2ManyZs

Here's the right link.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2415000037&category=42612

The best thing to do would be to convert the struts to a 2 1/2 inch adjustable coil-over set-up. That way, you can adjust the ride height to compensate for any possible tire rub on the fender lip and you'll gain quite a bit of space to fit the wheels without hitting the spring perch or spring. Then if you still have a problem, you can use the thinnest spacer required for more clearance. The spacers have been debated here quite a bit, the best thing I can say is never use any thicker spacer than is absolutely necessary, the thinner the better. It's either that or sell the wheels and find a set of 16 inch wheels with the correct backspacing...

Well, yes, anything can be chromed... but why chrome something that is somewhat flexible as chrome plating is not and will only crack and peel in time...... As far as what color to paint a fiberglass bumper... that's a matter of opinion. Body color, grey, or a satin black would all look pretty good with your color. A lot depends on the body color... in your case, I think the taillight panel grey or satin black would look best but that's just my opinion.....

If the floor pans are in good shape other than the one spot that is rusted out, you might also consider patching the spot on the floor, and replacing only the under floor rail which you can get from Zedd Findings. Seriously though, the best thing to do is to get under there and find out what is or is not hiding under the undercoating before you go any further... Looks to be quite a good coating of undercoat on the car, so you may or may not have more rust than you think you have.

If you are talking about the diamond stitched vinyl, the best place to get it would probably be http://www.classicdatsun.com/ They can also provide the replacement plastic interior panels as well.

Keyword to using a hammer was "tapping"..... I've done it many times with no trouble... just tap it lightly around the perimeter and let it seat a little at a time...

Hardest part about replacing a rear main seal is getting the old one out...... You can use a screwdriver driven into the thickest part of the seal and pry it out, or you might need a crows foot, but it will come out one way or t'other.... When you put the new one in, put a little oil on your finger and coat the inner lip and outside of the seal so it will slip into place a little easier. If you don't have a seal driver big enough, just slowly tap it into place with a hammer, going around the outside edge evenly or use a block of wood, just make sure it goes in fairly evenly....

Before you end up spending money over and over on alignments, you need to find out what is wrong with the suspension and steering in the first place and replace any worn out parts. First on the list is wheel bearings, then tie rod ends, ball joints, steering rack bushings and steering coupler. After you have checked and/or replaced these items you can then get the alignment done and it more than likely cure 95% or more of your problems. The last thing to do is have it aligned and replace the worn out tires. If you are wearing out the inside edge of the tire it sounds like it is toed out. I always set my Z's to 0 to 1 1/8 toe out but no more than that.

Andy doesn't have his site up yet... last time I talked with him he was working on getting his real estate license and was planning on the parts business as a hobby or side job part time. Not sure if he's going to finish his web-site or not to tell the truth. He does have the front "euro" steel bumper and the end pieces for the rear. You'll have to get the center piece of the rear from Zedd Findings in Canada as they aren't available in the US unless they get them through Charlie or have other contacts in Canada. As far as chroming fiberglass.. not sure that can even be done. Anyone who wants Andy's price list can PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send you a copy, or e-mail him direct and get it from him.

Hey Enrique.. he wouldn't have that problem with no wheels if he hadn't given away his "Love Bug" huh? 2350 is a fair price to pay for a chassis.. cuz the first thing that would come off would be the body and start all over....:devious:

You might be ahead to get as much as possible of it... never know when you might need a gauge, wiring harness section... or someone else might be willing to pay you for one.:devious: Take an extra day maybe... but if you have a place to put it, I'd take everything off it I could... especially since parts are harder to come by "Down Under".......

You could try Andy Russell, e-mail him at z@datsundude.com His price on the new front bumper is one of the best, under 300... as for the rubber strips, overrider and bumper guards you'll have to contact him..

From where you are at right now, the easiest thing to do is to unbolt the driveshaft at the flange on the backside of the hub as it will let the control arm swing down even further and be a lot easier than trying to stand on the brake drum to extend the driveshaft at the slip joint. Then go inside and just loosen the nut in the middle that is on the top of the strut cartridge, don't take it all the way off, just loosen it. Then remove the 3 nuts that are holding the top hat of the strut to the mount in the body, then let the whole thing just swing down when you remove the last of the 3 nuts(be careful of your shins as it will drop quickly) and then you can take off the top hat by removing the center nut after you compress the spring. You shouldn't have to compress the spring just to drop the strut housing, but if you want to, you can just put two clamps on as well as you can and compress it as much as possible. The only time you want to mess with the spindle is if you are going to be replacing the spindle pin bushings.. and you'll probably find this to be a nasty, rotten job.. there are numerous threads about it if you search for them.

The front and rear struts can be done while still on the car, however, not without unbolting the T/C rod and sway bar on the front and the sway bar on the back and unhooking the brake lines. You'll need to put a foot on the top of the brake rotor or on the hub to "persuade" it to go low enough for the top of the strut to clear the strut tower lip at the top. If you don't have access to a coil spring compressor, you can use one of my cheap tricks. Use 3 large (2 1/2 inch is what I use) stainless steel hose clamps, take them apart and thread them around 3 coils of the spring and tighten them with a socket on the 5/16 head of the clamp. They will hold if you use 3 of the best you can find. Compress the spring and get it off and then relaese the pressure as soon as possible. If you overtighten the clamps, throw them away and get another one, if you strip out the slots in the clamp overtightening them, they can and will let loose and you'll have a dangerous situation on your hands... or on your chin.... The reason I like using the clamps instead of the compressors is this, 9 times out of 10, the clamps try to turn as you tighten them, you run one down, then another and by that time, the first one is trying to turn on the coil. The hose clamps never do that... I've had more springs jump out of compressors more than once, one time it caught me in the chest.... hose clamps never have let me down yet.... Just be sure to use the heaviest duty clamps you can find and you should have no trouble.

Looks to me like someone was practicing their "body work" so they could sell a kit car or re-body kit...Like the kits you can buy to make a Fiero look like a Ferrari... yeah right..... I do kinda like the dash, but that's it.......

Actually a McPherson strut suspension is technically a coil-over shock suspension. What we are referring to when we talk about coil-overs are actually smaller diameter coil springs with an adjustable perch that replaces the stock non-adjustable spring and perch. The Illumina's are an adjustable strut cartridge (or technically a shock absorber), not coil-overs per se.... Many US cars use a coil spring that is sandwiched between either two control arms or one control arm and a frame mount, yet you can change them to a coil-over that is bought as a unit that replaces the coil spring and the stand alone shock absorber.

Here in VA we call an "adjustable spanner" a "West Virginia socket set"....... Only thing they are good for is square heads on drain plugs and dire emergencies...... For the line connection on the slave cylinder, if 17mm is too big and 5/8 is too small, use an 11/16. I've had hoses that have had different sized ends on them, even when using the aftermarket steel braided hoses... It's gotta be one of the three.... BTW, I just went out and checked all the steel braided hoses on the two cars and the ones in the drawers... all are 11/16.

If the 78 still has an N-47 head and the 76 has the N-42 the exhaust ports are different which means that the exhaust manifolds aren't interchangeable. Every thing else should bolt on with no troubles though.... N-47 had a round port exhaust and the N-42 heads have square ports....

And don't forget, the 77-78 280's also used R-180's.... The only rear in that group that might possibly have an LSD would be the 200sx after 1987, but that is up for debate.

Ok, here's a list of what came in what...... 3.36 R-180: 240-260Z manual trans R-200: 280zx 6/78-7/79 280zx auto's and 280ZX Turbo's 3.54 R-180: 240-280ZX auto's Maxima sedan, manual trans R-200: 280Z manual, 280zx Turbo 3.700 R-180: 810 sedan R-200: 280ZX manual 6/78-6/79, 300zx non-turbo and Turbo 3.90 R-180: 720 4x4 1/83-6/83 R-200: 280ZX n/turbo 80-83 200SX Turbo 84, 200SX V-6 4.11 R-180: 720 4x4 6/83-12/85 R-200: 200SX Trubo 85-86, 200SX n/t 84-88 4.37 R-180: 720 4x4 6/79-12/82 R-200: n/a 4.62 R-180: 720 4x4 Long bed 6/79-6/80 R-200: n/a Now all ya got to do is find them in a junkyard.....:cross-eye

Egad, how did I forget Meatloaf?:stupid: In the days before Cd's I had to buy a new cassette about every 8 months as I'd wear that one out....... Guess my favorite "driving" related songs would have to be: Seger- Turn the Page Hootie and the Blowfish- "Long Valley Road" Seger- Mainstreet

Hmm, thought so Enrique... The biggest giveaway was the C-pillar vents...hard to change them unless the whole rear quarters are changed to repair damage...well, then again, someone could just fill them with Bondo and use the early emblems I guess... This looks like one of those crossover cars that were built with left-over parts from the early cars and parts from the later cars. Vin number 23407 would put it as a 2/71 build date... which is about right for the changeover from "series 1" to "series 2" according to all the previous posts on the subject.

I'm with Enrique on his choices, plus 38 Special, Bob Seger, ZZ Top, REO, Bryan Adams, Eagles, and a few more I can hardly remember..... Ah, the "good old days"... biggest worry was how to pool enough money to buy a six-pack and put enough gas in the tank to cruise half the night....

Lot's of things pointed out already seem to indicate this is one of the "cross-over" cars.... Probably a mid to late 71 build date... The VIN number would tell it all. Mine is an 11/70 build date titled as a 71 and it has the hatch vents... so this one is more than likely a little later than mine... fairly sure it's not a 70 as stated. Even if it had a later build date in 70, it more than likely would have been titled as a 71 as it wouldn't have reached the US until 71 anyways...