2ManyZs

Fuel tank capacity for a 240 is 15.9 gallons. 280's had a slightly larger tank at 16.3 gallons if I remember right. Have you checked your vent hoses on the tank to see if any are blocked off or crimped? You may have trapped air in the tank while filling it, and therefore not getting the tank full.

Here's the link to the auction Rolf. I remembered seeing a thread in the Z Car on Ebay forum here and looked back through and found it. You should be able to e-mail the seller through Ebay and see if he still has it. I don't think it met reserve either time it was listed. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2403442231&category=6187

All the shrouds are two piece if I remember right, but by the sounds of it, you may have a shroud for a 280. The 280 radiator is a bit larger than the 240 radiator and the shroud is about an inch or so too big, both in height and width. If you line up the mounting holes on one side, and the opposite side is past the holes, then I'd say it's a 280 shroud for sure. The 280 shrouds are a dime a dozen, the 240 shrouds are hard to find....:disappoin

Well, it sounds like a good idea, but, I think you will find those cells are usually fairly small in capacity... One of the main reasons for putting a fuel cell in the car other than the safety factor is the ability to lower the bottom of the cell to a point that is lower than the stock tank. This will substantially lower the center of gravity of the cell versus the stock tank. Also to be able to offset it to the right or left a bit to help with the balance as well as lowering the center of gravity on the rear of the car. Even with equal sized cells, say an 8 gallon cell, it would be a major improvement if the bottom of the cell is on an equal plane as the rear suspension crossmember versus 2 inches higher than the top of the stock tank. It's a bit more work to mount it down low, but the benefits would be worth an extra afternoon of work.

Looks pretty darn good to me too... Perfect looking dash, everything under the hood looks to be close to stock, not to much changed.. Only thing I see that might make it look better would be new carpet, but that's really pretty minor. If he can show proof of the low mileage, the car ought to be worth second look and is possibly worth more than 5K. Not good if you are the buyer, but it looks to be worth considerably more than the typical 75-78 280's you see on Ebay.

Carl, I don't know that we really want to know how Beandip got his, do we? Maybe that's part of the reason he was a firefighter....:nervous:

The best advice I can give is to get a Factory Service Manual. They are expensive, but, compared to the other manuals you buy, they are worth every penny. I've got an old Haynes manual that has a small section on the 280's, but it shows evertyhing except the vacuum line diagram. I'm fairly sure the FSM has one, and will have much better electrical diagrams as well. The FSM has a very large section for trouble shooting problems with the fuel injection as well as test to perform on the various sending units and sensors. It is money well spent if you hate banging your head against the wall when it comes to fixing problems on the FI and ignition in the 280's. Andy Russell should have one for your year car, you can contact him at z@datsundude.com The FSM's are 72 plus shipping....

If you want it just a tad quieter, Dynomax has a stright thru race muffler that could be used in the tunnel where the pre-muffler or resonator was in the stock system. I bought one from Summit Racing for about 40 bucks and put it on my straight exhaust I had on the race car and it quieted it down considerably. Might just do the sound trick without cutting down the flow you have gained with the new system.

If you pull the turbo off the intake and find oil, you know it's the turbo. You might be able to see if you pull the inlet off the turbo, but it would be better if you pulled the turbo off the intake or intake plumbing. If you find no evidence of oil at the turbo, it has to be after the turbo, either in the valve seals or somewhere else. Sometimes you will see oil leaking round the turbo seal where the impeller housing bolts together, but not always.

If I had the money, I'd have to make a difficult choice between this and the 260 on Ebay right now... Oh well, don't have the money for either, so I guess it doesn't matter.... Just wish the guy with this 260 would quit listing it when I'm un-employed... He did it last year, and now here it is again.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2407528101&category=6187

I remember seeing the first pic Alfa posted somewhere, either here or was the car listed on Ebay or another site? I remember seeing the Waste Management sign at the side of the driveway..... As far as finding a 73 610 for a donor car, that sounds good if you can find one... most of the 610's and 710's around here are either race cars themselves, or went to the crusher years ago... :disappoin

No matter which type of bushing you use, it would be a good idea to put some grease on the inside sleeves, just to make it easier if you ever have to take it apart for anything in the future. Especially important will be the spindle pins on the rear, grease them completely, or they will seize in the bottom of the strut housing...:cross-eye As for torque settings, I'd use the same for either type of bushing.

Now that it's been said, I'm pretty certain they are spot welded only, and then the lead filler is used to fill up the seam. I don't see why you couldn't grind it down and seam weld it and get rid of the lead if you so choose. As far as getting rid of all the flex, with strut bars and such, it would be almost impossible as a unibody is designed to have a bit of flex as it is inherent in the design. You'll never get a unibody to have the rigidity of a body on frame, unless you spend a lot of money.....

Well.... If you are going to remove the starter, it might not be a bad idea to take it somewhere and have it tested first, just to make sure that is the problem... Lots of auto parts stores will test stuff like this for free...

MSA's price is only 30 or so each... sounds like someone is trying to get rich of each part they sell.... I've used them from MSA, the local Napa store and even a couple from the Advance store. Usually the were Moog if I remember right. Used them on the street and racing with no problems ever.....

It looks pretty good, but geez, you'd spend a pile on it just putting back what is missing...:cross-eye

Usually if the starter is the problem, when you hit the key, the starter will spin and not engage the flywheel. If it's the solenoid, it will be silent when you hit the key.

Hmm, hard to tell in the pic... I was going by the color of it, it looked to be the same color as the infamous bondo.... Could be some kind of epoxy primer I guess...

That's the seam where the roof panel meets the rear quarter panel. I can't remember if it's seam welded or spot welded, I think spot welded. It can have a little flex there over the years, as a spot weld is never going to be as strong as a seam weld. Looks like someone has put a little putty there in the past, and probably what little flex has occured, has caused the putty to crack. I guess the question would be why the filler is there in the first place?:cross-eye

#6 is just the small outer repair panel that goes on the bottom of the fender, while #5 is the complete fender. #11 is just the dog leg section of the complete quarter panel (#10) If you choose not to replace the complete quarter (if you have no rust through around the wheel lip) then just use the small dog leg panel. Same with the front fender, if you don't need the whole thing, just cut off the bottom and weld in the repair panel in its place. If you have a lot of rust in the rear quarter around the outside of the fender lip, be sure to check the inner fender, as they will both rust through at the same time usually. If you have a hole in the bottom of the inner fender at the very bottom, you'd almost need to buy the inner panel to fix it correctly. I tried to make a patch for the inner fender, and the curves are almost impossible to duplicate, or at least for a novice they were....I ended up buying the inner fender panel, and cutting off what I needed to patch the inner fender so the dog leg would seal off the end of the rocker... BTW, MSA has a better price on the inner fender panel if you need it. Same prices on the fender panel and dog leg panel though.... MSA also has a better price on the large quarter repair panel, which in the long run, might be easier than just the dog leg. You will open up the quarter and be able to repair or replace the inner fender panel if it is needed.

Rolf, I don't know what the problem might be with MSA, as I have sent them a couple e-mails that went unanswered. Maybe they are overwhelmed with trying to set up their secure web order pages... Something they should have done years ago...

They ought to, and possibly even supply you with the cam tower shims if your head has been shaved top and bottom. FWIW, I found Crane cams on another site, that were 255 and up, just for the cam, then you'd have to buy springs, lash pads etc...

I might have a brand new set I bought a few years ago for my Webers, not sure if they are the ones you want. Send me your home e-mail address in a Private Message and I'll try to dig them out tomorrow and send you a pic of them.. I've changed my mind and probably won't use them if and when I ever get around to using the triples.

I've looked at a few different suppliers, and for the price, the MSA cam kit seems to give you the most for the price. I've seen bare cams listed for 255 on another site, and by the time you add the springs, lash pads, keepers and all that, the MSA kit is a bit cheaper. Best thing is, once you tell them what you are expecting out of the cam, they will advise you on the lash pad thickness to go with the cam. MSA's kit is 489.95, which seems like quite a bit until you think about it giving you the proper lash pads, new springs, etc... only thing you'd need to supply is the new valve seals... Personally, I'd go with their 17030 or 17033 gind. Either gives you good power in the lower revs and pulls up to 5 to 6K.

If it won't turn over, it won't be the coil wire....:cross-eye Sounds more like either a loose battery cable, or a bad connection at the starter. If not that, might be the starter solenoid has gone... or the ignition switch...or.... Did you check your fuses, the "common" 20 amp(depending on your year, lower right corner)?? Do you hear a clicking when you hit the key?