2ManyZs

If you are talking overall.. my money would be on BMW. Fit, finish, styling, performance, comfort, and they hold their value better than most imports. I know I'll get flamed for this, but if I had the money, I'd have an M3 or M5 as my daily driver. Luxury, style, and performance better than many so-called "true sports cars"......

UNcut ST's can't be much stiffer than the MSA springs I had with the old KYB gas strut cartridges... they weren't kidney busters, but they weren't far from it...:cross-eye The Eibach progressives are probably the best for a street car as they don't stiffen up until you really begin to use the suspension travel. I've got a set, but the rate I'm going, it will be next summer before I can put them to the test...:disappoin BTW, I just sold a set of MSA's blue sport springs, so if you look at the pics he just posted, you can see how they do in an auto-X. As for the ride, you'd have to ask him or check his posts to see how the do with the strut cartridges he's running...... I don't think you'll find a lot of difference in the springs themselves, mostly it's going to be what strut cartridges you use which make the largest difference. The better cartridges (Tokico's) will more than likely ride a lot better than if you use cheaper ones(KYB's) so the better strut cartridge you can afford, the better the ride and handling will be. The biggest difference in the springs will be the total amount they lower the car, some are 1/2 inch more or less than the others.

Unless you are getting the springs for nothing.. don't bother. First reason and the most important one is, when you use a lowering spring in the first place you will lose 'X" amount of suspension travel (X being however much the springs lower the car) and you will end up hitting the bump stops if you drive it hard and leave the bump stops the stock length. Hammer on the bump stops enough and you'll end up ruining the strut cartridges. Secondly, if you really have to have these, the best thing to do is to raise the lower spring perch to regain some of the lost travel. If you are going to do through all that work for these springs, you'd end up being better off getting a set of adjustable coil-overs as you'll be doing half the amount of work required to use these. If this is a street only or even an occasional Auto-X car, lowering springs are fine, but cut ones will be far too stiff and won't give you near enough travel on the street. FWIW, a friend of mine used a set of cut down springs like these because he didn't want to spend the money for a Ground Control coil-over kit, he had less than 2 1/2 inches of suspension travel, which meant that nearly every turn on the road course he was riding on the bump stops....hard on the kidneys, and doesn't help the handling much either...

I guess the question is, is he trying to sell you 240 inserts with the set or 280? There's a big difference if he's trying to tell you to get 280 housing while selling you 240 inserts, or if he's actually selling 280 inserts which won't fit into the 240 housing as they are physically larger. FWIW, the amount of oil in the housing will not make that much of a difference in any case, the oil will only serve to "cool" the insert up to the point that the oil is the same temp as the insert. Once they are at the same temp, the only thing that is going to conduct heat is the housing body. The only true way to cool the inserts is to use remote reservoir shocks that will replace the hot oil with cooler oil from the reservoir. And secondly, the gland nuts for the replacement cartridges will not seal the oil in the housing like the original equipment one will as they were not designed for it.

Oops, guess I should have said 49 state models... I keep forgetting about that "other" one....:devious: :cross-eye

One thing you ought to check is the cam chain... I'm wondering if your tensioner may have gone bad and allowed the chain to jump on the gear and get the timing so far out it won't run... Just take the valve cover back off and see if it is tight or if it has excessive slack in the chain. Other than what the rest have said, try changing the cap and rotor, perhaps your cap has cracked and is causing the rotor to arc and not feed enough voltage to the plugs. One way to verify you are getting fuel to all the cylinders would be to pull all the plugs, unhook the coil wire, and put your hand over the inlet of the carb while you have someone crank it over a few times, then go see if you smell gas fumes from all the cylinders. Other than that, I'm kinda stumped with the info you've given so far.. maybe with after you try a few of these tricks we can at least start to rule out some things and go on to something else....

Haynes or similar manual should do the trick, but for the absolute truth they might want to see a genuine Factory Manual. The only bad thing about that is the fact that if you have removed any of the other smog equipment they might require you to replace it... FWIW, as fas as I know, no Z's came from the factory with cat's until the ZX's debuted in 79. Only a pre-muffler or resonator was used prior to that on all the Z's.

You might as well learn some of these things the hard way like the rest of us have......:devious: You want us to take all the fun out of working on a car for ya?

VicBrit has all the hard brake lines in their catalog, more than likey MSA can get them also. If you looked up the part numbers on the Microfiche, you might even be able to get them from a dealer as well. I'm fairly sure they are all still available. You could check with Courtesy Nissan and maybe get a discount:ermm:

If you take Datsun and 240Z off it and replace it with a picture of a Z you won't have any trouble. Ebay did to you the same thing CafePress did to our store. They are worried about trademark infringement using the 240Z logo which was trademarked by Nissan and the Datsun name would be a clear violation. They can't stop anyone from using the letter Z or an image of a vehicle. It is kinda odd how it just seem to be certain people who are getting the short end of the stick though, not only by Ebay but by others as well.

First off, you don't want any "extra" room in the housing or your strut cartridge is going to move around and end up seizing. The GC system he has is probably an adjustable coil over set up that requires cutting the strut housings and welding on new lower perches. The 280 housings are longer and larger diameter than the 240, so you will want to use the 240 housing if at all possible. You probably could use the 280 housing with the GC coil overs as they will end up being nearly the exact same lenght after cutting. But, whatever he's talking about having extra room in the housing, he's BS'ing you. How hard is it to do? Scale of 1-10 with 10 being the most difficult, this would be a 9 if you don't have access to the right tools and are not an experienced welder... but then, you could always pay someone to do it....

The only thing I could think that would be different would possibly be the advance curve(different plates or springs inside perhaps)... I don't know for sure either... Enrique is right about the point dizzy's... don't think there would be much difference in the electronics, it ought to work.

Oops, kinda stuck my foot in my mouth didn't I mwz?:cross-eye I get an attitude with UPS at times, but they are no different than the Post Office, most of the time they do a good job and then once in a while they screw up. Even packages shipped by Priority Mail get lost once in a while... been there, done that.. luckily the shipper purchased the item on another auction and shipped it to me as a replacement for the one he couldn't track through the PO as he could not produce the right receipt for the shipment...

I never said to pay it Carl.... But a lot of buyers don't read the full description either.. in which case it's caveat emptor. I always read the shipping and insurance policy and won't buy from some who won't at least post their prices...That's an open invitation for someone to take your money. If for nothing other than annoying a seller, e-mail them and ask them what the shipping is going to cost and also ask if they will ship it by another avenue other than the one they have posted in their auction. Ebay is no different than buying a car or finding an "honest" mechanic, if you don't like something, go elsewhere because there will be others selling the same product. If you get taken, the one good thing about Ebay is that you can post your dissatisfaction in the feedback and if others are shopping wisely, then they will know up front what they are getting into.

Alarm system.... or a coil wired to the body....:devious: Glad you got it back in one piece... guess they must have read my post 6 minutes before you posted its return. Hmm, be a good time to post this old Clifford alarm system for sale that I found in my closet a couple weeks ago huh??:devious:

Like mperdau said, a lot of people selling parts don't bother or care to shop around for the best prices on shipping or the quickest shipper either. I just sent a box of parts to Atlanta from here, took 2 days Priority Mail for under 5 bucks. Yet, I bought something on Ebay in Kansas that is costing me 5.75 shipping by UPS and it still isn't here(shipped the 27th) even though the tracking says it should deliver today. The parts I bought could have gone into a padded envelope and gone by USPS Priority Mail and been here in no more than 3 days. I only use UPS when the package is too large for USPS... If I remember correctly, USPS has a deal with FedEX to deliver their time critical shipments.....

Let's hope it can be recovered intact, or with a little body damage. Better that than finding it piece by piece on Ebay.... FWIW, the thieves ought to recieve a full frontal lobotomy, prefereably with a "scalpel" of no less than 9MM.....:devious:

Uh, er, well Enrique... If you think about it, that bolts threads into a captured nut that is on the inside of the inner rocker... so how could you put any lube on it ,that is until the outer rocker suddenly opens up like a rotten can of tuna fish.......All the other bolts were finger tight:ermm: Yeah, this one sat outside for years before I got it... looks like it's a goner.:disappoin I think the last time it was registered was 91 or 92 and I didn't get it till 98:ermm:

Forgot the pic...:stupid:

Car looks a lot better from a distance of 250ft or more... Right Ken? The only thing keeping the car from folding up in the middle is the transmission tunnel and the roof. The floors and frame rails are gone, as well as the frame rails inside the engine compartment (someone tried to weld on C channel to keep the swaybar from falling off, it didn't work), inner hatch is rusted through etc, etc, etc..... Sadly this one is too far gone to fix.. gonna end up in pieces this summer.

Shot of passengers side quarter panel, inner and outer are completely rusted through...

Here's a shot of what the same area looks like from the outside... With a little digging, I could probably take the whole lower door jamb out with just a screwdriver or putty knife.

I was trying to remove the bolt for the passengers seat belt and this is what happened.. removed more than I expected... Rust has gone through both the inner and outer rockers, and has gone up the door jamb.

It's also rust in one of the worst possible places on the roof:disappoin

I can't stand to go back and look... P.T. Barnum said, "There's a sucker born every minute." Today it's more like one every second....:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: