2ManyZs

You can use high-heat anti-sieze.. But, there are engine builders who will swear that anti-sieze will do the same thing and others that will tell you that the anti-sieze is not good when used on an engine where you have steel, cast iron, aluminum in contact with one another as well... The best thing I can say is use a little anti-sieze on the threads only, and use a little oil under the head of the bolt for lubrication when it comes in contact with the head, so you get a true torque reading. I'd prefer not having any anti-sieze not getting into the oil if at all possible. Guess it all boils down to personal preferrence.

What were you doing Dan? Cuddling that engine? You sure do make a mess of yourself when you work....

Or you can use this to get an estimate.... http://www.fedex.com/ratefinder/home?cc=US&language=en

The Microfiche doesn't seem to be too helpful either as I can't find a relay that says it is a fuel pump relay. The only one I found is one on the passengers side kick panel under the dash that is listed as: relay, pump :stupid: If it is the one I think it is, it will be mounted on the lowest part of the relay panel, which is a two part panel. This relay is rectangular and is mounted so the tabs are sandwiched between the panels. This one should be mounted close to the door opening so it shouldn't be too hard to find if it is the right one.... Just about under the floor vent pull....(?)

Clean them with a wire brush by hand, or on a drill or bench grinder, whichever you have. When you are ready to install them, put a little engine oil on the threads before you put them in the block to keep the bolts from seizing, but the biggest advantage you will get is a more accurate torque setting with them if they are lubricated.

The bolts are all the same in the L series and the torque specs are the same for all non-turbo engines. The Turbos' had a different head bolt which could be torqued about 10% more than stock, and you can use these in any of the L series engines as well. They are about 60 bucks for a set if you wanted them.

If you need the heater hoses and water control valve, that's a no-biggie.... I know where you can get that all for under 100 bucks.... Motor sounds OK, as long as it's in tune and has been kept that way it sounds good... although, I'd have gone with an L-28 bottom end and started with a bigger displacement from the start.

Only way you can find a cars true color is to look on the firewall under the dash or someplace that is usually not painted when most people change the color. There are no records of VIN numbers, with color, options etc.. like you can research for a lot of US made cars, unfortunately.:disappoin Shame Nissan never put a tag on the car somewhere that had all the pertinent info that could be de-coded to find a cars original condition as it came from the factory.

If it's just a heater core missing, MSA has them for about 150 new in their latest catalog.

I never got too attached to any of my parents dogs (Pekingese, no wonder....) but I sometimes wonder if when the day comes I lose this one, if I will have another after her or not. There's no way I could ever luck out and get one that is anything like her..... She turned 4 on December 30th, so hopefully she'll be here to keep us company for a few years to come... Sorry to hear about your loss, I guess only "true" pet owners can understand the empty feeling.

I love it even thought it's not real leather, but "imitation leather" (naugahide).....For under 150 bucks I can't complain. It's got a lot of padding and fits my hands perfectly... even better than the wheel I had in the race car.

Here's a pic of my "cheapo" Grant wheel... And don't ask me where the horn button came from cuz I can't remember....:stupid: But now that i think about it, I think it came with the wheel when I got it from MSA years ago.... They don't have this one in their new catalog, but the 50-3116 "Autocross" is nearly the same thing...

Big round thing under the dash? You mean outside water got into the heater box and into the fan?:cross-eye One of the places it could have came in is around the heater hoses where they come through the firewall, have you checked the grommets? That's about the only way I can think water form outside could get into the heater box. There should be a runner plug under the ash try in the tunnel, it's there to drain water out, so if it's in bad shape it could be letting water in.... Never had one get water under there before. You might also want to check your windshield wiper arm grommets, as that could also be part of the water getting in behind the dash.

Hmm, wouldn't ya know the manual I've got has diagrams for 75-77... Having some troubles trying to scan them so they are legible too...:stupid: I'll figure it out sooner or later...:cross-eye

I could try to scan one out of an old Haynes manual, but what year do you/they need?

I don't know about Accords or Hondas much in general, but i do know a lot of models of VW's came with Recaro's... GTI's and such.. you could probably find a number of them sitting in junkyards somewhere...

Ok, thanks Alan. I knew a car of that caliber and with a value like that it wouldn't have just disappeared. Yeah, it's got the cross-flow head in the article, looked pretty odd when I first saw it. Back in 94 or 95 I didn't know that head even existed.... Glad it's somewhere safe and sound and being taken care of. I don't know if the guy will ship overseas, but here's a copy of the Premier issue of ZCar magazine on Ebay right now that has the article. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2241&item=3511644023

Not sure, but according to the article it sounds like it might have been Geoff Jackson's personal car perhaps? It's a 71, with a beautiful translucent red paint job done to the "nth" degree. Not only that, but a 10K stereo, a white leather interior, a 255hp L-28..... It was written up in the article as perhaps the most expensive Z in the world, being valued at 70K.:cross-eye I'm just curious if the car is still currently in his possesion or if it is still being street driven or if it has ended up in someone's collection. Here's a pic I scanned out of the old magazine...only wish my scanner was big enough to get the centerfold pic...

I like all of the ones that don't have the wood & leather George.... Call it personal preference but I never liked a wheel with all those seams.... Fighter, Club4, Race then Champion would be my choices in descending order... I've got a Grant race wheel in mine and love it as it has a thick rim and looks quite similar to the Race wheel in the pics, except mine has black spokes.

www.IOPortRacing.com www.pegasusautoracing.com Those are the two I can think of without dragging out old magazines for the classified ads....Actually I think Pegasus is dealer for IOPort.... Unless you want to step up to the big leagues and get a video system? www.seawood.com/rcs/bugoff.htm http//www.Racecam.com

Try some Berkebile 2+2 Instant Gum Cutter.... it's in a red,white and blue aerosol can and it works darn good on carbs. Never tried it yet on carbon build-up in the head but it does work on build-up in carbs so it might do fairly well.....Be careful though, it will take off paint as well so be aware of where you are pointing it...:cross-eye

See his original thread for a description... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6566

Whoa Mike... I'm not that old ya know...:cross-eye I've been messing with them for just a little over 20 years... I'm going to put my 2 cents in on the subject of the car. First, it is a low mileage car that has been stored away and pretty much neglected for a long period of time. Interior looks damn good, but the car still has issues that need to be addressed before it could be even driven out of the storage unit. Second, the Z market isn't to the point of the US muscle cars of that time period, which is good for those of us who might be in the market to buy a car. We just recently saw a genuine Z Store factory restored car sell for just a bit over 17K on Ebay, which would indicate that it better be almost a 100% perfect car to bring over 12 or 13 thousand, or have a very desirable history, such as being owned by someone we all in high regard in the history of the Z car. Third, it's a 73, which makes it a bit less desirable than a 70 or early 71. More desirable than a 74 and up car, but if it were an early model, then it would be a different story altogether. It doesn't seem that the car needs a whole lot of work, although what it does need could end up being fairly costly in the long run. I guess my question is this. Why would someone store it away for that long a period of time and not bring it out and fix what it needs to be road worthy? If the owner were to replace the weatherstripping, belts, hoses, and verify the mechanical condition of the car and perhaps have the paint buffed out, then the asking price would be pretty attainable in my opinion. It seems odd that someone would store a car for that time period and hope to sell it in the condition it is in now, when they could get more for it just by getting the car road worthy and perhaps polishing it up a bit. If this car were taken somewhere, for a grand or so in parts he/she could probably ask and receive 13K or more with no problem. But unfortunately as it sits, it's going to be tough to get the asking price.

This may not be on the subject, but whatever happened to the car that Fourways restored and was the subject of an article in the old Z Car magazine Premier issue in 94? Paul, car looks great, and at least it's in good company when parked... I have to agree with Alan, it sure looks odd seeing one without both rear quarters, kinda make you realize why these cars have been attacked by the rust monsters so badly... I've had Z's for 20 years and have yet to win the Lotto so I could drive a Ferrari.....:disappoin

There's only one way to get it off George, you have to pull the whole hub/rotor assembly to get to the 4 Phillips head screws that mount it. Once the hub is off, use an impact driver or a good set of Vice-Grips to break the screws loose, they usually are rusted and very difficult to remove without stripping the heads.... When you put it back on, you can always replace the screws with hex head bolts.