2ManyZs

This has got to be one of the best examples of American over-indulgence........:cross-eye http://www.travelsupreme.com/products/me2.asp

All it needs is a bumper sticker that says, "So, you want to provoke me into a fit of road rage?"ROFL

Just think how easy it would be to get through a traffic jam....:cheeky: Or how you wouldn't have to worry about a little snow on the road....

Sorry guys, but I'm one of those people that think F1 stinks! Racing is intended to be how well an man AND a machine can work in concert to cover the distance in the quickest time. Not how well a man can adapt to all the electronic driver aids that are so prevelent in F1 now. It has nothing to do with driver skills and "cojones", it's all a matter of which team has the resources to configure the electronic aids into the package that can beat the other teams. There are so many driver aids in these cars, it is almost a matter of which man can work the buttons on the steering wheels without crashing than it is about who can actually drive. Give me the racing back in the 70's or 80's and even the very early 90's in F1 to see a really good show. Now that was racing the way it was intended, todays racing bears little if any resemblance to "real racing". Take the cars and take all the electronic aids out of them such as in NASCAR, but leave the rest of the car alone and then we will see some really good racing where the driver has more than a 20% input into how the car goes around the track. Of course, without the elctronics, those cars probably wouldn't make it 10 laps without spewing their guts out all over the track. I for one want to see more than one or two cars that have an actual chance of winning, passing and racing for the lead, and no more of this winning by 50 seconds over the second place car, or pulling over to let your "No.1" driver pass you for the win. There's only one type of racing that puts me to sleep faster than watching NASCAR go around in circles and that's and F1 race... I'll stick to the Trans Am, Speed World Challenge, ALMS, European Touring Car, and others for my racing "fix"... Unless they want to run those cars on the one track in the US that really deserves and is worthy of an F1 race, Road America. Or take NASCAR or CART to one of the F1 tracks in Europe. Now that might be interesting... Just my $.02 worth....

Bet you would get lots of attention from the police, and it's not even painted "arrest me red"! Wonder if you could use the HOV lanes on the way to work... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2405633868&category=6737

Great song, but a lousy way to treat a car..... It says an easy fixer-upper, doesn't look so easy to me and it's too expensive to use as a donor for a 240..:devious: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2405151851&category=31864

You could bead blast it with either glass bead, or the poly beads, or even walnut shells for that matter. Best way I have found to remove gaskets is with one of the gasket removers from 3M or ScotchBrite on a pad that you can use on a Dremel tool or cut off tool. Just be careful with some of them, as they are a bit abrasive and you can end up scratching the surface too much. You could always use the stiff putty knife and finish it up with a Scotch-Brite pad by hand if you don't have the Dremel tool or a die grinder.

13070-E3000 is the L-24, L-26 timing chain set according to the Microfiche.... If I'm reading it right...:cross-eye

They are the rear stub axle bearings. 43210-E4100 is the inner bearing 43215-E4100 is the outer bearing The seal part number is 43232-E4100 if you need it....

Lowering the diff ratio is probably the only way to increase your performance with your budget of $500. You'll hurt your top end unless you change to a 280 or 280ZX 5 speed, but that will be out of your budget for the time being.....

The mustache bar bushings won't do anything as far as handling, but they will help get rid of any clunking you hear when shifting or thumping when on a rough road. The mustache bars main function is as a differential mount. They are the easiest to change. The spindle pin bushing will affect the handling, however, a word of warning, don't be surprised if you have to take the strut assembly to a machine shop to have the pin pressed out. I have done two sets recently, one set came out with only a hammer and a small drift, the other set I had to cut with a sawzall to separate the strut assembly from the control arm and they will need to be pressed out..:disappoin BTW, if you do the mustache bar bushings, be sure to check your front diff mount at the same time, you might as well take the diff out completely and change that at the same time, that way you will not have one part that needs replacing in the near future after doing all the work on the mustache bar. If you do a search on here, you will find numerous posts regarding the spindle pins and what a PITA they are, so it's your decision......:cross-eye

The inside bushings are fairly easy once you get the whole assembly off and on a workbench.... The hard ones are the outer spindle pins bushings as the spindle pin is usually a PITA to get out, sometimes nearly impossible. The inside ones are not nearly as difficult, although if you don't have a couple tools to make the job easier, you might want to have someone else go through the aggravation. I use a 15/16 or 1 inch metal hole saw to cut the rubber in the bushings so you can get the inside sleeve out. Then I use an air chisel with a V notch bit to slowly roll the edge of the bushing and then use the small edge to cut down one side of the outer bushing. With a little practice it usually will not take long if you take your time and try not to cut a groove in the control arm. You can then use a round file to clean everything up and put the hew bushing in. If you use urethane bushings, be sure to grease them thoroughly, or they will squeak later and drive you nuts. I'm doing a set right now, and the bushings are taking less time than it takes to sandblast the control arms when I'm done. But then, I've done a few sets....

If you have all the necessary tools and parts and are somewhat mechanically inclined in case a problem pops up, you should be able to do it in a weekend with a little help from a friend. FI is going to take a bit longer as you will need to do some wiring to hook all the wires up to the ECM for power to it, I'd go with a ZX motor with carbs, in which case it would be a simple matter of pulling one motor, and bolting another in its place and transferring things like the intake and exhaust.

Have you tried a different coil? Since you say yours is 5 years old, it is possible it is the coil overheating and that is causing the problem.

27MM which is also equal to 1 1/16. That's what the L-24's are and I'm fairly positive all the L series are the same. Torque is 116-130ft/lbs

As long as they are the early 260 taillights they should fit with no problem, the later ones with the reverse light separate like the 280's won't without some modifications...

Which rear taillight assembly are you asking about?

If you just want steel braided hoses try www.jegs.com www.summitracing.com www.www.pegasusautoracing.com Victoria British has the stock steel lines in their catalog if you need them...

The fuel systems are all basically the same. The only 240 that had an electric fuel pump at the tank were the 73's due to a recall by the factory to cure the vapor lock problems they had. You can put an electric pump on any of the 240's and do away with the mechanical pump if you wish. The way you have described it, you may have a blockage of the pickup in the tank due to rust and corrosion in the tank. Have you tried using compressed air through the hard line before the filter to see if it clears? You might be furhter ahead to run the tank down low on fuel, and then pull the drain plug and see if you get a lot of crud out of the bottom of the tank, if so, then you might better consider having the tank dropped and cleaned/re-sealed to prevent any further contamination of the fuel system.

Let's wait and see if he will post a pic of the interior, the console should tell some of the "rest of the story"..... Judging by the looks of the car, it's nearly into "parts only" category with all the pats that are missing and the brushed on primer on the body. Wonder how bad the rust is.....

The control arm is probably moving a bit in its bushing making the alignment seem off. You should bolt the T/C rod to the control arm first, then mount the T/C rod to the frame mount. You should have gotten a U shaped gauge with the bushing kit, this is to preload the bushings while tightening the T/C rod nut. This will put your control arm into proper alignment. As far as the ball joint goes, I've had a couple that needed just a little filing on the control arm holes to fit the bolts, not a big deal. Guess there is a bit of a disparity between manufacturers, even though there really shouldn't be.

Actually I think you might find the stock bolts are zinc plated. The only way to make sure they never rust is to go stainless....

Might the cars location have something to do with it?:devious:

I haven't done one, but have seen many sunroofs welded shut on race cars. Some look like there was never one there, others look like someone used a spatula and dabbed JB Weld on it to seal it.. If you want it done right, you'd have to pay the price for someone who knows what they are doing....

I've used a couple of them, and they are fairly simple. Are you using one with a header or the stock manifold? You might need to do a little welding if you are going to use a header at the headpipe/header flange connection. But that is not that difficult. One thing I would suggest is using the stainless steel band clamps if you have the car lowered to give you as much clearance as possible. They are expensive when compared to the "old style" U-bolt clamps, but they do not crimp the pipes and that in itself will make it so much easier if you ever have to remove the exhaust without tearing it up to change a muffler etc...Plus, they offer the benefit of being so thin and won't hang up on a lift or whatever. I've had a 2 1/2 inch pipe clamp catch an alignment rack ramp and yank the whole exhaust loose...:stupid: Take your time and don't fully tighten the clamps until you have the entire exhaust system where you want it. Wait until you have the exhaust exactly where you want it before you tighten the clamps for the final time, just leave them a bit loose so you can move exhaust by twisting the pipes until you get a good fit.