2ManyZs

I know I had a set and know where another set is right now...I know I bought mine from Impact Parts many, many years ago. Only names that pop into my head are Mulholland and Interpart.. Seems like they were 1 to 1 1/2 inches lower and about 10-15% stiffer like most today...

Spray it with a little WD-40 or PB Blaster first, then put the nut back on it and give it a couple whacks with a hammer if you don't have a brass drift or a punch that will fit the end of it without ruining the threads. It should pop loose as it is just a tapered pin put in from the top. If you want a little more advice, you will find this to be a much easier job if you were to remove the whole strut and control arm assembly and work on it on a workbench, rather than trying to do it while it is still on the car. Before you try to remove the spindle pin, you ought to soak it with penetrating fluid for a day on both ends and through the locking pin hole. If you have trouble, use the search function here as there are many, many threads on this job and quite a few options for removing the spindle pin.

They will interchange just fine, only have your recline latch on the wrong side and the slider will be a bit odd to handle..... I did it once on a car I had years ago, took a bit of getting used to when I wanted to move the seat or re-adjust the backrest....

ATF in the crankcase is an even worse idea than putting it in the gas tank. Not only are you contaminating your new engine oil with ATF after you drain it, you are running the engine with an oil that is not of the proper viscosity in the first place. In the old days of poured babbit bearing and loose tolerances in the bearings, you might be able to get away with this, but any engine built in the last 40 years won't last long doing this. Too much heat buildup in the bearings even running it for 30 minutes like this.... Not only that, but ATF will not stick to the cylinder walls to lubricate the rings. I suggest you not do this anymore.:cross-eye There are oil additives you can use that will do the same thing as what you are trying to do and it can be left in the crankcase with the new engine oil.

I more than likely have it in a box somewhere... you got any idea what year it was? I hate to look through all of them going back to 89..:cross-eye I've got all the SportsCar and Straightpipes back to 89 around here somewhere..... I just threw away about 10-15 years worth of old Road&Track, Hot Rod, SportsCar Illustrated, etc...... Guess I should have put them up on Ebay and got some of my money back....:disappoin

Just to see how many of us are what could be considered "gear-heads" or "motor heads" how about if each of us lists the automotive magazines we either subscribe to, or buy regularly on the newstand? This is auto related only so some of you can forget those "other" magazines... just because they have a section for autos doesn't count... My list goes something like this... 1. SportZ and previous to that ZCar Magazine 2. SCCA SportsCar magazine (members receive this with their membership in the SCCA) since 1989 3. Grassroots Motorsports 4. Mopar Muscle 5. Mopar Collectors Guide 6. The Straightpipe... Washington DC Region SCCA newsletter

All those questions... one simple answer... If the car has been sitting for a long period of time, and has damage due to snow(?). I would have a serious look at the underside of the car before you decide to do anything even remotely like worrying how to fix it. The mechanicals are fairly easy to fix, and with all the heads we have hear to put our collective minds together we can figure out most anything.... except how to fix a chassis that has a serious rust problem. If the rust is severe, which it sounds like it could be given the damage to the roof, which says the car has been outside in the weather and neglected, then it may not be worth the time or energy to even consider getting it running again. If you do a search here on the site for rust issues, you will get a clear idea on what to look for, then take an afternoon to look over the car carefully... then decide if it is something that is worth fixing.

I agree, this has gone beyond the limit by quite a bit. It's not our place to have anything to do with this person as they aren't a member here... If they were and they did something like this to one of our members they would be blocked from the site. This is something best left to the administrators of zcar.com and the person involved and I caution anyone from doing anything to "get even" with this person.

I kinda figured you would already have those numbers since they were a factory issued part. I guess the big question now is, whether the springs they are selling now as the "Euro" springs are actually Nissan parts or aftermarket supplied parts with the same name..... Somewhere around here I have a book that gives the stock spring rates, and if I remember right, the Stage 1's are nearly the same as the stock springs... they were more of a lowering spring than a stiffer spring rate. I'll look around here and see if I can dig that up while you snooze....

I've got the video and posted a review on it here a while back. It is fairly obvious it concentrates on US models, but then, it was filmed in the US so what can you expect? I'd say a UK film crew would do the same, concentrating on the UK cars and not the rest of the worlds.... Yes, it does leave a lot to be desired as far as the history of the car, but, you have to think they were trying to cram the history of Nissan into an hour long program and cover the years from 1945 to the early 70's and even 80's.... It's not as good as a book, but what movie is ever as good as the book? And it isn't like there are that many others to compete with it either...:disappoin I've watched a lot of the Automobiles series of shows on the History Channel, and they are all pretty much the same, so at least they didn't short change the Z anymore than any other car they have spotlighted in a show.

Here's the list out of my old "How to Hot Rod" book which has most of the Nissan Competition parts available way back when.... Not sure if the ones that Marty has are the same part numbers or not, but you can get an indea of what was available here from the Competition Department in the past. "European springs (Stage 1) 54010-E4107 RF spring 100lbs 54010-E4106 LF spring 100lbs 54020-E4201 Rear springs 112lbs "European springs (Stage 2) 54010-E8101 RF spring 122lbs 54010-E8100 LF spring 122lbs 54020-E8100 Rear springs 140lbs

If it's an inch or less it shouldn't be a problem as far as camber is concerned. Actually the car will benefit from a slight increase in negative camber from stock. FWIW, on my first Z I had a set of springs from Impact Parts(don't remember the manufacturer, probably not even in business now) that lowered the car between 1 and 1 1/2 inches with no increased wear in the tires at all. It did give me a bit more negative camber, but probably no more than 1 degree. Will they be stiffer? Yes, but if they are less than a 15% increase in spring rates, it shouldn't be too harsh on the street.. But then again, a lot of times it depends on how bad the roads are in your area... Chicago area never was known for smooth roads was it Marty? Now a 25% increase in spring rates would probably be a bit harsh on all but the smoothest roads....

Reminds me of something Gallagher said one time.. "It's a damn shame you can't turn up the intelligence on television, you have a brightness knob on the TV that never has worked right"...

Pull the side marker lights off the body and you will find they have bullet connectors covered in a rubber or plastic. More than likely one of these has gotten full of moisture. Same procedure as the headlight circuit, check all the connections, and clean them and make sure they are sealed as the side marker connections are in an open area behind the fenders and quarters where they are susceptible to water infiltration.

Almost everyday of the week there is some type of "reality" show on TV.... not that they really show anything that even closely resembles reality in anyones lives or anything that will or might happen in the majority of our lives... Now, we have a new one soon to be released on us. Hosted by none other than the biggest joke in the last 10 years, a brunette "Miss Piggy" who never learned how to have her clothes dry-cleaned. We didn't want to see her homely mug on the news for weeks and months on end, and now some moron is going to give her a show to host on TV? Are these network "executives" using the same kinds of drugs that the "designers" of the new autos on the market are using? I guess "little" miss Monica couldn't get a Playboy spread since she sure as hell isn't centerfold material like Paula Jones.... Guess it's time to start working on the car at night or go to Wal-mart and buy the next series of MASH videos...

I take it the melted ones were for the headlights? Usually these are the first ones to go... Best bet is to thoroughly check out all the wiring to the headlights, which mean pulling apart, checking, cleaning of all the connectors. Usually the ones in the front, in frontof or under the radiator support get water and corrosion inside them, which causes the headlight circuit to build up heat in the fuse block due to the increased resistence caused by the corrosion. Yes, clean and check the solder joints under the "new" fuse block, and clean the fuse clips with emery paper as well....

It would probably end up being so short you'd have the frame almost on the ground........ You could try it, but since the 280 strut housing is approx. 1-1/2 inches longer then the 240 strut, and you then have lowering springs which probably cut another inch or so on top of that..... I think you'd end up with at least 2 1/2 to 3 inches of lowering which would probably be a bit too much on a street car. Unless you decided on using adjustable coil-overs that is... then it might work out fine...

Wel.... here's three on Ebay that look pretty good, and the prices are still quite reasonable even if you had to pay shipping to the East Coast.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2410491936&category=6187 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2411193283&category=6187 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2411198597&category=6187

Go with the 240sx for the time being.... You'll end up saving yourself a lot of money in the long run. Male+sports cars= high insurance till you are 25 now matter where you live anymore. I had my first 240 when I was 20, and even back in 82 it cost over 700 a year to insure, and that was with a perfect driving record.... Today it would probably be double or triple that amount. Being fair, if you can afford to buy a 240Z after you buy a 240sx to drive, and fix it little by little over the course of the next 3 or 4 years you would be well on your way to having a decent job, slightly lower insurance premiums (if you can stay out of trouble with the 240sx that is) and when the 240Z is finished, then take out an insurance policy from one of the specialty insurance carriers such as Haggerty's and use it on a limited basis.

It's in my post at the bottom of the post.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1957

See no reason you can't take it off, but if blocking it off doesn't solve the idle problem.. hmmmmm:ermm:

I think his username says it all....:devious:

Yup, it is an emmissions thing. It supplies air to the maniflod when coasting to compensate for manifold vacuum changes.... On a 280, there is a wire that runs to the speedo that has a diode of some type that controls the idle. It registers the speed when coming to a stop (at a light for example) and will cause the idle to not drop to a full idle if it is bad. My 75 did that once, when coming to a stop the idle would not drop to idle for a mintue (sometimes not at all), all I had to do was change to a different speedo.... Since you say the wire was connected to the BCDD, all I can think of is it may be supplying too much air to the intake and thereby messing up the idle by supplying extra vaccum to the intake when it shouldn't (?) Best guess? Put the 280 speedo in and see what happens as the 240 speedo has no way of controlling it...