2ManyZs

If you check our advertiser, Too Intense Restorations, you will find new "euro" taillights and front lenses... Doubt if you will find too many people willing to part with used ones..:disappoin When you see the price of new ones, you will understand why.:cross-eye

Bad enough all the damage, and it just had to leave a "calling card" too....:sick:

If the right side rail is rusted so badly that it separated, you've got a ton of problems. If it has rusted to that extent, you better check the inner fender and firewall area as well. You should be able to buy new frame rails to replace the rusted one, but you'll end up having to patch the T/C rod mount back in if the plate that holds it on the inside of the rail is rusted and compromised. If one rail is that bad, you might as well go ahead and replace both frame rails. It's not going to be cheap, there's quite a bit of labor involved if you have someone else do it for you.:disappoin

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

Any hood up to 78 fits, the 77-78 have the vents, that's the only difference.

You just need the metal ashtray that sits inside the console? Heck, I've got a few.. If you wanted to pay shipping from the US you can have it for the shipping costs, probably be cheaper to find one a wee bit closer though...:cross-eye

Here's the pic... The top pic shows what you don't want to happen. The top pic would need a thicker lash pad to correct.... As far as doing it while the engine is running? You doing one of those Zedrally type porting jobs?

Can you define normal Mike? Guess some people might try it while the head is still on the engine in the car, especially those who don't have an engine hoist or stand........

Well, I happened to look in the drawer and there is another book also, How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine by Tom Monroe. It also goes into detail on how to check you contact patch on the rocker pad, basically what you want is the contact patch to be centered on the pad. You can check it with layout dye, or even a black magic marker. You need to cover the pad of the rocker with this, doing one rocker at a time, and assemble the valves, lash pads, etc with a good cam lube, and rotate the cam 360 degrees with the while the rocker pivot is threaded all the way in and the jam nut is up as far as it will go. Then you will be able to remove the rocker arm and check the contact patch. Thicker lash pads will move the contact patch toward the rocker tip, and thinner moves it towards the pivot. BTW, some of the aftermarket cam manufactures may be able to supply the lash pads, as well as Nissan Motorsports. The are available in thicknesses from 3.85-8.5mm (.150-.330 inch) in .010 increments... So you can see, this can be a very involved process.... One which I haven't done either, I'm learning it while I read it myself....:cross-eye

The book you need is the 'How to Hotrod and Race Your Datsun" by Steve Smith Autosports Publications... You should be able to get one through Amazon here on the site if you use our bookstore. As Mike said, it is a complicated affair, and is best done when you have nothing better to do for a while.... Remember one very important thing, use new rockers with the new cam, or you run the risk of doing damage to the new cam if you use old rockers. It is a very labor intensive job considering in the book it says that a difference of .015 inch difference in lash pad thickness can make the difference in your cam lobe contacting the rocker in the proper place, or having it run off the edge of the rocker pad. Basically what you need to do is adjust the lash pad thickness so the cam lobe runs off the end of the rocker pad within .010-.015 of the end of the pad. If the lash pad thickness is not right, the cam lobe will run off the rocker pad too soon and will not keep the valve opened long enough, or too late and have the valve open too long, which could possibly lead to valve/piston contact on some engines.... What you need are new rockers and an assortment of lash pads in different thicknesses, hopefully if you can get them from a dealer with the understanding you can return the unused ones and only pay for the ones you use you'll be able to do this fairly inexpensively. Then you'll need a very good light and perhaps a small magnifying glass to make sure your're seeing things correctly. One word of caution, I wouldn't try to do this with the engine still in the car.....you'd end up standing on your head in the engine compartment. If you need, I can scan the pics to show the correct and incorrect cam lobe to rocker pad contact...:cross-eye

I've used RedLine synthetics in both the diff and trans, not that it made a huge difference.. It did help the trans a bit making it easier to shift, but no huge improvement. Synthetics are a bit lighter in weight, which will help conduct heat out of the diff and trans, as opposed to holding the heat, while still giving you the protection that a hypoid oil will. Unfortunately the synthetics are quite a bit more expensive. I've used them in the race car, and plan on using them in the street car as well... Call it piece of mind more than anything.

If you are going to pull the rear cover, you'll have to pull either the whole diff, or at least the mustache bar in order to get the mounting bolts out of the mustache bar. Only way to get the rear cover off without removing the diff or mustache is if you pull the mounting studs out of the rear cover, that would be your easiest course of action. Take the nuts off that mount it to the mustache bar and double nut each stud one at a time and remove them. Then you should be able to remove the rear cover if you can get a wrench on all the bolts... Might be difficult on a couple..... Otherwise you'll either have to remove the whole diff or mustache bar.

Yup, ya know they are ripping us off if they want 9/10 of your arm, leg and first born too....:cross-eye

Funny, looking at the page on this site it says it's BSR's 240 at Lime Rock, yet the back end says it's a 280 and those flairs are obviously on the GTU 280... Here a pic of the cars on zhome, still looking for more... http://www.zhome.com/History/sharp.htm

Just happened to think, if you have a hard time finding them, try a good hardware supplier. Seems if you gave them the measurements, a brass cruch washer should be something they could come up with. Or Try McMaster-Carr, or you never know, a good farm implement shop might have something that might just work? Hard to believe, but a farm tractor supply is one of the only places you can find a U-joint for the steering shafts now...:cross-eye

As far as where to find more pics... ya got me.... I'm pretty sure that BSR sold all the old GTU, IMSA and SCCA cars back in the mid-90's. Even the Turbo ZX... I think the only car that Bob has kept is the first car, the 240 C-Production championship car that Scott later used as his break into the big time... I remember seeing an article in the old Z Car Magazine with pics of all the cars that were for sale. This looks like the 75 280 CP car that might have been the last of the CP cars that he ran, which was the last "true" Z before he started with the ZX's...and if it is, it is the one that won the CP championship in 75. I'll do some searching and see what else I can come up with....

I never had any marbles to play with when I was growing up... So how could I lose them?

Yup, Georgia and South Carolina have always had the lowest prices on gas and other fuels as they have some of the lowest state taxes on them.... Anyone else hear on the news braodcast a couple nights ago, the price for a barrel of oil has gone down 14 dollars a barrel since last month? Anyone notice a drop in the consumers prices? Half of our problems are right on Wall Street, with all these people trading in oil futures..:cross-eye

It is after all, in Funnybone isn't it?..... Maybe someone should have mentioned using glass bead, so it would just roll out the exhaust pipe easier..... :devious:

I wouldn't put it back together without them. They would be a crush washer that prevents the sleeve, or distance piece as it's called in the FSM, from being deformed. Best bet would be to try MSA or Courtesy Nissan for replacements... I know they must be available somewhere as racers break stub axles all the time and have to replace these items.... If no luck, get back to me and I'll see if I can dig up something through one of the guys I used to race against that has a lot of experience changing the stub axles...Their car is the one featured in MSA's catalog, the #61 ITS 24 hour endurance car.....

Who are you asking this question to? If you want to ask a question in a thread, use the new reply not the new thread option.

It will fit, but I'm not sure if that is an R-200 or an R-180.. looks like a 180. The only thing you would have to do is change the flanges and output shaft. If it is an R-200 you just change the mustache bar and lower lateral link the same as you would if you took the diff out of a 280... Subaru's have always been a good source of LSD's to fit into Z's. The hard part is knowing which models of Subaru's had the LSD's and which rear it has, as I believe some of the Subaru's did have 180's while other had 200's....

If you can't find a used one, MSA has new stock knobs... although they are 47 bucks... They also have custom knobs with your choice of pattern inserts....

Seems to be a run on people needing gas tanks, so if one of you guys still has one..... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=34165#post34165

I don't like to disagree, but you can't go by the VIN numbers to guess production output. You have to realize that prior to 71 production output was less than 20,000 HLS cars, yet for the 72 model they produced somewhere in the neighborhood of 30,000 in one year. I don't know the production numbers for HS-30's, et al, but I'm sure Alan might have some ideas? My 71 has a production date of 11/70 as does a friend of mine. His cars VIN is 1028 less than mine while being produced in the same month... So as you can see, they were already increasing production as early as late 1970. So you can see a guess of 2 months =700 cars is going to be on the short side.... Then there is the fact that the HLS cars were mixed in with the HS-30 models and others, which would give you an even higher per month production run....Hard to say how many could have come out of the factory on a daily basis, at least not without seeing invoices of some kind from the factory.