2ManyZs

I'd go with plain old concrete... It shouldn't be much more expensive if you had a ready-mix company haul it in than to buy it buy the bag like that and hand mix..... Of course in your area that might not be the case.... But, before you put anything on it I would suggest painting the floor after it has cured about a week..... Lowe's, Home Depot have floor paint(Lowe's has a few different manufacturers) and then there is POR-15(probably a lot more expensive) and a few others.... Nuttin worse than having something spill on the concrete and soak in a leave a big ugly stain that won't come off...

Uh huh... but don't forget the mustache bar bushings and the infamous spindle pin bushings....

Only two way switch I know of that it might be would be the electric antenna switch.... don't know why it's where it is though, but if the radio isn't orginal it was probably put there when the radio was changed as they were built into the faceplate of the original radios.... What year is your car? The model makes a lot of difference in which fuse is which..

:stupid::stupid: :stupid: :stupid: Nuff said????? Don't know who made the springs as they are MSA's "Motorsport Springs"..... Now you need to do the rest of the bushings in urethane......:devious:

Zedd Findings can get a few sets of the fender mirrors.... but be ready as the price is rather high... almost 400 for a pair.:disappoin The mirrors are the one thing that is getting very hard to find and very expensive to get... the rest of the stuff is fairly readily available as there are suppliers for the over fenders and even the G-nose...

Modern Motorsports has a conversion kit using 280 stubs. Here's the link to the rear ones.. couldn't seem to find the front ones but if they do the rears they ought to do the fronts as well......Or you could convert it over to the 280Zx front hub by using the lower section of the strut housing and spindle, either way will work.... http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=46

All the 260's had the different taillights that carried over to the 280. I remember this car because of those rather ugly wire wheels...:devious: This one is nice, but it's not in the 14K catagory if you ask me... how many people would pay that for any Z that has a bungee cord holding the battery, especially when it's sitting in a Nissan dealers showroom?

I think I've got a dome lamp and fuse box cover in my parts car, as soon as our monsoon season is over I'll go take a look. Andy Russell, z@datsundude.com has the engine bay lamps for a decent price brand new, but the cargo straps will be a hard one to find... new ones are practically non-existant and used ones are, well, used and faded.....

If I'm not mistaken, this car has been up for auction before and not sold..... Yeah, the carbs are the early carbs. The interior is fairly similar to a 240 with some changes to the dash, especially the heater control panel which is the same as the later 280's, and some other trim changes. This car isn't bad... but it does have a few very obvious faults. First is the bungee cord holding the battery...:stupid: Second is the odd looking vinyl on the tunnel. That's just a couple things I picked up on right away... so there might be more oddities. I'd say this car won't bring much more than 5K, if it goes above that it won't be by much I believe. It's nice, but it isn't as nice as it could be. There are a lot of obvious differences from this and a 240 and just because it was only made for one year doesn't necessarily make it any more valuable than a 240.

With lowering springs and a tall sidewall such as a 70 series it's quite possible to have a rub. Might be better off to go to a 60 or even a 55 or 50 series tire. I've run 225/60's on 7 inch zero offset wheels with no rub with stock and also lowering springs on the street and adjustable coil-overs on the track(much lower than street specs).

There are 3 reasons to put a little oil in the strut housing..... 1. It does to serve as a heat sink in a small way. 2. It prevents the bottom of the strut cartridge rusting fast to the inside of the strut housing as water can and will find it's way into the strut housing over time. 3. It serves to work as a cushion for the strut cartridge inside the housing. Some of the aftermarket cartridges are a bit loose when installed in the strut housing and can move around inside the housing. I have seen a strut cartridge that were an "el-cheapo" replacement that had so much empty space around the body of the cartridge that the bottom of the strut cartridge moved and the piston actually seized in place due to the fact it was wearing a slot in the gland nut. Remember, the Z's were not delivered with sealed strut cartridges.

Yup, the axle flanges are what the driveshaft and half shafts bolt onto on the outside of the diff. What is possibly different is the bolt circle between the 240 driveshaft and half shafts and whatever the vehicle you took the diff from. If they won't bolt up, the only thing you have to do is to swap the flanges off the original diff over to the new one as they should be the exact same except for the flanges. I've been looking around but can't seem to find any definitive answer as to whether or not they are different flanges or if the 240 shafts will bolt right on... Guess the best thing to do is for me to go to the junkyard and find a diff and try it myself one of these days and then we'll have an answer unless someone beats me to it....

The 4x4 diffs are out of the front, as all the Nissan 4x4's used a solid axle in the rear as far as I know. The casting marks on the casing should be 38311-U3000. The Maxima, Z, 810 and the 720 4X4 all used the same casting number on the diff housing which indicates the larger 115mm ring gear. I don't know for certain, but it would seem likely you would have to swap the axle flanges on these, but otherwise it would be a straight bolt in affair. The later 85 and up 4x4's used an R-180 as well, but these will not work as one side of the diff housing was extended so that they could use equal lenght half shafts. BTW, the casting number on the 180 housing with the smaller 110mm ring gear is 38311-78500.

I've got a better question, why do we have to choose?

It all depends on what you are planning on doing to the engine in the way of performance mods... Basically stock, with no internal changes, I'd go with the SU's or the stock FI from a 280. Changing compression ratio, cam and a few other mods like a good ignition system, I'd go with the Mikuni's. FWIW, yes, the stock Bosch L-Jetronic is reliable and would really be smooth and all, but if you plan on any performance mods it is restricted in its modifications you can do. Bigger throttle body and a couple other small mods and that's about it. It's not like the programmable injection systems that are now available, which will cost you at least what you have already invested in the Mikuni's or more than likely even more. With an aftermarket programmable system, you could do most anything you wanted with the engine up to the limit of your wallet. Since you already have the Mikuni's, I think I'd just swap in a little hotter cam and have the head rebuilt, put in a hotter ignition and have at it, it might take a little time to adjust the carbs correctly, but once set, they'll be fine.

You might be better off to find a complete Turbo engine if you really want to do it right and have less headaches with setting up the engine, and it might cost less in the long run. If you run the Turbo on the stock L-28 you are going to be running compression that's just a little higher than the Turbo engines did, which would mean you would have to be especially careful with your ignition, as any amount of detonation could be terminal. If I remember right without looking it up, the Turbo engines ran around a 7.8:1 compression ratio while your L-28 is around 8.3 or so..... The other plus of using the complete Turbo engine would be that you would have the stronger F-54 block.

564 isn't a bad price with shipping... have you tried shox.com? The adjustable coil-overs will cost you about double that, plus require a lot of welding and labor to install, so this would be the best solution if you don't plan on making any permanent modifications... Adjustable coil-overs are only really necessary when you are trying to fit wheels with a lot of backspacing and need the room for the wheel and tire to clear by using a smaller diamater spring, or going to be doing some more serious racing.

Yeah, if you are lucky it is only held on by double sided adhesive tape, if you are unlucky.... it might be pop riveted on.. Take a hair dryer and warm one end of it and see if you can pry it off with a putty knife. If you are concerned about saving the paint, try using a plastic spatula or something similar to avoid gouging the paint. If it's riveted on, you should be able to remove the rubber part of the rub strip and then drill out the rivets that are holding on the moulding. Of course, then you've got to weld up the holes...:disappoin

I'd say they need to call it the 350ZX, cuz the X could stand for Ex-Lax, as in looks like sh..

I believe they were made standard somewhere in the 72 model year. My 73 had the front mounts but no bar, but the one 72 I have here has an aftermarket rear mounting bar on it. Don't know about the other one in the backyard and it's too wet to go crawling under it to see... The front mounting bars are the ones the factory put on, the rear ones are the aftermarket supplied bars. Nissan Comp had both depending on whether your car had the front mounts or not if I remember right.... No sense in having two... two small ones aren't going to act any different than one... it's the size of the bar that matters. Guess we could do a little detective work with Vin numbers and see about when the front mounts were put on the chassis, as the production changes on zhome doesn't say anything about the rear sway bar.

It could be a combination of a few things... tire choice, weak strut cartridges, soft springs, bad bushings.... The bounce test is good for checking the compression of the strut, not the rebound... it is not a fail-safe test as your struts may seem OK, but are still weakened by normal wear and tear. I'd start out by replacing the strut cartridges, then the strut bushings. Take it one step at a time and you'll find the problem. I would suggest that if you are going to replace the strut cartridges, you might as well go all the way and do the bushings while it apart, save you time and aggravation later. If the problem still exists after you change the strut cartridges and bushings, it could be your tire choice, or maybe even the need for a different sway bar on the rear (if you have one now that is).

Well, I've got a set of the MSA carpets.... but they are still in the box waiting for the car to be finished, been waiting for 4 years to have a car to put them in.....:stupid: Look good in the box..... Don't forget, you can also purchase carpet from Too Intense as well, I believe Kmack bought one of Troy's carpet kits so you could ask him how well it fit and how he likes it..... Remeber guys, you can get a 10% discount if you buy from Too Intense, and hopefully he will continue to advertise and help support our site.:classic:

Must be a Geocities thing... cuz now it's back up again....:stupid:

Bryan Little was the one who did it all if I'm not mistaken... Geez, it was just last week I was reading some info on there... hope it isn't lost forever....:disappoin There are link to that site on the Datsun Garage site.. maybe he would be able to tell you how to contact him and perhaps he'd let us host it for him?