2ManyZs

MSA may have them, but be prepared.... they are expensive....:disappoin

That's a question that can't be answered without knowing what kind of racing you are going to do. Is it something you are planning on doing a coil-over? If not, and you are just going to use stiffer stock type springs, you probably won't need a bar that big. Actually, you should choose your bars after choosing the spring, strut cartridge set-up...Of course, if there is a way of making this bar adjustable, then you could tune it to whatever you handling needs are after you have built the rest of the suspension and tested it to see what your handling is like....

Hmmm, one of the cars I'd like to have if I ever won the Lotto is an older 77-79 Aston Vantage Volante... But I'd rather have a real one...... Does look pretty cool though, they actually go together pretty well.....

Sounds like he'll need someone like the buyer of the 146 dollar wiper blades to come look at it before he gets his asking price then....:stupid: :devious:

I haven't seen one that was bigger than 1 7/8(280) but that doesn't mean 2 inch weren't made... I'd say a 2 inch bar would only be good for a truly serious race car, one with all the suspension mods such as coil overs with very stiff springs and probably racing on slicks. On a street car with stock or slightly higher than stock spring rates, a bar that large is going to defeat the purpose. If you are going to drive the car at all on the street, I wouldn't use it as it is going to effectively increase your "kidney pounding" to an unacceptable level. You will stiffen the suspension even more with a bar that large, of course, body roll will be a thing of the past....:cross-eye You will need to increase the bar size incrementally with the up rating of your springs, ie. stock springs will work with stock bars or slightly larger, stiffer springs with slightly larger to another step larger bar....Bars like you describe would be best left to a GT car with slicks and a very stiff chassis as well as a very stiff suspension. Think of it this way, if your springs allow the suspension to compress easily, the sway bar then is put into the equation and will effectively act as a torsion bar to try to counter act the suspension movement, if enough stress is put on the bar trying to overcome soft springs, you could end up ripping the bar mounts right out of the frame rail.

ZmeFly, doesn't that yellew engine block look kinda familiar? Like on Ebay about 3 weeks or so ago? :sick:

More like a Kenworth.....

Take a note of where the sound control is located... and point the exhaust away from it with a 45 or 90 degree tip if worse comes to worse..... Another thing you could always try is using one of the bullet style race mufflers in place of the resonator in the tunnel and another at the back.

Err, 3 inch? :cross-eye

Looks like someone backed into something and rolled the lip of the rear panel... Or someone parked too close and hit the tail pipe and pushed it into the panel. Not too hard to fix if it isn't creased too bad or been compromised by rust, and it is right at the seam between the quarter and rear tail panel so you would need to check the weld after straightening. As far as the Optima battery? It's kinda the old saying: "shut the barn door after the horses got out". FWIW, my 71 had similar rust under the battery tray, after removing the tray, I removed all the rust and had a pitted surface that I cleaned thoroughly and have now got it covered with primer until I can get some POR-15 on it. Mine did have some streaks down to the frame rail as well, but luckily it was only on the surface as after stripping the paint the metal was clean. The frame rail was very tight against the inner fender luckily, not the usual gaps between the spot welds, so hopefully, it won't cause any trouble later. I seriously doubt if you will ever, ever find a Z that hasn't had(or have)at least minor surface rust under the tray.

The little bit of rust shown is not too critical. It shouldn't be there, but that little bit would be an easy fix.... It's when the rust is all the way back to where the inner fender panel meets the firewall that gets critical. The pic just shows some surface rust that wasn't taken care of properly and is bubbling under the paint. It could easily be taken care of by pulling the tray, sanding, and coating it with POR-15 and then a top coat to match the car. As far as the other car goes, the shifters on all of the early cars with the A model transmission are sloppy compared to the later B models, the only way to fix it is with the solid bushings, but it will never shift quite as slick as the "B". Seats are an easy fix as is the suspension if it just needs bushings and/or strut cartridges. With the price, I would expect better, but the chassis' being in good to very good condition and the fact that you won't break the bank replacing parts that are missing is one thing to consider as well. As far as telling you which one to go for, that's gonna be all up to you and how much you are willing to spend. Take a little time to look the cars over and make a list of the pro's and con's of each car. Then sit back and compare them. Make a list of what eash car will need until it would suit you and see which one would require less investment after the purchase price and go with that.

Looks like a Supra Turbo motor to me, but that looks to be a handmade header for sure....

I'd go with a 2 1/2 inch pipe with a muffler, preferrably a turbo muffler such a Carl mentioned. The twice pipes were always by far the loudest cars on the tracks as many racers were using them when I was racing in the early 90's. Just to give you an idea, my 280 had one of MSA's 2 1/2 inch pipes with no muffler, and I was usually in the 102-105 range depending on the weather. I did have a slightly turned down tip on mine though, not an 90 degree elbow, but a 45 angle cut tip with it pointed straight down. FWIW, before I sold the car, I replaced the rusted out tip with a Dynomax 2 1/2 inch straight thru race muffler (bullet style) and it was nearly as quiet as the car was with the Turbo muffler that came with the system. I think the muffler was about 40 bucks from Summit Racing. Don't forget, you can always use a angled tip or even a 90 degree bend at the tip to aim it at the track.... or away from sound control to quiet it down if it is too loud when you get to the track, just go get a cheap one at the auto parts store and take it with you wherever you go just in case......

Or just provide the Automotive links to sites that don't require registration, making the box smaller..... Maybe downsizing the number of News blocks on the Main Page to just one or two instead of three. I like the Gallery block, keeps me up to date on the newest photos without having to visit the gallery unless I see something interesting.... With the random image link in the Gallery block now, do we really need the extra random image block as well?

Or you could have someone follow you in a "Nascar style" draft 3 inches off you rear bumper and you would have no vacuum at all on the rear of your car, well, maybe that wouldn't be the best idea huh?

Well, I've seen an E-46....My 71 has one on it, not 100% sure it is original though as the head has been changed, so I can't be positive they just swapped the orginal carbs and manifold over when the changed the head to an N-42..... Not sure if any of the other manifolds I have are E-46's or not. I've never taken an inventory. But I know someone who has a car that was built the same month as mine and if he still has the original manifold I can ask him, as he's the original owner.

You mean this one? http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html It's still in our links, you can find it easier to look under Top 10...

As far as I know, the N-42 was the only one with bronze seats, however, the steel seats in the other heads woud not be the hardened seats. The softer steel seats will last quite a while, but the only way to tell if they are good or not is during a valve job....

Mike, I'd start on the leak issue before you worry about a spoiler to stop the fumes. The spoiler will change the aero of the car, but you will still have a low pressure area behind the car which will create a vacuum and still pull the fumes into the car. All the spoiler does is change the shape of the vacuum behind the car, not get rid of it entirely. The spoiler will use the airflow over the car to create a little bit of downforce on the back of the car and and only move the swirl of air that swirls down to the rear further back from the rear of the car before it joins with the air that comes under the car and then circles back the rear of the car... Hope you can understand what I'm trying to say here.... Here's a pic with a diagram of the airflow that might give you a better idea..

It might, and it might not.... If it works the way it's supposed to, it shouldn't leak any worse than before... best thing to do is start sealing the leaks....

If you still are running points, have you checked them or replaced them? Perhaps they are either closed up or burned to the point that you are getting only a very weak spark. Could be the vacuum advance is messed up and/or the distributor cap or rotor are the problem. Just because you have a spark, doesn't necessarily mean it is a strong spark. If you unhook the coil wire, lay a plug on the valve cover and crank the motor over you should be able to see the spark from beside the door, or possibly even hear it..... It's either that or a somewhat compromised fuel system, filter, pickup in the tank, weak pump, are not allowing enough fuel through to the cylinders... Could be the ballast resistor is shot and has been supllying the coil with too much voltage and has caused that to burn itself out, it might still be supplying some voltage to the plugs, but not enough... Few other odd possibilities, but those would be the most obvious...

A fuel cell would most likely be legal in most states, but you might run into problems with the emissions approval in some states unless you run all the vent lines like the stock tank. CA is probably one of the states that would not allow this if any state was going to reject it.... I'd go for a used or rebuilt stock tank unless you plan on racing... A fuel cell is going to be darn expensive to get one that you can carry near the stock capacity of fuel. Probably even higher than if you could find a new stock tank. With a fuel cell you would then have to buy a sending unit for the gauge or just go around guessing how far you can go before you run out on the side of the road... You might try one of your local Z clubs or racing clubs as someone might have a stock tank that they have replaced with a fuel cell on a race car... Then you could have it cleaned and re-sealed and have one almost as good as a new one... I remember seeing a site that listed a new tank for a Z but they were pretty expensive if I remember correctly.:disappoin

The seat covers are intechangeable, one of the more popular upgrades was the 280 style into the 240 since a lot of people prefer something other than vinyl under our butts.... No reason it can't be swapped the other way around...

I think the only thing rare about those wipers, were the fact it would be a "rare" to find someone foolish enough to believe everything he reads....:stupid: Wonder what kind of money he would pay for some truly rare and hard to find items....:devious:

I've been thinking about trying these myself. http://www.classiczcars.com/modules.php?s=&name=Reviews&rop=showcontent&id=10 Stock ones you should be able to get from most any good parts store, but you might have to take one of the old ones with you so they can match up the length. Or try MSA or Courtesy Nissan....