2ManyZs

Doesn't look too bad.... Couple things that would bother me though... One is the paint job, seems it was either a redo or orange car originally that had a rather sloppy re-paint in blue. Notice the orange showing in the engine pic along the edge of the fender and cowl. Engine compartment looks kinda grungy with what almost looks like a brushed on black paint job.... A decent paint job with any body repairs is going to be a major expense. South Florida might be nice to winter in, but cars do rust there due to the salt air and humidity as well. I'd have to look closely at the frame and underside before I could pass judgement on the car. If the price stays under ~5K or so, it would be a good deal... but the bid is almost 4K now and reserve hasn't been met.

Hope the seller doesn't read this, but a good E-31 is worth a hundred.... if you can get the motor and trans for less than 250 you'd be getting a hell of a deal IMO....

They should be in SoCalZ's gallery... they just got booted off the main page due to new uploads.... Then again, I don't see them anywhere... not even in the 2003 MSA show pics.....:disappoin

Lock set would work, but the iginition switch might require some re-wiring... not sure if it will work in all the cars as there were quite a few changes in wiring and most importantly the connectors over the years.

True, you got me there, but at least it's still recognizable as a Z.. better than some of the "things" we've seen pics poosted off...:sick:

A lot depends on which type of gasket you used.... if you used a cork and rubber gasket, you will find it will continue to compress and the bolts can loosen. That's why I would always suggest using a plain rubber gasket. You have to be very careful when using a cork and rubber as they will always try to squeeze out under the flange and cause a leak. Most gasket kits have plain rubber oil pan gaskets, but every once in a while you still come across the cork and rubber... same thing applies to the cam cover. You could always use some of the low strength Lock-Tite on the bolts, I think it's the blue... can't remember which color is which. That way, if you do have to re-tighten or torque, they will not be difficult to break loose so you can re-tighten them.

Yup, that's the Kaminari body kit... still looks like crap even after all these years....:devious: Why did they have to do that to a 71? Couldn't they have done it to a 280?:stupid: At least there are more 280's to go around than 71's.....:disappoin

Yup guys and girls, I goofed when I made up the poll....:stupid: Guess Mike can fix it to what I had intended....

Just wondering how many of us belong to Z car forums other than 240z.org/classiczcars.com

Here's the link so you can download the L engine calculator... should give you all the info you want.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292&highlight=L+engine+calculator

That's one of the problems George, the club didn't have to supply the products, cafepress was supplying the products and having our logo's put on them..... Mike is selling the Microfiche CD on Ebay, but right now that's the only product we have....

CafePress, who were adminstering our store suddenly shut it down without notice... According to Mike, they were worried about trademark infringement because our logo uses the letter Z.... Mike has tried to contact them and get it straightened out, but keeps getting the run-around from various people that have a hard time speaking "Engrish"... Mike can give more specific details as my memory sometimes fails me.....

If it really has no rust and the original paint is in decent or good condition, I'd say his asking price is pretty close to what the car is worth.... It's the little things that would add up to detract from value, but from the pics, it looks like it is in excellent condition. I'd say the car is worth 10k and up, it just depends on the few things that might be missing or needing attention. Hard to tell with the pics, but usually a car looks better than what it does in pics unless someone is trying to hide something..

I only have one 4 (new) that I'm going to need... the rest that I have are stock 2 rows that need repair or re-core... I think if you go over to www.hybridz.org you should find what you need to know in the way of GM radiators that will work. I know they use them with the GM V-8 swaps... Or then there's always the aluminum GM replacement radiators from Summit Racing or Jeg's that should work. Took a minute to find it but here's the link to the thread you ought to read...I think you'll find what you need there... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6825

Rain-X will work, but it's still nice to have a working wiper motor... I'm checking my "inventory" to see if I have one....

I got one of the mesh grills from www.nismoparts.com just a few months ago.... Not sure if they still have them or not. http://www.nismoparts.com/cart/?pn=62300-N3000&submit=Search

Well, OK, but... They do make these spacers in custom thinknesses if you are using non-Honda spec offset wheels. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_faq.php?PHPSESSID=1b009780367981439bff71e97991ae24 I think the problem would be that to do the job correctly re-drilling the hubs, you would need to get 280 hubs and stub axles to be able to have enough material to re-drill 4 new holes in the flange in the correct spacing you need. If you were to use the 240 hubs, they would need to weld and re-drill the existing stud mounting holes, which would end up being as strong as they would need to be, but it would cost you quite a bit in labor and machine costs. Try contacting Modern Motorsports and see what they can come up with, or ask them if they could do your hubs and what their opinion would be... I'm not a machinist, but, if you look at the differences between the 240 and 280 hubs, perhaps you'll understand what I'm trying to explain. The 280 hub flange is the same thickness and is round, while the 240 hub flange has 4 "ears" that have raised pads that the wheel mounts against.

Seems like I read somewhere that the N-47 even with the liners flowed better than most of the rest... I still believe in the E-31.... With L-28 valves of course..

Back many years ago when I was known to "partake" on a regular basis... Best I ever had was called Molson Brador... 6.2% Malt Liquor, first one tasted so-so, second one tasted goooood, third one..... who pulled the damn chair out from under my butt?:devious: Stuff had a kick like Jack Black..... Shame, can't buy it in the US.... Worst ones were Pabst Blue Ribbon (PBR), Genessee Cream Ale(:sick: ), Rolling Rock and anything in a clear bottle..made me feel like I was drinking from a specimen bottle.... :cross-eye

Why bother when you can just buy these adapters? It would cost more than these cost to have your hubs re-drilled.... http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6&PHPSESSID=1b009780367981439bff71e97991ae24

I believe you are thinking of Rebello Racing? http://www.rebelloracing.com/

I drive a big old 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup, have 4 Z's and I am a truck driver with over 2 million accident free miles... wonder what that makes me?

Only sealant I have ever used on headgaskets is the Permatex Copper aerosol, can't remember its exact name.... It's not really needed, but it shouldn't hurt anything if you do use it......

I guess I have to agree more with TKR on this one... Might as well say 98.9% of the people on the road.....there might be 1.1% that don't have a serious need for a rectal-cranial inversion..:cross-eye Of course, it all depends on what area you are in as well, get near a major city and the percentage of idiots goes up to about 99.5%:mad: :stupid:

Inf, I also have a Sears 2 ton floor jack, and yes, you have to be careful when lowering the car as it does release kinda quick at times if you aren't careful. Drunkenmaster, the frame rail you used is just forward of where mine are, either one is OK. Actually the pads on my jackstands are a bit wide, so I used the rail that connects to the ones you have yours under. George, I've got one set of stands like yours. But I don't use them much anymore since I finally broke down and bought a better set. I got these from Northern Tool, I think they are 3 ton. The main reason I got this set is because of the height. To everyone, yes, mine is high, but is very stable. I can climb into the car with no trouble. I can also lift the front of the car off the jackstands as I still have the hatch on it and it makes the front a bit light compared to the rear. With the hatch off, I'd say it would be fairly even in weight front to back. I used the floor jack to get it as high as possible, then used my engine hoist to "cheat" a bit. I jacked up one end and then the other to get it as high as it is....:devious: