2ManyZs

Question is Ivan, did your 240's have the front mounted bar vs. the rear mount bar? Or were all the 240's and 260's the same over there.... We had two different mounting positions for the rear sway bar, one in front of the axl, with the mounts on the rear of the floor pan, and one that mounted behind the diff. That would be the only difference I could think of....

Here's one that list fiberglass.... http://zdatsun.com/fiberglass.html

Yup, they could be the problem. If I remember right, and I don't have my service manual any more for the 75, there is also a fusible link for the fuel injection system in the wire that comes off the positive battery terminal as well.

The black ones are called the scuff plates, while the outer aluminum ones are called the sill plates. I know Andy Russell has a pretty good price on both, wiht balck screws for the scuff plates and stainless for the sill plates. z@datsundude.com.... or did I send you his price list? darn, what's that memory disease called??:stupid:

It should Ed, but if it's on an intake valve, you'd have a vacuum that would suck it right into the cylinder.... The only other things I can think of that would cause this are not good... Oil rings not having the end gaps spaced correctly,head gasket, head cracked, block cracked. So now you see why I'm hoping it's something simple... It could possibly be he just used too much oil assebling it, but it should burn off rather quickly. If it runs and continues to smoke even after 15 to 20 minutes of idling, then I'd say there has to be someplace oil is getting into the cylinder somehow.

Well at least you have one side that looks good on the outside. Now all you have to do is get those 4 stubborn bolts out of the bottom of the fender so you can take the fender off and get in there to see if you have any hidden surprises.. Those 4 bolts are usually the ones that will snap off, so be prepared with a good E-Z out, or a left hand drill bit and a tap and die set. But, be carefull, as I have in the past while trying to loosen those bolts, taken a chunk out of the bottom of the rocker panel.. Just letting you know, just in case:ermm:

I know what would have happened if I had ever done that to one of my Dad's cars...Let's just say I never would have graduated from the 9th grade that year... Luckily for you, painting is better than trying to find another car.

I was under the assumption that all the P-90A's used on ZX's were hydraulic, but, is it possible the head came from an L-series that wasn't used in a Z?

:stupid: Guess I should have proof-read my post a bit better, I thought I had mentioned that... Good catch Rick...

Valve seal sounds like the most likely culprit....Other than that a guide is abou tthe only thing I can think of... unless you want to think about the worst thing that could happen... I think the first thing you should do is pull the valve cover and rockers and check the valve stem seals, perhaps one is crimped or ... you forgot one?

I knew I had never seen them on anyones site, or for that matter in any catalogs.... Just thought those two would know whether or not you can get them.. More than likely your going to have to make your own. Shouldn't be too hard if you can get one off in one piece to trace onto a sheet of rubber gasket material.

Try Too Intense, and if Troy can't get them or tell you where to get them, try Ebay. One of our members has a lot of the rubber pieces up for auction, his username is rzola, or go to his web-site at http://www.cybersanford.net/

Rivets are a terrible choice. Welding is the only way to keep the strength of the unibody. Unless the patches are only a couple inches square, but I'd still weld them in.

Yup, they'll fit just fine. In fact, that's almost the same exact size as stock for the tires...

The metal you see behind the large hole in the fender is actually the part that caused most of the problem.:disappoin The backside of the fender has bracing that runs down the back of the fender to stiffen the bottom and it is open to all sorts of debris and water. The water from the cowl drain dumps down right on top of the end of the rocker and then it gets inside these braces and causes the outside of the fender bottom to rust out. You really need to take of the fender, as the front of the rocker could be needing repairs as well as the hole in the fender.. Sorry to give you bad news, but if you take it apart and then it's OK, you'll at least know one thing you won't need to worry about for a while. If it is bad, well, after you get done replacing what is bad and fixing the hole in the fender, you won't be getting any surprises in the next few years...

Yup, seen it many times....:cross-eye Best thing to do is to cut out as much of the rust as you can and plate it with patch panels. It will take a little time to bend them to to fit exactly, but it isn't too bad.. Try to use the same thickness of metal to patch as what is there. You can butt weld in a patch that is formed to the exact size of the hole, or just put a square patch on each side and then grind the welds down to make them less noticeable. Just make sure whatever you do, get all the rusted and compromised metal out so you won't have it rusting again.

Well George, you seem to have us confused what you mean by the transverse link.... The only part of the Z suspension that we'uns over on this side call the transverse link is in the rear suspension that connects the rear mounts of the control arms... If this is what you are referring to, they are interchangeable, although the 280 has a bend in it for more clearance for the R-200 rears our 280's had...

The Tension Rod or T/C rod is the same for all cars up to 78.

I just happened to have a referrence library close to the computer....:stupid: As far as the "dipping" process, I haven't heard of any place that does it, but if I were to guess, they would probably be in the Richmond/Tidewater or DC area.... The major drawback of this is all the labor involved in stripping the chassis. Not only that, but I believe there's quite a bit of labor involved after it is stripped, in cleaning off the chassis after the dipping and sealing the chassis metal. Of course, then you have to start putting it back together after it's painted.... I might know a couple people that might be know somewhere that does it.. I can ask around.

Well, both the areas you show are common rust prone areas, if that makes you feel any better.... You can cut out the rusted out portions and just put small patches in but by the looks of the rust behind the holes, I'd say you'd be better off buying the patch panels that are available and going to distance...You might end up putting new rockers in as well if the rust has compromised the rocker at either end. The front fender is the easiest of the two..or should I say less difficult as you can remove the fender and get it up on a bench where you can work on it. The dog leg behind the door is the more involved and is probably one of the two toughest fixes, second only to batter tray rust. You need to take a good look on the inner fender and see if you have any rust through there... I just did one side of mine and had to buy a complete inner fender patch panel and cut the bottom six inches off it to patch where the rust had gone from the dog leg through the inner fender. Not only does it go into the inner fender, but it can get into the rocker and the door jamb as well. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, you might be ahead of the game to get a body man look at it and see what they would charge to repair if you supply the panels.

Well, I've never give one a nickname before, but my 71 would probably be "Money Pit".......:cross-eye

I've thought about using those end links. They won't make the bar any "stiffer" like they state, just bring it's effectiveness on sooner(less suspension travel) if you shorten them up, such as if you were to use a shorter sleeve. But then, they do look like they would possibly be stiffer than the stock piece, so you might actually get more out of a slightly stiffer bar than if you used a stiffer bar with the stock pieces...... 45 is fairly cheap, and you do have an easy way to play with the handling. If you spend a couple hundred on new sway bars and find the handling isn't quite what you want, at least you can easliy tinker with it to try to make it better....

"Eyebrowing" of the block is recommended even if the larger valves don't end up touching the block. It will unshroud the valve as the valves are so close to the cylinder wall it will interfere with the incoming charge of air/fuel. You need to only do a slight clean up using the headgasket you will be using as a guide to eyebrow the tops of the cylinder walls between the cylinders. I've got an N-42 on my L-24 and I doubt very seriously if whoever put it on there did any modifications to the block.... of course, maybe they just let the valves hammer the cylinder wall out of the way.....:cross-eye But, since the valves are so close to the cylinder wall, eyebrowing would be a good idea or you won't be getting the full effect of having the larger valves in the first place...

Well, I can't say that I've done it, but here is the formula in Wick Humble's book. Ditzler Duracryl DDL 2862 Argent with quite a bit of suede additive. 1 pint DDL 200 units DX265 300 units DX 264 Thin 100-150% and spray fairly dry. Regulate air pressure to the high side Make sure you keep the paint mixed in the cup Don't expect any gloss as it shouldn't have any Unmask as soon as the paint has "flashed over" so you don't run into problems when you remove the tape.

Pic didn't come through......:cross-eye