2ManyZs

Before you leave, soak it as much as possible with a good penetrating oil. Who knows, it might loosen it up enough to remove it when you get back. Be sure to put as much as possible in the hole the lock pin came out of so that it soaks into the center of the pin. What would be really nice is if you could find a long shallow pan that it would fit into that you could let it soak in penetrating fluid while you are away....:devious:

I think I would stick with the SU's until you decide if you want to upgrade the cam. If you plan on upgrading the cam, then go with the PHH's.....

That's why I quit riding street bikes back in the 80's.... the new ones today would scare even a good rider with their speed and acceleration potentials...I know the 500 Interceptor I had could get me into trouble in a hurry and it is a dog compared to the 600's today.... I find it hard to believe in today's litigious society someone hasn't filed a suit against the manufacturers of today's sport bikes.... too much potential to sell to anyone off the street with absolutely no experience IMO....

I don't know if it's just the out of focus pics or not, but I notice a lot of waviness in the passengers side dog leg and lower front fender too... could be a sign of repairs to come... I see he updated his description, my car is 749 and this one is 765... probably built the same day.....

If it's pushing water over into the overflow bottle, I'd say it's either a blow head gasket or a bad radiator cap that is causing it to build up too much pressure in the radiator. If it's just a bad cap, it could be causing air pockets in the cooling system that is causing the pump to cavitate and cutting down the flow through the radiator. Put a new cap on it and see if that helps any... if not.. then it's time to do some more testing.....While you are at it, flush the system with a good cooling system flush.. Stop Leak will only make the problem worse....

It's an R-200... you can usually tell by the vent on top.. the R-200 sits further to the right on the case than the R-180 which sits more in the middle of the rear case.

The 73's were terrible until the factory did a recall and installed a larger engine fan, electric fuel pump and all the fuel line insulation. After that they were better, but still not up to what the earlier cars offered. Guess a lot of people were disappointed with the 73's...

I'm starting to wonder why there have been so many low mileage, "survivor" cars that seem to be all 73's, and orange to boot.... Maybe the cars gave the owners so much trouble they just packed them away? Or they didn't like it after they bought it?

I like it except for the "bulldog" nose.....:cross-eye

Not much sense in paying Courtesy 70 bucks for the FSM on CD, when you can a new FSM from Andy Russell for 72 and take it to the garage with you.... I know, you can always print a page from the CD, but then you'd end up with a book wouldn't you? z@datsundude.com He can get most all the years as far as I know.

Well, gues that means I'm now the only one who hasn't seen it... Just as well, I heard they had planned on calling it, "The Rice and the Ridiculous"..... :devious: Now we have a sequel, "Too Rice, Too Ridiculous"

I had mine plugged off at the front on the race car with no trouble, although a lot of people run the line from the front to the rear of the head. IIRC, the 280's had a screw in pipe nipple at the front and it was as easy as pulling that and replacing it with a pipe plug as well as the one on the rear of the head. Less likely to spring a leak that way.

It should angle back slightly, but it should be nearly vertical and not angle in towards the hatch or centerline. You might be able to bend the motor mount slightly to get it right, or you could set it to where you like it and tighten the body mount and then do what you need to do to the lower mount so that it doesn't move the motor.

Actually, that's the best looking 280ZX I've seen in a while...:devious: The only things wrong I see with it are the fact it's an automatic:sick:, and it need to be painted in the BSR colors.... The paint job is a bit much... maybe if it were a dark grey with only the red stripe across the front and down the sides.........

The phenolic spacers serve a couple purposes. First is to insulate the carb body from the intake so that heat will not migrate from the intake to the carb body. Second, to lenghten the intake runner slightly to help better atomize the mixture, as you will notice the intakes are a bit on the short side. Third, would be to help insulate the carbs from vibration, although the spacers are quite hard so that may not be a critical issue. They don't have anything inside them, they are merely what could be considered a very thick gasket.

If you go V-8, RB, or the Supra Turbo you would want an R-200 and the cv joint half shafts, anything less the R-180's and stock half shafts will be all you need. It's not so much the HP that would kill them, it's the torque of whatever you install that will hurt them.

Well, found the VR off the 71 and it has a plastic cover, so guess that means it's the later ones that have the little metal half cover.... Mine isn't for sale either Victor, it isn't in that great... If I find another one, I'll let ya know....

Smallest Coupe de Ville I've seen yet.... Could be a Chebbie, but looks more like a Caddy....

I'm not sure which came first, metal or plastic as I've seen so few, but I believe the early cars had the plastic ones. If I remember right, many years ago they came with the VR, but it all depended on the brand of VR you got. I've seen more of the metal ones, as they didn't crack and disintigrate like the plastic ones....

Not asking for much are ya Victor???? I haven't seen one of the plastic covers in many years.. the last time I saw a cover on a VR at all was the later metal cover.... I though I had one of the metal ones, but so far can't seem to locate it in the "Little shop of horrors".....

By the time he realizes his mistake, you should be able to find a much nicer car and then you can thumb your nose at him when he tries to get you to come back and by this one.....:devious: There's too many cars still available to buy one that needs as much as this one... they might cost a bit more to begin with, but you'll still have some things to tinker with and in the long run you'll be further ahead...

Here's another option... http://www.zcarperformance.com/ There are a few others and I believe if you look around on the IT site you might find more... http://www.improvedtouring.com/ You won't want to sell the car after you drive it with a decent coil-over set-up... you aren't going to believe the difference...:devious:

What is so special about it? The only "special" model of 280 was the Black Pearl edition..they were offered in the 2+2's if I remember right, but I would highly doubt this is one of them... unless it was black originally that is..... Maybe this other fellow ought to try to get 8K for his 73 before he tries to tell others that theirs are worthmore than they think.... He might get a surprise if his is not sold...besides, is is restored? This one needs quite a bit or work? So he thinks what?:cross-eye

IIRC the mounts are just spot welded onto the floor pan. If you get a good spot weld cutter you should be able to remover them fairly easily. Plus you'll have a hole to weld them back on the other car already. You might find a weld on either side, but you can just take that off with a grinder. I'm not sure if the 280 bar will work, seems to me like they are bent differently. It might work.. but I'm not 100% sure....

Whatdayamean what's got into me? I've always loved the M3's and M5's and some of the older BMW's.. just can't afford one. I know what you are thinking, but there isn't a new Nissan that can compare IMO. Doesn't mean I don't still love my old Datsuns.... My perfect garage would be one old 240, one 300ZXTT, one Roadster and an M3 for a daily driver.. oh, and a Dodge Ram to drive in the winter....