2ManyZs

I know I've seen them on a late model car, maybe a Toyota Supra TT?

Hmm, that is odd then... wonder if they did that for a reason?

All the early Z's had vinyl seats form the factory unless the seat covers were a dealer installed item. You won't gain much by changing the cam unelss you plan on a few other changes to be able to compliment the cam, such as ignition upgrades, better exhaust, and depending on the cam selected, rear differential gearing or transmission, not to mention making sure your carbs are in top notch condition. One upgrade is usually dependant on what else you are willing to do in order to get the most out of the upgrades....

Yes, a 280 radiator will work, but the bottom of the core is going to hang below the radiator support as the core is taller on a 280 radiator. Plus you'll have to do a little work to get the mounting right on the radiator support as the bolts won't line up...

I think it looks very expensive.... Notice it only controls fuel? You'll need to do some serious ignition upgrades to use the extra fuel, and getting them to work together won't be easy.... Is it going to be compatible with the Bosch FI system such as from a later 280 or are you going to have to design and build a complete fuel injection set-up to match the controller? Too complicated for me...:stupid:

MSA has 3 row radiators for 194.95 and 4 row for 244.95 If I were you I'd scratch together just a wee bit more and go for the 4 row considering the small price difference and the added capacity and piece of mind a 4 row can give... I've used the 4 rows on more than one car, I raced a 280 without a fan with a 4 row, and the only time it ever went over 190 was sitting in the pits. You might check their specials as the radiators are usually in their sale catalogs.

Here's one that looks a bit better IMO.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406266328&category=6187

It's not a bad looking car, well, I'm not a fan of yellow but I guess it's OK..... The starting bid is a bit on the high side IMO, I'd expect a car like this to top out in the $6500 or so category... No pictures of the interior, or under the hood, so you are bidding kinda blind on this one(after looking at that yellow we know why you are blind) so unless you get more pics, I'd say wait and see if it gets any bids at all. You are taking the owners word about all the added modifications, and spare parts..... There could be some hidden "issues" with the car and that is why only one pic is shown......Being from the Chicago area I would be a little leary bidding on a car that is not proven to have no rust....

Ok, now that you have our attention, could ya give us the pic?

Don't ask me why they call them that. I can't answer that question any more than I can answer the question of why Nissan Canada has them and Nissan USA doesn't.... They have been called that for as long as I can remember. All the catalogs from Nismo Parts, and all the suppliers call them "euro" so I guess they figure if they weren't offered here they must have been offered somewhere in Europe.. guess Europe could be construed as anywhere except the North American continent... I guess if they called them Fairlady or 432R bumpers no one would would know what they were since very few people ever saw a true Fairlady or 432R. These have holes for only the bumper guards and not for the rubber "rub" strips. So, really they aren't quite the same as the Fairlady or 432R bumpers as they didn't have the holes for the bumper guards correct? So that gives us 3 different types of bumpers that were available..... Sorry Michael, for now they are staying in the bubble wrap until it's time to mount them... I'll post a pic when I decide to unpack them.:cross-eye

As anyone who has tried to get one lately knows they are NLA. You can get the side pieces with no problem but up till now the center pieces were not available. I personally have tried every known supplier with no success until this past week. Charlie Osborne at Zedd Findings in Kingston, ON can get them. I just received mine by UPS this afternoon. Don't ask me why Nissan Canada has them and Nissan USA cannot get them, but if you want one, you had better get one soon before they are NLA in all of North America....:disappoin Go to Zedd Findings web-site and get yours before they are all gone. Many people have the "euro" front bumpers and have been searching for the rear to match, so if you want one, you better get one soon.... BTW, for Alan's piece of mind, we call them the "euro" bumpers here in the US because that is they way Nissan describes them in their catalogs to differentiate them from the stock replacement bumpers.... Nismo used that name to describe them, so it's not something we thought up on our own.....

I don't know of any sites or links that might be able to help you decide if this is something you would want to try to tackle without some guidance.... I guess anything is possible if you want to give it a shot, but you might end up wasting money on parts trying to find the correct pieces to make it work. I think the upper mounts should be the same, it's the way it would mount to the steering arm that might be a big problem if it won't bolt up to a 240 steering arm. Perhaps the ZX steering arm could be made to work? Of course, then you would still have to shorten the strut housing and/or reposition the spring perch to get the height correct.....

Hmm, that's what I get for "arse"uming things huh? That really makes it odd then, they went from the N-42 with a mechanical pump boss, to the N-47 and P79 without and yet the next head in use had one for some reason. Before the P-90 was used on the Turbo's they actually used the N-42 since it didn't have the exhaust liners...... Then they changed to the P-90's, and then the P-90A's..... I wonder if there is a difference in the N-47's that were used on the 280's compared to the N-47's that were used on the first generation Maximas as well?

I'm confused.... I just went and re-read the directions and the only thing I can think of is it has to be something in the black/white stripe and white/black stripe connection as it is the only connection that goes to a switched power supply...

Maybe.....Maybe not.... The 280 and 280ZX strut housings are longer and have a longer spring which would make the front end sit way too high. However, you could always either lower the stock spring perch and use 240 springs, or just cut the whole thing and install coil-overs. Not sure if the strut housing will bolt up to the stock 240 steering arm though...If they do bolt up to the steering arm, all you would need to do is cut them and install coilovers or mount the spring perch lower.... Don't really know on that one as most people just change the brakes and not the whole strut housing, so that might indicate the fact that it won't work....They do put the strut housings on the 510's in the front, so it should be possible with a little modifications.... Good idea though....

She's never seen a pheasant, but she is hell on paws when it comes to robins.... Grey squirrels are her favorite thing to chase though...but they get under the fence before she gets a chance to "play".... It's finally gotten into the high 40's and sunny here and now the cabin fever has turned to spring fever.....:classic:

In and out would be most likely the stub axle bearings....:disappoin The only other thing that could cause this would be a broken stub axle...that's even worse then the bearings..... Stub axles aren't to difficult once you get the retaining nut off the inside flange, and that is what gives most people the biggest headache. They take a large socket that most people don't usually have and they are "staked" on the sides as a means to lock them on the stub axle as well. You might also need a slide hammer to pull the stub axle once you get the retaining nut off, at least, that's the easiest way to pull it.... Bearings and the seal should be readily available so the parts aren't the problem... it's getting it apart.. MSA, VB, Courtesy Nissan and a few other should be able to com eup with the parts pretty easily... not sure about current prices though.. And you will need a torque wrench when you put the retaining nut back on as that is what gives you the proper preload on the stub axle bearings.

Guess so Jeremiah, BTW, you feed them thar coon dogs this mornin for ya went to work?

Your gonna need to check that out thoroughly. It could be the bearing in the stub axle, it could the the whole rear control arm that is moving due to bad bushings. Pull the tire and wheel and find out for sure where the problem is. I'm not sure what you mean by back and forth but you'll need to find out if it is in the control arm, or if it is in the hub itself. Hopefully it is the bushing in the control arm which will be fairly easy to replace, the stub axle bearings are a bit harder.

Yup, RTV silicon will work fine. Just run a small bead along the corner where the main cap meets the block. You should also put a small amount in the grooves of the main cap where the side seals install. You should put a small amount of oil on the side seals themselves so that they will slide into the groove easier.

Gary, Don't get discouraged, at least you know where all the parts are..... Mine has been in pieces for 16 months now, and until spring finally gets here, it going to have to sit and wait for the weather to warm up before I can start painting and putting it back together. If you take as long as kmack, then we'll start worrying...