2ManyZs

I knew I had never seen them on anyones site, or for that matter in any catalogs.... Just thought those two would know whether or not you can get them.. More than likely your going to have to make your own. Shouldn't be too hard if you can get one off in one piece to trace onto a sheet of rubber gasket material.

Try Too Intense, and if Troy can't get them or tell you where to get them, try Ebay. One of our members has a lot of the rubber pieces up for auction, his username is rzola, or go to his web-site at http://www.cybersanford.net/

Rivets are a terrible choice. Welding is the only way to keep the strength of the unibody. Unless the patches are only a couple inches square, but I'd still weld them in.

Yup, they'll fit just fine. In fact, that's almost the same exact size as stock for the tires...

The metal you see behind the large hole in the fender is actually the part that caused most of the problem.:disappoin The backside of the fender has bracing that runs down the back of the fender to stiffen the bottom and it is open to all sorts of debris and water. The water from the cowl drain dumps down right on top of the end of the rocker and then it gets inside these braces and causes the outside of the fender bottom to rust out. You really need to take of the fender, as the front of the rocker could be needing repairs as well as the hole in the fender.. Sorry to give you bad news, but if you take it apart and then it's OK, you'll at least know one thing you won't need to worry about for a while. If it is bad, well, after you get done replacing what is bad and fixing the hole in the fender, you won't be getting any surprises in the next few years...

Yup, seen it many times....:cross-eye Best thing to do is to cut out as much of the rust as you can and plate it with patch panels. It will take a little time to bend them to to fit exactly, but it isn't too bad.. Try to use the same thickness of metal to patch as what is there. You can butt weld in a patch that is formed to the exact size of the hole, or just put a square patch on each side and then grind the welds down to make them less noticeable. Just make sure whatever you do, get all the rusted and compromised metal out so you won't have it rusting again.

Well George, you seem to have us confused what you mean by the transverse link.... The only part of the Z suspension that we'uns over on this side call the transverse link is in the rear suspension that connects the rear mounts of the control arms... If this is what you are referring to, they are interchangeable, although the 280 has a bend in it for more clearance for the R-200 rears our 280's had...

The Tension Rod or T/C rod is the same for all cars up to 78.

I just happened to have a referrence library close to the computer....:stupid: As far as the "dipping" process, I haven't heard of any place that does it, but if I were to guess, they would probably be in the Richmond/Tidewater or DC area.... The major drawback of this is all the labor involved in stripping the chassis. Not only that, but I believe there's quite a bit of labor involved after it is stripped, in cleaning off the chassis after the dipping and sealing the chassis metal. Of course, then you have to start putting it back together after it's painted.... I might know a couple people that might be know somewhere that does it.. I can ask around.

Well, both the areas you show are common rust prone areas, if that makes you feel any better.... You can cut out the rusted out portions and just put small patches in but by the looks of the rust behind the holes, I'd say you'd be better off buying the patch panels that are available and going to distance...You might end up putting new rockers in as well if the rust has compromised the rocker at either end. The front fender is the easiest of the two..or should I say less difficult as you can remove the fender and get it up on a bench where you can work on it. The dog leg behind the door is the more involved and is probably one of the two toughest fixes, second only to batter tray rust. You need to take a good look on the inner fender and see if you have any rust through there... I just did one side of mine and had to buy a complete inner fender patch panel and cut the bottom six inches off it to patch where the rust had gone from the dog leg through the inner fender. Not only does it go into the inner fender, but it can get into the rocker and the door jamb as well. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, you might be ahead of the game to get a body man look at it and see what they would charge to repair if you supply the panels.

Well, I've never give one a nickname before, but my 71 would probably be "Money Pit".......:cross-eye

I've thought about using those end links. They won't make the bar any "stiffer" like they state, just bring it's effectiveness on sooner(less suspension travel) if you shorten them up, such as if you were to use a shorter sleeve. But then, they do look like they would possibly be stiffer than the stock piece, so you might actually get more out of a slightly stiffer bar than if you used a stiffer bar with the stock pieces...... 45 is fairly cheap, and you do have an easy way to play with the handling. If you spend a couple hundred on new sway bars and find the handling isn't quite what you want, at least you can easliy tinker with it to try to make it better....

"Eyebrowing" of the block is recommended even if the larger valves don't end up touching the block. It will unshroud the valve as the valves are so close to the cylinder wall it will interfere with the incoming charge of air/fuel. You need to only do a slight clean up using the headgasket you will be using as a guide to eyebrow the tops of the cylinder walls between the cylinders. I've got an N-42 on my L-24 and I doubt very seriously if whoever put it on there did any modifications to the block.... of course, maybe they just let the valves hammer the cylinder wall out of the way.....:cross-eye But, since the valves are so close to the cylinder wall, eyebrowing would be a good idea or you won't be getting the full effect of having the larger valves in the first place...

Well, I can't say that I've done it, but here is the formula in Wick Humble's book. Ditzler Duracryl DDL 2862 Argent with quite a bit of suede additive. 1 pint DDL 200 units DX265 300 units DX 264 Thin 100-150% and spray fairly dry. Regulate air pressure to the high side Make sure you keep the paint mixed in the cup Don't expect any gloss as it shouldn't have any Unmask as soon as the paint has "flashed over" so you don't run into problems when you remove the tape.

Pic didn't come through......:cross-eye

Not exactly sure which wires you are referring to, but there are I believe two short wires that come out of the wiring harness that both go to the same ground under the battery on the inner fender. One way to check the injectors is to take a long straight screwdriver, place the blade against the metal hold down on the injector, turn the car over, and put your ear against the handle of the screwdriver. If you hear it ticking, it's working, if not, check your wiring around the coil for a loose wire, and at the wiring junction block right next to the coil. That is where your injectors pick up their signal to fire, right off the distributor... It might just be a loose wire, or it could be a wire isn't on the right terminal.

Look at this page and then decide what kind of overall gear ratios you want, that is if you are going to keep the stock rear end ratio. You have a choice between a 2.90 or a 2.50 overall gear ratio in 5th with the stock 3.36. If you want a 2.9 go with the 77-78 5 speed, if you want a 2.50, go with the 79-83 ZX 5 speed. Just remember to use the same speedo drive in the 5 speed or you might possibly have a speedo that reads wrong, and make sure you use the collar and fork that comes with the 5 speed for the throw-out bearing. Everything else is a simple bolt in. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/ratios.gif

It might since the N-47 is the only head that used the round exhaust ports. You would probably be better off trying to find a P-90 head off the 280Zx Turbo's... Bolts right up in place of the N-47 with no trouble.... And it is designed to flow a little better as it was was used on the Turbos from the factory.

I use Simple Green. It's bio-degradable and safe to use on paint. If the pre-mixed bottle you buy at Wal-Mart or wherever isn't strong enough, go get a gallon or whatever size you can find and use it straight. It does a pretty good job on the grease, maybe not as good as some commercial spray engine cleaners, but they normally caution against getting it on the paint as it will discolor it or worse, remove it.... If it doesn't get it all off the first time, do it again and maybe scrub it a little with a soft brush for the really grungy stuff.... You can use this stuff to clean carpets, seats, tires, nearly anything on a car if it is mixed properly..and it doesn't stink too bad...

Nope, sorry. 260's had E-88 heads with square exhaust ports, your N-47 is the "odd ball" of the bunch with round ports... http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html

The only thing you really need to cover is the air filters or the end of the air cleaner (depending on which type of filter set-up you have) and then you can wash all you want. When you are done washing, take the distributor cap off and spray the inside with a little WD-40, take each plug wire loose(one at a time) and spray it in the top of the cap, and if you have to, do the same at the plugs. No matter how you try to keep it out of the distributor cap, it always seems to get wet, unless you take all the wires off that is, but then you better remember how they go back in order...:cross-eye

If no luck at MSA, try Charlie Osborne at http://www.datsunzparts.com/electrical.html

Dents don't look like they are that bad that they couldn't be repaired, but, dpending on how they repair them, you might end up having to have the bumpers re-chromed. Which, in the long run will be cheaper than buying new ones.' As for the ends pieces, I haven't seen them listed for a while... Try e-mailing Andy Russell at z@datsundude.com He might know of a supplier, or check with Troy at Too Intense our advertiser on the main page.... Oops, forgot one other supplier, Charlie may have everything you need... http://www.datsunzparts.com/bumper.htm

You should be able to get the motor itself out without taking the dash out, however, you might find it tough to get to some of the mouting bolts or screws....If you are a contortionist, you can do a lot under the dash without removing it.....

MSA has them, or you could try Paul Spruell Alfa, I can try to find a few more suppliers but the prices aren't going to be cheap for 15x7's. You might figure about 200 each...:cross-eye If you use the search function for Panasports, you might find a fe more threads with links to suppliers. Stock wheels on the 280 should be 14x6.