2ManyZs

I think he may have put one too many 2's in the VIN number, which would bring it to what it should be for a 2/71 HLS-30. Mine is a 11/70 HLS-30 with a VIN just under 15xxx, so his would be about right at 22272. If it is an HLS30 car, it would have had a 4 speed, correct? Weren't most of the HLS30 cars sent to the US? If his was a European delivered car, wouldn't it have been an HS30 Vin number? But then aren't there some countries in Europe that use LHD's as we do? Which would mean an HLS30 would be the correct VIN number.... If it is a HLS30, and the VIN is 22272, it should have a defrost switch that is illuminated as mine does. I think the only non-illuminated defrost switches would have been only on the early build months of 70. But, I'm just guessing from the info posted so far...

Since it looks like he's been buying a mix of 240 and 260 parts, it almost looks like he's planning on turning these parts around on Ebay for profit... either that or the car he's working on needs a little bit of everything....:cross-eye

Looks like too much work for you... Thought you didn't want one that you'd have to roll your sleeves up?:devious:

Ford's better idea to pump up sales of the old Fox bodied Capri's and Mustangs when the sales were going downhill. ASC did the convertible conversion, since at that time, the factories were afraid to sell convertibles due to the insurance and all the modifying they would have had to do to the chassis. I think Mclaren did some suspension work, but other than that it's nothing more than a modified 5.0 Capri or Mustang with a couple badges on it. Chrysler did one similar with Maserati on one of their stumbling models...

If he ends up being the next Bill Gates, I want in too.... That way I can build a bigger garage to hold more cars and toys....:devious:

Burt, if you can't figure out the avatar, Mike might be willing to do it for you as he has done a couple for those of us that "weren't in the know".

Daniel, what have you got against us truck drivers eh? :devious: Smokey, as long as Rock can attest to the condition of the car, I'd say it's at least worth a second look or maybe a third.... The biggest question you have to ask yourself is if one might come along later as nice for less money... If you can't answer that, then maybe this is the one! Good luck, and let us know how it comes out....

Factory says to do it between the lash pad and the cam, so I don't think there is anything wrong with it. Six of one, half dozen of the other... It all amounts to pretty much the same thing when all is said and done.... To be honest, I don't see how it can be any more accurate the way they say, as you would be lifting the lash pad against the cam and could possibly get an erroneous measurement if the lash pad were not fully up against the cam(such as a funky wear pattern on a somewhat tired engine) so either way, you should get the same results. And a hot lash adjustment will be somewhat more true to the valve adjustment than a cold measurement. Maybe that's why their measurements are done cold, they have the engine out on a stand where they can do their measurement without going into a circus contortionist performance....

One or two members here in the US have gone through this before. Most, if not all aftermarket springs are going to lower the car and have a somewhat higher spring rate(stiffer) than stock. No one has yet found a supplier for new stock springs. You could try Andy Russell at z@datsundude.com He might know of a supplier, but I think you will find the factory springs are quite possibly NLA. Oops, just looked up the previous post, seems Banzai Motorworks has a set that is close to stock. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5574

Hmm, stands to reason it could be done either way, but boy, you'd almost have to be a contortionist to do it quickly..... Might be simple to do if the motor is out of the car on a stand, but doing it while it's in the car you'd almost have to stand on your head to make sure you were measuring it correctly..... Or maybe I'm just too tall or don't know the correct way to lean over the fender....

Biggest difference I can think of between the 75-76 and the 77-78 is the fact that the 77-78 arms are black.... I think the wiper assembly is the same, just different colors...

I'd like to chime in with one thought. Don't go to college just to go to college. In other words, make a decision about what type of career you want to pursue BEFORE you go to get a degree. Pursue a degree in your chosen field but only after you have taken the time to look a little ways into the future to see if that career choice is going to be worth the time and money it takes to go through college. A little story to give you an idea of what I'm talking about. Neighbors youngest son wanted to go to college for a degree in sports medicine. He took 2 years at one college and finished with 4 years at Radford University. He worked part time at a Food Lion supermarket stocking shelves in the evenings to help pay his bills while in school. After 6 years of college, he graduates and comes home, only to find that he can't find a job locally. He finds a job 40 miles from home at a new rehab facility next to JMU. Well, guess where he is working now. Yup, you guessed it, he's working full time at Food Lion, because the his chosen specialty doesn't pay enough. He's making almost 3 dollars more an hour working in a supermarket......Kind of a waste of time and money don't you agree? There is nothing wrong with a Technical College, if you plan on working with your hands the rest of your life and enjoy the challenges, just be sure to get as much out of the education as you can. I for one wish I had taken a different path, I was accepted at a school in Tulsa, OK but because I had bought a car, and had some other bills, I couldn't afford to go. Now I wish that I had, as I could be a licensed pilot and a certified A&P mechanic now. A friends brother, who got his experience in the military, is hauling in in excess of 100K a year working on helicopters....:stupid: So just make sure you choose a career that will not only pay you well, but one you will enjoy working in for the better part of your adult life.....It's hard to find a job when you are a master of only one trade and you find you don't want to work in that trade any longer....

You could go to OZ and get a 76 260 so they would fit... Maybe we should pool our money and buy out all the suppliers stock of these, think of what we could get if they really were NLA....:devious:

Motorpsort Auto has sending units in their catalog for just under 40 bucks... Plus you can get the O-ring and most anything else you will need from them.

And to think I just gave away a perfectly good set of used arms complete with blades.... Maybe I better go look to see if I still have that new set....:devious:

Good question, and one I haven't been able to find the answer to yet.... I don't even see it in Wick Humbles' book.... I'd guess it's pretty close to the 918 Orange... but not sure if it's an exact match or not...

New or used? There might be a lot of people with used ones, new ones are going to be hard to find.....

I think they were a Factory authorized option, but you had to buy them through the parts department at the dealer and have them installed. www.zhome.com has a list of all the optional equipment, ski rack, luggage bar, floor mats, A/C and of course shift knobs... Not sure if they were offered before 72 though.... Funny thing, I don't see the luggage cover in there..

I don't know if they are NLA or not, but I sure know they aren't worth that kind of money... unless someone is doing a 100 point concours restoration.....:cross-eye

I would almost have to believe there was some repairs done on this orange one in Florida. Looking at the floors and such, it just doesn't fit with the condition of the interior. If you notice the door gap along the bottom and at the dog leg in a couple of the photos, they aren't too straight.... Nice car, but might be just a tad overpriced....couple grand less and it would be a pretty good deal.

From what I was able to gather, he lifted off the throttle at the top of the hill and the back end came around on him. Not sure if it's true or not, but someone posted on the one site he was going to send this in to his insurance company since it was not during a "race", he either rented the track himself, or a group of them rented the track just so they dould have some fun..... Ya gotta give him credit for one thing, at least he was man enough to use the car the way it was intended instead of using it as a "centerpiece" just to get attention. Kinda like the guy that used to take his Ferrari F-40 to Summit Point years ago and give rides around the track during the lunch breaks with the proceeds of the rides going to charity. The region does that during the Labor Day Double races and have given quite a bit of money to charity by allowing racers to give spectators rides around the track (at reasonable speeds) just to give people a chance to see what racing is all about. The guy with the F-40 used to give the car a bit of a work-out, enough so that they used to have to ask him to slow down.... It was interesting to say the least to be giving someone a ride in my "cheap" old 280 and having a Ferrari F-40 blast by us on the straight and disappear.. :cross-eye

Found a link to this on one of the racing sites, takes a while for the pics to load but worth it. What a way to hurt your pride..... http://www.f150online.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=107562

Here's another one you could try, don't know anything about this company. They are in Ontario, Canada... http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html

This car is being sold on Ebay and yes, we have seen others that were obvious fakes, remember the supposed Z Store car about a year ago? If we don't point out the obvious flaws and/or half truths on some of these cars, our beloved Z cars are going to join the ranks of some of the more popular muscle cars that are being faked and/or misrepresented and going for much higher prices than they deserve. Which in turn will make buyers that more leery of buying or even bidding on cars that are truly worthy of the higher prices that they are entitled due to their early Vin numbers etc.... This seller to his credit did post a retraction on it having a 4 speed and not a 5 speed as he originally listed. But, he still has the wrong VIN number, which to some people that don't know any better, would cause them to think they are getting something they aren't. The car is obviously a late 71 as it has too many discrepencies with a true early car, such as the C-pillar vents, and the steering wheel is a later style as well. If we as a group of true enthusiasts, don't point out the obvious discrepencies of cars like this that are being offered for sale, the next thing you know we'll be seeing the sale of fake Fairlady's, 432's and the like. If we don't "police" our hobby, who will? The next thing you know, a car is going to show up on Ebay with the same VIN number as one of our members cars, being sold for a high price and then the owner of the real car is going to have to prove that his car is the legitimate one. This has already happened with many of the American Muscle cars, and people have been taken to jail for it as well. It would be so much easier to fake a Z as the factory didn't hide a build sheet in the car, all someone needs to do is swap number plates and they are in business. I'll step down now and leave a nickel in the collection plate...... BTW, it has already gone over 4100, and who knows how high it could go if people think it is actually a very early car... but "Caveat Emptor"......

The second and third sentence in his history description says it all. "It is bone stock and original down to its interior. This is a serious survivor." And it's not. Period. There are just enough mods done to make it non-original or a true survivor. It's just a pretty nice car that looks to be in good shape, not a bone stock "survivor". Whether he listed the wrong VIN number or year doesn't really make any difference to me, it's not what he says it is. If it is 3748 then most of the problems stated earlier don't fit with the VIN number, hatch vents etc.... If it is 33748 there's a couple things that don't fit with it being a later car. Like the center console. The console looks to be an early model with the choke and hand throttle, yet only one lever. If it's 33748 it shouldn't have that, going by the fact that mine is 14749 and mine doesn't have the hand throttle. Did anyone notice the half dash cover that looks to be secured on the passengers side with a sheet metal screw? Along with the paint overspray it looks kinda tacky.... Notice how the bumpers are pushed right up against the body? Front and rear?