2ManyZs

Not exactly sure which wires you are referring to, but there are I believe two short wires that come out of the wiring harness that both go to the same ground under the battery on the inner fender. One way to check the injectors is to take a long straight screwdriver, place the blade against the metal hold down on the injector, turn the car over, and put your ear against the handle of the screwdriver. If you hear it ticking, it's working, if not, check your wiring around the coil for a loose wire, and at the wiring junction block right next to the coil. That is where your injectors pick up their signal to fire, right off the distributor... It might just be a loose wire, or it could be a wire isn't on the right terminal.

Look at this page and then decide what kind of overall gear ratios you want, that is if you are going to keep the stock rear end ratio. You have a choice between a 2.90 or a 2.50 overall gear ratio in 5th with the stock 3.36. If you want a 2.9 go with the 77-78 5 speed, if you want a 2.50, go with the 79-83 ZX 5 speed. Just remember to use the same speedo drive in the 5 speed or you might possibly have a speedo that reads wrong, and make sure you use the collar and fork that comes with the 5 speed for the throw-out bearing. Everything else is a simple bolt in. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/ratios.gif

It might since the N-47 is the only head that used the round exhaust ports. You would probably be better off trying to find a P-90 head off the 280Zx Turbo's... Bolts right up in place of the N-47 with no trouble.... And it is designed to flow a little better as it was was used on the Turbos from the factory.

I use Simple Green. It's bio-degradable and safe to use on paint. If the pre-mixed bottle you buy at Wal-Mart or wherever isn't strong enough, go get a gallon or whatever size you can find and use it straight. It does a pretty good job on the grease, maybe not as good as some commercial spray engine cleaners, but they normally caution against getting it on the paint as it will discolor it or worse, remove it.... If it doesn't get it all off the first time, do it again and maybe scrub it a little with a soft brush for the really grungy stuff.... You can use this stuff to clean carpets, seats, tires, nearly anything on a car if it is mixed properly..and it doesn't stink too bad...

Nope, sorry. 260's had E-88 heads with square exhaust ports, your N-47 is the "odd ball" of the bunch with round ports... http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html

The only thing you really need to cover is the air filters or the end of the air cleaner (depending on which type of filter set-up you have) and then you can wash all you want. When you are done washing, take the distributor cap off and spray the inside with a little WD-40, take each plug wire loose(one at a time) and spray it in the top of the cap, and if you have to, do the same at the plugs. No matter how you try to keep it out of the distributor cap, it always seems to get wet, unless you take all the wires off that is, but then you better remember how they go back in order...:cross-eye

If no luck at MSA, try Charlie Osborne at http://www.datsunzparts.com/electrical.html

Dents don't look like they are that bad that they couldn't be repaired, but, dpending on how they repair them, you might end up having to have the bumpers re-chromed. Which, in the long run will be cheaper than buying new ones.' As for the ends pieces, I haven't seen them listed for a while... Try e-mailing Andy Russell at z@datsundude.com He might know of a supplier, or check with Troy at Too Intense our advertiser on the main page.... Oops, forgot one other supplier, Charlie may have everything you need... http://www.datsunzparts.com/bumper.htm

You should be able to get the motor itself out without taking the dash out, however, you might find it tough to get to some of the mouting bolts or screws....If you are a contortionist, you can do a lot under the dash without removing it.....

MSA has them, or you could try Paul Spruell Alfa, I can try to find a few more suppliers but the prices aren't going to be cheap for 15x7's. You might figure about 200 each...:cross-eye If you use the search function for Panasports, you might find a fe more threads with links to suppliers. Stock wheels on the 280 should be 14x6.

MSA may have them, but be prepared.... they are expensive....:disappoin

That's a question that can't be answered without knowing what kind of racing you are going to do. Is it something you are planning on doing a coil-over? If not, and you are just going to use stiffer stock type springs, you probably won't need a bar that big. Actually, you should choose your bars after choosing the spring, strut cartridge set-up...Of course, if there is a way of making this bar adjustable, then you could tune it to whatever you handling needs are after you have built the rest of the suspension and tested it to see what your handling is like....

Hmmm, one of the cars I'd like to have if I ever won the Lotto is an older 77-79 Aston Vantage Volante... But I'd rather have a real one...... Does look pretty cool though, they actually go together pretty well.....

Sounds like he'll need someone like the buyer of the 146 dollar wiper blades to come look at it before he gets his asking price then....:stupid: :devious:

I haven't seen one that was bigger than 1 7/8(280) but that doesn't mean 2 inch weren't made... I'd say a 2 inch bar would only be good for a truly serious race car, one with all the suspension mods such as coil overs with very stiff springs and probably racing on slicks. On a street car with stock or slightly higher than stock spring rates, a bar that large is going to defeat the purpose. If you are going to drive the car at all on the street, I wouldn't use it as it is going to effectively increase your "kidney pounding" to an unacceptable level. You will stiffen the suspension even more with a bar that large, of course, body roll will be a thing of the past....:cross-eye You will need to increase the bar size incrementally with the up rating of your springs, ie. stock springs will work with stock bars or slightly larger, stiffer springs with slightly larger to another step larger bar....Bars like you describe would be best left to a GT car with slicks and a very stiff chassis as well as a very stiff suspension. Think of it this way, if your springs allow the suspension to compress easily, the sway bar then is put into the equation and will effectively act as a torsion bar to try to counter act the suspension movement, if enough stress is put on the bar trying to overcome soft springs, you could end up ripping the bar mounts right out of the frame rail.

ZmeFly, doesn't that yellew engine block look kinda familiar? Like on Ebay about 3 weeks or so ago? :sick:

More like a Kenworth.....

Take a note of where the sound control is located... and point the exhaust away from it with a 45 or 90 degree tip if worse comes to worse..... Another thing you could always try is using one of the bullet style race mufflers in place of the resonator in the tunnel and another at the back.

Err, 3 inch? :cross-eye

Looks like someone backed into something and rolled the lip of the rear panel... Or someone parked too close and hit the tail pipe and pushed it into the panel. Not too hard to fix if it isn't creased too bad or been compromised by rust, and it is right at the seam between the quarter and rear tail panel so you would need to check the weld after straightening. As far as the Optima battery? It's kinda the old saying: "shut the barn door after the horses got out". FWIW, my 71 had similar rust under the battery tray, after removing the tray, I removed all the rust and had a pitted surface that I cleaned thoroughly and have now got it covered with primer until I can get some POR-15 on it. Mine did have some streaks down to the frame rail as well, but luckily it was only on the surface as after stripping the paint the metal was clean. The frame rail was very tight against the inner fender luckily, not the usual gaps between the spot welds, so hopefully, it won't cause any trouble later. I seriously doubt if you will ever, ever find a Z that hasn't had(or have)at least minor surface rust under the tray.

The little bit of rust shown is not too critical. It shouldn't be there, but that little bit would be an easy fix.... It's when the rust is all the way back to where the inner fender panel meets the firewall that gets critical. The pic just shows some surface rust that wasn't taken care of properly and is bubbling under the paint. It could easily be taken care of by pulling the tray, sanding, and coating it with POR-15 and then a top coat to match the car. As far as the other car goes, the shifters on all of the early cars with the A model transmission are sloppy compared to the later B models, the only way to fix it is with the solid bushings, but it will never shift quite as slick as the "B". Seats are an easy fix as is the suspension if it just needs bushings and/or strut cartridges. With the price, I would expect better, but the chassis' being in good to very good condition and the fact that you won't break the bank replacing parts that are missing is one thing to consider as well. As far as telling you which one to go for, that's gonna be all up to you and how much you are willing to spend. Take a little time to look the cars over and make a list of the pro's and con's of each car. Then sit back and compare them. Make a list of what eash car will need until it would suit you and see which one would require less investment after the purchase price and go with that.

Looks like a Supra Turbo motor to me, but that looks to be a handmade header for sure....

I'd go with a 2 1/2 inch pipe with a muffler, preferrably a turbo muffler such a Carl mentioned. The twice pipes were always by far the loudest cars on the tracks as many racers were using them when I was racing in the early 90's. Just to give you an idea, my 280 had one of MSA's 2 1/2 inch pipes with no muffler, and I was usually in the 102-105 range depending on the weather. I did have a slightly turned down tip on mine though, not an 90 degree elbow, but a 45 angle cut tip with it pointed straight down. FWIW, before I sold the car, I replaced the rusted out tip with a Dynomax 2 1/2 inch straight thru race muffler (bullet style) and it was nearly as quiet as the car was with the Turbo muffler that came with the system. I think the muffler was about 40 bucks from Summit Racing. Don't forget, you can always use a angled tip or even a 90 degree bend at the tip to aim it at the track.... or away from sound control to quiet it down if it is too loud when you get to the track, just go get a cheap one at the auto parts store and take it with you wherever you go just in case......

Or just provide the Automotive links to sites that don't require registration, making the box smaller..... Maybe downsizing the number of News blocks on the Main Page to just one or two instead of three. I like the Gallery block, keeps me up to date on the newest photos without having to visit the gallery unless I see something interesting.... With the random image link in the Gallery block now, do we really need the extra random image block as well?

Or you could have someone follow you in a "Nascar style" draft 3 inches off you rear bumper and you would have no vacuum at all on the rear of your car, well, maybe that wouldn't be the best idea huh?