2ManyZs

Well, found the VR off the 71 and it has a plastic cover, so guess that means it's the later ones that have the little metal half cover.... Mine isn't for sale either Victor, it isn't in that great... If I find another one, I'll let ya know....

Smallest Coupe de Ville I've seen yet.... Could be a Chebbie, but looks more like a Caddy....

I'm not sure which came first, metal or plastic as I've seen so few, but I believe the early cars had the plastic ones. If I remember right, many years ago they came with the VR, but it all depended on the brand of VR you got. I've seen more of the metal ones, as they didn't crack and disintigrate like the plastic ones....

Not asking for much are ya Victor???? I haven't seen one of the plastic covers in many years.. the last time I saw a cover on a VR at all was the later metal cover.... I though I had one of the metal ones, but so far can't seem to locate it in the "Little shop of horrors".....

By the time he realizes his mistake, you should be able to find a much nicer car and then you can thumb your nose at him when he tries to get you to come back and by this one.....:devious: There's too many cars still available to buy one that needs as much as this one... they might cost a bit more to begin with, but you'll still have some things to tinker with and in the long run you'll be further ahead...

Here's another option... http://www.zcarperformance.com/ There are a few others and I believe if you look around on the IT site you might find more... http://www.improvedtouring.com/ You won't want to sell the car after you drive it with a decent coil-over set-up... you aren't going to believe the difference...:devious:

What is so special about it? The only "special" model of 280 was the Black Pearl edition..they were offered in the 2+2's if I remember right, but I would highly doubt this is one of them... unless it was black originally that is..... Maybe this other fellow ought to try to get 8K for his 73 before he tries to tell others that theirs are worthmore than they think.... He might get a surprise if his is not sold...besides, is is restored? This one needs quite a bit or work? So he thinks what?:cross-eye

IIRC the mounts are just spot welded onto the floor pan. If you get a good spot weld cutter you should be able to remover them fairly easily. Plus you'll have a hole to weld them back on the other car already. You might find a weld on either side, but you can just take that off with a grinder. I'm not sure if the 280 bar will work, seems to me like they are bent differently. It might work.. but I'm not 100% sure....

Whatdayamean what's got into me? I've always loved the M3's and M5's and some of the older BMW's.. just can't afford one. I know what you are thinking, but there isn't a new Nissan that can compare IMO. Doesn't mean I don't still love my old Datsuns.... My perfect garage would be one old 240, one 300ZXTT, one Roadster and an M3 for a daily driver.. oh, and a Dodge Ram to drive in the winter....

If you are talking overall.. my money would be on BMW. Fit, finish, styling, performance, comfort, and they hold their value better than most imports. I know I'll get flamed for this, but if I had the money, I'd have an M3 or M5 as my daily driver. Luxury, style, and performance better than many so-called "true sports cars"......

UNcut ST's can't be much stiffer than the MSA springs I had with the old KYB gas strut cartridges... they weren't kidney busters, but they weren't far from it...:cross-eye The Eibach progressives are probably the best for a street car as they don't stiffen up until you really begin to use the suspension travel. I've got a set, but the rate I'm going, it will be next summer before I can put them to the test...:disappoin BTW, I just sold a set of MSA's blue sport springs, so if you look at the pics he just posted, you can see how they do in an auto-X. As for the ride, you'd have to ask him or check his posts to see how the do with the strut cartridges he's running...... I don't think you'll find a lot of difference in the springs themselves, mostly it's going to be what strut cartridges you use which make the largest difference. The better cartridges (Tokico's) will more than likely ride a lot better than if you use cheaper ones(KYB's) so the better strut cartridge you can afford, the better the ride and handling will be. The biggest difference in the springs will be the total amount they lower the car, some are 1/2 inch more or less than the others.

Unless you are getting the springs for nothing.. don't bother. First reason and the most important one is, when you use a lowering spring in the first place you will lose 'X" amount of suspension travel (X being however much the springs lower the car) and you will end up hitting the bump stops if you drive it hard and leave the bump stops the stock length. Hammer on the bump stops enough and you'll end up ruining the strut cartridges. Secondly, if you really have to have these, the best thing to do is to raise the lower spring perch to regain some of the lost travel. If you are going to do through all that work for these springs, you'd end up being better off getting a set of adjustable coil-overs as you'll be doing half the amount of work required to use these. If this is a street only or even an occasional Auto-X car, lowering springs are fine, but cut ones will be far too stiff and won't give you near enough travel on the street. FWIW, a friend of mine used a set of cut down springs like these because he didn't want to spend the money for a Ground Control coil-over kit, he had less than 2 1/2 inches of suspension travel, which meant that nearly every turn on the road course he was riding on the bump stops....hard on the kidneys, and doesn't help the handling much either...

I guess the question is, is he trying to sell you 240 inserts with the set or 280? There's a big difference if he's trying to tell you to get 280 housing while selling you 240 inserts, or if he's actually selling 280 inserts which won't fit into the 240 housing as they are physically larger. FWIW, the amount of oil in the housing will not make that much of a difference in any case, the oil will only serve to "cool" the insert up to the point that the oil is the same temp as the insert. Once they are at the same temp, the only thing that is going to conduct heat is the housing body. The only true way to cool the inserts is to use remote reservoir shocks that will replace the hot oil with cooler oil from the reservoir. And secondly, the gland nuts for the replacement cartridges will not seal the oil in the housing like the original equipment one will as they were not designed for it.

Oops, guess I should have said 49 state models... I keep forgetting about that "other" one....:devious: :cross-eye

One thing you ought to check is the cam chain... I'm wondering if your tensioner may have gone bad and allowed the chain to jump on the gear and get the timing so far out it won't run... Just take the valve cover back off and see if it is tight or if it has excessive slack in the chain. Other than what the rest have said, try changing the cap and rotor, perhaps your cap has cracked and is causing the rotor to arc and not feed enough voltage to the plugs. One way to verify you are getting fuel to all the cylinders would be to pull all the plugs, unhook the coil wire, and put your hand over the inlet of the carb while you have someone crank it over a few times, then go see if you smell gas fumes from all the cylinders. Other than that, I'm kinda stumped with the info you've given so far.. maybe with after you try a few of these tricks we can at least start to rule out some things and go on to something else....

Haynes or similar manual should do the trick, but for the absolute truth they might want to see a genuine Factory Manual. The only bad thing about that is the fact that if you have removed any of the other smog equipment they might require you to replace it... FWIW, as fas as I know, no Z's came from the factory with cat's until the ZX's debuted in 79. Only a pre-muffler or resonator was used prior to that on all the Z's.

You might as well learn some of these things the hard way like the rest of us have......:devious: You want us to take all the fun out of working on a car for ya?

VicBrit has all the hard brake lines in their catalog, more than likey MSA can get them also. If you looked up the part numbers on the Microfiche, you might even be able to get them from a dealer as well. I'm fairly sure they are all still available. You could check with Courtesy Nissan and maybe get a discount:ermm:

If you take Datsun and 240Z off it and replace it with a picture of a Z you won't have any trouble. Ebay did to you the same thing CafePress did to our store. They are worried about trademark infringement using the 240Z logo which was trademarked by Nissan and the Datsun name would be a clear violation. They can't stop anyone from using the letter Z or an image of a vehicle. It is kinda odd how it just seem to be certain people who are getting the short end of the stick though, not only by Ebay but by others as well.

First off, you don't want any "extra" room in the housing or your strut cartridge is going to move around and end up seizing. The GC system he has is probably an adjustable coil over set up that requires cutting the strut housings and welding on new lower perches. The 280 housings are longer and larger diameter than the 240, so you will want to use the 240 housing if at all possible. You probably could use the 280 housing with the GC coil overs as they will end up being nearly the exact same lenght after cutting. But, whatever he's talking about having extra room in the housing, he's BS'ing you. How hard is it to do? Scale of 1-10 with 10 being the most difficult, this would be a 9 if you don't have access to the right tools and are not an experienced welder... but then, you could always pay someone to do it....

I knew Bonnie would have a comment on this one.... Glad I don't snore..won't have to worry about having someone talk about me behind my back....

Female vs. Male Prayer I think this sums up the difference between what woman and men want. FEMALE PRAYER Before I lay me down to sleep, I pray for a man, who's not a creep. One who's handsome, smart and strong. One who loves to listen long, One who thinks before he speaks, When he says he'll call, he won't wait weeks. I pray that he is gainfully employed, When I spend his cash, won't be annoyed. Pulls out my chair and opens my door, Massages my back and begs to do more. Oh! Send me a man who'll make love to my mind. Knows what to answer to "How big is my behind?" I pray that this man will love me to no end. And never attempt to hit on my friend. And as I kneel and pray by my bed. I look at the creep you sent me instead. Amen. MALE PRAYER: I pray for a deaf-mute nymphomaniac with huge boobs who owns a liquor store. Amen.

The only thing I could think that would be different would possibly be the advance curve(different plates or springs inside perhaps)... I don't know for sure either... Enrique is right about the point dizzy's... don't think there would be much difference in the electronics, it ought to work.

Oops, kinda stuck my foot in my mouth didn't I mwz?:cross-eye I get an attitude with UPS at times, but they are no different than the Post Office, most of the time they do a good job and then once in a while they screw up. Even packages shipped by Priority Mail get lost once in a while... been there, done that.. luckily the shipper purchased the item on another auction and shipped it to me as a replacement for the one he couldn't track through the PO as he could not produce the right receipt for the shipment...

I never said to pay it Carl.... But a lot of buyers don't read the full description either.. in which case it's caveat emptor. I always read the shipping and insurance policy and won't buy from some who won't at least post their prices...That's an open invitation for someone to take your money. If for nothing other than annoying a seller, e-mail them and ask them what the shipping is going to cost and also ask if they will ship it by another avenue other than the one they have posted in their auction. Ebay is no different than buying a car or finding an "honest" mechanic, if you don't like something, go elsewhere because there will be others selling the same product. If you get taken, the one good thing about Ebay is that you can post your dissatisfaction in the feedback and if others are shopping wisely, then they will know up front what they are getting into.