with John or Pete with the ZCCNE, they can tell you where to take it, or they might even offer to help you do it yourself.

If all the springs and fingers are still in the pressure plate and the center of the clutch disc is OK, I'd guess either the pressure plate wasn't torqued properly or, possibly the flywheel is warped or damaged in some way. One other possibility could be the input shaft of the transmission is bent, or the bearing is bad in the front of the case, which put excess strain on the clutch. I haven't seen a pressure plate case break like that unless there was a failure elsewhere and "shrapnel" caused it to break.

Actually, Pierce Manifold is the one I meant to paste....:stupid: :cross-eye Their linkage kits aren't cheap, so don't get sticker shock if it's not what you hoped to spend.

Parts of the linkage may be original, but not all of it. You should be able to find replacement parts or possibly a complete new linkage kit for the dual Webers here: http://www.twminduction.com/

If the bondo is cracked, the only way to repair it properly is to grind it out and start all over again. If it has been cracked for more than a day, I can guarantee there is moisture soaking into the bondo and if it hasn't rusted already, it will. Bondo will soak up water like a sponge and remain moist for years.

Have you looked in the hardware section of Lowe's or possibly Home Depot? Never know what you can find there, they (Lowe's) usually have a lot of things you wouldn't expect. Can't vouch for HD, as I have a hard time finding anything in those stores, they are some of the most dis-organized places I've ever seen.......

When I pulled the glove compartment out of my parts car I was surprised there wasn't a mouse nest in there like there was the last time I looked in the car. When I pulled the glove box out, I found out why..... On top of the glove box was a skin left by a pretty good sized (2-3 foot)black snake. :devious:

I don't know if you guys have access to Hawk pads "down under", but they have a great selection of friction materials to choose from. They may even have a standard pad that will work in the Toyota calipers, without having to resort to having them use your old backing plates to make new ones. http://www.hawkperformance.com/

When I had one that was stubborn, I'd take a 1 or 2lb hammer and give it a couple whacks on the head of the bolt, sometimes the shock will help break em loose. Used this trick on many stubborn head bolts on old Cummins diesels. Then it's either a breaker bar, or a stronger impact......

Sounds like the tank if full of garbage and it's clogging up the fuel filter. Rust scale and old gas in the tank will only keep doing this over and over until you drain, flush, and clean the fuel lines, tank and pickup screen in the tank. The carbs may be OK, but until you get the tank issue taken care of, I'd leave them alone. As far as where to get it done, try PM'ing one of our members in the UK. "HS30-H" and "Black Beaut" are two that come to mind off the top of my head. There are others, but these two visit here more often than the rest, at least lately that is....

They will fit, but they 280 springs will be longer than the replacement 240 springs and you'll end up with a taller ride height unless you cut the springs. As for what you could get, it's difficult to tell about Ebay.... some people will pay as much or more than the original price for things, and other times you have a hard time getting half your investment back.

All I can say is "Ouch"........:tapemouth What you will need under the battery and forward of that is not available as patch panels or reproduction pieces. It will have to be fabricated and welded in. Or, find yourself a fairly decent parts car that can "donate" what you need, which in the long run, might be your best option. It's gonna take a lot of time, patience, work and money, but it can and has been done successfully. The main things I see that you will need is a patch panel under the battery all the way down to the frame rail, and a patch panel will need to be fabricate at the bottom of the inner fender where it meets the frame rail in the engine bay. One of our members recently had nearly the same problem and if you look in his gallery, you'll see some pics of his car before and after the repairs were done. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&si=&page=2&sort=7&perpage=12&password=&ppuser=3648&stype= How much? Hard to tell, but it's gonna be in the 1K-2K depending on what the shop that does the repairs charges by the hour for labor. :cross-eye

Here's the rear one that is on my IT car. The front had a rod end that was bolted onto the end of the bar(end of the bar was threaded) and then was on an adjustable link to the control arm. The front one didn't mount to the stock location though, as it was past the rear edge of the control arm and because the bar probably should have been an inch or two shorter. Before you ask, no, they aren't for sale and no, I don't know who (or what manufacturer) supplied the bars. I didn't build the car, and the PO is not with us anymore, so I can't ask him who he got the bars from. His crew chief might know, but, since it has been years since he and his buddy built the car, I wouldn't expect him to remember.

Hmm, I found them a while back and was thinking about a couple things that I was thinking of making myself.....:devious: Let us know how things turn out. You gonna weld these in or bolt them onto the strut tower like the GC plates?

Been a while since I looked at one closely, but isn't it just a simple roll pin that holds it in place? Ought to be able to find one at any hardware store if it is.

The trans cooler in the radiator wouldn't have passages that would flow the engine oil, as it is designed for a light viscosity oil such as transmission fluid. Not only that, but the oil pressure would almost certainly cause problems as the radiator isn't designed for that high a pressure with such a heavy oil. Better to get a relocation kit and do a proper engine oil cooler in front of the radiator.

They almost look like old Centerline wheels to me. You might be better off to contact the people who restored the car to find out. Les at Classic Datsun Motorsports did the resto, so he'd be the person to ask. http://www.classicdatsun.com/

No, it's not a simple bolt on as he describes, especially on the rear. Anyone with an Ebay username like his wouldn't get my business even if what he claimed were true....

I seem to remember reading about it being proposed for the US. I think at the time the major stumbling block would have been the emissions certification that could have caused it to be passed over. If anything could have killed it as proposed, it probably was getting it certified for sale in the US with all the new emissions rules that were being passed in the early 70's. I'd bet if Mr. K could have had his way, the US and the rest of the world would have received the 432R's, or a very close copy of it.

Well, if it's only Solo, you could always just use a roll bar from Kirk or Autopower and bolt that in and then add to it later.... As far as I know, Kirk will build you whatever you want and their prices are quite reasonable. Don't know if their is anyone similar in Canada, but there has to be someone somewhere that will do custom cage work and build you what you want once you decide on how much structure you need.