2ManyZs

Phooey.... I looked in the one pic and you can see that they used the bolt on center caps, which are gonna be darn hard to find...:stupid: Not impossible, just a lot harder to find than the snap in, or the rear mounted caps....:disappoin

Well, I've posted this before but you should always bleed the master cylinder before you bleed the wheel cylinders. When you add fluid to the master, if there is any trapped air when you add the fluid, it may not get all the way to the wheel cylinders when you bleed the cylinders. Therefore, you have introduced air into the system while you are trying to do the opposite, and have defeated your own purpose. If, after a proper bleeding, you still have to pump the brake pedal, I would suspect you have a bad master cylinder, barring any leaks in the system such as a wheel cylinder or brake line.

For anyone that has a Z and a Roadster, this should get you closer to having a true "Dream Garage" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404637417&category=6188

Hmm, let's see. FJ20,or VG30, lowered, widers wheels.... Talk about a sleeper....:devious: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404273239&category=6188

If a set of used slots is what you want, take a look at this auction. The price is only up to 150 for the set, and they are 14x6 so the tires you have should fit fine... Only thing is it will take a little "elbow grease" to polish them up, but that is fairly easy with the right polish.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2403880260&category=33748

Back in the late 70's I would imagine it would have been quite expensive to do. With today's billet aluminum heads and cams, belt driven cams, and the wide array of pistons available it's kinda sad no one will give it another shot at a conversion kit. It could probably done quite easily and fairly priced. Especially when you see how many millions of dollars that must going into R&D and manufacturing of all the aftermarket pieces for the 350Z already....not to mention all the other cars on the market.

What I would really like to see is someone that would just make the head to put on an L-28 block, now that would sell..... Shame no one has ever just done the top end of that engine in the aftermarket.:disappoin You would think with all the millions of dollars spent developing parts for the aftermarket, someone, somewhere would have had it done by now...

Burt, forget American Racing if you want new wheels. They used to have a lot of choices of styles in 14 inch and 4 lug. The last time I looked, they only had one style of wheel that was available in 4 lug.:disappoin I personally like the Panasports the best, they are a vintage look on a Z, they don't have a lot of hard places to clean like some do. The Revolutions are OK, but I believe they have such a thick hub flange that longer studs are almost a necessity. I believe Royce has a set on his car, you might try PM'ing him to see if he had any trouble with the wheel studs being a bit too short.

Arghhhh.... I can't find the papers I had from GC about measurement for the perch.... I guess I could get out in the garage in the next day or so and measure the ones on the 240... You gonna make me shovel more snow to get to the door of the garage? If no one else can give it to you, I'll go measure it Friday and get back to you, tomorrow is gonna be a busy one...

I think the 75-76's are the same, but the 77-78 are a bit different in the latch. But, I don't think they are so dissimilar that you couldn't put the 76 latch on the 77 door. I believe the strikers are the difference, but don't know if they can be swapped for sure, never tried it...

Admit it, you just like the color of the engine block...:sick: :cross-eye

If you are trying to put the strut back on the steering arm with the top of the strut still mounted you are going to find it to be a difficult job to say the least. You shouldn't have to separate the tie rod from the steering arm as the control arm should go low enough. You might need an extra pair of hands to do this, especially with the tire still on, but unbolting the top of the strut and taking it out of the strut tower pocket is a much easier way to do it. Bolt the strut housing to the steering arm and then using your foot, push the entire assembly down until the top of the strut will go back in the upper mount is the easier way to do it. Be careful not to pull the brake line apart, you might have to unhook the brake line to get enough slack to push the control arm down far enough that the strut mount insulator will clear the lip around the upper mounting surface. You could also at the same time use one of my little tricks, go to the parts store and buy 3 stainless steel 2 1/2 inch hose clamps, the heavy duty ones and loop them around 3 or 4 coils of the spring and tighten them with a ratchet and they will compress the spring to give you a bit more slack in the suspension. You might be able to get enough compression on the spring that you can bolt the strut housing onto the steering arm without taking the top on the strut loose. Unfortunately it will be a lot easier if you can get the tire off, you should try to do that somehow to make the job a lot easier....

I think it may be Mperdue after spending too much time at the all-you-can-eat burrito buffet...

Don't know how my name got "dragged" into this....:devious: But maybe he should check those control arm bushings while he's at it, every Z owner needs to learn how to take those spindle pins out...

Here's the link Enrique was referring to, the ignition upgrade is half way down the page. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

Of course, the type of induction system is the biggest indicator of how much polishing you can do to get the most out of the engine. MPI fuel injection such as the later 280's would benefit greatly from a fully polished intake and exhaust since the fuel is injected into the intake port itself. The more air velocity into the ports would really wake up an L-28 with FI. Carbs are a different story, a lot depends on the runner length, diameters and such. It all depends on the induction system on the vehicle in question.

T-5's were the only manual transmission offered in the Turbos with the F-54 block..... The first years production in 82 I believe were only auto's since they didn't think the 5 speeds would hold up to the torque until they adapted the T-5's.

If it will run if you hold the key in a certain position in the switch, I'd have to say it's in the switch itself. It is probably not making contact in the run position. If you can get your hands on a used switch just to try, it's worth a shot before you spend the money on a new switch if for some reason it isn't the switch. Especially since a new switch is $105....

He's thinking of the 280 turn signals, perhaps he's using the MSA front bumper cover which you can't use the stock turn signals with? Yup, just looked at his gallery and he has to convert to the 280 turn signals with the bumper cover.... It's been a while since I saw anoyone advertise the clear lenses for the later cars, hopefully Troy can help him find a pair...

Try Too Intense Restorations. Troy may know of a supplier, as he is one of the last to have the clear lenses.... other than him, I don't know where you would look. He may know where you could look if he has no way of getting them. BTW, remember to tell him you are a member here. Just so he knows his advertising is helping his business as well as our club.

I've seen a couple with a vinyl roof. I think most people realized it just didn't fit the car and was nothing more than a fad that ate up cars in the long run. They truly are nothing more than a moisture trap....:tapemouth

The 82 should have a F-54 block with either a P-79 or P-90 head. The 280Z should be an N-47 on an L-28 block. Nothing wrong with either one, but the F-54 block is a bit stronger due to the siamesed cylinders. $400 for just an engine would be on the high side unless it's complete with the intake and exhaust intact. For 400 you should also try to get as much of the FI wiring and ECM if you can. You should be able to find an F-54 in a wrecking yard or pick and pull for about the same or possibly less. Look here for more info on heads. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html

Been a while since I saw a Z with a vinyl roof. Too bad it hadn't stayed that way a lot longer.....:sick: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404131359&category=6187

Hmm, looks like a Pekingese to me... either way, if it's a $^!# Too or a Peke, you don't want it.:devious: Yappy lap dog..... I was out shoveling snow yesterday and a beautiful Siberian Husky came over the snow pile and then didn't want to leave. Layed down in front of the kitchen door and cried to come in... Don't think my dog would have understood....Finally told it to go home and it trotted back down the street. Kinda ironic, during a snowstorm to see a Husky out running loose...

If it were a spun bearing it would be a loud knocking. Sounds to me like a valve/piston/wrist pin problem or the cam is wiped out.....:disappoin