2ManyZs

Look a little closer, it's a 72 that he's tried to make look like an early car. Can't see any tool boxes behind the seats, wrong valve cover, plus all the other things that are wrong with it.

Something smells bad with this one...:cross-eye Notice the VIN number? That car should have hatch vents, not C pillar vents. Yet it has the early console with one lever missing....It does have the right master cylinder for a 71 though. The antenna is wrong too....Heater hose has been hacked up at the head, and the gas filler door latch isn't right......Nissan never numbered the transmissions on the data plates so even if it were a 4 speed, no way of knowing if it is original.... Either he put in the wrong Vin number or that is a 72 with some of the early trim..... Nice, but not what he's advertising, hopefully someone doesn't believe everything he has written.

I dunno what they do, but it sounds expensive....:tapemouth The IT style head can't have much done to it if it is to the letter of the rules........ Just to give you an idea, way back in the early 90's they were charging in excess of 4500 for the ITS motors....:disappoin

Use the forum search for vent lines and you should find numerous posts on the subject... MSA has filler hoses and vent lines, pricey as they are factory pieces, or you can make your own vent lines.

That kit has probably been out of production for years...:disappoin The last fiberglass body kits were just a bit more subdued and even they are pretty much NLA, as most of the manufacturers sold their equipment. There are a few still on the market, but you'll have a hard time finding one that wide. You'd have to tell us where the rust is before anyone can give you ideas on how to fix it.....

Most likely cast aluminum.....

SCCA-racer you can download the L-engine calculator form our downloads section I believe....I know it's here somewhere if not there... Stock bore on an F-54/N-42, with no overbore and a standard thickness head gasket? Flat top pistons-approx 9.8 Dished pistons-approx-8.3 Nevermind, I found the post so you can download it if you want to.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292&highlight=L+engine+calculator

The data plates are available from: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ Now I'm not sure if they will stamp your numbers in them or if you have to do it yourself. I'd be tempted to keep the car fairly close to stock, at least in the body department. It's a very early car to start putting flares and the like on unless you were to do a "repro" style car with period style body add-ons. You could always do like some of us(or at least I am) and that is to have one engine to play with, modified to whatver you like and keep the original in a crate somwhere if you ever decide to go back to it's original state. I guess the biggest consideration is if you are willing to do a resto by stripping the chassis bare and starting from scratch or if just a good re-paint will satisfy you. Time and money are the biggest considerations if you plan on doing a full-on bare chassis resto. My opinion? Do a good resto of the body while keeping the mods to what can be unbolted if you ever change your mind later, and find an L-28 and build your hopped up engine out of that,F-54 blocks are usually the preferred choice. Keep the original engine in a crate and have fun with the car. If you ever chose to sell the car or decided to show it in original condition, you can just unbolt the mods you have done and restore the car back to its original condition.

If it isn't mounted below the underhood trouble light, guess it means they started the internal regulator in 77 and not 78 like has been previously thought.... I think they changed in 77 but am not 100% sure... There were quite a few changes made between the 75-76's and the 77-78's that it is probable they did...

Oops, getting them mixed up, the one I'm thinking about was 1208....:stupid: :cross-eye

Carl, Wasn't #212 the orange car in Staunton VA that didn't sell at 2700+ with rusted out floors and a pile of spare NOS parts? I was thinking about looking at the car as it's only 60 miles from me, but when I saw it didn't meet the reserve at 2700+ I thought better of it. If you wish, and the guy still has it, I can go look at it for someone if they are interested.

Rolf, most of the suppliers here sold their molds for the fiberglass body panels in the last year or so. I've heard that the molds are now in the hands of some people who are planning to start up production again, so stay tuned.

You could also try a very sharp chisel and make a slot in the blind head for a screwdriver.... I think that's the way I got them out the last time I tried it....

Guess I didn't dig deep enough in the archives over there yesterday....:stupid: Guess we should have that posted in our tech articles so the next person doesn't run into the same trouble huh?

I know I've seen them on a late model car, maybe a Toyota Supra TT?

Hmm, that is odd then... wonder if they did that for a reason?

All the early Z's had vinyl seats form the factory unless the seat covers were a dealer installed item. You won't gain much by changing the cam unelss you plan on a few other changes to be able to compliment the cam, such as ignition upgrades, better exhaust, and depending on the cam selected, rear differential gearing or transmission, not to mention making sure your carbs are in top notch condition. One upgrade is usually dependant on what else you are willing to do in order to get the most out of the upgrades....

Yes, a 280 radiator will work, but the bottom of the core is going to hang below the radiator support as the core is taller on a 280 radiator. Plus you'll have to do a little work to get the mounting right on the radiator support as the bolts won't line up...

I think it looks very expensive.... Notice it only controls fuel? You'll need to do some serious ignition upgrades to use the extra fuel, and getting them to work together won't be easy.... Is it going to be compatible with the Bosch FI system such as from a later 280 or are you going to have to design and build a complete fuel injection set-up to match the controller? Too complicated for me...:stupid:

MSA has 3 row radiators for 194.95 and 4 row for 244.95 If I were you I'd scratch together just a wee bit more and go for the 4 row considering the small price difference and the added capacity and piece of mind a 4 row can give... I've used the 4 rows on more than one car, I raced a 280 without a fan with a 4 row, and the only time it ever went over 190 was sitting in the pits. You might check their specials as the radiators are usually in their sale catalogs.

Here's one that looks a bit better IMO.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406266328&category=6187

It's not a bad looking car, well, I'm not a fan of yellow but I guess it's OK..... The starting bid is a bit on the high side IMO, I'd expect a car like this to top out in the $6500 or so category... No pictures of the interior, or under the hood, so you are bidding kinda blind on this one(after looking at that yellow we know why you are blind) so unless you get more pics, I'd say wait and see if it gets any bids at all. You are taking the owners word about all the added modifications, and spare parts..... There could be some hidden "issues" with the car and that is why only one pic is shown......Being from the Chicago area I would be a little leary bidding on a car that is not proven to have no rust....