2ManyZs

Ok, now that you have our attention, could ya give us the pic?

Don't ask me why they call them that. I can't answer that question any more than I can answer the question of why Nissan Canada has them and Nissan USA doesn't.... They have been called that for as long as I can remember. All the catalogs from Nismo Parts, and all the suppliers call them "euro" so I guess they figure if they weren't offered here they must have been offered somewhere in Europe.. guess Europe could be construed as anywhere except the North American continent... I guess if they called them Fairlady or 432R bumpers no one would would know what they were since very few people ever saw a true Fairlady or 432R. These have holes for only the bumper guards and not for the rubber "rub" strips. So, really they aren't quite the same as the Fairlady or 432R bumpers as they didn't have the holes for the bumper guards correct? So that gives us 3 different types of bumpers that were available..... Sorry Michael, for now they are staying in the bubble wrap until it's time to mount them... I'll post a pic when I decide to unpack them.:cross-eye

As anyone who has tried to get one lately knows they are NLA. You can get the side pieces with no problem but up till now the center pieces were not available. I personally have tried every known supplier with no success until this past week. Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings in Kingston, ON can get them. I just received mine by UPS this afternoon. Don't ask me why Nissan Canada has them and Nissan USA cannot get them, but if you want one, you had better get one soon before they are NLA in all of North America....:disappoin Go to Zedd Findings web-site and get yours before they are all gone. Many people have the "euro" front bumpers and have been searching for the rear to match, so if you want one, you better get one soon.... BTW, for Alan's piece of mind, we call them the "euro" bumpers here in the US because that is they way Nissan describes them in their catalogs to differentiate them from the stock replacement bumpers.... Nismo used that name to describe them, so it's not something we thought up on our own.....

I don't know of any sites or links that might be able to help you decide if this is something you would want to try to tackle without some guidance.... I guess anything is possible if you want to give it a shot, but you might end up wasting money on parts trying to find the correct pieces to make it work. I think the upper mounts should be the same, it's the way it would mount to the steering arm that might be a big problem if it won't bolt up to a 240 steering arm. Perhaps the ZX steering arm could be made to work? Of course, then you would still have to shorten the strut housing and/or reposition the spring perch to get the height correct.....

Hmm, that's what I get for "arse"uming things huh? That really makes it odd then, they went from the N-42 with a mechanical pump boss, to the N-47 and P79 without and yet the next head in use had one for some reason. Before the P-90 was used on the Turbo's they actually used the N-42 since it didn't have the exhaust liners...... Then they changed to the P-90's, and then the P-90A's..... I wonder if there is a difference in the N-47's that were used on the 280's compared to the N-47's that were used on the first generation Maximas as well?

I'm confused.... I just went and re-read the directions and the only thing I can think of is it has to be something in the black/white stripe and white/black stripe connection as it is the only connection that goes to a switched power supply...

Maybe.....Maybe not.... The 280 and 280ZX strut housings are longer and have a longer spring which would make the front end sit way too high. However, you could always either lower the stock spring perch and use 240 springs, or just cut the whole thing and install coil-overs. Not sure if the strut housing will bolt up to the stock 240 steering arm though...If they do bolt up to the steering arm, all you would need to do is cut them and install coilovers or mount the spring perch lower.... Don't really know on that one as most people just change the brakes and not the whole strut housing, so that might indicate the fact that it won't work....They do put the strut housings on the 510's in the front, so it should be possible with a little modifications.... Good idea though....

She's never seen a pheasant, but she is hell on paws when it comes to robins.... Grey squirrels are her favorite thing to chase though...but they get under the fence before she gets a chance to "play".... It's finally gotten into the high 40's and sunny here and now the cabin fever has turned to spring fever.....:classic:

In and out would be most likely the stub axle bearings....:disappoin The only other thing that could cause this would be a broken stub axle...that's even worse then the bearings..... Stub axles aren't to difficult once you get the retaining nut off the inside flange, and that is what gives most people the biggest headache. They take a large socket that most people don't usually have and they are "staked" on the sides as a means to lock them on the stub axle as well. You might also need a slide hammer to pull the stub axle once you get the retaining nut off, at least, that's the easiest way to pull it.... Bearings and the seal should be readily available so the parts aren't the problem... it's getting it apart.. MSA, VB, Courtesy Nissan and a few other should be able to com eup with the parts pretty easily... not sure about current prices though.. And you will need a torque wrench when you put the retaining nut back on as that is what gives you the proper preload on the stub axle bearings.

Guess so Jeremiah, BTW, you feed them thar coon dogs this mornin for ya went to work?

Your gonna need to check that out thoroughly. It could be the bearing in the stub axle, it could the the whole rear control arm that is moving due to bad bushings. Pull the tire and wheel and find out for sure where the problem is. I'm not sure what you mean by back and forth but you'll need to find out if it is in the control arm, or if it is in the hub itself. Hopefully it is the bushing in the control arm which will be fairly easy to replace, the stub axle bearings are a bit harder.

Yup, RTV silicon will work fine. Just run a small bead along the corner where the main cap meets the block. You should also put a small amount in the grooves of the main cap where the side seals install. You should put a small amount of oil on the side seals themselves so that they will slide into the groove easier.

Gary, Don't get discouraged, at least you know where all the parts are..... Mine has been in pieces for 16 months now, and until spring finally gets here, it going to have to sit and wait for the weather to warm up before I can start painting and putting it back together. If you take as long as kmack, then we'll start worrying...

Hate to be the one to disagree with you guys, but the P-79 head is the only one that does not have provisions for a mechanical fuel pump that I know of for sure. I'm not sure about the P-90a, but the N-42, N-47 and P-90 heads all have a block off plate in place over the bosses for mounting a mechanical pump. The P-79 has not opening in the casting for a mechanical pump at all. So, it could in fact be a 2.8 head on the car with carbs and a mechanical pump. I have an N-42 with a mechanical pump on the 71 (original numbers matching L-24 block) so they can be interchanged easily. I'd say since it looks like they swapped the stock intake and exhaust manifolds over from the original engine, it's probably an N-42 or P-90 head as they would be the ones with the square exhaust ports and provisions for a mechanical pump.

Yup, the RS, RSR, and Carrera's were the factory 911 hot rods back in the early 70's....

The old saying, "Can't live with them, can't live without them." applies to cars as well as the opposing sex.......:cross-eye

They have the first and third one pegged, but the second one has me stumped. It's not a transistor ignition unit since it's not a FI car, and I'm not sure about this, but the 73's didn't have the seatbelt interlock. That came out either late 74 or not until the 75's if I remember correctly. Did the car have A/C by chance? Where did you ever find that battery hold down?:devious: :cross-eye

Oops, I thought you were one of the ones that was looking to change springs and cartridges... my mistake, but they still would have disassembled the spring assembly to change it or even removed the whole thing. Which could have gotten something bent ot out of place. I'm going to go out on a limb and wager another guess, it could be an exhaust leak. Either at the gasket at the head or possibly at the collector. This will give you a loud "ticking" sound that will easily be heard inside the car. You won't hear it unless you listen very carefully while the car is idling even if you have the hood up, but while driving it will be quite noticeable... Just another random guess... And the noise would be coming from where you described it as well....Sometimes they can be very difficult to find if it's on cylinders 2-5.:cross-eye

Well, since you didn't tell me that someone had done a spring change when we were chatting, that does reinforce my idea that someone may have bent the dust shield and it's hitting the rotor. Could be something else, but that seems a logical one...

Driving a 240 is like driving a 911 RS or an early Carrera compared to a new 996. No frills, just a good handling, satisfying ride. The earlier cars are fairly bare bones cars that were made for driving pleasure if you like driving. The later cars were starting to get "fat" with luxury items and forgot what the pleasure of driving is. Although they did come close with the 300ZX TT's, they still had too many luxury items and too high a price to be considered a "true sports car". Any Z made up till 78 can be made to handle, and go fairly quick with a few well chosen modifications. The later cars with the large crash bumpers are carrying a fair bit of extra weight, but they do a decent job and they do have FI which when right, can be a lot less "maintence intensive" than the carbs on the early cars. As far as I'm concerned, any car prior to 78 can be a great handling and exciting ride if you have the desire to make it that way. The later cars are a bit cheaper to buy to begin with as they still are available in higher numbers than the early cars simply due to the fact that many more of them were imported.

Well, if this was on the 78, there's no points to worry about. It sounds like something happened to one of the engine sensors that caused the FI to enrichen the mix and caused the car to choke itself out. Hard to tell, it could have been in the water temp sensor, air temp sensor, air flow meter, cold start valve.... Could have been a lot of different things and the only way to find out would be to wait till it does it again and then start checking things to see what is not operating correctly...... That's the worst thing about the FI system, diagnosing an intermittant problem if you can't duplicate the symptoms...:cross-eye

Actually you are just as well off with what you have. The bore and stroke are the same between the two engines. The only way to improve the F-54 engine would be to put a turbo on it to make it worth the effort. You probably have a slightly (very slight) higher compression in the engine you are running now. The only real advantage the F-54 block has is that is a somewhat stronger block since it has the siamesed cylinders. The engines are so close to being the same as they are, there really isn't much reason to change unless the engine you have now is going bad. You'd be further ahead to go ahead and rebuild the F-54 with flat top pistons for more compression while you continue to drive the one you have. That way, you still can drive the car, and with flat top pistons, you will then have a bit more than what you have now. However, if the F-54 you have is from a non-turbo it should already have flat top pistons, which would mean you'd save some money on a good rebuild, then you could change everything over and have a slightly better performer and a fresh engine.

You are lucky in a way, at least it's repairable and the parts you need are still available. Doesn't make it an easier to swallow, but there have been a few members who have had to total their cars. Hmm, maybe you can get them to replace the ball joints, tie rod ends and a few other items while they are fixing the car.... As long as the frame rails and core support are OK, maybe it will get fixed and be better than it was before. The best thing is it was someone else's fault and no one was hurt.

Saint, has it done this ever since you got the car back? Does the pedal firm up with a second pump on the brakes? I'm wondering if you possibly just need a good bleeding again, perhaps there was some trapped air somewhere and it is now moved to one of the wheel cylinders and/or pistons and is causing the soft pedal. Did they bleed the master thoroughly before they bled the brakes themselves I wonder? Most of the time, a problem with the Master Vac will cause a harder pedal due to less assist and you will be standing on the pedal to get the brakes to work, like driving a car with no power brakes at all. When you say the brakes get worse when the power is off(idle?), I'm also wondering if maybe you just have something as simple as a vacuum leak to the Master Vac.....but that would also make it stiffer not softer...